Engine Removal
Engine to Transmission Bolts
OK, the factory says drop the engine and transmission with the subframe, but you have to have a lift and a heavy-duty cart to do it.
I did a modified version, but in retrospect, I probably could have pulled the mounts out entirely, then pulled the engine and transmission together
Others have been trying to get just the engine out from above, but get hung up on the bolt from the passengers side through the transmission into the engine.
I hope this diagram helps - look at the next page too - I have pics of unbolting the engine from the transmission. Those bolts look slightly different from this picture.
transmission bolts.JPG 2009-12-09
Engine and Transmission Out as One Unit from Above
1) Follow the manual for disconnecting everything, including the steering gear intermediate shaft.
2) Drain the transmission oil.
3) Make sure you have plenty of hands - I had two adult men and two strong teenage boys.
4) I do not recommend doing this at home in your garage or driveway (do as I say not as I do).
5) Good jack and jackstands are an imperative.
6) I highly recommend an engine hoist balancer/ weight distributor (you can see it on the top of the motor).
7) You will have to remove the engine subframe to get the motor out top.
8) Brake master cylinder does NOT have to come out but it is tight.
IMG_5252.jpg 2009-02-22
Engine / Transmission Subframe with Steering Gear Attached
Doing this at home required some improvisation. Originally I thought I would use an engine bar to lower the powertrain (still attached to the subframe) to the garage floor. So I disconnected everything as the manual said - including the ball joints, tie rod ends, and steering column intermediate shaft.
Then I had the bright idea to cherry pick it - which would have worked but the studs on the trans mount were too long. I guess I could have pulled the trans mount off, but I went ahead and dropped the subframe so there would be no question of clearance.
You see that the power steering pump is still attached to the gear. To separate the power steering hoses from the engine wiring harness requires disconnecting the rear O2 sensor (the one under the passenger compartment) and feeding that wire toward the front.
Disconnecting the ball joints required a long pry bar. The tie rod ends were persuaded by careful application of a air hammer and pointed tip. Emphasis on careful.
IMG_5251.jpg 2009-02-22
Engine and Drivetrain Assembly
My little trailer was a handy cart. Here you can see how compact the transmission is.
Seeing the axle outlet reminds me - to get the driver's side axle out, use just a pry bar. A long one. And make sure you brace it so it doesn't gouge tye trans case. But all it takes is a good hard push.
On the passenger's side it takes both a pry and a few moderate whacks on the cv joint with a deadblow hammer. I removed the bracket for the wiring harness to make that happen.
If neither of these tricks work to get the axles out, run to the 'Zone and get a slide hammer and the CV joint puller attachment. Easy sleazy.
IMG_5256.jpg 2009-02-22
Transmission Good (I hope). Motor Bad.
Yup. Going on 3 years later, still plugging away.
IMG_5268.jpg 2009-02-22
Big Hole
As they say on MythBusters, "Well, there's ur problem!"
IMG_5250[1].jpg 2009-02-22
Steering Intermediate Shaft
The cover was a real bear to push up to gain access to the pinch bolt. Looking forward to trying to line it all back up when it goes back together.
11/2011 note - Actually, not bad, and have had to do it since a couple of times to replace steering gears.
IMG_5265.jpg 2009-02-22
AC Compressor
Always a good idea to wire it up out of the way to take stress off the hose joints.
IMG_5264.jpg 2009-02-22
Mo Better Motor
But can you see the problem?
IMG_5255.jpg 2009-02-22
Another Clue Dead Center
Uh-oh
IMG_5253.jpg 2009-02-22
Umm, Houston, We Have a Problem
This motor has secondary air injection. Nothing a couple of block-off plates won't fix.
IMG_5254.jpg 2009-02-22
Motor Side Engine to Transmission Bolt
There is a bolt that is a bear to see when installed that holds the engine to the transaxle. Unlike the other bolts, this one goes in from the engine side. Watch these series of pix as we follow the camera around to the front of the engine.
IMG_5257.jpg 2009-02-22
Engine to Transmission Bolt
Nice view of the sensors at the front of the engine. These need to be disconnected - somewhat by feel when it is installed. The nasty oil leak this motor had didn't help.
We are going to be looking from the front of the engine to the rear, under the exhaust manifold.
IMG_5258.jpg 2009-02-22
Engine to Transmission Bolt
Patience
IMG_5269.jpg 2009-02-22
Engine to Transmission Bolt
There it is - just right of center of the photo, below (to the right in the photo) of the manifold. You can see 3 1/2 sides of the hex head - one of the points is at the 12:00 o'clock position.
I didn't know where this bolt was, and couldn't see it with the motor in the car, but know that I know where it is, I imagine it could be reached with a long extension and a swivel socket.
Maybe you can pull the motor alone.
IMG_5270.jpg 2009-02-22
Engine to Transmission Bolt
IMG_5270 Bolt from Engine Side.JPG 2009-02-22
Engine to Transmission Bolt
IMG_5261.jpg 2009-02-22
Engine to Transmission Bolt
IMG_5259.jpg 2009-02-22