Last Day in Taipei
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Taipei by night and day
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Kaoshung
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Taiwan Day 3
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Taipei, Take Two
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Taipei Day 1
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Tchau, Rio
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random recife
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Mama Samba: Artisanal Products from Brazil
creonice's sisal bags
Creonice is an artisan I met in Salvador ... She learned the art of working with sisal from her mom.
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Creonice sources the sisal, a natural fiber, from her father's nearby farm, and hand-dyes the material.
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More of Creonice's creations...
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Coopartes artists
These are a few of the young women learning the art & biz of making & selling crafts from recycled & natural materials
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Another Coopartesan at work...
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Notebooks from recycled paper, with a mandala design from natural fibers sewn into the cover
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Lamps from recycled paper, Bomfim church ribbons, acai beads...
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one of salvador's many poptop artists - many artisans work with soda & beer tabs but this woman had something special..
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change purses, keychains, etc made from crochet & recycled pop-tops
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haute eco-crochet - i love this one!
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rocker poptop belts in silver/green and silver/red
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poptop glam - i didn't buy this one but can order it if there is interest...
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another cute design, again only on special order
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magda, queen of coopertane, another women's coop working with recycled paper.
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some of coopertane's picture frames (the group is affiliated with levantamos - see levantamos.org)
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elegant notebooks with recycled paper - note the berimbeau (instrument in capoeira) design on the left
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recycled-paper photo album
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this gorgeous handbag was painstakingly made by the women in one of the quilombo communities levantamos works with
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the detail work on this bag is amazing... as is the story of the quilombos (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quilombo)
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Elba's Fuxico (a traditional Brazilian sewing technique)
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these adorable bags are perfect for a young girl
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...or a grown girl with the chutzpah to go out with some color on her arm
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fuxico headbands in a rainbow of colors
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leida and her sister make super-cute leather handbags for sale in salvador... sorry guys, girl not included!
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so leather ain't politically correct but with all the meat brazilians eat, something has to be done with the hide!
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leida's flower-child bag
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another salvador artisan - her lifesize doll actually sucks her thumb, walks (almost) by herself, and makes googly eyes
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The artists and their respective muses... Pedro and Patricia
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Pedro and his wife Patricia are wizards of wire (this is the Orixa collection)
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Orixas (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orisha) are the dieties celebrated in the Afro-Brazilian religion Condomble
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Yemanja, one of the many water goddesses in condomble... I attended a beautiful festival in her honor during carnaval
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Pablo's whimsical fork and spoon people (everybody represented here from berimbeau players to judges to dads to surfers
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Pablo and Patricia immigrated from Uruaguay in search of the usual - a better life...
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..they couldn't get "regular" work for lack of papers, so Pedro began making these wire sculptures to sell on the street
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the insect collection!
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more fluttery-creepy-crawlies... these all double as incense holders as well
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one of Caruauru's youngest artisans... an artist, salesman, student, all-around charmer... quite the renaissance boy!
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Caruauru is one of the most famous ceramic-making towns in Pernambouco - see www.culturadecaruaru.pe.gov.br
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Caruaru is also known for its forro (a kind of Brazilian country music, a two-step dance)...
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A few goodies from Caruaru... see the forro band in front, and to the right, a dentist going to town on a tooth!
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i stumbled upon these artisans at a weekly organic fair on recife's federal u campus...
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all-natural fibers and crochet detail on these 50s style skirts
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hand-painted and crocheted towels
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hand-embroidered tea towels
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the ladies' jewelry... the women also work with a famous Recife naturopath to make natural remedies & beauty products
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the remainder of these products were acquired from artisanal fairs & stores in and around recife...
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shell bracelets
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one of many necklace designs using local seeds & beads
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elegant gold sisal earrings
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earrings from coconut shells and natural fibers
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hand-woven floor runners from cuaruru
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mix-and-match pillow-cases
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"jogos americanos" - literally translate american games - aka placemats
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mix-and-match placemats... each design unique
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crochet design tank tops
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these lacy crocheted shirts are so sexy!
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me and luciana, commercial assistant to the local fair trade organization etica (www.etica.com.br)
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velcro bag (perfect as a diaper bag, though not intended as such!) made by one of the many coops etica works with
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another adorable girlie bag from 1 of etica's partner coops. etica is affiliated with world vision internt'l: wvi.org
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Little Red Riding Hood (Chapezinho Vermelho) puppet set with a sabor brasileiro
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three little pigs finger puppet set
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fuxico christmas ornaments to brighten up your tree
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"solidarity" good-luck dolls
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these bouquinhas slip on to your cell phone
salvador leftovers
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more recife
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recife
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adeus salvador!
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More from Salvador
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Salvador
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Lavagem de Bomfim
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RIO
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mendavi.jpg 2008-01-05
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mewater.jpg 2008-01-05
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Graduation '07
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Dog Days of August
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NYC Summer '07
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Lake Norman, NC
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IMG_2216.JPG
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Mayweather DC visit
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Philadelphia
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Siamese twins, luckily separated at birth, in front of the Mutter Museum, housing a wacky collection of medical oddities
scouts.jpg
Philly hoodlums
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The girlz in front of the Museum of Art
spider.jpg
More posing
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In front of the Museum of Art, where Rocky did his famous stair run. I look more like Rocky than this ill-cast knockoff.
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Which way to victory?
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Pre-race pep
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Me and my stepdad, Don, who walked me to the start and helped me thru the weekend in so many ways!
startcorral.JPG
The 8-minute-mile crowd (they line you up according to expected pace - Kenyans up front, ordinary folks in the back)
startline.JPG
It took three minutes to actually cross the starting line, so crowded was the race "field"
finishline.JPG
Managed a finish line sprint just under four hours... not the time I'd hope for but still respectable
warmingup.JPG
The chill sets in quick once you quit running
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My friend Ana Paula, who came to watch me run Richmond, stopped in on her way home from NY (here with my lil sis)
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Met up with my Tanzanian boxing promoter friend, just in town for the week, and one of his boxers, now based in Philly
Zanzibar
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Smile, you're on Zanzibar, the mystical spice island just off Dar's shore...
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Old health clinic in Stone Town, Zanzibar's heart & soul. Incredible mix of Arab, Indian & African culture & architectur
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Stonetown is known for its elaborately carved doors
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Knock, knock, who's there? Princess Salma!
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The island is fast changing, however; much work to preserve its culture and architecture
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Big tree. Need I say more?
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Fishermen on Stone Town's shore
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View from the "House of Wonders," a wonderful museum of Swahili history and culture
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Outside the museum
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A hand-stitched (no nails or glue used) dhow (sailing vessel) inside the museum
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This was a khanga from my birth year... Khangas are colorful pieces of cloth bearing proverbs worn by Zanzibari women
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This Khanga commemorates Tz's former president's ride
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Translations of some Khanga proverbs (often worn by women to give her husband a certain not-so-subtle message)
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Graffiti on the walls of Stone Town's old fort tells a different story
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Women dressed in black purdah in the shadows of the old fort
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Afternoon nap outside the fort
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Amphitheatre used for concerts and events, particularly the island's huge annual music and film festival in July
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While this street is wide, many of Stone Town's alleys are too narrow for much more than a bicycle
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Nice to be above it all for a moment... the island was loaded with tourists with hustlers and "flycatchers" in tow
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Vendors getting ready for the night seafood market at Forodhoni Gardens
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Boys cooling off in the Indian Ocean just before sunset
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Cats are everywhere in Stone Town, presumably living off the plentiful scraps of fish bones
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Dramatic Zanzibari sky and sealine
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Most of the guest houses feature these paintd and carved four-poster beds called Semadari
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A Taarab orchestra (Arab-inspired musical style) at Mercury's, a waterfront bar enshrining Zanzibar-born Freddie Mercury
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From the back row, I could spit on the pilot of our tiny plane back to Dar (but I didn't)
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Spectacular bird's eye view of the Indian Ocean and coral reefs
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Back to the mainland again, Dar's shore
Kilimanjaro
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Don't say we didn't warn you... Sign at the Marangu gate
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Marangu is the most popular route up Kili as it is more established and well-trod, and features a system of huts
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The first day's walk is as gorgeous as it is easy, traipsing through a lush green rainforest
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I skipped ahead of the group (me, two young British students and a German father-daughter team) for some sweet solitude
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Moss-covered trees and vines lace the rainforest
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First night's camp is near this giant crater, overgrown with soft tufts of grass
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Me and Hassan, one of the fearless porters (they prefer to be called "mgunu", Swahili for the toughest)
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Nice to rest after the day's hike
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Me & the mgunu at Mandara, the 1st camp. As I ended up walking w/ them most the way, I came to know and adore these guys
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View of above the forest at Mandara
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I helped carry the gear to slow me down.. the first days' walking were easy (all the more contrast for the final ascent)
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The young, bright and fun-loving Msifiri, the asst. guide... we walked together singing Marley and Mary J to his radio
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Protea, one of the gorgeous flowers brightening the trail on the first two days
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Last floral view of the flowers before we start moving above the clouds and most signs of life
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View just above Horombo, the 2nd days' camp, crowded with people both on their way up and down the mountain
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Gangs of crows scavenge for food at Horombo
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Breakfast with the group, a rare meal when the dining hut wasn't elbow to elbow with fellow hikers
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Flowers at Horombo
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Spent two nights at Horombo to acclimatize to the altitude... day trip to "Zebra Rock" and beyond
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Mawenzi Peak faces off Kili... it is not as high but a far more dangerous (and technical) ascent
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Now you see it, now you don't
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I hiked with Simon, the head guide, to one of the only huts en route to Mawenzi peak
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Coming ever closer to the mountain, now a days' hike to the base
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Porters en route to Kibo, our final camp before the ascent
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Made it up to Kibo in record time, the first to arrive that day, only to start feeling rather ill from the altitude
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Posing with the porters, who zipped effortlessly up the trail with our mountains of gear and food
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As many times as these guys have gone up the mountain, they love to take pics as if it was their first
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Now entering the danger zone: at this altitude people started to vomit & worse (saw some folks going down on stretchers)
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After the most exhausting night shuffling up the mountain you can possibly imagine, almost too tired to care
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Brightnening up after a moment's rest with Bruno, who practically pulled me up the last few paces
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Made it just in time for sunrise
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Where the snow meets the clouds
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Kili's stunning ice cap, though it is unfortunately receding due to global warming
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At Uhuru, the peak of the peak - reunited here with the rest of the group, who had started a few hours earlier
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Posing with Bruno, who made the trip without gloves or water, laughing at the sleeping bag I used for a scarf
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"Tutakilisha Kilimanjaro": Representin' Kili with our guides...
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After a 7 to 12 hour hike up & down the peak, you must still go another several miles back to Horombo that am
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Gorgeous view of the Usambara mts. over Horombo
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Sixth day of the trip, final group poses the morning before we truck back to the gate
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As much as I yearned for clean clothes, a warm bed and a hot shower, I was so very sad for this great journey to end
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Back in Moshi, one final view of "Killer Manjaro"
Tarangire safaru
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Elephant skull marking the entrance to Tarangire National Park, one on Tz's northern "safari circuit"
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Tarangire is lesser visited as it doesn't have as much big game as Serengeti or Ngorogoro Crater, but we still saw lots
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Zebras are as commonplace here as deer are in many US national parks
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While Darwin's "survival of the fittest" ultimately rules the landscape, many animals still mix and mingle peacefully
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Wildebeest under a giant baobab tree
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Giraffe ("twiga" in Kiswahili) is Tanzania's national emblem
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Elephant family on the move
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Elephants pose under a baobab
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Ostrich, the world's tallest bird
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All the animalscongregate at thee river for a drink; here, zebras, ostriches and mongeese
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Lions lazing camouflaged in the grass... We watched them forever waiting for a zebra to fall into their trap
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Colorful "superb starlings" hang out in the picnic area waiting for crumbs
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Rainbow-feathered birdies nestled in tree hollows
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View from one of Tarangire's upscale "safari lodges"
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The parklands (both on the Tz and Kenyan sides) are the native home of the semi-nomadic, cattle-herding Masaai tribe
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Mt. Meru, Kili's less-popular stepsister, can be climbed from Arusha, Tz's northern capital
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Mt. Meru, like Kili, is an extinct volcano
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An expat artist apparently created the cartoonish "Tingatinga" painting style but now is much copied by urban artisans
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Dar Part II
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Whether a "frindly" niehgborhood insurance co or barber shop, you can't have a biz without a painted sign...
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The big jobs go to the more professional sign artists
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Large TNC-owned brands also peddle their products with paint, sometimes on small claptrap houses like these
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Beauty salons and barber shops are every few paces in the capital
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Black American pop culture has left an indelible mark on Tanzania's urban landscape
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At easy, the African way
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Phone card salesman... people don't have phone plans but buy minutes as their budget allows
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In the cola wars, Pepsi somehow managed to beat out Coke in Tanzania
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Daladala owners (local shared minibuses) pimp out their rides with stickers and slogans like "Catch Me If You Can"
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Who is the Man from Nam? One of Tanzania's great mysteries
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Hustle and bustle in Kariakoo Market, the largest covered market in the capital
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Such a graceful way to carry even the most awkward of loads
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My friend John, his daughter & cuz... John crowned me Queen Nyamizi (he is a tribal chief in Tabora)
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Dance floor at one of Dar's nightclubs, dancing to ne of Tz's premier Rhumba groups, Twanga Pepeta
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Dance floor from above
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A modern artist mixed textiles and paint to create portraits of African domestic life
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Street fruit vendors often carry and peddle their oranges and coconuts from vintage Chinese bikes
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Brightly painted home of a woman who grew henna trees for painting hands in a fishing village an hour's journey from Dar
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Shy girls outside the village pose for a portrait
So Highlands in Tz
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En route to the South, passing through Mikume National Park where you can see all sorts of animals from the highway
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Roadside zebra
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More zebras
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Elephants hiding in the grass
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Grazing gazelles
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More gazelles
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Gazelles on the move
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Gazelle crossing
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Baboons
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The animals seem to have no fear of the road
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"Chipsi" (french fry) omelet laced with bad pink ketchup, peas and spinache
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The only time I got to see a cheetah
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This bizarre image is entitled literally "speak again"
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One of Mufindi Tea Co's estates, Luponde
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Another view of Luponde
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Nursery school funded with fair trade money
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Kids looking in the school window
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Classroom funded with fair trade
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A hostel for a private orphanage funded from fair trade that ran over budget & never got finished
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School receiving various forms of support from the Kibena Tea Co. fair trade fund; by far the nicest school we visited
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School assembly
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World map painted on the side of a school building (note the "Roki" mountains in the US)
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Secondary (high) school student in the small town of Ndjombe riding home
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Kids will always find a way to personalize the uniform look (ie, Bob Marley bookbag)
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This man interrupted my jog to drag me to where a haji (Mecca pilgrim) had cleared a field in honor of the pilgrimage
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Faces of poverty
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Cement grave on the trail up one of the mountains looming over Njombe
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Lisa with a cross marking the mountain trail
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Walking with some schoolkids to the top and back
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Mountain goats on the trail
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Beautiful views of the town en route
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A mid-trail soccer field
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Gotta get those shoes shined for church
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Painted sign promoting the virtues of milk ("maziwa")
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Everyone has to pull their own weight in the village
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School bell
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Cacao pods
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"Bridge of God" formed a few million years ago when a now-extinct volcano erupted
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Falls outside of Tukuyu
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Crater lake
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Ceremony for "Nane Nane" (Nine Nine), a national holiday for farmers
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The dashing emcee
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"Welcome to Njombe"
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Girls decked out for Nane Nane
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Fancy feet
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Lisa, April, and some members of TechnoServe staff
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Business is booming at the Halfway House, a roadside motel halfway back to the capital
Teatime in Tanzania
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Morning mountain mist above the guest house where we stayed in the East Ursambaras
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Mist over the tea fields
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Row of tea bushes
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Tea at dawn at EUTCO, fair trade certified plantation
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More EUTCO tea
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Community hall for EUTCO workers - with satellite TV!
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Tea being brought in for processing
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Emptying the bags of freshly picked tea
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Green leaf being processed
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Machine for "cut tear curl," ne of two main tea processing methods
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Green leaf ready for the next station
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Tea fermenting in bins for 60 minutes before further processing
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Different grades of "made" tea
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Tasting different batches of tea
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Tasting room
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Firewood to keep the factory boilers going
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Young tea plants in the nursery
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Steep mountain road with tea and African flame trees in the distance
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Kids going off to school
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Workers bringing in the day's picking
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Pluckers stop for an interview and group photo
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Pluckers at the day's end
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This elder had a few things to say about working conditions
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One of the many tricked-out buses on the windy mountain roads
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View above Herkulu Estate, a small organic fair trade tea plantation
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Corn mill purchased with money from the fair trade premium
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Why am I the only one smiling here? Chatting with some pluckers after the day's work...
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The estate manager Daya's house, built by the British in the 50s when the estate was established. With students
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Bouquet from Daya's beautiful flower garden
Tanzania (Dar)
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love the fashionable emirates stewardess uniforms
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airport mosque in dubai
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welcome to dar es salaam
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banabanas, the standard local transport
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these mosquitoes are doomed!
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boy selling durian and other exotic fruits in the asian quarter of dar
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public art
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making sugar cane juice
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a shy boy digs into some chips
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cake seller
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cake seller's colleague
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family gazes onto the indian ocean
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chillin by the port & fish market
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cleaning ship
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boats off the indian's shore
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setting sail
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leaning tower of pail
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women waiting for catches of the day
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cleaning octopus in the fish market
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packing them into the ferry
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a hard living repairing and selling flipflops
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traveling wedding brass band
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safari, beer of tanzanian champions
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butterfly found by the roadside
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typical tanzanian lunch: ugali (the pounded cassava ball seen on L, R and back plates), beans, fish, and veggies
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seaweed on the shore
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rocky cliffs off coco beach
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purty flowers
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a jogger at dawn
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indian ocean sunrise
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palm pilot?
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post-exercise stretches in the sand
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here comes the sun!
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open air training at dusk with welterweight champ luzanga
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uppaka! (uppercut!)
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can you train my biceps to look like that?
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Christian cemetary down the road to our new villa
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Mango tree in the cemetery
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Erobic Massage Tyboo (aerobics, massage & tae-bo)
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drink safely - drink tea!
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old coffee cans made into oil lamps at a fried chicken stand
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4th of July
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Pictures from April
Monkey-fiti
Place de la Bastille
This is the cradle of the French Revolution, though nothing remains of the Bastille prison here now
"New Books at Reduced Prices!"
Apartment building
Architects would and still do "sign" their buildings...
"Paris Loves Equality"
Facade of the Hotel de la Ville, the home of the mayor (though for years and years Paris didn't have a mayor)
Dancer's grave - Pere-la Chaise
Epithet: "what becomes the dream when the dream is done"
Edith Piaf's grave
Edith Piaf is one of many dead celebs buried in Pere La-Chaise cemetery, incl Chopin, Gertrude Stein, & Jim Morrison
Metro entrance
Rose window - Notre Dame
Nothing but the Grand Canyon will make you feel more insignificant than visiting the vast cathedral of Notre Dame
Notre Dame votives
"Road of the Cat Who Fishes"
Street signs are fixed on the buildings... so many cute street names like la rue des mauvais garcons (bad boys street)
Dinner in a typical brasserie
Bistro, bar or brasserie? I still didn't get the nuances... A traditional French meal: lots of fatty meat and wine!
Lovers outside Sacre Coeur
View from Montmartre
Still life with Buddha Kitty
Self-portrait
Painting - Museum of Erotica
Steep streets of Montmartre
Moulin Rouge
Most famous landmark in the Pigalle, Paris' red-light district
Naughty art - Museum of Erotica
Big Brother is Watching
Drive-thru art at the Louvre
Haute couture of Paris
Quiche au Michel
A final dinner with my wonderful hosts, Michel & Claire
Gare du Nord
Main train station in Paris
La boxe francaise
Found rings to train in both Paris & Amsterdam. I sparred with this trainer's daughter, who was two-time national champ.
Pictures from April
La Pipe in de pijp
Neighborhood cafe in de Pjip district. Dutch love kitsch!
Spokespeople
As a cyclist, I felt so at home here! I also biked Paris, where part of the sidewalks are devoted to two-wheel traffic.
Dog day winter
European life isn't complete w/o a wee dog. This one was cold & shivering; her Turkish dad claimed she was belly dancing
Streetcorner sculpture
Building facades, both old and new, in Amsterdam are incredible; sculptures, designs & more built into their exteriors.
Indonesian "rice table"
Corine, my very gracious hostess (found her on couchsurfing.com - check it out!), took me out for an Indonesian feast
Church tower
Clocktowers & weather vanes everywhere - time & weather being important to Dutch as traders & seafarers?
"Cradle of champions"
Trained at this boxing gym, known for taking ruffians off the streets & transforming them... much like my own DC ring
En garde
The trainer, an Algerian Robert DeNiro, got a kick out of training me & gave me a nice parting memento of the gym
Spraybear
Amazing graffiti all over the city, real urban works of art - this wasn't the most impressive but liked the whimsy of it
Along the canals
The canals wind around the city in picturesque but confusing circles... I spent a morning running them in loops
Outside looking in
You can't see me well here, but I have on about ten layers... it was Arctic cold & not good sightseeing weather
Smoke shop
Coffeeshop is code for pot-smoking establishments... smoke so thick it wafts out into the streets
Poster children
Million dollar boy
Comic strip of a boxer's story painted onto the locker room walls at the gym I visited
Million dollar boy cont'd
Million dollar boy cont'd
First & last frames show him jumping rope - Buddha say B4 nirvana, chop wood & fetch water, after nirvana, chop wood...
Brown cafe
Cozy, smoky feel in a brown cafe. Many of these unpretentious local bars have been around for decades if not centuries.
Sixties Beat Club
Came here last nite in town - bobs & turtlenecks, 60s muzak on the tables, russ meyers n batman & robin on the screen
The Spinshots
The band came out in red turbans & black coats... the lead singer a sultry Eritrian that sung like a black Blondie
Grand cafe in the train station
After paying 100 euro to replace my lost train ticket, had cappucino in the station's so-called grand cafe. The end. :)
taipei, take two
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Taiwan Day 3
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Taiwan Day 3
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Kaohsung
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Kaohsung
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Taipei by night and day
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Last day in Taipei
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P1014186.JPG 2008-08-18
Random Memorial Weekend Shots
47b8db04b3127cce98549c23ca0500000067108AbsWLJs3btV.jpg
47b8db04b3127cce98549c23ca0500000067108AbsWLJs3btV.jpg 2008-05-26
47b8db04b3127cce98549c49ca6f00000067108AbsWLJs3btV.jpg
47b8db04b3127cce98549c49ca6f00000067108AbsWLJs3btV.jpg 2008-05-26
47b8db04b3127cce98549c4a4b5c00000067108AbsWLJs3btV.jpg
47b8db04b3127cce98549c4a4b5c00000067108AbsWLJs3btV.jpg 2008-05-26
47b8db04b3127cce98549c37ca1100000067108AbsWLJs3btV.jpg
47b8db04b3127cce98549c37ca1100000067108AbsWLJs3btV.jpg 2008-05-26
47b8db04b3127cce98549c27ca0100000067108AbsWLJs3btV.jpg
47b8db04b3127cce98549c27ca0100000067108AbsWLJs3btV.jpg 2008-05-26
P1013477.JPG
P1013477.JPG 2008-05-26
P1013479.JPG
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P1013483.JPG
P1013483.JPG 2008-05-26
P1013480.JPG
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P1013484.JPG
P1013484.JPG 2008-05-26
P1013486.JPG
P1013486.JPG 2008-05-26
P1013487.JPG
P1013487.JPG 2008-05-26