Northern California (Jan. 2012)

Confusing modern art at Sacramento International Airport
DSC_0052.JPG 2012-01-05

Rob during the Humvee tour at Chalk Hill vineyards
Sonoma, CA - 1/5/12

Chalk Hill vineyards
Sonoma, CA - 1/5/12

One day, all of this would be his
Sonoma, CA - 1/5/12

Moustache Baked Goods
Very cute bakery in Healdsburg, owned by a 23-year-old guy.

The (in)famous bacon cupcake
Healdsburg, CA - 1/5/12

Moustache Cupcakes
Healdsburg, CA - 1/5/12

Lily Cupcakes
Healdsburg, CA - 1/5/12

Monkey & banana cupcakes
Healdsburg, CA - 1/5/12

More Sonoma vineyards around sunset
Sonoma, CA - 1/5/12

Hop Kiln, hops producer-turned-winery
Sonoma, CA - 1/5/12

Me at Hop Kiln
Sonoma, CA - 1/5/12

Some of Hop Kiln
Sonoma, CA - 1/5/12

Rob and me in the Hop Kiln tasting room
Sonoma, CA - 1/5/12

Rob and me in the Hop Kiln tasting room
Sonoma, CA - 1/5/12

Bodega Bay
1/6/12

Rob and his trusty steed
1/6/12

Rock formations in the water
1/6/12

Beautiful rocky coast near Bodega Bay
1/6/12

Church where "The Crow" was filmed
1/6/12

View from Mt. Tam
1/6/12

Rob in hiking mode
1/6/12

View from hotel room in San Francisco
1/6/12

High school and Turkey friends in SF!
1/6/12

Lauren, Jane, Chris
1/6/12

Wars memorial
Sacramento, 1/8/12

The California State Capitol, Rob's former office
Sacramento, 1/8/12

California State Capital dome
1/8/12

Rob with his bear friend at the Capitol
1/8/12

In my best California/Berkeley form
1/8/12
Holidays 2011

Christmas cheer in Istanbul
DSC_0001.JPG 2011-12-12

Setting up for the Christmas party
Christmas party at our apartment, 12/10/11

Part of the spread
Xmas party 12/10/11

More goodies
Xmas party 12/10/11

Friends at the party
Xmas party 12/10/11

"Commonwealth Dance Troupe"
Xmas party 12/10/11

"Commonwealth Dance Troupe"
Xmas party 12/10/11

Istanbul International Chamber Choir concert
12/13/11, Notre Dame de Sion French school (I am at far right)

IICC concert after party
12/13/11

Friends at the IICC concert
12/13/11 (Patrick, me, Rob, Joan, Emily, Jen)

Oysters @ Fontaine
12/22/11, Me, Chada and Jennie

Smith, me, John W, John H
12/23/11

Cason's engagement party
12/23/11

Another shot of the girls
Cason's engagement party, 12/23/11

Christmas Eve with the Kennedy
Katherine, Mrs. Kennedy, William

Katherine and me
12/24/11

Mary Genevieve and me
12/24/11

Christmas decorations at Cross Creek
Christmas 2011

Posing with the tree
12/25/11

Pose 2
12/25/11
Morocco

Casablanca train station
DSC_0140.JPG 2011-10-21

Waiting on the Marrakech train
DSC_0142.JPG 2011-10-21

Marrakech train station
DSC_0143.JPG 2011-10-22

Dinner @ Dar Zellij
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View from the top of our hotel,
a beautifully restored riad. Note sheep, bottom center.

Activity in the alley near the hotel
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Unusually quiet moment in the street near our hotel
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People wearing djellaba,
the traditional hooded robe worn by Moroccan men and women

Shoe store in the medina
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Colorful leather slippers
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More slippers
DSC_0219.JPG 2011-10-22

If the shoe fits...
DSC_0221.JPG 2011-10-22

Two roads diverged in a crowded medina
DSC_0226.JPG 2011-10-22

Medina passerby
DSC_0230.JPG 2011-10-22

Cats napping on antique doors
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A cool painting
DSC_0239.JPG 2011-10-22

Rob in the medina
DSC_0247.JPG 2011-10-22

You never know what's going to come flying around the corner
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Mosque entrance
Unfortunately in Morocco non-Muslims cannot enter mosques, so we never got to see the interior of one.

Lanterns for sale
DSC_0256.JPG 2011-10-22

Street in the medina
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Walls of the medina
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Beautiful tile work
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Entryway to a madrasa (Koranic school)
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In the traditional pharmacy (i.e. the tourist trap)
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Dubious concoctions at the pharmacy
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Walking through a lane of lamp makers
DSC_0307.JPG 2011-10-22

Mirrors
DSC_0308.JPG 2011-10-22

Nuts and cookies salesman
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Some of the colorful crowd at Djemaa el fna,
old Marrakech's chaotic main square

A water seller
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People watching at Djemaa el fna
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Orange juice sellers on Djemaa el fna, the main square of Marrakech
DSC_0326.JPG 2011-10-22

Food stand
Djemaa el fna, Marrakech

Rob handled it really well when
a guy came up and put a snake around his neck.

One of many animal interactions in Djemaa el fna
DSC_0337.JPG 2011-10-22

Rob and snake
DSC_0338.JPG 2011-10-22

More of the crowd
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Grilled meat stands
DSC_0348.JPG 2011-10-22

A monkey trainer
DSC_0350.JPG 2011-10-22

One of a series of awkward faces
It was not initially my decision to hold a monkey.

Getting over my fear of the monkey
DSC_0358.JPG 2011-10-22

Starting to like this furry thing
DSC_0360.JPG 2011-10-22

He was actually pretty cute!
DSC_0365.JPG 2011-10-22

But then he got up on my shoulders
DSC_0367.JPG 2011-10-22

No room for monkey hands and sunglasses on my head
DSC_0369.JPG 2011-10-22

Me and monkey
DSC_0371.JPG 2011-10-22

Rob stoically handles all wild animals near his face
DSC_0372.JPG 2011-10-22

The monkey found some good stuff in Rob's hair
DSC_0376.JPG 2011-10-22

Kind of a fierce little fellow!
DSC_0379.JPG 2011-10-22

:)
DSC_0380.JPG 2011-10-22

Bye bye monkey
DSC_0381.JPG 2011-10-22

Catching our breath at Cafe de France
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Looking out over Djemaa el fna
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Djemaa el fna and Koutoubia Mosque
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Djemaa el fna and the medina
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Minaret of Koutoubia Mosque
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Back out to the square for pre-dinner sightseeing
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Snake charmers
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Horn player
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Mildly terrifying to be near these snakes
DSC_0438.JPG 2011-10-22

Dusk on Djemaa el fna
DSC_0463.JPG 2011-10-22
Land of the Vampires

The Transylvanian town of Rasnov
(note Hollywood sign on the hill)

Beautiful foliage in the woods around Rasnov
DSC_0012.JPG 2011-11-07

Rasnov fortress
This dates to the 13th century and sits atop a hill in the town of Rasnov, located in the Transylvania region of Romania

Rasnov fortress up close
DSC_0020.JPG 2011-11-07

View from fortress
Rasnov

Entering the fortress
Rasnov

Me, Emily, Joan
Rasnov

Emily, Joan, me
Rasnov

Covered walkway
Rasnov

Emily and Joan
Rasnov

Love at first sight
Rasnov

Joan and her new boyfriend
Rasnov

"Dracula's Castle"
a.k.a. Bran Castle, dating to the 15th century

Walking into Bran Castle
Bran

My kind of living room
Bran

Turret inside Bran castle
Bran

The three of us on the castle tour
Bran

Me freezing in an outdoor walkway
Bran

Me in Bran Castle
Bran

Another view from the courtyard
Bran

Bran Castle from below
Bran

The secret entrance for victims to be?
Bran

Bran from a distance
DSC_0198.JPG 2011-11-07

One of the many
Brasov

Teddy
The hostel puppy in Brasov

Brasov train station
DSC_0212.JPG 2011-11-08

Train to Sighisoara
DSC_0224.JPG 2011-11-08

Good times on the train,
which was surprisingly nice

Horse and carriage
Sighisoara

Orthodox Cathedral
Sighisoara

Crossing the river towards the Sighisoara citadel
Sighisoara

A man contemplates Stanta Treime church
Sighisoara

Looking up at the citadel
Sighisoara

Clock tower, built in 1280
Sighisoara

Houses in the citadel
Sighisoara

At a cafe for lunch
Sighisoara

Erin, Lauren, Melissa
Koc Univ. masters students in Joan's program

Square in the citadel
Sighisoara

Clock tower and stag head house
Sighisoara

Closer up on the 17th century stag house
Sighisoara

Lane of colorful houses
Sighisoara

One of Sighisoara's many defense towers
DSC_0305.JPG 2011-11-08

Walking back down from the citadel
Sighisoara

Old Town Hall, built 1420
Brasov

Pedestrian street in central Brasov
Brasov is the largest city in Transylvania, and most tourists use it as a base for exploring the region

Brasov
DSC_0403.JPG 2011-11-09

Kids playing in fountain, Piata Stafalui
Brasov

Another look at Brasov
DSC_0371.JPG 2011-11-09

Brasov citadel above main boulevard
DSC_0385.JPG 2011-11-09

The Black Church
Finished in 1477, it gained its name from a 17th century fire which 'blackened' the walls inside. Don't miss Brasov's Hollywood sign at right.

Street in Lipscani
Bucharest's beautifully restored pedestrian district, which is full of bars and restaurants

The bar at Care cu Bere
A lively traditional Romanian restaurant in the Lipscani district

A delicious dish called "mamaliga"
Polenta with eggs, cheese and sour cream

Food: 1. Amanda: 0.
Due to portion sizes and the heavy food, by the time I started my main course I could barely go on.

Good times at Bucharest
It was actually pretty neat--these are all very old real houses that were trucked in from the countryside to recreate a village in Bucharest.

So much fun!!
An outdoor museum is exactly where you want to be when it's 35 degrees and raining.

Emily feeds the chickens
Bucharest

I make a pretty good villager
Bucharest

A pretty traditional church
Bucharest

Looking good, ladies.
Bucharest
Umbria Trip

Our accommodations in Citta di Castello
DSC_1007.JPG 2011-07-31

Amazing castle, this way
DSC_0869.JPG 2011-07-30

Headed into Polgeto Castle for the 80's party
DSC_0790.JPG 2011-07-29

Inside the castle
DSC_0792.JPG 2011-07-29

Abby and Chris
DSC_0793.JPG 2011-07-29

Rob and me
DSC_0795.JPG 2011-07-29

Let's get a closeup on that one
DSC_0795-1.jpg 2011-07-29

Rob and Berfu
DSC_0796.JPG 2011-07-29

Some nice costumes
DSC_0797.JPG 2011-07-29

Ollie and me
DSC_0798.JPG 2011-07-29

Karine and me
DSC_0799.JPG 2011-07-29

Lanterns at the party
DSC_0803.JPG 2011-07-29

Rob and Rob
DSC_0807.JPG 2011-07-29

Nesli and me
DSC_0808.JPG 2011-07-29

Our gracious, mustachio'd host
DSC_0809.JPG 2011-07-29

The crowd at the 80's party
DSC_0812.JPG 2011-07-29

Agnes and Heloise
DSC_0814.JPG 2011-07-29

Wine glasses display
DSC_0816.JPG 2011-07-29

Rob as Adam Ant
DSC_0831.JPG 2011-07-30

Kicking off the live karaoke
DSC_0832.JPG 2011-07-30

A strong start with "Sweet Home Alabama"
DSC_0838.JPG 2011-07-30

Ollie, Henry, Liz's brother
DSC_0839.JPG 2011-07-30

Henry and Ollie
DSC_0848.JPG 2011-07-30

Joe, Steven, Rob
DSC_0850.JPG 2011-07-30

Superheroes and Lina
DSC_0852.JPG 2011-07-30

Taking a break
DSC_0853.JPG 2011-07-30

Paulius, looking pretty cool
DSC_0854.JPG 2011-07-30

Heloise taking a dip at the hotel
DSC_0859.JPG 2011-07-30

Paulius and Lina
DSC_0860.JPG 2011-07-30

Yes, he is wearing a silver sequined hat and turquoise sunglasses
DSC_0861.JPG 2011-07-30

Paulius and Rob
Walking back into the castle for Saturday lunch and entertainment

Polgeto from below
They apparently produce olive oil with this orchard

Our lovely lunch
Note the man under the tent with a little ice cream cart attached to his vintage bicycle, serving amazing flavors with fresh fruit like vanilla-cherry and caramel-fig...they thought of everything!

The pool-side crowd
DSC_0880.JPG 2011-07-30

OBG guys hanging out
DSC_0881.JPG 2011-07-30

Abby double-fisting, Lina looking lovely
DSC_0882.JPG 2011-07-30

Rob and me by the pool
DSC_0883.JPG 2011-07-30

Rob and me below the castle
DSC_0887.JPG 2011-07-30

Abby and Chris by the tennis courts
DSC_0890.JPG 2011-07-30

How to use a catapult in 3 easy steps
DSC_0892.JPG 2011-07-30

2
DSC_0895.JPG 2011-07-30

3
DSC_0896.JPG 2011-07-30

Pretty much an ideal afternoon
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Rob playing tennis
DSC_0899.JPG 2011-07-30

Another look at Polgeto
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View from one of the castle terraces
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Inside the castle
The place was the size of a village

Another view inside the castle
DSC_0924.JPG 2011-07-30

Surrounding countryside
DSC_0925.JPG 2011-07-30

A bocce court with a view
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Rob's turn
DSC_0937.JPG 2011-07-30

Rob preferred the overhand technique
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Abby up to bat
DSC_0953.JPG 2011-07-30

Chris taking a toss
DSC_0956.JPG 2011-07-30

Debate over the results
You would be surprised how competitive people get over a game which involves rolling balls 10-20 ft (after a few glasses of prosecco)

Uh oh-- baby on the course!
At left, seated in the white shirt, was our host Andrew, and standing in the blue dress was our hostess Liz, along with their 1-year-old daughter Georgina.

Taking Georgie for a walk
DSC_0964.JPG 2011-07-30

Team "The Pressure"
DSC_0969.JPG 2011-07-30

Ramy making a go
DSC_0970.JPG 2011-07-30

I myself came to prefer the underhanded roll
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Georgie!
DSC_0979.JPG 2011-07-30

Pool in the evening
DSC_1252.JPG 2011-08-02

Joe in one of the scarier masks of the masquerade
Unfortunately due to camera issues, I don't have any other photos from the masked party.

Beautiful setup for the masquerade dinner
DSC_0985.JPG 2011-07-30

Nicolas and Karine
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Walking down to the pond on Sunday
DSC_1019-1.jpg 2011-07-31

The setting of our unforgettable Sunday lunch
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Rob and Rob
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The spread
DSC_1032.JPG 2011-07-31

OBG friends
Clockwise from top left: Elyse, Karine, Nicolas, Ollie, Joe

Cute
DSC_1035.JPG 2011-07-31

Polgeto, as seen from the pond path
DSC_1048.JPG 2011-07-31

Again from below
DSC_1057.JPG 2011-07-31

The second castle of our trip, Castello di Monterone
A castle-turned-hotel very close to Perugia

Castello di Monterone
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The troll who guards the gate
DSC_1167.JPG 2011-08-01

View over the pool towards Perugia
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Looking over Perugia and valley below
We took a day trip to the city, famous, among other things, for having been the place where the American college student Amanda Knox is imprisoned for allegedly murdering her roommate

Piazza d'Repubblica
Perugia

Central Perugia
DSC_1070.JPG 2011-08-01

Some buildings at funny angles
Perugia

Woman walking her dog on a side street
Perugia

Cute restaurant sign
Perugia

Pretty homes
Perugia

Piazza Novembre and the National Gallery of Umbria
Perugia

Corso Vannucci and outdoor cafes
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Stop. Taking. So. Many. Photos.
Rob got a little impatient with my pace.

Varieties of pig meat...we were in heaven.
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A Harry Potter-esque alley
Perugia

Doorway gargoyle detail
Perugia

Small street with arches
Perugia

Assisi for the day
DSC_1187-1.jpg 2011-08-02

The car and chauffer
DSC_1189.JPG 2011-08-02

Piazza Chiesa Nuova
Assisi

Piazza del Comune
Assisi

The main drag of Assisi
On the left is the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo; on the right is a Roman temple-turned-church called Chiesa di S. Maria (the original temple was called the Temple of Minerva)

Altar of the temple/church
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Interior of temple/church
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Assisi street life
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Delicious-looking bakery offerings
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Face-sized merengues...now that's what I'm talking about
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Via S. Francesco
Palazzo Vallemani at right

Asymmetrical windows on Via S. Francesco
DSC_1222.JPG 2011-08-02

Basilica di San Francesco
Founding location of the Franciscan order and one of the holiest locations in Catholocism. There are two churches on the site; the lower one dates from 1230 and the upper one from 1253.

Basilica di San Francesco
Assisi

Rob and me
Assisi
Van, Akdamar Island and Ishak Pasha Palace

Unintentionally funny--
Emily and I couldn't decide what this dinosaur was supposed to be, until we realized it was the Van Lake monster, the town of Gevas' claim to fame due to its location right on the lake's shore. Note the kids running away at right.

Emily on the ferry out to Akdamar Island
We were at Lake Van, Turkey's largest lake

The route out to Akdamar Island
One of several islands in the middle of beautiful, stark Lake Van, Akdamar boasts a lovely 10th century Armenian church and is one of the region's major tourist destinations

Revelers on the Akdamar boat
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The crowd of tourists headed out to Akdamar
DSC_0367.JPG 2011-07-23

A look back at land,
and at Lake Van's stunning landscape

The story of the island goes like this:
According to Armenian legend, an Armenian princess named Tamar lived on the island and was in love with a commoner. This boy would swim from the mainland to the island each night, guided by a light she lit for him. Her father learned of the boy's visits. One night, as she waited for her lover to arrive, he smashed her light, leaving the boy in the middle of the lake without a guide to indicate which direction to swim. The water was frigid, and as he died, he sighed, "Ah...Tamar..."

The short climb up to Akdamar Church, a.k.a. Cathedral of the Holy Cross
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Southern face of the cathedral
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Cathedral of the Holy Cross
Built between 915-921 AD, this church was twice the seat of the Armenian patriarch. It has been threatened with demolition by the Turkish government several times, but thankfully due to conservation efforts seems to be on safe ground these days.

The stonework is in incredibly good condition
and portrays many of the most well-known stories in the Bible

At bottom left, Jonah and the whale
(you can see Jonah falling out of the boat and getting swallowed up)

Looks like at left is Abraham's sacrifice of Isaac
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David and Goliath
DSC_0412-1.jpg 2011-07-23

Crosses carved into the walls
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North wall of the cathedral
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Adam and Eve
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More human figures and lions
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Northwest face of the cathedral
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A khatchkar
Most historic Armenian churches feature these, which are ornately carved stones decorated with crosses

Another khatchkar
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Armenian inscription over the entrance
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Entrance hall to the cathedral
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Cathedral of the Holy Cross altar
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Cathedral dome
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Frescoes
DSC_0481.JPG 2011-07-23

The weird tourist crowd
I was on the same page as the Iranian tourist in shiny pink--who did these Russians think they were, hiking around in stilettos with scrunchies the size of small children?

Some local Kurdish women
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Emily on Akdamar Island
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Me in front of the cathedral
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Cathedral and mountains beyond
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Path on Akdamar Island
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Our boats for the return to Gevas
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Emily and me
On the boat back from Akdamar Island to Gevas

Back to the mainland
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A last look at the Cathedral of the Holy Cross
DSC_0549.JPG 2011-07-23

Goodbye Akdamar
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Back on shore, trying to get it together for the family photo
Abayas are a tough business in the Van wind

Still can't quite do it
DSC_0574.JPG 2011-07-23

There we go.
Time for that grainy yet heart-warming family photo on the cell phone

It was like being in Jurassic Park
Just had to show the monster one last time; even though he is handless he's very fierce

Van harbor at sunset
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BB gun target balloons and windsurfer
Van is a funny place.

Closer up on Van Castle, plus paddle boaters
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Out for a night of Van home cookin
Emily dives in with the soup

We'd never heard of most of the foods
But they were delicious!

Dessert time. Happy camper.
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On the road again, this time to Dogubayazit
Driving along Lake Van

A fellow passenger
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Driving into mountainous Dogubayazit
This town is perched on the Turkish border with Iran

Ishak Pasha Palace, as seen from a nearby hill
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Urartian castle nearby
The brick walls were built by the Urartu civilization in the 9th century BC; the mosque below is a later addition

Gates of Ishak Pasha Palace
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Stone work on the entrance gate
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Outer courtyard in Ishak Pasha Palace
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Passing through to the interior courtyard
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Decorative windows
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Beautiful doorway
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Closer up
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Example of stone work
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The palace's former dining area
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The dining room
Ishak Pasha Palace

Me inside the former dining room
Ishak Pasha Palace

A room with a view if there ever was one
Former harem bedroom in Ishak Pasha Palace

Peekaboo
Ishak Pasha Palace

Dome of the mosque inside the palace
Ishak Pasha Palace

The mihrab, fellow tourists
Ishak Pasha Palace

Another shot of the palace mosque
Unfortunately under heavy restoration, but I'm sure it will look great once all the scaffolding and tape are gone!

Emily and me inside Ishak Pasha Palace
DSC_0838.JPG 2011-07-24

Another look at the exterior courtyard
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The landscape facing NW towards Dogubayazit
You can see the city sprawl at middle left

Colorful rocky hills
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Ishak Pasha from below
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Walking over to the other historic complex nearby
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Simply blown away
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Ottoman mosque and Urartian walls
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Another Ottoman mosque and tomb at the site
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The walls are in incredible condition and blend so well with the surroundings
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Jagged rocks upon which the Urartian castle is built
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Ishak Pasha from above
Looking towards the nearby Iranian border

The path to access the Urartian castle from behind
Once through the little window above, you hang over a 1000-ft sheer drop while standing on a 1-ft-wide ledge. Scary in slippery flip flops!

Probably should have taken a hint from all the people running my way...
We got caught outside in a downpour shortly after this

The guys who gave us a ride down from the palace in the rain
They happened to be Mt. Ararat hiking guides who were in the area and had space in their Land Rover--good luck on our part!

Passing Mt. Ararat on the way back to Van
(yes, the one where Noah's ark is supposed to be!)

Kurdish music concert in downtown Van
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Lighters in the air
It was a very peaceful affair, but unfortunately police in riot gear had swarmed the place because it was a Kurdish cultural event
Alanya Again

Prohibited items at Sabiha Gokcen Airport
Needless to say, our group had some last-minute packing adjustments.

And we're off!
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Alanya waterfront by night
Tacky clubs, pirate ships and all.

Beautiful old town Alanya
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Red Tower
One of Alanya's main landmarks

Sarah is SO excited for a castle tour!
Riding the tourist bus up to the castle

Byzantine ruins within the Alanya castle
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European tourists at the castle
Wouldn't be Alanya without 5000 of our best Scandinavian friends

The western beach, a.k.a. "Kleopatra Beach"
As students we hung out here after school--tough life!

Alanya Ottoman old town
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Close-up of Ottoman Alanya
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Me in the castle
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Alanya peninsula
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The familiar walk down the mountain
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The villa!
This Ottoman villa was donated to Georgetown University by the late George McGhee, a former US ambassador to Turkey, and is currently used as a school for Georgetown's Alanya study abroad program.

Me in front of the villa
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One of the villa
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Walking down from the castle
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Scott bey's house!
Located in old town Alanya. Joan was staying for the summer in our former professor's vacation home, and they were kind enough to let Sarah and me stay there as well.

Inside Scott bey's lair
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Scott bey's kitchen
Complete with Ottoman fireplace and home-made bathtub liquor (note Pepsi bottle)

Down at the beach
Sarah getting some sun

Me on Kleopatra beach
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Kid enjoying the sun and surf
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Kleopatra beach
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Surfing in Alanya? Who knew.
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Back at the Red Tower Brewery,
Alanya's microbrewery.

Tanks downstairs
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Sunset view from Sky Bar on top
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Sarah and Joan
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Sarah and Joan
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Sarah, Joan and me
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Then the waiter got a little handsy with the camera
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Sarah handled the attention better than I
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Alanya harbor at night
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Sarah on the Alanya boat tour
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Pulling out of the harbor
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Arsenal and Ottoman old town
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If you think about it
the Alanya peninsula kind of resembles a sleeping duck.

Byzantine monastery out on the peninsula
Accessible only to rock climbers such as the brave Charlie Amadon

She'll never let go
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Historic Alanya
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Sarah and me on the boat tour
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Cap'n Sarah
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Back on the bus to Antalya and then flight to Istanbul
Goodbye once again, Alanya!
Dad Does Turkey / Aegean Adventure

Haghia Sophia
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Low-hanging lantern from the
Haghia Sophia's days as a mosque

Haghia Sophia dome
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Minbar and mosaic
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Upper gallery mosaic
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Dad and me inside the Blue Mosque
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Yerebatan Sarnici / Cistern
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Yerebatan Sarnici / Cistern
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Medusa in Yerebatan Sarnici
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Sirince Greek school-turned-restaurant
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Lunch in Sirince with Dad and Rob
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Dad and me
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Ottoman-era Sirince homes
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Sirince
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Sirince tourist strip
Dad has developed the Turkish man walk

Dried things for sale
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The men poring over an Ephesus map
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Formerly road from the marker to the sea, now silted in
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Ephesus amphitheater
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Ephesus library
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Tablet with Greek inscription
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Rob and me at the library
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Dad and me at the Ephesus library
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Rob made a friend
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love + ephesus
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Roman-era mosaics
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Lower agora
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Hadi, to the upper agora
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Upper agora
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Rob and me
Ephesus

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Rob, back at the amphitheater
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View from our Izmir hotel
I could get used to this!

Alsancak harbor
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Boat statue on N. Izmir coast
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Konak Pier
Former pier and loading dock converted into cute shops and restaurants.

Efes + sunset
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Tankers in the Aegean
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Rob in Alsancak harbor
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Dad in Alsancak harbor
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A sunset drink in Alsancak
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Dad by night
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Izmir clock tower
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AK Party office in Bergama, pre-election craze
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Bergama
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Funicular up to Bergama ruins
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Unwilling photo subjects
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Bergama amphitheater
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Steep amphitheater!
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Amphitheater from the bottom
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Looking over the city from the theater
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Rob, Roman statue
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Arches. Former shop/storage area.
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Just the right size
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Had enough of old rocks for one day
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Ayvalik backstreet
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Kuru fasulye (white beans dish) restaurant
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Greek basilica-turned-mosque
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Assos harbor
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Assos
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Mediterranean flowers
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Assos
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Me in Assos
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More pretty flowers
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Troy
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Inside the horse at Troy
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Canakkale by night
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Gallipoli - Anzac Cove
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The peak Anzac forces were forced to climb,
resulting in a suicide mission against the Turks

Anzac cemetery
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Strolling around one of the well-kept Anzac cemeteries
They are funded by foundations in Australia and New Zealand and are beautifully kept gardens

Anzac cemetery headstone
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Anzac cemetery headstone
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Anzac Cove
Hard to imagine such atrocities took place in such a beautiful setting

Canakkale ferry
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Dad in Anadolu Kavagi
The north-most stop on the Bosphorous ferry tour, tourists can hike up to the Genoese castle overlooking the Black Sea

Where the Bosphorous meets the Black Sea
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Dad, overlooking the Black Sea
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Me in front of Genoese castle
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Lunch @ Assk Kahve
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Rob and me @ Mikla
Our favorite bar with a view

Dad & me at Mikla
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In Ataturk's Footsteps: Thessaloniki, GR and Ohrid, MK

Onwards to Greece!
Pulling out of the enormous Istanbul bus terminal

The joys of Turkish rest stops
Brought me back to my study abroad days.

Driving through western Thrace
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House in the Kastra area
Thessaloniki, GR

Part of the former Turkish Quarter
Thessaloniki, GR

Church of Nikolaos Orfanos
Thessaloniki, GR

Nuclear graffiti
Thessaloniki, GR

Interior of Church of Agios Dimitrios (5th cent.)
Thessaloniki, GR

Prayer candles at Agios Dimitrios
Thessaloniki, GR

Ataturk's house!
It is on the grounds of the Turkish consulate in Thessaloniki.

Requisite Ataturk bust
Ataturk's house, Thessaloniki, GR

Ataturk's kitchen
For all those wondering, not original furnishings. Thessaloniki, GR

Room where Ataturk was supposedly born
Ataturk's house, Thessaloniki, GR

Ataturk's hamam-style bathroom
Ataturk's house, Thessaloniki, GR

The Rotunda
Thessaloniki, GR - Originally intended to be the mausoleum of Galerius, this became Thessaloniki's first church and was later turned into a mosque by the Ottomans. The minaret they added is at right.

Arch of Galerius
Thessaloniki, GR - Dated 303 AD, this celebrates a victory over the Persians.

Charming Modiano Market
Thessaloniki, GR

Shopping for fish
Modiano Market, Thessaloniki, GR

My answer to the lack of pig in Turkey #1:
:p

Proud butcher
Modiano Market, Thessaloniki, GR

Fish for sale
Modiano Market, Thessaloniki, GR

Aristotelous St.
Thessaloniki, GR

Plateia Aristotelous
Thessaloniki, GR

Waiting for a green light
Thessaloniki, GR

Fisherman near the port
Thessaloniki, GR

Lena's Bar
Ladadika, Thessaloniki, GR

Fishermen on the waterfront
Thessaloniki, GR

White Tower
Thessaloniki's most famous landmark, this is where Sultan Mahmud II had the remaining janissaries massacred in 1826

Dusk and Alexander the Great
Thessaloniki, GR

Happy New Years 2008...
and welcome to Macedonia

What hitchhiking looks like
En route from the Greece-Macedonia border to Bitola, MK

What it looks like when
the driver you are hitching with drives off with your bag and leaves you in the dust

Bitola bus station
Bitola, MK

Au revoir Bitola
Bitola, MK

Bitola-Ohrid bus
Standing room only

My digs in Ohrid
(Villa Lucija, front and center)

Sveti Sofija Cathedral
Ohrid, MK

Example of the town's lovely Ottoman architecture
Ohrid, MK

Narrow lane
Ohrid, MK

3 old cars
Ohrid, MK

Roman amphitheater
Ohrid, MK

More wandering through Ohrid
Ohrid, MK

Upper Gate area
Ohrid, MK

Car Samoil's Castle
Ohrid, MK

Old town Ohrid
Ohrid, MK

Northeast Ohrid old town and stunning mountain backdrop
Ohrid, MK

Interior of Sveti Kliment i Pantelejmon
Ohrid, MK

One of the omnipresent, hilariously tiny cars
Ohrid, MK

Church of Sveti Jovan at Kaneo
Ohrid, MK

Me at Sveti Jovan
Ohrid, MK

Dock on Kaneo Beach
Ohrid, MK

Popeye the Sailor Man
Kaneo Beach, Ohrid, MK

Typical cobblestone Ohrid street
Ohrid, MK

Back side of Sveti Sofija
Looking towards Lake Ohrid, Ohrid, MK

My answer to lack of pig in Turkey #2:
bacon-wrapped pork shish kebap

Sveti Kliment i Pantelejmon
Ohrid, MK

Lake Ohrid at dawn
Ohrid, MK

7 AM, Ohrid bus station
Ohrid, MK

To Skopje
Ohrid, MK

Skopje and the Vardar River
Skopje, MK

Old town
Skopje, MK

Skopje Carsija
Skopje, MK

Men drinking tea
Skopje, MK

Mustafa Pasha Mosque
Ottoman mosque in Skopje old town
In With The New (Year)

Cailin and me at Leb-i Derya
Cailin and I studied together in Alanya in 2006. She is now a master student at Sciences Po, and this was the first time we got together after graduating!

Cailin, Emily and me
At a Black Sea home food restaurant after visiting the Pera Museum

Sunset from my apartment
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Beyazit and Istanbul University
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Simit seller
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Chesnut seller at the Suleymaniye Mosque gates
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Covered ladies at the Suleymaniye
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Inside the newly restored mosque
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Street in Vefa
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Vefa Bozacisi
Operating since 1876, this place produces a traditional milk and millet-based drink called boza. Difficult to describe, but delicious.

Facade of Vefa Bozacisi
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Boza: perfect with a little cinnamon on top
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Sasha and Austin
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Pouring boza
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Ataturk
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Mmmm
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The group at Vefa Bozacisi
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Preparing the fresh boza bottles
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Aquaduct in Fatih
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Holidays 2010

Getting into the Christmas spirit
with some reindeer cookies!

Chocolate espresso cookies
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The tree
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Ornaments
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Galata on Christmas Eve
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Decor in Christ Church
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Present time
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Mince pie
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Resident elf
Not my best look.

Potential uses for my new tripod
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More tripod uses
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The
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The Christmas spread
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Rob carving up the stuffed chicken
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Ottoman Autumn

At the Oxford Business Group party
A formal event at Divan in Kurucesme; here with my friend Sean
(Sept. 4, 2010)

Sean and me
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Micha, Sean, Elyse
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Peter dancing with his daughter Heloise
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Sam and Barbara
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Rob presenting an award
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My Rob and Rob Whittigan
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I imagine the conversation went something like:
"Nice sunglasses." "Yeah? Nice name."

Fellow passengers on the ferry to Heybeliada
One of the "Prince's Islands" in the Sea of Marmara, technically a district of Istanbul
(Sept. 11, 2010)

Seagulls over the mast
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Rob and Patrick being swindled
They actually bought the citrus juicers the salesman was pitching on the boat. Has Rob used it once? Nope.

Disembarking on Heybeliada
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Horse of the islands
There are no cars allowed on the island; bikes and horse-drawn carriages are the only modes of transport

Antiques shop
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Beautiful old house
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Another interesting old wooden house
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Pretty fixer-upper
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Charming bungalow
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The Halki Palace
A historic hotel slightly past its prime but still very grand, a great place to spend some time.

View from the back of the hotel
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Having drinks in the lobby
There was a parrot behind me that made cat noises.

Where were we? Where were we going?
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Confusion reigned
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Just like men not to ask directions
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Phaeton chugging up a hill
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Pretty terrace with gourds
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Taking a breather on the way up the hill
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Monastery across the island
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Anchor detail on house
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Bizarre photo shoot
Patrick didn't know quite what he'd invited upon himself

Blown away
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Rob and me on Heybaliada
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And wrap.
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Let it be known:
This is my future summer house. You are welcome to attend my parties in 2030.

Facade of my future home.
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Rob and Patrick walking back down to the harbor
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Pulling away from Heybeliada
You can see the naval school at the edge of the water

Seagulls following the ferry
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Young ferry passengers
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Kasik Adasi, or "Spoon Island"
One of the small uninhabited Prince's Islands

A little game of I spy perhaps?
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Istanbul ferry at dusk in the Marmara
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Famous Eminonu rocking boats
On this particular day I met up with some friends for fish sandwiches and a ferry trip up the Golden Horn to the beautiful, historic and conservative neighborhood of Eyup for some sightseeing.
(Oct. 16, 2010)

Serving up balik ekmek
(fish sandwiches). Cheap and cheerful, and a nice mix of tourist and locals.

Sean, Nick and Jimmy noshing
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View of Galata
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Pulling into Eyup, at the north end of the Golden Horn
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Walking through Eyup
Eyup is a particularly important area due to its mosque, which is the 3rd holiest in Islam. There are many cemeteries in the neighborhood, and the old Ottoman headstones are interesting because you can tell the profession/status of the pers

Tree trunk enveloping old gravestone
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Covered bride at Eyup Sultan Camii (Mosque)
This mosque is considered sacred due to its being the burial grounds of Muhammad's standard bearer, Abu Ayyub (his tomb is the tiled building front and center, facing the mosque). As a result many newly married couples and recently circumci

Mosque interior
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Mosque dome
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Congregants and lights
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Nick and Sean, nonplussed
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Saturday crowds at the mosque
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Recently circumcised boy in traditional outfit
Boys are usually circumcised around the age of 6-7 and then are dressed up like little sultans and brought to Eyup or Sultanahmet and treated like princes for the day

The little sultan
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Inscription and lantern over entrance to complex
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Wedding group entering
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Another covered bride
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Taking the finicular up to the Pierre Loti Cafe
Nick, Ben, Zach, Sean

Boys at Pierre Loti Cafe
Pierre Loti was an orientalist French writer who used to live at the site of this cafe. Pre-industrialization, he had a great view.

Current view down the Golden Horn
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Part of the kulliye, or complex, around the mosque
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The old Galata Bridge in its resting place
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One of the little boats that shuttles people
back and forth across the top of the Golden Horn

Sunset on the Golden Horn
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The Haskoy neighborhood
Center you can see the Koc Museum, which owns the submarine and ferry boat parked out front

Where the sidewalk ends
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The historically and culturally rich Balat neighborhood
The big red building at left is the Greek school; the white building near the water far right is the Bulgarian church.

Republic Day in Istanbul
(Oct. 29, 2010)

Besiktas Republic Day fireworks show!
View from my living room

More fireworks
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Fall sunset view from my living room
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Closer up
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Fishing boat off the coast of Sariyer,
a neighborhood at the furthest north end of Istanbul, on edge of the Bosphorous and the Black Sea.
(Nov. 6, 2010)

The nets were sort of eerie and beautiful
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Central Sariyer
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Sadberk Hanim Museum.
(the large yellow and white building) It's great--go there! There was a nicely done Ottoman women's clothing exhibit.

No. 3 Davar Sokagi
Creepy abandoned house around the corner from the Sadberk Hanim Museum

Guard dog at museum
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Happy dog
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Jennie and Ricardo came to visit from Paris!
Dinner @ Abracadabra. Jennie and I have been friends since the first day of 6th grade!
(Nov. 9, 2010)

Breakfast at the Besiktas kaymakci
A 100-yr-old shop, purveyor of delicious clotted cream and honey
(Nov. 12, 2010)

Photo with the Besiktas kaymakci!!
Having the crotchety old owner of the place get in a photo with me was one of my top moments in life.

Brunch in Rumelihisari @ Sade Kahve
I'm pretty sure we did more than eat during their visit, but you sure wouldn't know from the photos
(Nov. 13, 2010)

Koy kahvaltisi + menemen
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Jennie and me :)
It was great having Jennie in Istanbul for a 2nd time

Jennie and Ricardo at the Rumelihisari waterfront
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Jennie and Ricardo
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Rob and me
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Looking north from Rumelihisari
At left is the old ferry station, which has been turned into a fancy restaurant

Hijinx on the grounds of the Sabanci Museum
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Enjoying the gardens in the beautiful weather
Rob, Ricardo and Jennie

One of the Sabanci Museum buildings
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Inside the Sabanci Museum
Fantastic exhibit on Treasures of the Aga Khan Museum (extensive Islamic art collection)

Some illuminated texts
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Exhibit on winners of the Jameel Prize,
an award for contemporary Islamic art

Rob contemplates
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Jennie and I cooked Saturday night
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Rob and me at Lacivert for Rob
(11-20-10)

Rob and me
(11-20-10)

Boat back to the European side
(11-20-10)

Back to Heybeliada to celebrate
Rob's 30th birthday

Celebrating in a mature way befitting of a man going into his 4th decade.
Andrew, Patrick, Monique, Peter, John

Not sure
Patrick, Monique, Peter, John, Lina, Other Sam

Lift Rob up 30 times on the chair time
Courtesy of Monique Jaques

Sam
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Unclear whether Patrick was being assisted or attacked
Rob, Abby, Patrick, Andrew

Abby, Rob, Andy, Patrick
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Historic Haydarpasa train station on fire, 11/28
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Sultanahmet at dusk from the ferry
DSC_0081.JPG 2010-11-28
Booze Cruise Season 2, Episode 3: "Pearsons Flood Istanbul", and Other Capers

Brunch at Assk Kahve
Merritt, Saunak & Daniel

On the Bosphorous boat cruise
Merritt

Daniel on the boat
DSC_0004.JPG 2010-07-17

Pulling into Bebek harbor
Saunak and Merritt

Daniel, Saunak, Merritt
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Captain
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Merritt and me in Rumelihisari
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Merritt up top
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Beautiful Tarabya mansions
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Boys swimming
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Merritt swimming in Beykoz
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All four of us on the way back in
SS2.jpg 2010-08-09

Merritt and me in Ortakoy
Saturday night

Saunak and Daniel in Ortakoy
Attempting to blow smoke rings with the hookah/nargile

Inside the Blue Mosque
DSC_0027.JPG 2010-07-18

Merritt and me inside the Blue Mosque
Note that Merritt has worn short shorts and has been forced to wear a skirt as a result.

Daniel in Blue Mosque
DSC_0031.JPG 2010-07-18

Karakoy street art
DSC_0035.JPG 2010-07-18

Inside Rustem Pasha Mosque
Monday morning we walked around Eminonu sights like Rustem Pasha and the Egyptian Spice Bazaar before I went to work and they headed to the Grand Bazaar, Topkapi, etc.

Merritt and me with Iznik tiles
Rustem Pasha Mosque

On the ferry to Kadikoy
Monday night we took the ferry to the Asian side for a last dinner together at Ciya ("chee-ya")

Merritt and me on the ferry
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View of Haydarpasha and the Golden Horn
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Merritt, with his interesting choice of dinner
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Ewww
DSC00488.JPG 2010-07-19

These boys could NOT get enough of the mussels
Walking anywhere was like herding cats, because they were always peeling off to go consume hundreds of mussels. They must have paid this guy's salary for a month.
Booze Cruise Season 2, Episode 2: "The Birthday Cruise"

And we're off!
Third annual birthday booze cruise

Rob with trash can of Pimms
(this was a classy affair)

Alanya friends
Me, Susae, Marisa, Nick

Zeynep and me below deck
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Sarah, Anna, me
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General carousing up top
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Kate, looking very picturesque
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Rob, Patrick, Lars
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Sarah and Crappie Patrick
Nice hat, Patrick

Burcu trying to get Martyn to smile
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Almost there
DSC_0120.JPG 2010-06-12

Much better!
Martyn, Burcu, Alistair

People swimming at Beykoz
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Me, Zeynep, Sarah
Three years of boat cruises and going strong ;)

Singing tender (why does this always happen)
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Belting it out now
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The whole bunch of us
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Sarah and me
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Gill, Rob, me and Sarah
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Rob, me, Sarah
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Enter Lars
DSC_0158.JPG 2010-06-12

Lars, Patrick, Mustafa, me, Sarah
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Nick, lookin gooood
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Up top in Beykoz
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Friends swimming
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Zeynep, me, Sarah
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Mission: Pants Patrick. Stage one: circle like sharks.
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Stage two: launch attack on all sides
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Mission accomplished
DSC_0210.JPG 2010-06-12

Tandogan, Zeynep, Susae
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Roomies: Kate and Gill
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Nick
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The cereal box game has begun
This wedgie will require an archeological dig to remove

Marisa, Emily, Sarah
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Ferry steaming down the Bosphorous
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This city is so pretty :)
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Sean performing acrobatic feats
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Lars
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Nick and Anna
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The morning after: brunch at Kahvedan
Cihangir, Istanbul

Interior of Kahvedan
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Bloody Marys were only appropriate
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Cihangir street
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Looking down from Cihangir towards Tophane
Cihangir Panorama 1.jpg 2010-06-13

Vendors at PAZART, a lovely biweekly bazaar
DSC_0285.JPG 2010-06-13

Stall at PAZART
DSC_0286.JPG 2010-06-13

Kids frolicking in Roma Bahcesi
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Sarah at PAZART
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Sculpture in Roma Bahcesi
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Ne Mutlu Turkum Diyene
"How happy I am to say I am a Turk", a phrase coined by Ataturk, the founder of the modern Republic of Turkey

Cruise ship, Tophane, PAZART
PAZART Panorama 2.jpg 2010-06-13

View from Istanbul Modern
Ist Modern Panorama.jpg 2010-06-13

Karakoy Shipyard building
DSC_0312.JPG 2010-06-13

Sarah and I spent a half day on Suada (left),
a man-made island in the Bosphorous. It is actually centuries old, and was apparently a rich Genoese man's personal garden back in the day.

Lay of the land on Suada
DSC_0050.JPG 2010-06-14

Suada!
Suada Pool Panorama 1.jpg 2010-06-14

Look back at the coast
Suada view of coast Panorama 2.jpg 2010-06-14

Sarah
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In the pool
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Other ne
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Our sultan day bed
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Sundresses and Suada
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Waiting for the boat back to land
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Me
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Floating duckhouse!
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On the Suada boat
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At the Suada pier
Looking at Suada Panorama 3.jpg 2010-06-14

A glass of wine at Assk Kahve
DSC_0137.JPG 2010-06-14
Booze Cruise Season 2, Episode 1: "The Kick-off"

A civilized start to the day
Patrick, Andy, Iskra, Burcu, Alistair, Lars

The crowd on the boat
DSC_0004.JPG 2010-05-29

Ahoy matey
Rob and me

Patrick taking the plunge
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Into the icy waters
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Paulius
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Danny, Nick, Anna
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The debauchery begins here
Beth, Nick, Amy, Patrick

Someone
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This almost hurts to look at
DSC_0030.JPG 2010-05-29

Rob and Nick battling it out
At least the captain's having fun.

They seem to have worked out their differences
DSC_0036.JPG 2010-05-29

Beer and tavla. Mm.
DSC_0037.JPG 2010-05-29

Andy
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Nick Bruche, always stepping on people
Or noses, as it were.

Relaxation
DSC_0042.JPG 2010-05-29

Istanbul skyline and local boys swimming
DSC_0044.JPG 2010-05-29

Boys on buoy
DSC_0046.JPG 2010-05-29

The crowd
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Heading back towards the 2nd bridge
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Lina Kaptan and boys going under the bridge
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Rumeli Hisari
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What to say
DSC_0063.JPG 2010-05-29

Haha
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They are like monkeys
DSC_0065.JPG 2010-05-29

Captain Rob
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Incoming
(almonds)

Nice picture of Patrick
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Here it comes
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Mmm lovely
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Ouch rebound
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Lars giggling
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Desecrating Lina
DSC_0082.JPG 2010-05-29

Look up
Nick and myself having a civilized conversation; Paulius sleeps on the roof

Andy, Alistair, Iskra
DSC_0086.JPG 2010-05-29

Cruise ship parked in Karakoy
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Meet Andy MacDowall
DSC_0092.JPG 2010-05-29

Knocked out Burcu
Happens to the best of us. I myself fell down the stairs and almost gave myself a concussion on the low ceiling.
Hello's and Goodbye's (April and March 2010)

Goodbye European Side
DSC00181.JPG 2010-04-24

Boats out on the Bosphorous
DSC00188.JPG 2010-04-24

Fishing boat in front of Dolmabahce Palace
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Istanbul beauty/pollution
DSC00204-1.jpg 2010-04-24

On the ferry
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Hello girls and Asian side
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Zeynep, Ayse and me
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Zeynep and me
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Ayse and me
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Tranquil scene at Cadde Bostan
DSC00243-4.jpg 2010-04-24

Goodbye Pera Apartmani
DSC00263.JPG 2010-04-25

DSC00266.JPG
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Last drink on the terrace
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Beste and Suzan
@ Lychee in Arnavutkoy for Ayse's bon voyage party.

Ayse and me
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Rob and me
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DSC00280.JPG
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DSC00281.JPG
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Cute
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DSC00285.JPG
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Zeynep, Ayse, Burcu, me, Suzan
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Zeynep and me
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Dancing
If you're still in your chair at the end of the night at a meyhane, you're doing it wrong.

DSC00293.JPG
DSC00293.JPG 2010-05-01

DSC00296.JPG
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General revelry ensuing
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The whole group
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DSC00304.JPG
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Cupcake time!
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DSC00306.JPG
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Hello Sarah!
Dinner @ Big Chef in Tunel when Sarah got into town for our epic SE Turkey trip

Sarah, Zeynep, Ayse
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Windblown Ayse
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Sarah, Zeynep, me
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Hah Sarah and Martyn
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Emirgan: The Helva and Tulip Tour

The Cinaralti area of Emirgan,
a town on the European side of Istanbul, fairly far north up the Bosphorous

Mosque across from the water
DSC_0001.JPG 2010-04-11

Fountain with Ottoman inscription
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Irmik helvasi (semolina helva)
Anna is on a mission to visit all the places Orhan Pamuk discusses in "Istanbul: Memories of a City." This is a cafe where writers and artists used to gather and talk.

Gingerly trying the helva
(which was delicious, I might add)

We strolled over to Emirgan Park,
which is in the middle of its annual Tulip Festival

Tulips
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Twisted tree and clock of flowers
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Red and yellow tulips
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Kids playing in the park
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Beautiful blossoms
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Make me think of cherry blossoms
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Creative flower planting at its best
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A tulip design
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Looking down toward the water
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Colorful tulips
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The Beyaz Kosk (white pavilion)
Complete with all the covered grannies. Wouldn't be a day in the park in Turkey without them.

More dramatic red and yellow tulips
DSC_0111-1.jpg 2010-04-11

Tulip close-up
DSC_0113-1.jpg 2010-04-11

Inside the Sari Kosk (yellow pavilion)
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Sari Kosk
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Another view of Emirgan Park
DSC_0136.JPG 2010-04-11

Creepy tree
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Looking up at the sari kosk
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Anna and me
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Anna and me
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Creepy killer swans in the pond
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Close-up on killer swan
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Enjoying the view
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Gozleme-makers
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Next we found kagit helva (paper helva)
DSC_0208.JPG 2010-04-11

Digging in
DSC_0212.JPG 2010-04-11

The prize of the day
And for only 1 lira!

Looking south down the Bosphorous at the second bridge
DSC_0218.JPG 2010-04-11

The view across to Hidiv Kasri
DSC_0220.JPG 2010-04-11
Chada & Stephen's Wedding

Toasting at the rehearsal dinner
Parents of the groom, Stephen and Chada

France study abroad buddies: Caitlin, Jennie, Courtney
DSC_0010.JPG 2010-02-20

Chada, Stephen and Nenette enjoying some Gordon Biersch beer.
DSC_0011.JPG 2010-02-20

Thinking. It
Also feathered hairbands. She does those well, too.

Rob and me at the rehearsal dinner
DSC_0014.JPG 2010-02-20

Alok and Chada
Westminster friends

Turtles! Jennie, me, Chada, Caitlin
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Cutting the cake
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Both are Northwestern grads
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Sexy, Cait.
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Rob and me in Vinings before the wedding
Not surprisingly, we have received much flack for resembling 18-yr-olds off to prom.

Close-up
DSC_0041.JPG 2010-02-20

With the siblings
Merritt doing creepy things to my shoulder. I told him not to reinforce Rob's stereotypes of the South.

Merritt, Rob, me, Mary Genevieve
DSC_0044.JPG 2010-02-20

The altar at St. Joseph
DSC_0049.JPG 2010-02-20

Mr. and Mrs. Saetie, lighting the candles
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Jennie (a sponsor) and her escort
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Maggie and her escort
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Caitlin and her escort
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Stephen
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Nenette (Chada
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Nita (Chada
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Adorable ring bearer
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Flower girls--so cute
DSC_0064.JPG 2010-02-20

Flower girls processing in
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Here comes the bride!
DSC_0066.JPG 2010-02-20

Chada and her dad
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Approaching the altar
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At the altar
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The setup during the mass
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The entire wedding party
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Taking their vows
DSC_0100-1.jpg 2010-02-20

Bridesmaids
DSC_0102.JPG 2010-02-20

Exchanging rings
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You may kiss the bride!
DSC_0105.JPG 2010-02-20

Extinguishing their individual candles
DSC_0106.JPG 2010-02-20

Lighting the unity candle
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They incorporated Filipino traditions, practiced by Chada
Placing the veil

Then the noose...err, rope that binds
DSC_0114.JPG 2010-02-20

Jennie and the other sponsor gave gold coins for prosperity
DSC_0118.JPG 2010-02-20

Jesus and the unity candle
DSC_0119.JPG 2010-02-20

One of the flower girls
DSC_0129.JPG 2010-02-21

Flower girls
DSC_0131.JPG 2010-02-21

Joining hands to process out
DSC_0132.JPG 2010-02-21

Still looking good after the ceremony finished
DSC_0135-1.jpg 2010-02-21

Leaving the altar as a married couple
DSC_0136.JPG 2010-02-21

Out the door into marital bliss...and a boozy reception
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Yes, I took a million photos of them. They are too cute for words.
DSC_0141.JPG 2010-02-21

Nikki and Arif
DSC_0147.JPG 2010-02-21

The ballroom at the Ritz downtown, where the reception was
DSC_0149.JPG 2010-02-21

Flower girls and ring bearer
DSC_0152.JPG 2010-02-21

Nenette jamming
DSC_0153.JPG 2010-02-21

Caitlin, throwing a football...or just looking like a deranged person
DSC_0157.JPG 2010-02-21

Nita and escort
DSC_0159.JPG 2010-02-21

The newlyweds
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Up to the dance floor for their first dance as a married couple
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First dance
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Pretty
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More first dance
DSC_0177.JPG 2010-02-21

High five
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Listening to Mr. Saetie
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Mr. and Mrs. Saetie
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Caitlin and Ari
DSC_0184.JPG 2010-02-21

Alok, Chada, Imran, Arif
DSC_0187.JPG 2010-02-21

Westminster friends
Alok, Imran, Jennie, Tuck, me, Chada, Anna, Arif, Caitlin

Turtles strike again
Jennie, me, Caitlin, Chach

Best man
DSC_0195.JPG 2010-02-21

Maid of honor
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Father-daughter dance--who knew quiet Mr. Saetie had those moves??
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Exiting the dance floor
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Mother-son dance
DSC_0209.JPG 2010-02-21

Inviting everyone up to the dance floor...
to the tune of Marvin Gaye's "Let's Get It On"

Getting it on
DSC_0216.JPG 2010-02-21

Nita and James
Engaged three days later! Nita caught the bouquet. :)

Electric slide
DSC_0221.JPG 2010-02-21

Party in the USA
DSC_0222.JPG 2010-02-21

Imran, getting down
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Haha Courtney, Caitlin, Ari, Anna
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Rob and me
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Haha
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Arif and Nikki
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Hot in here
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Shimmying. It seemed right at the time.
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Jennie
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The bride showing off her moves
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Chada
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Stephen busting a move
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Nenette getting down
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Chada and Courtney
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James
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Nita
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Not sure, but great robot
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It
DSC_0264.JPG 2010-02-21

Jennie limbo-ing
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Stephen
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Caitlin and Anna at the Westminster table
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Caitlin
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Caitlin!
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Alok and his ginormous camera
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Nenette
DSC_0292.JPG 2010-02-21

The bouquet toss
The legend is true: Chada's sister Nita caught the bouquet and was engaged within 3 days. Congrats, Nita!
Who Is Hannah Grady? (Winter 2010)

The view from my apartment,
post-January storm. Normally you have a clear view of the Bosphorous.

Rob, making tracks towards brunch
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The bal kaymak (honey and cream) place in the snow
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Delicious Turkish breakfast
Bal kaymak (honey and cream), menemen (the scrambled egg pot) and cay (tea). Mmm.

Crazy cousin hanging out
The restaurant is so cute--the space has been around since the 19th century. Ataturk looks on from above the window.

Serving up more bal kaymak
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The newly restored Ottoman mosque by my apartment
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Lamb with a side of charades
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Martyn, Burcu, Alistair
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Cherie, Lauren, Sam
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Captains of the Ladies Team, strategizing
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Nick, one of our hosts
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Anna, Cherie and Burcu
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Ladies Team, concentrating
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Sam on an alcohol run
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Martyn pulling from the hat
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Patrick, round 1
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Rob and Patrick
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Another draw. Perhaps Qaddafi?
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Hold on there
DSC_0052-1.jpg 2010-01-31

Sam looking urgent
DSC_0054-1.jpg 2010-01-31

Lauren drawing from the bag
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Sam
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Haha Patrick
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The confident men's team
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Teamwork
DSC_0064-1.jpg 2010-01-31

Rob's turn
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Patrick and Sam
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Cherie, looking lovely
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The final score.
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Unhappy campers. Sore losers.
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Martyn, gloating
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Looking a bit worse for the wear
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Tunel in the snow
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Lights in Tunel
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Rob and me in Tunel
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Zeynep's birthday! @ Addio mama
Ayse, Zeynep, Zeynep's boyfriend, birthday girl Zeynep

Zeynep & Ceyda
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Rob's "Turkish man" dance
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Rob and me
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Melih
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Zeynep and me!
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And a tambourine for good measure
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Ceyda, Zeynep, Burcu
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Ayse's sad tambourine
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Here comes the cake
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Blowing out the candles
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The point when Rob had had too much wine
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People dancing in the restaurant
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Ensuing events in Taksim...
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How can it be wrong when it feels so right?
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Sam and Andrew
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Northern California Whirlwind Tour

Driving into SF
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Apartment building
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Donuts
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Lunch at The Grove Cafe in the Marina area
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Welcome to California
I probably should have blurred these so no one steals Charlotte's (Rob's car) identity.

Driving over the Golden Gate Bridge
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Old Town Sac
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Sacramento has recessed into the 1880s
Frankly, I was disappointed by the lack of swinging saloon doors.

California in a nutshell
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Nighttime on the Sacramento River
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Historic steamboat
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Freedom fries!
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Cool graffiti
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The original Tower Records
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Waiting for midnight on New Years Eve
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Rob and me
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Chris and Rob
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Chris and Rob
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Throwing those popping things
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Boys will be boys
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The Japanese New Years spread in Turlock
Mmmmmm.

Val and Alec stirring some skiaki
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Rob's dad cooking up more skiaki
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My rice
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Rob and Kenji
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Rob's grandmother, dad, Jean and Rob's mom
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Rob, me and Rob's great aunt Jan, the hostess
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Geoff, unamused
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Tram coming through
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Downtown SF
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The Ferry Building
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Fresh produce for sale
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Ferry Building Marketplace
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Tea shop
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Tasty Salted Pig Parts...
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Mushrooms for sale
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The Bay Bridge
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Rob and me
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Seagull
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Orange-beaked seagull
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Ferry Building at night
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Ice skaters in Union Square
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Speak no evil, see no evil, hear no evil.
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One entrance to Chinatown
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Intense statue and pagoda
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Chinatown street
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Chinatown shop
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Mid-day in Chinatown
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Characteristic street lamps and rooftops
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Pretty red lanterns
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Monastery
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Charming old buildings and signs
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Street lamp and lanterns
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Ok, I went a little photo-crazy in Chinatown.
But it was so pretty!

Eclectic shop
For all your stovetop cooking, bird care and Chinese New Year needs.

The fare in Chinatown
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A pitstop for snacks
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Pretty rooftops
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Colorful building with lanterns
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The Dalai Lama = Liar #1! Liar --> Billionaire!
Well-known homeless guy from Berkeley had set up shop in Chinatown.

God Bless America
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Dramatic SF skyline
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Cool building on the edge of Little Italy
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Little Italy telephone pole
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Gelato shop in Little Italy
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Rob finishing his gelato
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Sts. Peter and Paul Church
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Pier 31
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Alcatraz as seen from Crissy Field
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Charlotte, the competition for Rob's love
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Cute family in Crissy Field
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Path to the beach
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Rob and me in Crissy Field
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I know.
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Looking back at downtown SF from Crissy Field
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Vicious
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Golden Gate Bridge
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Golden Gate again
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Pretty wooden houses
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Rob and me by the Painted Ladies
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The Full House houses and SF beyond
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Close up on the Painted Ladies
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Aylin, Danny and me out in SF!
It had been over two years since I'd seen these dear friends from study abroad!

Skyline of San Francisco from the hills of Berkeley
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Stereotypically Berkeley scene
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The Berkeley crowd
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A redwood tree!
One California mission: accomplished.

The Berkeley Campanile
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Christmas 2009

Delicious Christmas Eve smorgasbord
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Blair, Nancy and me
I look idiotic, but it's a nice picture of them!

Santa and 'his' helper
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Aww
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The Christmas Eve crowd
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Santa donning Little Claire's glasses
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Lookin' good, Little Claire
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Little...who is this?
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Nancy on Santa's lap
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Mr. Hicks and Santa
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"Little Bill" (a.ka. Dad) on Santa's lap
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A rubix cube! How did Santa know
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Little Merritt up to bat
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Santa's long list
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Little Betsy with Santa
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The lovely host and hostesses
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Wee-um making a silly face
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Very cute
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The Kennedy's
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My family
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Merritt, Mom, Mary G, me, Dad
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Christmas Eve crowd
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The sibs
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Closer up siblings
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My stocking
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Caught: Mom recycling an old Mother's Day gift
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The gift proceedings
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Mary G amidst her new toys
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Dad loves having his photo taken.
Not.

Dad and his new beer stein
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Dad and Mary Genevieve
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The carnage
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Mom whipping up a casserole
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Everyone at brunch
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Mary Genevieve working it in the kitchen
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Munich

We got into town after dark
This is the town hall in Marienplatz, the very central historic part of Munich

The perfect time to go wild at the Christmas markets
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Candied apples
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One of the stalls at Marienplatz
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Crowded markets on Friday night
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Christkindlmarkt! The best places to be in December.
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Pouring shots into our rum. Bad idea
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Sarah wouldn't look so gleeful the next morning
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Hot steaming gluhwein
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Stars for sale
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Pumpkin products stall
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Christmas ornaments for sale
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Marienplatz
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A mens choir performing at the Rathaus
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Gluhwein stand
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The Rathaus and huge Christmas tree
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Hofbrauhaus, the most famous brewery and beer hall in Munich
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Hofbrauhaus sign
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Adorable old men in traditional outfits
Hofbrauhaus

The crowds inside Hofbrauhaus
This place seats thousands of people. It was full by 7 PM--I can't imagine what a zoo it must be during Oktoberfest!

Starting in with enormous beers
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Sarah guzzling
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Rob and me at Hofbrauhaus
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Post-slamming my head on the table
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Is this really a good idea?
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Cute Rob, mildly under the influence
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Sarah on her umpteenth
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Words can't describe
It's the background that really makes the picture amazing

Whenever I have a bad day, I can just look at these.
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Marienplatz by day
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Markets under the town hall
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Belltowers of the Frauenkirche
Cathedral of the Archbishop of Munich and Friesing; this was built in the 15th century.

Inside the Frauenkirche
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Lighting candles in the Frauenkirche
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Adorable - mini dirndls and lederhosen
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Sausage shop
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Funny molding
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A little local color in Marienplatz
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Gingerbread cookie stall
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Spires of the Old Town Hall and Church of the Holy Spirit
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Sarah in Marienplatz
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More men in hunting club hats
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The Viktualienmarkt
The well-known year-round food market in Munich

Tower of the Altes Rathaus, now a toy museum
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Walking back into Marienplatz
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Markets in Marienplatz
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The column for which Marienplatz is named
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Looking down on impressive Frauenkirche
We climbed to the top of "Alter Peter"- the bell tower of St. Peter Catholic Church near Marienplatz- for the stunning views

The Town Hall and Marienplatz markets
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Rob and me atop Alter Peter
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Frauenkirche and the Rathaus
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Munich skyline
An interesting mix of old and new that somehow works beautifully

Pretty red-roofed Munich
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Sarah!
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Towards the beautiful Alps
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Augustinerbrau Brewery and restaurant
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Budapest

Julia and me out for her birthday dinner @ Menza!
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Here comes the cake
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The birthday girl dance
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This candle had blow torch-like qualities
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The crowd at Corvinteto, a huge bar/club
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Wall in Corvinteto
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Cool lamp
If there was one area where these Hungarian bars excelled, I would say that it was their light fixtures. All very intriguing.

Lukacs coffeehouse
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Nice picture of Jules
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Nice presentation
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Reflection of Andrassy Blvd.
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Decorative facade on Andrassy Ut., one of Budapest's main drags
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Park and nice buildings off of Andrassy
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Pedestrian path on Andrassy
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Sculpture outside House of Terror
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The House of Terror
A museum dedicated to depicting Hungary's experience under a series of totalitarian regimes. Very interesting and incredibly moving.

Tank inside the House of Terror
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Pictures of victims of these regimes
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Exhibit on labor camps
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Listening to the old timey radio
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You can see down into the bowels of the building
The building housing the museum was actually the seat of Hungary's various oppressive governments. The basement below the tank is where victims were held in isolation and tortured.

Various ads and propaganda
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Exhibit on oppression of the Church in Hungary
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Squalid cell below
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Memorial to the dead
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Budapest street
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Budapest Operahouse
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Great statue
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A look back at Pest and the Chain Bridge
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Chain Bridge and the Parliament across the Danube
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Looking down at the finicular and across at Pest
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Beautiful Budapest skyline over the Danube
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Looking north up the Danube
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The striking Parliament Building
(courtesy of Julia)

Crossing into Buda over the Chain Bridge
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Julia in Buda
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Buda Castle
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Statue in Buda Castle
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Part of the Castle Quarter
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Pretty tree on the castle grounds
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Julia and me at Buda Castle
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Hot wine, please
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Warming ourselves up with some hot wine
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Darkness falling over Pest
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The tramway
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Admiring the view
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The historic Gellert Hotel, inside of which are the thermal Gellert Baths
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Freedom Bridge, another one of the attractive bridges crossing the Danube
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Freedom Bridge as seen from Pest
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The Christmas markets!!!
They had just started for the season, and we spent a whole evening wandering around and eating our body weight in heavy warm foods and sweets.

Julia displaying some of the wilder wares of the Xmas market
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Gingerbread cookies! Delicious.
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The crowded markets
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Hot wine coming right up
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One of the stalls
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K??rt??s kal??cs--the most delicious dessert ever
(courtesy of Julia) They baked the sweet dough on these batons, then dip them in whatever toppings you want (sugar and cinnamon!) before handing you the conical bread to scarf down.

Ironing the meat. Why not?
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Fried potato patties
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We couldn't get enough of the k??rt??s kal??cs
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Bathtubs are chairs at Szimpla
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Jordan

To the Dead Sea!
Rob and I rented a car so that we could get around the small country quickly and do as much as possible in our 3 days.

The Movenpick Dead Sea resort
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Heading down to the Dead Sea beach
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Dead Sea bathers
Many of whom have rubbed the mud from the Dead Sea all over themselves; it supposedly has really great qualities for your skin. After hearing a horror story about a severe body rash resulting from it, I refrained.

The barren Jordanian Dead Sea coast
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Floating in the salty water
It's really true! I couldn't have gotten fully underwater if I'd tried. And note to all: do NOT go in with any cuts of after shaving. Terrible pain ensues.

My nerdy boyfriend reading the Economist on vacation
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Tourists in the Dead Sea
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Soaking up some salt and rays
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Salt-encrusted rocks near the water
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The peaceful sea
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It was a Corona kind of moment
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Corona ad?
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One of the cute wooden umbrellas
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Muddy Germans
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Rays over Israel--this could be a Christian music CD cover
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Palm tree at the resort
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Colorful sunset over the Dead Sea
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Making a little...pit stop en route to Petra
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Feeling a little bit lighter
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Camel crossing
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Petra's town and rock formations from above
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The sign says it all
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Making the mile-long trek down into Petra
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A temple along the road
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Passage between the cliffs
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First glimpse of the Treasury facade
A horse carriage crashes through--one of the many ways of getting back and forth from the entrance. Donkeys ("You want to ride Ferrari?"), horses, camels and carriages abounded.

Rob and me in Petra
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The Treasury
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My new boyfriend
What can I say, I like a man in uniform

Some dolled up camels
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Rob patiently waiting, Longchamp in hand
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Buildings past the Treasury
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Colorful rock walls
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Bedouin inside Petra
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Some interesting rock carvings
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My new donkey friend
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The amphitheater
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Impressive part of Petra
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Close-up of rock-hewn buildings
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The Roman road
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The stones that have lasted all these years
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Just chillin
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I have to say, this camel has a pretty nice view from his office
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I love this one
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Tug of war
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Um, Roman goddess?
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Haha
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Interesting facade topped by stair-like triangles
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Mosque on the way out of Petra
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Last light over the rocks
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Gorgeous sunset
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Inside the feeding tent at our Bedouin camp
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The camp
(We actually stayed in a cabin-like room.)

Amazing setting
We came in at night, and since there are no lights out there in the desert, it was stunning to wake up and see our surroundings for the first time.

Snapping away
"Your wife, she really like photos. She like click, click, click." - our guide

Driving to the protected part of the desert
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Stunning Wadi Rum landscape
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Rendezvous point for 4x4 tours
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Camels off the side of the road
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Guys in Wadi Rum village
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Woman tending to camels in Wadi Rum village
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Woman tending to camels
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Beautiful red cliffs
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Dubiously 'ancient' rock carvings
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More carvings
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Rob in the desert
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Me up high
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Lone tree in Wadi Rum
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Camels below enormous rock formation
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Climbing the death dune
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Rob, not breaking a sweat as he climbs up this dune
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Me, failing miserably
If anyone ever asks whether I have Bedouin blood, just show them this photo

Dumping sand out of my shoe
Futile, really, because we still had to get back down

Tracks in the sand
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The old school Land Rover we went around in
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Candle wax-like cliff walls
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Red rock and sand
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Hardy scrub
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The sand changed colors
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Jagged rock formations
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An old Land Rover in Wadi Rum
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Group of riders passing by
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Me on the arch
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Rob and me
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More Wadi Rum scenery
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Tour guide heading back to Wadi Rum village
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Windswept sand leading to enormous rock formations
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Downtown Amman
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Rainbow Street
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@ Hashim's for a delicious and insanely cheap last dinner
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Death by falafel and fuul
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Ayse's Birthday

Erke, Ayse (the birthday girl) and friend
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Ayse and 2 Zeyneps
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Rob and the performer
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Everyone dancing at the meyhane
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Meyhane revelry
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Group shot
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The cake has arrived
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The birthday girl about to make her wish
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Cutting the birthday cake
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Ayse with Erke and Zeynep
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Ayse cutting the cake
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Zeynep, Ayse and Zeynep
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Rob, Ayse and me
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More dancing
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Boys giving Ayse, Zeynep and me bunny ears
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Hey--
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Much better
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Ayse, Zeynep, friend and me
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Zeynep, the birthday girl and me
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Group shot
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Hah not sure
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Zeynepler and Ayse
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Always biting
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Rob and me
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Nice picture of Burcu
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Sonbahar / Fall 2009

Sultanahmet during Iftar
In Sultanahmet, as in other central parts of the city, there are nightly celebrations during Ramadan to break the fast and entertain people after the sun goes down

Chris and Andrea
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The Blue Mosque, or Sultanahmet Camii, at evening prayer
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During Ramadan, they string the lights between big mosques' minarets
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People praying
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Aya Sofya at night
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The Blue Mosque complex
The text says: "Know the reason for this month"

Andrea, Helena and me
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Picnickers abound
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Meyhane night for Talya's going-away
Emily, Jill and Can

Our table
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Talya and me
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Hot.
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Emre and Talya
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Emre, Talya and me
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Cute. Jill and Can
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The flame of eternal love
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Helena and Jill at Araf
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Everyone dancing at Araf
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Rom tearing up the dance floor
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Sunday brunch at my apartment
Not too sure what Talya's doing here

Pancakes, anyone? We've got one taker
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Two takers for pancakes
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Kim, Helena, Jill, me, and Talya (behind the camera) at brunch
Mmm chocolate chip pancakes

Hmm. Post- Lars' going away party in Harbiye,
supposedly fending off the transvestite prostitutes that wander those back streets

Hahah. Nick, Patrick, Rob and me at Araf
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Patrick, Rob, me, Sarah
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Kiz Kulesi, or Maiden's Tower, seen from the ferry to the Princes Islands
Kiz Kulesi is a small, man-made island which is hundreds of years old. Legend has it that a sultan had visions that his daughter would die by snake bite, so he built the island and put her out there in hopes of protecting her.

View from the monastery on Buyukada
The biggest of the Princes' Islands in the Marmara Sea, just a ferry ride from central Istanbul

Tired after a long walk to the top
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Me
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The monastery atop Buyukada
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The steeple at the frankly rather unimpressive monastery
The one on Heybeliada is way better.

I was not appropriately dressed for an Orthodox church
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Neither was Rob. Working it in the donated pants
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People tie cloths in the trees for making wishes
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Little islands in the Sea of Marmara
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A roof on a Buyukada house
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Rob gets annoyed with my photographic distractions
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One of the faytons (horse-drawn carriages) flying past
Aside from bikes, these are the only transport allowed on the island.

One of the typical beautiful wooden Buyukada houses
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View of the Buyukada harbor from the restaurant
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Creating art from dinner ;)
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Ayse and Sarah slaving away in my kitchen
Ayse employing a cooking utensil--this had to be documented

Zeynep, Ayse and me after cooking
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Ayse passed out on my couch
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Why do we set ourselves up for blackmail? Why?
Sarah and myself having a little childish fun

Greek church in Haskoy
One October day, Jill and I took a long walk around different neighborhoods on the historic Golden Horn part of Istanbul. A far cry from where we live, they have many poorer and more religious people, as well as ethnic minorities and fascinating historic buildings.

The secret garden behind the church
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Armenian grave stones at the church
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Creepy tea truck
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Haskoy waterfront
Haskoy is an area on the Golden Horn, or Halic, in Istanbul. It was very historically developed, then became industrialized due to shipping ports in the area and very run down, but recently has become cleaned up and revitalized.

Haskoy waterfront / old Halic bridge
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Skyline of the old city
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Looking through the old bridge (now dismantled)
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Where the sidewalk ends
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View down the Golden Horn from the bridge
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Rowers passing by
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Sculler on the Golden Horn
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The Koc Museum
A very nicely done museum which mainly focuses on transport and industry (sounds boring, but they have awesome old trains, planes, boats and cars inside). Kind of a little boy's dream.

One of the many parts shops in Haskoy
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No horse carriages on the highway please
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Stairs to one of the bridges crossing the Golden Horn
Was accosted by a soldier here for taking photos too close to a base.

Jillian over a plate of fries, as we wait for the boat
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Next stop: Fener
We took a ferry across the Golden Horn to another very historic and industrial destination

The Golden Horn and Galata
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One of the many shipyards of the Golden Horn
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Fener panorama
You can see the Greek school center top, the Bulgarian church bottom right, and I believe the Ecumenical Patriarchate is in there as well on the left

The imposing Greek school building
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Arriving in Fener
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People waiting at the ferry station
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Fener waterfront
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The Bulgarian church from afar
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Entering the Bulgarian church, which dates to 1898
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Facade of the Bulgarian church
Interestingly, this church was completely constructed of iron in I believe Austria and shipped by boat straight to Turkey, where it was simply lifted off the boat and plopped into this spot.

Note to all: when I die, I want this tombstone
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Upper facade of the Bulgarian church
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Inside the Bulgarian church
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A glass atolier we stumbled across
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The sad state of affairs in Fener
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In the backstreets of Fener
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Cute Fener shop
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Fener streets
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Everyone's got laundry
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Abandoned buildings in Fener
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Sad buildings
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The intimidating Greek school
Sadly, this huge school has only about 60 students these days. It is located very close to the Greek Patriarchate.

This one's for Jill's mom
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Girls atop an old wall recycled for newer cheap housing
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Women walking in Fener
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Hot buns
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Tunel at night (one of my favorite places to go out)
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Another Tunel shot
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Kum Saati (Hour Glass) - a cute bar Jill and I stumbled upon
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Barcelona

La Plaza Catalunya
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Entering La Rambla from Plaza Catalunya
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Crowds on La Rambla
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Mary Genevieve on la Rambla
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Street performers
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Just another day on la Rambla
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Executioner street performer
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What's for dinner
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Another shot of La Rambla
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Busy sidestreet filled with shopping
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Nice shades sis
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Me in the Gothic Quarter
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Street sculpture
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La Catedral in el Barri Gotic
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Interior of La Catedral
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Cathedral angels
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Alley in the Barri Gotic
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Pretty archway
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Flags of Spain and Catalunya
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Small alley in Gothic Quarter
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Buildings on La Rambla
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La Boqueria produce market
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Cool Moroccan-themed bar
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Up on Montjuic for a castle-side movie
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Following Gregg to the action
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The spires of La Sagrada Familia
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Stunning entry facade
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Statues depicting scenes from the Bible
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Mary Genevieve and me at La Sagrada Familia
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Closer up
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Words carved in the doors
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Ok, so I really liked these doors
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Que es la veritat?
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Statue at the entrance
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Interior wall
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Inside La Sagrada Familia
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View of the city from the belltower
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Barcelona below
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Mary Genevieve
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Moi
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Jesus looking down on the world
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Spire decoration
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Mary Genevieve
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On a balcony above the main facade
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The city below
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Very ornate facade of Sagrada Familia
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In the metro
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The Gaudi-designed Batllo House
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La Casa Batllo
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Tooth-like front windows
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Inside La Casa Batllo
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Mary Genevieve inside
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In the tiled patio behind the house
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Park Guell!
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Entering hilly Park Guell...
...along with 30,000 of our best tourist friends

The tiled lizard
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We ate lunch in the shade of this columned area
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Cute Gaudi-designed buildings at the entrance
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The spire and the sea
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The hip crowds
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Park revelers
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MG and me up high in Park Guell
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Mary G in Park Guell
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Man-made Park Guell
Interestingly enough, a failed luxury suburb created by Gaudi that was later turned into a park

Beautiful day in the park
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The highest point in Park Guell
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The city was not in short supply of crosses
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In the woods in Park Guell
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Tile-covered tower
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Out for a delicious paella dinner @ Set Portes
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Mmmm
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Paris

Rainbow over apartment buildings
A nice welcome to Paris

Church spires at dusk
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Old library, forgot the name
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Walking around the Tuileries Gardens
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Old-timey merry-go-round
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Off to dinner in Paris
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Rob and me
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Trying out a cupcake
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Luxembourg Gardens
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Luxembourg Gardens
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Rob and me
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Jennie and me
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Cute little car
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The Musee Rodin
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The Burghers of Calais
Depicting the men of Calais who sacrificed themselves for their fellow citizens

Another sculpture in the gardens behind the museum
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The pond in the gardens
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Throwing Rob in
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Jennie loves bushes?
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Looking towards the Eiffel Tower
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Parisian cycling away
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Intimidating guard of the bridge
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Seine bridge
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Hanging out in the park on Ile St. Louis
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Another bridge shot
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Cobblestone streets and church in the 5th
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Two Muscateers, or, Oh Man! Oman

The view from our hotel room
Note the haze: it was so humid that when you step outside, your glasses or camera lens immediately fog up and stay that

Our digs
I know. Roughing it at the Intercon. I think I loved Helena's job more than Helena loved Helena's job.

Interior of the Intercon
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The Pork Corner
It's where I hang out.

Weird but delicious SE Asian fruit
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More weird but delicious fruits
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The pool area out back
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In the pool...if only the water had been cooled
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Very tall, very skinny palms
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Living the life: a cocktail by the pool
It is difficult to explain how hellishly hot it was there, but suffice it to say that I then understood what a chicken b

Muscat's dramatic landscape
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Driving into Muttrah
Taxis are the only way to get around aside from renting a car (there is no intracity public transport), since cars and g

Glimpse of the Muttrah harbor area
also known as the 'Corniche'

Gazebo by the water
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Passing man
Muttrah, Oman

Men dressed in typical Omani style
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Inside the Muttrah Souq, or bazaar
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Hats for sale
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Khanjars, traditional Omani daggers
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Hallway in the souq
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Scarves and bags for sale
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Lamps for sale
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Passerby in the souq
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Lantern in the souq
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One entrance to the souq
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Omani passerby
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Crescent atop a mosque
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Passerby near the souq
Most women were fully covered like these

Main souq entrance
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Men watching the ships go by
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Muttrah waterfront at dusk
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Southeast Asian workers at the harbor at dusk
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Harbor panorama
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The Corniche after nightfall
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Helena and me at the harbor
Even at night the heat and humidity were overpowering

Al Lawatiya mosque
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A salon? A cafe? A store?
No: a doner stand. Go figure: they call their doner stands 'coffee shops.'

Al Lawatiya, the historic merchant quarter
If you are not a resident, you are not allowed to enter, hence my being given a metaphorical swift kick to the rear afte

More restored merchant houses
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Sultan Qaboos Mosque from the road
This was really a huge complex

Our driver, leading us inside for a tour
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Arches and a minaret
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Helena and me in our mosque gear
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Showing us how to perform ablutions
Despite our protests that we already live in a Muslim country and see this all the time, he insisted on going through th

Minaret and corridor around complex
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Inside an arch
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Wall carvings and minaret
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The exterior of the men's mosque
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Central dome of the men's mosque
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The beautifully tiled mihrab
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Helena and me inside the men's mosque
There were actually two mosques on the premises; one for men and one for women

Interior of the (main) men's mosque
It was really huge--note how tiny the people in the front of the mosque appear

Carved doors
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Guard in a courtyard
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The women's mosque...
If this isn't misogyny, I don't know what is. Quite small and...orange.

Helena, perhaps pondering the lantern
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Covered women visiting the mosque
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Resting in the AC
At 10 AM, already too hot to be outside

Back to the Mutrah harbor
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Portuguese fort above Mutrah harbor
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The Corniche by daylight
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Fishermen bringing their catch to the market
The reason I came back into Mutrah was to visit the Mutrah Fish Market

The Mutrah Fish Market
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Fishermen
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Butchers inside
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Mutrah fish butcher
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Fish for sale
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Baby sharks for sale
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Bargaining for fish
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Omani fish sellers
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Fishy business
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Omani man buying fresh fish
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The man's got crabs
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Crabs
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Misery:
When what you want is so close, but you just can't have it.

Beautiful Mutrah harbor
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The Corniche
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Muttrah shops
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Pretty Al Lawatiya houses and mosque
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Beautiful tiled minaret
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Dinner with Betul, Helena, and Helena's tagalong
We ate at a quite good Indian restaurant and also met some OBG colleagues of Helena's in the bar below.

Haha
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Edirne Roadtrip

Sam, starting the day off right--
with a cigarette or 2 and a McDonald's breakfast menu

And off we go: to the oil wrestling.
Driving out of Taksim Square in our rental car

Lauren, Shubra and Patrick
pondering events to come on the front page. Wondering if it was that great? Well, it was. Men covered in oil groping eac

Everyone, meet Patrick.
Patrick, everyone.

Ruined Ottoman mosque by the road
Edirne is a goldmine of Ottoman history and architecture

Passing horse-drawn carriage
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One of the very old Ottoman bridges
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Lauren, Shubra and Selami at tea
Selami, a resident of Edirne and friend of Lauren and Shubra from Bilkent University, was kind enough to show us around

It was the 648th anniversary of the event
The competition, in which men actually don leather pants and cover themselves in olive oil to wrestle in the baking sun,

Entering the chaos around the stadium
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Some home-cooked food being served
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Gozleme (savory crepe) stand
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The historic tower at the stadium
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Welcome to Kirkpinar
Kirkpinar, meaning "forty streams", is the name of the town which hosts the oil wrestling event. Legend has it the first

We arrived on the day of the championships
(The tournament goes on for about 2 weeks, I believe)

These were the lightweights
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Selami, Lauren, Shubra, Patrick and Sam in the stands
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Starting position
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Kid doing a victory lap
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The whole stadium
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The crowd
Perhaps not surprisingly, a bunch of dudes

The band
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Locking arms
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Close-up shot
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He found his rival's Achilles heel, if you will
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When new competitors came out,
they did this really funny exaggerated walk around the stadium, swinging their arms and legs really high and slapping th

The fun begins
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Multiple final matches going on at once
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Not quite sure what to make of all this
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Uh oh. Now he's going down the front.
I believe Selami told us that "this is a great sport for gay guys!"

As the drummer boy sees it
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Selling almond cookies in the stands
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If there's one thing they don't do enough of in this country,
it's display the Turkish flag.

Drummers
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Dousing himself in oil
At this point the prizefighters came out

The championship heavyweight match
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Off you go
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It was pretty excruciating to watch at times
Ok, to be fair, the only way they could get a grip on the other was to hold onto the pants, since their skin was so slip

These guys fought dirty.
Unfortunately we didn't get to see who won--this match in particular went on for so long that even the commentator yelle

Driving into the center of Edirne
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Toward the Selimiye mosque
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Minarets of the Selimiye Camii
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One side of the Selimiye complex
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The Selimiye's inner courtyard
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Pretty windows and Iznik tiles
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Men performing ablutions
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Abluting before prayer
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Exterior mihrab and chandelier
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The beautiful central dome
Part of why it's my favorite mosque in Turkey!

A look towards the minbar during prayer time
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Chilling outside the Selimiye
For the record, I've been told that a headscarf becomes me.

Hah.
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Another minaret shot
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Part of the facade
Unfortunately my lens wasn't wide-angle enough to get the whole thing.
Summer in the City 2009

Kandilli harbor
A beautiful town on the Asian side Bosphorous, north of both bridges, which has a gorgeous view back at the city. It has a couple of fish restaurants that people truck all the way up here for (the stunning sunsets of Rumeli Castle don't hurt, either).

Sculpture at Italian church
(Galata)

Inside the church
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Church of St. Peter & St. Paul in Galata
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Graffiti exhibit in Galata
Helena and I went on July 4, pre-party.

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View from the roof of the building
The exhibit was in a decrepit building with no lights or handrails around 5-story drops, but had stunning views

Looking at Galata tower
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Helena
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Roomies - Helena and me
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Cute.
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Yours truly
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America's biggest patriot
(Patrick, wearing black to show his indignation at American independence)

View from Abby & Rob's rooftop
at their apartment in Beyoglu

View of the Golden Horn
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July 4th revelry
Helena, Ismet, Arzu and friend

Pavel, Shubra, Lauren
The overalls are supposedly ironic.

Lauren, me, Helena, Shubra
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Here's lookin at you, kid
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Sam, Abby, Patrick
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Abby, our gracious hostess
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Talya, dazzling in her headscarf
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Unfortunately, my outfit
didn't exactly make the cut, so I donned some nice prayer-wear.

Cultural outing to Sakirin Camii,
the only mosque in Istanbul to be designed by a feminist architect. Very interesting interpretation of Ottoman architect

Looking towards the mihrab
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Interesting chandelier
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Worshiper
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Full view of interior
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The upper women's section
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The whole chandelier
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Little guy, big Allah
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Separate men's and women's sections
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The central dome
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The courtyard outside
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Nice reflective fountain
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Mosque visitors (including me)
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Kids playing in the fountain
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Birthday Booze Cruise '09

Besiktas kaymakci
Great breakfast place in Besiktas, which specializes in clotted cream and honey, and leaves you wondering what other thi

Besiktas carsi
The central part of Besiktas

Turkish breakfast
A typical breakfast platter at Sade Kahve in Rumelihisari. I dragged Sarah out to where I work for brunch!

Wouldn't be complete without your cay
Turkish tea is an integral part of the experience

My menemen
Delicious egg concoction

My fave brunch place in Rumelihisari
You can see the castle peeking through in the middle

Inside Sade Kahve
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Pre-cruise VIP brunch
At Assk Kahve, with Andy, Sarah and Helena

It started at promptly Bloody Mary o'clock.
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Yours truly
Doing a little liver warm up for a long day of athleticism

Rob and Patrick
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Andy and Sarah
Hahah displaying Andy's sketchy Bulgarian vodka, fermenting with peppercorns and a lemon peel

Double-fisting by 1 PM.
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Emrah and Gregg
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Sean and his poor friend
whom he told that the boat occasion was a costume party.

My "birthday present" and me
Gotta give 'em points for creativity

The bottom deck
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Nancy, Natalie, Sheryl
Westminster reunion! Nancy and I graduated one year apart.

Jill, me, Sarah
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Gabbing about who knows what
Jill, me, Sarah, Tamara

Helena
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Ladies and gentlemen, Rob Tashima.
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Kerim, Rob, me
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Man love
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Pink yali
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Talya and Sarah
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Zeynep, Erke, Ayse
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Top deck
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Hahah
I have about 5000 variations of this photo. And I love each and every one.

Nick, Patrick, Kerim
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Rob and me
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Zeynep and me
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Kizlar + me
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Patrick, suiting up
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Bosphorous bliss
They braved the jellyfish and pollution and brought their beers along for the ride

Talya and me
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Cute shot of Jill
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Jill and me
Jill is trying to hide behind me as Talya attempts to take a Sports Illustrated shot of Jill

"Ok guys, look like you're going to prom"
Appropriately awkward.

The "serious picture"
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More swimmers
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Haha the dancing begins
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View south from the boat
That's the 2nd bridge in the picture

Rob and me
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Haha not sure what was going on
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Jill, me, Talya, Rob
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Rob and me again
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Another cute one of Jill
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Oh captain my captain
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Pretty bay on the Bosphorous
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Helena sunning
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Tamara toasting
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Sam and Tamara
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Talya and Becky
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Upper deck
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Talya, Jill, Patrick, Andy
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Talya, Anna, Nick
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Lauren, like a tiger
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Talya and me...again
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Brits on a bench
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Patrick, looking chipper
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Bilkent crew
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Sarah, me, Ayse, Zeynep
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Girls + Kerim
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Coming back towards the first bridge
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Helena and Sarah
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Trouble is brewing.
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The sunken ship was a bad omen
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Kurucesme
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Nick diving off in Kurucesme
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Patrick following suit
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Towed back to safety
If these guys had been caught by the coast guard swimming in this crowded part of the Bosphorous, we would have owed the

Ayse and Zeynep
Dinner at Mije in Reina

Zeynep and me
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Hmmm
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Forgot what I'm demonstrating
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The group at dinner at Reina
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Malta

Our hotel
Hotel Juliani, on St. Julian's Bay

On the bus
They were a great mode of transport; they passed right in front of the hotel and went all over the island,and only cost

Near Valletta city gates
The buses, imported from the UK in in the 1950s, 60s and 70s, are an attraction in themselves. No two looked the same, t

This one had some serious flare
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No Woman No Cry
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Fountain outside Valletta city gates
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Valletta city gates
The original gates must have been bombed during WWII, because these looked nothing like the attractive architecture in t

Valletta balconies
These blue and green wooden balconies jutted out from the limestone buildings all over Malta and Gozo.

Republic Street,
the main street running through Valletta.

The Maltese flag
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The Auberge de Castille
This once housed the Portuguese and Spanish members of the Knights of St. John, but now holds the offices of the prime m

Close-up of the facade
Auberge de Castille (Valletta)

Valletta street
The whole city was hilly with these cute, narrow streets

Street corner saint
It was pretty crazy how literally in every patch of available wall space you could find religious imagery

Entrance to the Upper Barrakka Gardens
Alternate title: Malti is a weird, weird language

Inside the gardens
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It was a nice spot
And a nice escape from the unforgiving Maltese sun

Arches line the lookout area
From the Upper Barraka Gardens you can see the Grand Harbour and many of the bays surrounding Valletta

Canons below
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Looking across the Grand Harbour
The peninsula on the left is Vittoriosa; the one on the right is Senglea. Valletta is just another little finger of land

Senglea
One of the fingers of land poking into the Grand Harbour

Rob and me at the lookout point
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Corner cafe and St. Paul's
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Colorful balconies
Most streets looked like this

Old doors
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Interior of Ambrosia
Cute, cozy family-run restaurant

The menu at Ambrosia
It changes every day depending on what's in season and available

Delicious risotto
Lunch @ Ambrosia, a restaurant in Valletta.

Valletta shop
There were so many charming little anachronisms in Malta, especially including ancient cars and old-timey-looking shops

Street leading to Fort St. Elmo
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More balconies
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Valletta building
These lightbulbs hung in every city and village--during religious festivals, which happen all the time, they light up al

Wall decoration
These were everywhere

Interesting detail
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Square in Valletta
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Street sign
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Grand Master's Palace
In the courtyard

Clock tower
Grand Master's Palace

Interesting clocks
Grand Master's Palace

Emblem of the UK
Grand Master's Palace

Helmets in the armory
Grand Master's Palace

Another street corner saint
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HAH.
You've gotta give it to 'em, it's clever.

Side chapel
Sanctuary Basilica of Our Lady of Mount Carmel

The altar
Sanctuary Basilica of Our Lady of Mount Carmel

At Fort St. Elmo
Rob & me

Valletta bus terminal
Headed back to St. Julian's after a long day of touristing

St. Julian's Bay
One of the many bays around the island, and where we stayed.

Hilarious molding
Props to Rob for spotting this

St. Julian's
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Traditional Maltese fishing boat
St. Julian's bay

On the way to dinner
Yep...on the yellow bus

Off to Gozo!
These ferries took only 25 minutes or so to reach the second largest island, Gozo, where we stayed for 3 days and 2 nigh

One of the Mgarr-Cirewwa ferries
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Passing Comino
The 3rd largest island in the Maltese archipelago, Comino is uninhabited, but has beautiful beaches and a lookout tower

Lookout tower on Comino
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Coming into Mgarr harbour on Gozo
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Mgarr Harbour
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Qala's central square
Pronounced "ah-la", this was the village where we stayed.

Church in Qala's main square
On the triangle of streets around it were cute pubs and great restaurants

The street our B&B was on
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The grocer
Which, like everything else, never seemed to be open. Quite the lazy way of life.

One of the many churches around Qala
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Flowered cacti
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Walking to the beach
Below, you can see the island of Comino and the neon-blue waters of the Blue Lagoon

An amazing spread at Ta'Vestra
One of the restaurants in Qala. De-li-cious. My new favorite thing is embarassing Rob by having food photo shoots in nic

Now who's embarassing?
Preparing to scarf down a fillet in pepper sauce

Across the fields
You can see Comino and Malta, as well as a small windmill on Gozo, beyond

Man working in his field
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Caper bush
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Cabbage patch
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Running back down to Hondoq
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The jagged coast
On the southeastern edge of Gozo

Cliffs and Mgarr beyond
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Pretty pasture
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Beautiful clear water
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The beach at Hondoq
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Victoria, Gozo's biggest city
On an island of 30,000, that doesn't say a whole lot. We rented a scooter for the day and drove all around Gozo, stoppin

Cool sign
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Walking up to the citadel
Victoria (a.k.a. Rabat)

Walking around the citadel walls
Victoria/Rabat

Citadel passageway
Victoria

The citadel walls
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Victoria beyond
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Little lizard on the wall
These guys were everywhere

Walking around the walls
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Citadel interior
Victoria

Archway on alley in citadel
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Gozitan buses
Definitely less charming than their Maltese cousins

Street in Victoria
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The Azure Window
A natural rock formation on the west side of Gozo

Pretty cliffs to the south
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Me in the Azure Window
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The Interior Sea
That cave, which has mostly collapsed, leads out to the sea

Traditional fishing boat
In the Interior Sea

Boathouses
around the Interior Sea

In search of a beach
Malta is one of the hardest places ever to find a comfortable place to park one's rear-end. The rocks are razor sharp.

Countryside at dusk
A wrong turn on the scooter led to some beautiful vistas

Sunset near Ta Cenc
Gozo

Ta Cenc cliffs
Another stunning natural formation on Gozo

Ta Cenc cliffs
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Rob and me at the top
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Julie and Scoot
Julie was the owner of the B&B where we stayed, and Scoot her faithful co-pilot

Hondoq beach
The nearest beach to our B&B

Off to Comino
From Gozo you can take boat trips out to the third largest island and uninhabited in the archipelago, Comino

Rob and Jonathan, the captain
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One of the many caves around Comino
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Look at that water!
It was incredibly deep and clear

Rob & me
In one of the caves

Sailboats out around Comino
It was a very windy day

The Blue Lagoon
The sheltered beach Comino is known for. Back center is the Knights of St. John observation tower, and on the right is t

Thoroughly soaked
Jonathan was an 'adventurous' driver

Interesting spiky flowers
Comino

View over beautiful Comino
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Blue Lagoon again
Gozo beyond

More pretty flowers
Comino

Maltese beer
Some cold ones at a bar in Qala after a hard day's work at the beach, and with a long night ahead at the airport.
Olympos

Looking towards Olympos
After an hour on a plane, a half-hour on a shuttle, an hour and a half on a minibus and the prospect of another half-hou

The path to the beach
It takes you through the ruins of Lycian Olympos, pretty cool to poke around in

Stream parallel to the path
The city ruins continued on the other side

A Lycian tomb near the beach
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The beach at Olympos
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Emily, Talya, Meg
The lucky ducks had gotten there 1-2 nights before me

Jill and Kait
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Another look at the beach
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Talya, Jill and me on the beach
Wednesday Night Cooking Club does Olympos

Lunch at one of the pansiyons
Emily, Talya, me, Kait, Jill, Meg

The fires at Chimaera
They didn't turn out well in photos, but these fires come from natural gas deposits and have been burning on the side of

Jill and me
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Big dandilion
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Ruins across the creek
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Stone-lined path through the woods
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Walled-in tombs
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Another Lycian tomb
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Mosaic floors of an ancient home
Destroyed by earthquake

A somewhat intact mosaic
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Stream pouring through ruin walls
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Walls of an ancient home
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Another tomb in the woods
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The path through the woods
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Eastern side of the beach
Rocky but pretty

Jill and Meg
Enjoying our Sunday in Olympos
April in (Mostly) Sepia

Caitlin and me
Westmonster reunion!

Arvand
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Talya, pre-paparazzi mission
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Cheers, Patrick
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Arvand bears the paparazzi attack
quite gracefully

Mysterious Arvand and me
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Sam
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He's just got that je ne sais quoi
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Salsa-ing
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Roxy
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There must have been some scandal
The cheap wine will never tell

Patrick and me
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Lauren's talent
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Roxy and Jill
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Hahahahah
The pinnacle of Talya's drunken paparazzi stint shown here, as the waiter actually runs away and hides from Talya, but s

Talya and Michel
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So much going on here
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Group at the meyhane
Tunel

Classic.
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Savoring that mussel
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Street shot
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Dancing at Kulp
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A Rumelihisari brunch
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Cupcakes in Bebek!
Sometimes you just need color.

Arv and me in Arnavutkoy
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Adorable
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Arvand and Anna
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Brunch at the Marmara
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Cool aerial view of the Golden Horn
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City view
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More Istanbul from above
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Alan's band @ Studio Live
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All piled up in a loft
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Frenchies
Quentin, Kim, Sebastian

Frenchies + Turkish-Frenchies
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Helena and Nick
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Kim and Arvand
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Helena le gusta la Gusta
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Quentin, Arvand, Kim
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More people in the loft
I had no idea so many people could cram into one tiny smoky area

Sebastien, Quentin, Kim
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Assk Kahve
One of my favorite brunch spots

Mr. Cool at brunch
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Me at brunch
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Arv and Jill
Assk Kahve

Cousin It
Up in the kuafor
A Day in Karakoy

Breakfast in Rumelihisari
at my favorite, Sade Kahve (black coffee). There's a peek of Whitney on the left.

Icon in Armenian church
(Kurucesme)

Galata Bridge scene
Karakoy, hectic as always

Old Karakoy building
Karakoy was the Ottoman banking center, and all of these old ornate buildings housed the banks.

The Arap Camii, or Arab Mosque
First a mosque, then a church, then turned back into a mosque, this space housed the oldest mosque in present-day Turkey

Street scene around the entrance
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Jill and Helena in the courtyard
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The courtyard
This building remains from the church; the fountain was an addition when it was converted into a mosque later

Window inside the mosque
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Covered ladies
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Who's that sexy villager?
Oh wait, that's just Jill, being punished for wearing scandalous clothes to the mosque. Put some pants (or a village ski

Interior windows
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View of the interior
As with many churches-turned-mosques, you can see the awkward placement of the mihrab and minbar

Jill, Helena and me at the gate
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The odd, key-shaped gate
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Sign on the side of the mosque,
claiming its origins dating to 715 AD

The last remaining gate
to the Genoese city--Karakoy/Pera was originally a European-ruled piece of territory, mostly by the Genoese. As a result

The Genoese gate from the other side
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The Genoese crest close up
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Empty gallery
inside a small museum in Karakoy...whose name I am of course forgetting

Karakoy street scene
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A couple of ne'er-do-wells
enjoying the nice weather

Talya and Helena
atop the staircase

I really like these stairs
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Old French building in Karakoy
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Another old bank building
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Back at the Galata Bridge
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Reflections
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Ottoman fountain
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Fishermen at the Karakoy waterfront
Looking towards Sultanahmet and the Aya Sofya

The harbor to the right
Our Kadikoy-bound ferry awaits us

Boarding the boat
and busy Karakoy beyond

Passenger looking on
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The Karakoy waterfront
(view from the second story of the ferry)

Pulling away from the European side
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Silhouettes at dusk
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More silhouettes
Sultanahmet and the Bosphorous behind us, steaming into the Marmara and Kadikoy

Seagulls following the boat
A ferry, Beyazit tower and the Sultanahmet Camii behind

Golden Horn panorama
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Lone seagull
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Tanker entering the Marmara
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Sunset over the Blue Mosque and
Aya Sofya

Crane at Kadikoy docks
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The view from behind
Europe on the left, Asia on the right

A passenger downstairs
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A miniature passenger
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Coming into Haydarpasa
The hub for trains coming into Turkey from Asia minor

Building details
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Awaiting the boat
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Wide view of Haydarpasa
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Disembarking
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Last look at the ferry station
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Harbor barrier and Sultanahmet beyond
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The Kadikoy hot air balloon
You can go up in it to have a view over the city

Pensive traveler
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Fish salesmen
At the Kadikoy harbor

Fish for sale
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Freezing Cold Hamburgers

My first night in Hamburg
At a delicious Italian dinner

Great fountain near Sarah's house
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Fighting over the fish
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Figures along the fountain
Lizard and fawn

Nice lizard
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Cyclist in Altonen
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Hamburg used to be its own state
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Mwaha stalker photo of Sarah
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Ducks on a canal
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Sarah and me!
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The Rathaus
Nope, not where rats live. The mayor's office.

The ornate roof
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The Rathaus belltower
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Delicious delicious pastries
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Busy shopping street
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Anti-Israeli demonstration
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Demonstrators
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Close-up
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Flying the Palestinian flag
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More demonstrators
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Central Hamburg at night
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Rathaus and Christmas tree
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Sarah and me under the tree
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Neuer Wall shopping area
They even had Urban Outfitters!

Our homecooked meal
Quite extravagant and delicious, if I may say so myself.

Street near Sarah's house
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Funny street sign
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The. Turks. are. everywhere.
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Market in Altonen
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A bagel!
To the ordinary observer, this is not very interesting, but when you've gone 18 months without a bagel, this is heaven.

Sarah,
getting in her daily Koran reading.

Statues in the
Museum fur Kunst und Gewerbe

Far East exhibit
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Dragons popping out of the walls
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Uzbek tile
They had a nice Islamic art section

Really pretty.
Not entirely sure what it does, but it's definitely pretty.

The robots!!
Part of the Art Nouveau exhibit

Hahah good times
The robot exhibition was the best part of this museum by far.

Hahah
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Words can't do justice
to this tender moment

Yeah!
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Oww
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I do a GREAT cactus impression.
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I will be demanding
this for my office.

Fun mirrors
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Train station by rainy night
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More Hamburg at night
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Dinner on the lake
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The lake
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Snowy day
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The spire of St. Michaelis Church
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Getting some good luck from
the lemon lady

Now I'm lucky
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The water bearer:
the symbol of Hamburg

Sarah and the water bearer
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Striking statues
over the entrance to St. Michaelis

An angel stomping one
miserable demon

View from the top
Unfortunately it was too foggy to see much of anything

Sarah and me in the spire
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Hamburg historic port area
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Winter city scene
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Remnants of New Years fun
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Otto von Bismarck's statue
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Stolpersteine
"Tripping stones", which commemorate the houses where Jews lived who died in the Holocaust.

Devil's Kitchen
"Teufelsk??che", for the German-ly inclined. Good, cheap Thai food!
Serbia, Montenegro and Croatia

@ Happy Hostel
Our digs in Belgrade. Actually not half bad. Thankfully we got out before the Australians got in.

Bookstore
Oh Cyrillic alphabet, how you have become an integral part of my visa runs. Perhaps I should learn to read you at some p

Interesting building
+ cable car lines

Suit of armor
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Nice building
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Amanda S
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Me
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Cute cafe
on Republic Square, in the center of Belgrade, where we sat for a while on a nice afternoon

Both of us
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Jelen
The local beer

Interesting shop window
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Knez Mihailova
Belgrade's main pedestrian thoroughfare. Lots of shopping and restaurants

Pointy-toed
moccasins...apparently a big tourist souvenir

Park before
Kalemegdan, Belgrade's main historical attraction, the city's ancient fortress

More of the park
Belgrade had a lot of nice green space

Rooftops
Looking down towards the river

Pedestrians in the evening
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Knez Mihailova
by night

Republic Square
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The 'Bohemian Quarter'
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Mmm PORK!!
I seriously believe that at least one of us had pork at every meal

Belgrade market
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Entering Kalemegdan
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View over the rivers
Kalemegdan is at the point in Belgrade where the Danube and Sava rivers meet

Amanda and me
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Road in the castle
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Rivers and
larger fortress grounds

Scenic viewpoint
inside the castle

Weaponry
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The Stamboul Gate
Kalemegdan was originally built by the Romans but over time used by the Turks, Austrians and Serbs to dominate the city.

Belgrade train station
Unfortunately the weather was like this for most of our trip

I will admit
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I was doubting
our danity as we approached our dark, graffitied, very old car.

But the inside wasn't
too bad.

The upper bunk
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Pulling out of the
Podgorica (capital of Montenegro) airport in our awesome orange Twingo!

First glimpse
of ocean through the fog which tends to coat these mountains

Budva from above
Budva is Montenegro's largest tourist destination. You can see the oldest part of the town stretching along the peninsul

Inside old town Budva
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Finally at the beach!
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Budva churches
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Central plaza
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The sign says it all
The old town citadel

Yep, that's me
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Aerial view of
old town Budva. Really cute, must be really nice when the weather's good for swimming and lots of people are visiting.

Amanda and me
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Another little church
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If only
The water looked so tempting

Me inside the
citadel

Sveti Stefan
A man-made peninsula which used to host a fishing village but now has been turned into a tourist resort

The gorgeous landscape
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Old town Kotor
Our stop for the night. Located on a scenic bay, Kotor is the largest town.

Inside old town Kotor
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The fortress at the top
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By evening
the mountains were turning pink

Castle walls in
the dark

Entering a gate
into the old town

One of many squares
within Kotor's old town

Amanda S and our
peanut-sized landlord of the night

Pomegranate tree
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Bay of Kotor
and ominous clouds

Me at a pitstop on
the bay

Driving into Perast
Another medieval town along the bay of Kotor

Amanda made a
canine friend. No one else likes street dogs as much as Amanda and I do!

Two islands off the
coast of Perast; one was built on top of ships that the citizens captured and sank! The Bay of Kotor was home to legit p

A monastery
This island was not open to the public

Our Lady of the Rock
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Looking back at
Perast

Couldn't resist
Where there aren't stone lions...I make do

Little guy guarding
the second floor of the church

Look out the window
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Inside the church
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Bright blue domes
Like a Greek island...but not

Island view
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Headed back towards
land

What's your name?
Amanda.
What's her name?
Amanda.
Oh...are you sisters?

Dramatic Perast
in the calm before the storm

Dubrovnik bar
Even though it was the off-seaon, the bar was still really crowded

Check this out
Yes, it's true, a Confederate flag was hanging above the bar. Unbelievable.

Old Town Dubrovnik
by night

Column capital
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Dubrovnik Cathedral
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Jesuit church
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The sanctuary
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Prayer candles
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Look down at
the fountain and area by Pile Gate

Main thoroughfare
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Climbing the walls
The big tourist attraction: climbing the old town walls. Really cool views of the city !

Out the Pile Gate
Amanda and I rented an apartment just up this street a bit

Another part of the fortress
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The walls
stretching along the cliff.

Hair tornado!
Amanda Standlee and me

That wind was
something else

Sitting pretty
Or trying to. The wind had other plans.

Both of us
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Amanda, signature
cigarette in hand

A kuna for your thoughts
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Old town rooftops
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Basilicas and sailboats
Not a bad life, eh?

Meeeee
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Old town walls
Pretty sea going almost metallic at dusk

Finally some sun!
It was so nice to have a warm (ish) sunny afternoon to sightsee--we were plagued by bad weather for most of the trip

Still tromping around
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Impressive tower
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Amanda S
This one's for Mom!

Amanda at the top
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Panoramic view of
Old Town. Dubrovnik's old town is a UNESCO world heritage site; it's one of the best preserved in the world.

More me posing
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Instructions:
"Look like someone just jumped out of the closet, but you're really excited to see them!"

Guillotine
This is for the tourists who block the path along the top of the walls by walking too slowly, and also for those who thi

Windy backstreets
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Ferry across the
Kotor Bay. I don't even want to talk about the bathroom experience here. Unfortunately it only got worse as the day wen

Our car...
Somehow the 'sleeper car' on our ticket was interpreted as the couchette with a sheet that we ended up in. With no locks

The bathroom situation
was not. good. My bladder was about to burst after the 14 hour wait.
Summer '08

The fresh cherries
growing on the trees in the yard

Mmmm
Testing out the fresh-off-the-tree cherries in Sariyer

The view
Erhan's uncle's house

Erhan and his big camera
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Children in Garipce
A fishing village on the Black Sea coast

Twisted Galatasaray flag
over the craggy inlet

Colorful boat
in a colorful sea

Colorful fishing nets
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Cute kid
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Old and young fishermen
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The port in Garipce
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Cute kid in a wheelbarrow
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Erhan and me at tea
in Garipce

Another Garipce shot
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Castle at mouth of
Black Sea

Erhan and Deniz
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Thorny flower
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Funny flower
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Power lines on a blue sky day
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Broad view of the Bosphorous
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Erhan and me and
the Bosphorous below

Deniz,
stoking the mangal

The breakfast/
lunch/dinner table...did we ever stop eating?

Erhan,
pretending to be useful

Erhan,
pretending to be useful for the second time

Me,
taking a whirl at the mangal

Reality
Deniz cooking while Erhan smokes nargile and looks on

Hmmm
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Hmmm?
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Only a mother
could love that face. I say that with love. :p

The meats
they are a cookin'

Sometimes it takes
two

The girls at play
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The ladies of the house
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Kokorec. Raw.
I suppose there are grosser sights in this world, but I'm not sure what they would be.

At the dinner table
Feasting on all that mangal

Ahmet and his friend
the cat, who exchanged soulful meows after brunch in Rumelihisari

The face of
hungover indecision. With a Mediterranean breakfast platter in front of you, where to begin?

Living the hard life
at the Ciragan Palace pool with Sarah

Brave Sarah
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The Bosphorous-
front Ciragan Palace pool. Not half bad.

The actual palace
redone after a 20th century fire

Sarah and me
I have no idea why we're ducking

Another shot from
the Ciragan terrace area

Bday pics bow on top.jpg
Bday pics bow on top.jpg 2008-08-18

Sarah and her dad
in the pool

First shot on the boat
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Expat girls
Ozlem, Kelly, Amanda

Boarding the boat
Burcu, friend, Zeynep

Sarah, Ayse and Tunc
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Ayse and Tunc
The (once) happy couple

Belma and me
Fulya roomies!

Sarah, Belma,
me, Mahmut

Mahmut and Sarah
Bday pics Mahmut and Sarah.jpg 2008-08-18

All hands on deck
Hanging out upstairs before the waves got to be too much for us

Bebek harbor at dusk
Bday pics Bebek harbor.jpg 2008-08-18

Ahmet
Bday pics Ahmet.jpg 2008-08-18

Sarah, Belma, me
On the upper deck

Boys on deck
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Bday pics Sarah Belma me Mahmut.jpg
Bday pics Sarah Belma me Mahmut.jpg 2008-08-18

Me, Zeynep, Burcu's friend
and Burcu benching it

One of my faves
Sarah, me, Zeynep, Burcu's friend, Burcu

Another great one
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Serdar
I owe credit for most of these photos to him!

Bosphorous at dusk
So pretty

Moon over the Bosphorous
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Pretty sunset
Zeynep, Burcu and friend

Cute girls
Ayse, Zeynep, Burcu

Blowing out the candle
on the birthday cake

Blowing out
the candles

Ozlem and Cihan
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Ayse, Zeynep, Sarah
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Cruising at night
Burcu, Zeynep, Sarah

Looking smug
Erhan

Boys being silly
Bday pics Erhan Cihan me.jpg 2008-08-18

Kelly and Amanda
Bday pics Kelly Amanda.jpg 2008-08-18

Sarah and me
NOT eating multiple slices of cake. Definitely not.

Friends after dinner
Serdar, Whitney, Ozlem, Mahmut

Whitney and Ozlem
Bday pics Whitney OZlem.jpg 2008-08-18

At Sortie
Cihan, Ahmet, Mahmut

Cemre, Dilay, Belma
Cemre was killing everyone with his electric dance

Out to dinner @ Assk Kahve
Erhan, me, Ahmet, Belma

Julia and me in Ortakoy!
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Pretty much sums up
our weekend

Blurry Josh
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Nevizade by night
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Jules and me
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All of us in Taksim
Julia, me, Whitney, Josh

Whitney and me
engrossed in conversation

Savoring their Efes
is that an oxymoron?

Better known to patrons as
"THE Bar"

In Kurucesme
pre-excellent breakfast and girly day of pedicures and shopping

Cheers--seriously
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Sad, hung-over me
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Julia, thankful she is not
as hungover as I am

Disembarking from the ferry
at Buyukada, one of the Princes Islands. Such a nice daytrip!

People at the station
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Feature of the old station
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Harborside Buyukada
"Buyukada" literally means "Big Island" and is one of the islands located in the Sea of Marmara, technically still part

Pre-attack
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You know, it is my
staunch belief that one can just never have enough Turkish flags.

Some old buildings on the hill
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One of the faydons,
or horse-drawn carriages, that are the only traffic on the island other than obnoxious children on bikes.

Quiet old street
Buyukada is so pretty and pleasant and historic. We loved it!

Julia and her new friends
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An old wooden house
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Demoralized donkey.
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I couldn't agree more.
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Another old house
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Looking out on the Marmara
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Tranquil street
No traffic + houses with yards and dogs + old wooden houses = what Istanbul should be

Weird pine cone-ish things
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Biggest dog ever!
He was easily as big as we were! And so sweet

Seriously thinking about it
(that's a For Sale sign)

So I realize that this is a
fixer-upper, but what do you think?

Another cute puppy
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Back to the harbor
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Details on harbor house
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Shops and crowds
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Sunset over the islands
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People strolling around
the harbor

Bikes
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The pretty ferry station
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Jules and me
That's Heybeliada in the background

Sunlight on the water
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Waiting ferry
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Sun glinting off the station
at dusk

Sunset over Heybeliada
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Berliners

We stumbled upon an art gallery
which happened to be offering free wine. Yes please.

The photography and prints
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Our interesting beers
Mine a wheat beer, Sarah's one that I believe was combined with sprite and tasted about as light as tea. Delicious.

Dinner in Hackescher Hof!
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Cheers!
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Enjoying a cold one
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Drinks at a beach bar on the Spree
That's the Bode Museum on Museum Island across the way

Better look, with lights
Interestingly enough, you get back money if you return beer bottles and glasses at the bars we went to.

These fruity condom ads were everywhere
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Sausage stand near the metro
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Adorable crosswalk signs Berlin is known for
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Kaiser Wilhelm, striking even from a distance
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The former church, terribly damaged during
airstrikes in WWII. Now it is a memorial to the war.

The remaining interior, which you can visit
��t's very small and is actually only the entrance to the former church; the chapel itself was destroyed.

Ceiling mosaic
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Kaiser Wilhelm and sort of ugly new chapel
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The view from under my umbrella
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Close-up from the other side
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Rainy Friday in Berlin
But we didn't let the weather dampen our spirits!

Sausage, anyone?
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I just HAD to try currywurst, a common
German street food

Sarah over her currywurst and fries
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Amanda grinning over huge plate of food
Shot #1, more to come

Currywurst
Cooked sausage + BBQ sauce-ish stuff + curry = mm mm good.

Sarah on the train with her candied nuts.
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Many-floored train station
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The S-bahn
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The Spree and TV Tower shrouded in clouds
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The Chancellor's residence and offices
It is right next to the Reichstag

The Reichstag building
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Kids playing soccer on the lawn
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This is the German parliamentary building
Also severly damaged during the war, it was creatively renovated.

The facade
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The commoners
With Sarah's brilliance we were able to skip the line and whisk inside, straight up to the dome.

��nteresting buildings near the Reichstag
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The Reichstag dome from outside
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The sheets of glass
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It was all very Matrix-like
Except no one was living in pods

One of my favorites
The Reichstag dome is a photographer's playground

People in the dome
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Me!
The mirrors made such a cool effect.

German flag flying high
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Criss-crossing levels
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Cityscape
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Taking a load off in the adjacent cafe
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View over the Brandenburg gate
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Detail on Reichstag wall
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Passing train
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Enormous horse statue
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A colorful train stop
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And another one
I felt like I was in an ipod commercial

Checkpoint Charlie
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The classic sign at the crossing
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Wide view of the intersection
There is also a Checkpoint Charlie Museum, which details fantastic escapes from the East and other things, but I unfortu

Tourists buying Soviet memorabilia
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The Jewish Museum
��t includes both the older building on the left and the new building on the right

��nside the Jewish Museum
The corridors were called axes; I think this one was the Axis of Continuity

The new building, designed by Davis Libeskind
in the shape of a broken Star of David

The Garden of Exile
A 'garden' of tilting cement columns on uneven ground is meant to disorient the visitor, while the flowers growing on to

The architecture is bizarre and is meant to be
a disorienting experience for a visitor--as if the life of a Jew in exile

Stairway to nowhere
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Different kippahs
My favorite was the one with the Friends cast on it

The stars Jews were forced to wear
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An exhibit on the "Jewish nose"
This was one of the most interesting parts, I thought--a whole exhibit on stereotypes

A mask of a Jew, for stage performance
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Viennese walking canes from the 20th cent.
The faces were meant to be those of Jews

Wait for it...
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One of the most politically incorrect things
I have ever seen in my life. Love the regal white guy in the middle. Looks like the white man's burden hasn't worn him o

Brandenburg gate on July 4th
The American embassy just reopened next to the gate, and there was a huge celebration

Amanda hunching over enormous amounts of food
^yet again.

Weinerschnitzel!
Unfortunately, despite sharing amongst 4 people, I did not manage to conquer this beast.

A cute painted bear exhibit we stumbled upon
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Of course the Cuban bear
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The colorful German bear
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The opera hall
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The facade, lit up by night
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Normally a gorgeous square
There was an open-air opera being performed that night, so we stopped to listen.

Plaza off of Unter den Linden
Beautifully lit up

Run!!!
Those bastards started the fireworks show early!

The Brandenburg Gate was nicely lit up as well
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So pretty
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Somehow there were like bazillions of
Americans in Berlin that weekend, many of whom seemed to be in the right place at the right time, like us

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If only idiotic people's heads weren't in the way!
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Sarah and her mom in front of their house
in Nicholassee, a quiet, elegant, old part of town with big old houses

Fresh fruit for sale inside the S-bahn station
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The Spree River and Museum Island
That's the Bode Museum straight ahead

Trinkets for sale at a little flea market
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Sarah and me!
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Trying on some Soviet knickknacks for size
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Gas masks! Get your toxic gas masks!
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Flea market next to Museum Island
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Sarah buying her babushka dolls.
Please note the Confederate flag, far left.

Inside the Pergamon Museum!
This is actually the reconstructed entry gate transported from ancient Pergamon (modern Bergama) in Aegean Turkey.

Frieze from the gate
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More man killing woman while being eaten
by serpent drama. Same ol same ol.

Large mosaic and other Roman relics
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Part of the extense Ishtar gates,
taken from Iraq and reconstructed inside the museum

Unbelievably colorful tiles
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Lion from gate tiles
A.k.a. my attempt to make a terribly angled photo artsy looking. What can I say--the guards were breathing down my neck

Serpent's head
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A beautifully tiled mihrab
Taken from a mosque in Konya, Turkey

Woodcarvings
Taken from Syria, which hosts some of the world's best

Syrian mihrab
Typical Syrian stonework

Sexiest park ever. Not.
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Enjoying the sun in front of Berliner Dom
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Berliner Dom, or Berlin Cathedral
Severely damaged during WWII, it has been restored

Kids playing in the fountain
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Approaching Alexanderplatz
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Sarah telling lies to Pinocchio
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The TV Tower, looking vaguely like a
space ship

Inside another train station
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Some graffiti under a bridge
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The cute stop sign man
Look at his little hat!

Some graffiti on a wall in Prenz Lauerberg
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Corner cafe
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��nterestingly painted residential street in
Prenz Lauerberg

I would rate the kitsch factor as high. Very high.
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Wide leafy street in Prenzlauerberg
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Perusing a Moroccan imports store
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��nside the store
Beautiful lamps of all shapes and sizes

Mirrors and lanterns
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Pretty floor lamps
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Beautiful glass lanterns
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Vintage clothing boutique
��n Prenz Lauerberg

Entering the boutique
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"This is where the 80s came to die."
-Sarah

Indeed.
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Whimsically dangling dress and sailor shirt
Prenz Lauerberg

Band performing in the street
They say Berlin is like New York in the 1980s. I'm tempted to agree.

Blueberries for sale in a street market
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Heaps of colorful straw bags
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More street performers
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Hats, hats and more hats
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This was hilarious.
The little dog didn't realize that the big stuffed dog wasn't real and kept trying to make friends with him.

His owner couldn't pry him away.
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Beautiful decor in Siam Vietnamese restaurant
In Prenz Lauerberg

Paper lamps and paper cranes
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Berlin skyline
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This old towered bridge over the Spree looks
somewhat anachronistic in the urban neighborhood

One part of the East Side Gallery,
the remaining stretch of the Berlin wall

There were a lot of murals, but unfortunately
many were succombing to age and vandalish

Boys reading a newspaper
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A political statement
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This image was everywhere
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Escape
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More graphics
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Typical.
It's sad--a lot of the original art seems to be falling off the walls, and trashy graffiti replaces it

Stencilling and graffiti
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One more
I like this one for some reason

Urbania
You can see how the Berlin wall was actually comprised of multiple walls, with a 'death strip' in between. In this photo

The Spree and pretty old bridge
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'Interesting' crowds at the German-American
event in front of the American embassy. There were Elvis impersonators aplenty, for some reason.

Fake statues.
If all else fails, I should look into this.

Statue atop the Brandenburg Gate.
Interestingly, part of it was once stolen by Napoleon, but was later returned. Also, the statues used to face the East,

The Brandenburg Gate
Pretty at dusk

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
Just behind the Brandenberg Gate

Sarah's and my shadows
No idea why my head looks so gargantuan. Perhaps because I ate so much weinerschnitzel.

2711 concrete slabs on a sloping field
serve as the memorial. There is apparently no connection between the number and style and the Holocaust; the sheer size

If you can't pregame at home...
Why not on the train? Our behavior was totally appropriate for our next stop: White Trash, where we fit right in.

I only had one drink--it's just that my flash
is about as bright as 349898 exploding stars

Fellow compatriots at White Trash
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C is for the City of Lights

A peek at the Pantheon

Jennie, bff since 6th grade and trusty tour guide,
leading the charge to the Pantheon

Pantheon and beyond

Jennie's adventures in using my SLR
photography #3

Building on the rotunda

On to the next stop

Pretty Parisian architecture

The Luxembourg Gardens

Pond with sculptures

Terrace in the garden

The palace

Children playing with boats

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Perfect shot
Props to Erhan, who took it

Wandering around the gardens

Clocktower on top

Enjoying the sun

Modern art/jungle gym

Typical buildings
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The Siene and gorgeous view

Gargoyled tower
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Hotel de Ville

Rue du Rivoli

The Hotel de Ville

A metro entrance

Another look down Rue du Rivoli
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Some funny-looking tomatoes
There was some great-looking produce at the markets

Column marking the original jail

Place de la Bastille
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Police blocking a protest at the Bastille
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Hotel De Ville across the Siene
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Beautiful building on the Seine
If someone knows what this is, can you tell me?

Jennie and me :)

City plaza
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Erhan's sweet meat dish

All of that stuff combined to
make a delicious couscous dish with meat/veggie broth

A rainy night in Paris

Damp Paris, still charming

L'Opera

Walking to the Siene islands
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Notre Dame

Glimpse of the Siene

Riverside sign

Full side view of Notre Dame

Flying buttresses

From the back gardens

Flower in the Notre Dame gardens
a

Side detail

2 squawking gargoyles

Church relief
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Notre Dame side detail
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Close-up gargoyle
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Another gargoyle
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Detailed facade of Notre Dame
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Top part of facade
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Bottom part of facade
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Notre Dame towers
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Detailed entrance
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Statue in front of Notre Dame
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Bridge to Ile de St. Louis

Pretty apartment building
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Accordian player on the bridge!
Like out of a movie, except that he was kind of dirty-looking

Notre Dame from Ile St-Louis
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Notre Dame from behind the grounds
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Another look from Ile St-Louis
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Metro entrance in St. Michel
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St. Michel fountain crowds
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St. Michel fountain
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Streetside cafe
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Dragon details on the wall
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Very old church near St. Michel
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Colorful metro entrance
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Kids playing soccer

A pipe with a sock. Hmm.

Narrow passageway
Note the leaning walls on the left

These kids are 2 kool 4 skool.

The necessary Louvre visit
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Inside the glass pyramid
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Winged Victory of Samothrace
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Passageway full of statues
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Ceiling detail
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Louvre courtard
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Statues overlooking the courtyard
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The outdoor cafe
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Great men
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Walking away from the Louvre...
and to the Champs Elysees

An Egyptian Obelisk
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The Champs Elysees and
the Louis Vitton store

You're not just drunk
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Jennie and me on the bus after

Our first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower
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Someone lounging on the lawn
Just like we did for a few hours! Probably the most pleasant part of our trip.

Tower and lawns
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Eiffel Tower
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Jennie and me
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From below
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The cable car
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Cloudy day
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Sacre Coeur
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Crowds listening to music below the church
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City view from the top
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Looking the other direction
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The terraces below the church
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Let's get a close up on that one
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Eiffel Tower from afar
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Pretty building at dusk
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A walk along the Seine
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Faces under the bridge
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Drinking sangria with Jennie and Alex
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Alex
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Boys in blue
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B is for Bruges

Graffiti-d old train

Arriving in Antwerp
(where we transferred to Bruges)

Gorgeous interior stonework

The upstairs platform

Our digs--pretty sweet
Hotel Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce (5 bucks if you can pronounce that)

Canal view near hotel
On the right, the breakfast area

Cafedraal, a 600 (!) yr old
building converted into a great restaurant

Headed to dinner

Inside Cafedraal

You can't tell, but I'm making
the same expression as the monk on my beer bottle

't Brugs Beertje
This bar had over 400 types of beer, each with their own glass!!

The damage, early on

Kwak!
The beer served in this funny glass is called Kwak, and apparently makes a weird noice when quickly poured out

Savoring the kwak

More damage
The night was not yet over

Decor in the bar

Erhan and me

Out for a run in the morning

Beautiful canal view
And our hotel, right smack in the middle! (the one with the dark woodwork, on the left)

Saintly

Fresh strawberries for sale

One of the city gates

Riders, start your engines...
Drawbridges surrounded the tiny city of Bruges. Fortunately bikers were the most dangerous traffic around.

One of the windmills on the
outskirts of town

Another Bruges windmill

A big red one

The fourth windmill

Barge and drawbridges

Empty streets

A wide canal

Interesting details everywhere

What a picturesque place

Tiny drawbridge

Beautiful detailed facades

Reflections

Pretty row of houses

Reflections 2

Reflections 3

Street corner

Serene Bruges
Does the fact that the birds below are fake take away from the gorgeous view?

Cyclist on the quiet streets

Another beautiful cityscape

Statue in a small square

Angled streets

A lone motorcyclist

Walking to Markt Square

The Provincial Court

Restaurants on the square
These were formerly houses of the medieval wealthy

The fourth side of the square,
shops and restaurants

A room with a view

Across from the hotel

My most interesting breakfast
Kiwi, cheese, blood orange, quail eggs...the preceding Belgian waffle and the following scrambled eggs are not shown

A more critical look at this
spread

View from our table outside

Charmed, I'm sure

Now there's a souvenir
to bring home to Mom and Dad

Another gorgeous canal-front
hotel

Flowers and stained-glass window

Our fellow rubberneckers

The Church of Our Lady
which is over 800 years old

Our Lady's spires from the canal

Canal-side door

Bruges canal

Our hotel!!

The half-timbered style Bruges
is famous for

Brick spires

No anchoring here, I suppose

Canal houses

Colorful houses

Another tourist boat

Evidence of the medieval
window tax--people would close up windows to not have to pay

Dated building

Cute canal-side gondola

More window-tax evasion

The less practical entrance to
our hotel

Horse-drawn buggy
The sound of hooves clopping on cobblestone was a constant noise backdrop

Carriages in Markt Square

The belfry tower and cloth hall

Inside the cloth hall

Bruges' cathedrals

Bruges panorama from the belfry

Close-up on St. Salvator

Nice cityscape

Aerial view of the restaurants
on Markt Square

Exiting after a treacherous
climb back down

Charming facades

Colorful curtains

Cute sculpture

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Cute square

Dogs made of chocolate
at the Chocolate Museum--totally overrated

All the ingredients for making
chocolate

Adding the outer shell of the
chocolate into the mould

Fast-forwarding to the final
product

A store selling Belgian beers
I don't know how one would ever learn them all

Glasses for each individual beer

Quiet square where we grabbed
some beers before heading to the train station
A is for Amsterdam

Outside Central Station
We had made it--now, to catch the right tram...

Out the tram window

Cluster of bikes

First taste of Dutch
I really hope this guy didn't get wegsleepregeled

Vondel Park
Just a stone's throw from where we were staying

Old houses on the lake

Leidseplein in the evening

Street performers in Leidseplein

One of the many canals

Another nice canal view

Interesting house facade

Booze cruisin' down the canal
Lots of people were just cruising around in their motor boats--fun way to spend a weekend afternoon!

Interesting statue and colorful
houses

Old clock tower

One of the many churches

Streetlamps and silhouettes

Riding in a bike taxi
With a crazy Dutch guy who had biked all across Europe, Turkey and Central Asia

Sign at one of the "coffeeshops"

Lit-up bridge

Big old tree in Vondel Park

Pretty flowers on the tree

Taking a stroll

More ponds and people lyingabout
All in all, Amsterdam was a pretty chill place

Guy with dreds playing some
really interesting instrument

Funny stone on the wall

Bikes bikes everywhere

City scene
Near Central Station

Interesting clock
I have no idea how to read it, but it's definitely interesting

A pedestrian bridge

Terrifying.
Alternately titled: "A Falafel to die for" or, "Real Life: I'm Obese"

Leidseplein

Canal view

Some pretty houses
Seen on the tourist canal tour

Particularly dramatic house

Pretty row of houses on the
canal

Boatful of reveling musicians

Some bars in Dam Square

Amsterdam's diverse demography

Native American show ?

Shuttered windows

Wide view of Dam Square

National monument

The Royal Palace, on Dam Square

Royal Palace

Horse & carriage & me

Quaint bridge

Yep, just me and Diana
Inside Madame Tussaud's Wax Museum

Really, now, George?
Unfortunately with the flash they don't look real at all--in real life they were pretty good replicas

I guess the World Peace section

Out the window from the museum

Lance
Now dating Kate Hudson?

Robbie Williams and me.
I believe the musem employee's inviting line was : "there have been many before you"

HAHAH
Erhan and Bob marley...priceless

Hahaha and the Spice Girls

Justin

Tiesto

007

Just another night out with
Jules and George

Me 'n Mona

Why don't we meet at 5 at the
homo-monument? Sorry, couldn't resist.

People enjoying the nice weather
in Rembrantplein

Don't take that photo

Evening in Amsterdam

Most bizarre fast food ever
You put in your coins and out comes some type of burger/sandwich/unidentifiable lump

This must have been Gay Street

The busy Red Light District
Really lively, actually my favorite part of the city that we visited

Canal in the Red Light District

The Erotic Museum
Unfortunately wasn't able to visit...maybe next time?

Working girls and passerby

And away to Belgium!
Rites of Spring/American Invasion

Monument in Gayrettepe

Turkey in a nutshell

Metro entrance

Baltalimani, where I work

Look down the Bosphorous

Look at Anadolu Kavagi, across
the Bosphorous from Baltalimani

Lisa and Virginia at the meyhane

Virginia giving raki a chance

Haha Cihan, Lisa, Virg

Me and the yabancis

Erhan and Cihan
@ Cumhuriyet Meyhanesi

Crystal, me, Erhan

Ahmet and Belma

Hahah

Crystal, post-raki
Looking good despite the scarring experience

Cihan with his two loves:
Raki and cigarettes

Ayasofya from afar

Ayasofya closeup

Inside the Ayasofya

Looking out the window
at the Blue Mosque

Another look out the window

Last window view

Virg at the fertility column...
typical.

All of us in Sultanahmet :)
Me, Crystal, Lisa, Virginia

All of us at Yoros Castle,
atop Anadolu Kavagi on a beautiful day

Virginia and me
This is what happily ever after looks like, people.

Ortakoy in the evening
Great wide-angle shot, taken by Crystal

View from Ortakoy to the Golden
Horn--gorgeous.

Ortakoy fisherman

The Taksim trolley
Istiklal Caddesi

Girls at Leb-i Derya for wine

Out the window at Leb-i Derya

Tina, Erhan and me @ Balans

Jess and Eliza

Erhan and me at Balans

My first Turkish wedding!
At a restaurant called The Bridge on the Asian side

Bride (Turkish) and groom (Dutch
Terrible shot, but necessary

Erhan and his mom

A group with the bride and groom

Caitlin and Ari @ Mimi's Taverna
Caitlin and Ari are living in Amsterdam but visited Istanbul for the weekend; the restaurant is Greek and in Arnavutkoy

High school reunion :)
Caitlin and me, #3 of 4 turtles to grace Istanbul

There was so much dancing

Ari, working it with raki inhand

All together now

Ari and friend

Throwing plates and stomping
on raki glasses...all part of a night at the taverna

Erhan and me

Entering Emirgan Park
Emirgan park, located way up the Bosphorous, is known for its amazing tulips in April

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Pretty path

Ahmet, Belma, me

Belma and her new friend
Snacking at Beyaz Kosk, or White Pavilion

Looking like a proud mom
...Or a kidnapper.

Ahmet and Belma

Colorful garden
Can you spot awkward me?

Interesting tulips

Turkey has a centuries' old
tulip tradition

Bright contrasting flowers

Unfortunately by the time we
came, many of the tulips were drying up and dying; the season is quite short.

There is only so much one can
say about flowers

The gardeners planted the
flowers in different designs




I have never seen so many
different types of tulips in my life

I thought the park had an inter
esting crowd; a real slice across the entire demographic of Istanbul


Sari kosk, or Yellow Pavilion
I guess these were all retreats for wealthy Ottomans at one point in time

The building had beautiful
woodwork

Another detail

Carvings and shadows

A bay window

The attached cafe

Sari kosk from below

Just married
And wow, what a vehicle




The lake in the park

Fountain in the middle

Ahmet and Belma at the lake

Erhan and me

Bright contrast

Beautiful yellow flowers
Erhan's new Nikon SLR takes great shots


Dark creepy tulips
I thought they looked like dried blood

Fence in the park

Just outside the park entrance
at sunset

Walking back to the car

The restaurant where we ate,
way the heck out in Rumeli Kavagi

You could see Anadolu Kavagi
across the Bosphorous

Anadolu Kavagi

Belma and Ahmet, having a
moment

Really nice shot

Black Sea and beyond

Belma and me--roomies!

A little further back

Erhan and me

Me and a troublesome twosome

They are cute. I like them. :)

Night on the Bosphorous

A fierce look from Ahmet

Looking back down the Bosphorous

Belma, protecting the balloons
from idiotic boys with cigarettes who like to pop them

Belma + birthday boy

Aww ;)

Haha like a mother hen with her
pastel eggs

The birthday boy :)

The happy couple

Belma, Ahmet, Cihan, Dilay

The crowd keeps on growing
Me, Belma, Ahmet, Cihan, Dilay, Erhan

Serdar, Belma, Cihan, Ahmet,
Dilay, Erhan...nice pair of balloons, Cihan

Cake time

Blowing out candles andsparklers

A well-deserved kiss
Dilay cooked for the whole group

Belma and Ahmet, still
protecting those eggs

Then Dilay exploded a tornado-
like party favor all over the room, and then things went downhill

They began to do things with
streamers and lampshades that I never knew were possible

The dance, it comes from within

Hahah not sure what's going on

These two danced like maniacs

Dur.

The many uses of streamers:
Neckwear or toupe?

The many uses of streamers 2:
Chest hair supplement, festive hair decor.

Hail Caeser

The last of the mohawkins

Selcuk, looking good

And then the lampshade came out

Serdar won the prize:
Most Likely to Secretly Be Hindu. Is that unoffensive or have I been in Turkey too long?

Hahahah

He just has a certain...
je ne sais quoi

Selcuk steps up to the plate

Cihan checks out Belma's new
look

Ahmet shows Gozde how it's done

Perfect.

It's like Mardi Gras gone
terribly, terribly wrong.
The Depths of Winter

Getting DOWN in Araf

Blinking Gregg and me

Sean and Mehmet

Birthday boy and me
Pre Irish woman scandal

Erhan and me

Dilay and Cihan
The birthday girl and her new watch!! At a meyhane for Dilay's birthday

Cemre and Ebru

Erhan and Mahmut
Mahmut was visiting on his way back from India to Mersin

Erhan was quite popular with the
clarinetist, who followed him around like a lost dog

Hott

Ebru and Dilay

I think this was when they stole
my camera for a couples-only photo shoot ;)

Ebru dancing to the fasil

Me dancing in the meyhane
Erhan is so embarassed haha

Serdar giving Cihan a big old
hug

Haha Mahmut across the table

Cemre

Cute shot of Ebru

Susay, Lauren, Jimmy

Dilay working it to the fasil
(traditional Turkish music)

Hahah Corey after a long night
Corey, Chloe and me

Chloe and me

Adorable new Alanyalilar
As good a group as there ever was

Jimmy and his new friends
"He is 29. She is 41. What the fuck?!?"

Ahmet and Belma at karaoke

Ayse and Tunc, crooning away
at Princess Hotel karaoke for Zeynep's birthday

This is a hot one

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Zeynep's birthday cake!

Birthday girl cutting the cake

Zeynep #2 stealing the sign

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Zeynep, friend and Burcu

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Burcu, Zepnep and me :)

So cute

Haha Ayse and Tunc

I love this group shot

This couple got moves

Burcu and buds

Burcu and boy, belting it out

Tunc and Ayse profile

Ahh...the misty mountains...

Ipek and me
We're going on the road

The birthday girl, pooped

Besiktas carsisi

Besiktas harbor, covered in snow

Cannon detail

The slushy waterfront area

Besiktas waterfront
Look how ice green the Bosphorous is

A ferry pulling into the iskele

Erhan drinking sahlep on the
vapur

Dolmabahce Palace and beyond

Closeup of Dolmabahce

The snowy Golden Horn

Topkapi Palace and old city wall

Topkapi and Aya Sofya on the
left

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A snow-covered tree

Snowy tree and Marmara beyond

Istanbul after a weekend of snow
Home for the Holidays: Thanksgiving and Christmas 2007

Pre-dinner chaos at our apt
on Thanksgiving

Cookers + spectators

The whole spread
Ellerine saglik, Amanda ;)

Fatih, menacingly cutting the
chicken (he actually requested this photo be taken)

The dessert schmorgesboard

The cook kicking off the
round of thanks

Tanja and Erhan

Cat, Amanda, Annie

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DSCN4795.JPG 2007-11-22

The Turks

Amanda and the happy couple

The Messiah!
The first time I attended the performance and didn't sing

Sort of a ragged looking bunch,
I have to say

Mary G. and one insolent
reindog

My fat little reindog

Haha Baxter struggling

What a hard life he leads

Maybe back off to the North Pole

Ensemble reunion concert!
Men's A Capella, adorable as ever

Ruckus at the Loves' house
Ensemble Reunion Concert afterparty

Just like old times :)

2003 WE'RE FREE

So cute
All the 2003 grads

John and me

KathK working the...saz?

Kelsey and me!

Ross and John
What a fine pair of chaps in matching hunting jackets at Bars

Nicole and me

Santa and Santa's helper

Little Merritt on Santa's lap

Excited about his new puzzle

Little Nancy!

What could be better for the
long flight to London than a Babysitters Club book?

Little me on Santa's knee

A new scarf!
(Which by the way, I do wear)

Little Mr. Hicks haha

This time it's Santa's turn to
sit on someone's lap

Another racy Santa shot

Mom stepping up to the plate

Little Blair

Blair, Katherine and me

Our lovely hosts
Mrs. Kennedy, Wee-yum, Katherine

Nice Kennedy fam shot

Two Hicks and a Jew walked into
a bar...

The sibs and me
Mary Genevieve, Merritt and me

Present time!!

Look what Santa brought

Baxie and me

The us...Cafe Intermezzo
(us = usual, if you're not used to my abbrevs)

Candlelight conversation

My Johns and me
Together again

Haha kind of a weird shot...
Kelsey, a naked statue and Smith

Pinkies up
Istanbul: Fall 2007

Out to a delicious dinner at Set
Ayse, Burcu, Zeynep and me

Ayse and me

Burcu and Zeynep

In the car en route to Bebek
for a late brunch...and all-day extravaganza

A look out the window

The secret garden behind Cihan's
house. With the amount of stuff they grew there, I could have played for hours. Amazing to find this much green space!

Gourds

Playing in the garden
Caroline, Renee, Cihan, Erhan

A dead sunflower
Interesting called 'moonflowers' in Turkish

Marveling at some plant
Renee, Caroline, Erhan

Erhan and Hasan

Pumpkins and squash in the shed

Me with a bunch of grapes
These were seriously the most delicious grapes I'd ever eaten. Home-grown food is the best.

Haha napiyor Ri-ney

The iftar table spread
Aside from typical Turkish cuisine, Cihan's family had made some delicious Black Sea food as well

The int. dinner crowd
Hasan, Cihan's aunt, Elif, Caroline, Cihan, me, Renee, Erhan; Cihan's dad ate with us too

At the Kanlica harbor
Erhan, Renee, Cihan, Caroline

View towards the bridges

Bridges and castle

Closer up of Rumeli Hisari

People at Kanlica harbor
Once just a Bosphorous village, Kanlica retains its quaint character even though it is very much inside Istanbul today

Caroline and Erhan being awkward

Rumeli Hisari from lookout point
We went to a cafe with an amaaaazing view to the northern European side of the Bosphorous, ending our long day

Rin-ey and me, huddling for
warmth. Those Istanbul nights are CHILLY!

Roommate shot
Erhan and Renee

Castle and skyscrapers beyond
That's 4. Levent in the distance...amazing view, eh?

Ladies in the kitchen at Levents

Haha not sure but I think it
involved something about making smores in the microwave

Dinner at Levent's house
The roomies: Levent, Emre and Cosku

Levent and Emre

Levent, drinking from the cup
I forget why now, but for some reason it seemed like a great idea to take a single shot after dinner--Mongol style?

Shalvar time!
Priya brought the boys shalvar from her trip out east

Levent looking so natural in the
shalvar

Emre, unable to dress himself ;)

"The guy at the bus stop"
Frighteningly realistic...who would guess this is a Bogazici grad from the Ada?? :)

Jus add a pillow and...

Hahahah

Three humpty dumpties

Another roommate gut shot

Bear-hugging Priya
Whose hairy arms are those reaching around from behind??

Hahaha the koylu couple
Levent and Caroline

Words can't describe

Priya, exploring the versatility
of the shalvar

"It's like a SlimFast ad."
(As Josh aptly put)

Enter inflatable toy
This photo shoot just kept getting better

Caroline, working the shalvar

Shalvar-clad ladies
Me, Priya, Caroline

The view from a neighborhood
where I taught, perched way up at mouth of the Black Sea on the Bosphorous

Distant Maslak and Levent
skylines

Old houses undergoing
restoration

Sariyer street

Splashes of color on a drab
street

Overhangs and mosque

Central Sariyer

More central Sariyer:
can you spot the abandoned Catholic Italian nunnery?

Pretty fall flower

Focus on acorns

Last look at the flowers

Looking down towards the sea

A sort of bizarre-looking
abandoned Greek church

It is barricaded off as a
military zone, as you can see

Quaint sidestreet
Don't be deceived--these houses are quite expensive

Some old townhouses

No. 30, charmingly askew
I come to Sariyer every weekend, and this door number still hangs from one side.

Knotted wood

"Bu is yerinde grev var."
There had been a strike by the workers in this building and the whole place was locked down

Closeup of barred windows
Everything had been painted blue

A second floor overhang, typical
of Ottoman architecture. Note the evil eye dead center.

Some colorful old houses

An Armenian Catholic church

Not sure what this building is
but it's sure pretty

Beautiful mosaic walkway

One of many fishing trawls

The Sariyer iskele (ferry port)
and Anadolu Kavagi beyond, across the Bosphorous

A Sariyer yali
(wooden waterfront Ottoman home)

Beautiful woodwork

Another tall, skinny yali

People out for a stroll

More fishing boats

Gate over the entrance to a
Greek Orthodox church, which is still open for services

Church dogs--so cute

Advertising

Patriotism in Sariyer

Sariyer street scene

Sariyer weekend bazaar

Wider look at the bazaar
which also sells a lot of fish

A young hitchhiker?

Nope, just a bored kid waiting
with Mom and Dad at the bus stop.

View from Arnavutkoy at night

A look south towards the bridge

Why I moved out

Truer words were never garbled
Oh, Berrin.

Priya's Diwali party!
Compliments of Levent :)

Priya and Ida looking beautiful
Compliments of Levent :)

Nedster and me
Compliments of Levent :)

At Araf for Priya's birthday
Priya, Gregg, Ned, Sean, Renee

Gregg and Sean:
the troublesome twosome

Ned and me

Ida and Priya

The birthday girl and me :)

Sean and Renee on the dance
floor

Nihan and Jennie in the kitchen

Eating cereal from the "coffee
bowl", just to spite Jennie

The very picture of class ;)

The Amandalar

Ooh la la

Jennie and me @ Gizli Bahce

Erhan and me

Amandalar + Erhan

Jennie & Amandas

Hahahah stroller photo shoot

My overgrown baby

The start of the Cahide show...
for Ayse's birthday :)

The "ladies" emerge

Descending into the crowds

Birthday girl + Zeynep squared

Burcu, Suzan, Ayse

Birthday girl and me!!

The show continues...

Zeynep and me ;)

Ayse's sister Melis

Ayse with her profiterol

Unbelievable

Please observe the cone boobs
I probably should have explained earlier, but this is a gay show club. If you hadn't already figured that out.

Me and one of the lovely ladies!

Enrique Iglesias at Cahide ONE
WEEK LATER with the same dancers!!!
Ramadan 2007

Fishermen on the Galata bridge

Looking through the lattice

A look across the Golden Horn

Mosque at sunset

Way up the Halic

Yeni Camii at Ramadan

View from Eminonu
People are anxiously awaiting the evening call to prayer so they can eat

Suleymaniye by night
Everyone was picnicking in Sultanahmet

Picnicking family

Fruity soaps

The crowds and the stands

Osmanli macunu being made
A very very sweet lollipop-like thing available all over the place in Sultanahmet

All the flavors close-up

The full combo

Twisting on the flavors onebyone

Dre contemplating her dessert

Sizing up the challenge

Diving in!

Eyup during Ramadan

The hungry crowds gathered
before the evening call to prayer

Ramadan decorations

More Eyup
I never figured out what this line was for...

The Ottoman cemetaries
The flowered headstones were women's and reflect the number of children they had

Driving to Bebek

Renee in the back with me

Out the window in Bebek

Cihan's backyard
It's unbelievable that houses in Istanbul can have gardens this huge! They were growing everything back there

Kabak!
(Squash)

Caroline, Renee, Cihan
Cihan's family had us over for an iftar dinner

Erhan and Cihan's cousin

More kabak

Dead sunflower

Haha Rine

Me holding some delicious grapes

The dinner table spread

Everyone at dinner!
Cihan's cousin, Cihan's aunt, Cihan's sister, Cihan, me, Renee, Erhan

Little vapur at the harbor

People sitting at the iskele

View of the bridges from Kanlica

Erhan, Renee, Cihan, Carolin

Erhan and Carolin, being awkward

Renee and me at the cafe :)

Rumeli Hisari and Istanbul
skyline

Roommates!
Erhan and Renee

Rumeli Hisari and 4. Levent
What an amazing sight!
Bulgarian Border Run

A summer house in Ravda

Sunset and clothing pins

Renee and me with Mrs. Grigg
One of our lovely hosts

Our two gracious hosts
Phil and Jill Griggs, two adventurous Brits who had just taken the Orient Express and invited us into their home

Entering Nessebar
Renee and I spent the day in a nearby historic town called Nessebaar

The tourist train
Why do I feel like I'm constantly reading it...

View from the causeway
A thin strip of land connected the tiny Black Sea peninsula on which Nessebar sits to the mainland

The old windmill

Grey days look better in B&W

Nessebar stretching along thesea

Old city walls

One of the harbors

A proud barge

Huge gross jellyfish!!

Graffiti'd pier

The old man and the sea

Funny rocks at the pier

Renee sitting on the wall

Convinced I look 8 mo. preggars
Really only from the top

Graffiti'd stairs

Candid of Renee

Old Nessebar peeks over the top

Hmm.
Truer words were never graffitied.

Attempting to breach the walls

Entering the town
We decided our catapult wasn't really up to breaching capacity and chose the somewhat easier route.

The tourist mayhem that is
Nessebar

The first of many churches
For such a tiny area, Nessebar has something like 25 churches

Cobblestone streets are lined
with Ottoman houses

Ruins of another church

A side view of many arches

A nice sidestreet

Byzantine fountain

Greek inscription

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Little girl at the fountain

Complete view of a house

Nice sidestreet

Traditional Ottoman architecture
This is pretty classic, the way the wooden second floor juts out above the first and is supported by planks

Some houses were fairly large

Corner home

Renee and me with our street foo

Look, flesh of a pig!
Ham pizza. Good heathen.

One of the finer Canadian
tuxedos I've seen in a while. (Canadian tuxedo = denim on unmatching denim)

The plaza where we ate

Another church

Little Bulgarian girl dancers

Yet another church
Sorry, I don't know any names...very atypical of me.

This one was mostly ruins

GOOD.
Because you know I don't buy nothing with Chinese content in it.

Particularly neat house

Another site

Layers of history

Flowers at dusk

Weird flowers with beans

Bugs

A shipyard

Nessebar, in the Cyrillic
alphabet

Strange bagpiper

Harbor on the opposite side of
the peninsula

A seagull

Nice view of Nessebar

Closer up

More jellyfish!
The water is perfectly clear, so you can see them really well. And what weird tentacles!

They were everywhere

Another nice little street

Getting in my own pig meat
consumption before crossing the Turkish border

Sunset over the mainland

The causeway by night

Haha Bulgarian 'monopoly
money'--it was so tiny!
Istanbul Design Week 2007

IDW07, held on the Galata Bridge
A selection of the year's top industrial, fashion, environmental, and communication design products

At the entrance

A furniture exhibit

His and her lamps?
I don't even have the towels...this is an advanced couples' purchase.

Living the garden

Environmentalist graphic design

"Children and Zionism"
Many of these were incredibly political

Focus on human rights

More environmentalist design

Melis taking in the exhibit

Bad English, but powerful
nonetheless

Interesting amount of anti-
descrimination against prostitutes type design

The graphic design exhibit

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A minimalist hookah

The intricate bridge

Melis and me :)

Looking down the Golden Horn

Taking a break

A fashion exhibit

Some colorful plastic furniture

The Efes exhibit!
It's just amazing what people are doing with beer cans these days.

Efes knights!
Apparently part of a competition of what people could do with the cans

By far the best
Ottoman dude of some sort?

A shiny blue Efes ship...sailing
on a sea of beer perhaps?

Flying high on Efes

Rocking out with Efes

Guy crawling out of the can!!
This picture doesn't do it justice, but some amazing person created a mini person bursting out of an Efes can

The do-it-yourself table
Unfortunately Melis and I didn't grace the public with our Efes sculpture skillz

B-Turk
A clothing company with a cool concept

Some of the tees they make

The writing on the floor tells
one how to 'be Turkish'

Cute teaset for sale by B-Turk
So I guess they make other things too.

Another look at the historic
Galata Bridge

Great view over the bridge

Cool view through the bridge

Water and minarets and mosques,
oh my!

Light under the bridge

View from under the bridge

Some interesting lamps

The lower level of the bridge
The venue was really interesting in and of itself

Cool lamps over Melis, signing
up for an email list

Modern furniture showcases

The Golden Horn
The whole experience was really cool, since apart from the design products there, everything around you was engaging

Under the bridge

A colorful dress, exhibited for
its fabrics

Plates of colored glass made
the views a lot more interesting

The bowels of the old bridge

Looking upwards

The staircase between levels

We got the biggest kick out of
the "XXX" exhibit

Are words necessary?

"Humpty Dumpty." HAH.

"Made with love"--hicky tattoos!
Hahaha too good

"Still Life with Narcissism"

"Hold me here", I think this was
called

Streamers blowing in the wind
It was actually a very cool day

Hammocks over the water

People under the bridge

Some more exhibits under the
bridge

Some glowing blocks strewn
about

Dangling wine bottle openers

Heading out
So Long Sweet Summer

Gate to Yildiz Park

Maria and me picnicking

Matthew and Katharine

Maria and Yifei

The rest of the picnic crowd

Baclava combo!!
This place is the most famous baklavaci in Istanbul--the chocolate is best!

Sabanci Muzesi
The Sabanci Museum was having Ottoman carpet, Daghestani rug and Ottoman calligraphy exhibits

Umbrella pines
Reminiscent of Italy, no?

Some of the Daghestani rugs

All hand-crafted and beautiful

Part of the exhibit

One cool rug

Tiny tiny miniatured koran

View from the museum cafe

The whole class minus Sean
Me, Josh, Sarah, Neslihan, Maria, Paul, Will, Johanna, Omar, Caroline

Caroline's glamour shot

Part of the park surrounding the
museum

Another class shot

Statues on the museum grounds

Out to balik ekmek

Will and me

Will and me again

View from the top of the
engineering building

The castle and second bridge

The arts and sciences building
Where I spent the majority of my life this summer, with cats jumping through the windows and all

The first bridge from afar

Bogazici central campus

Faculty of Arts and Sciences
Stairs and pink pong table below

Kanyon shopping mall

An architectural feat

Sarah killing the awful wine

Sarah, Josh, James
Out in Tunel

Sarah and Josh

Sisters!
Dana was visiting Sasha from Germany

Besiktas street

Balik pazari

Josh playing photographer

Balik pazari, or fish market

Friuts and vegetables for sale

Couple bargining

Besiktas waterfront cannon

Maritime emblem

Barbarossa's grave
The world-famous Mediterranean pirate, 'Red Beard'. Josh is an Ottoman history dork and dragged us here.

Josh, Maria and me

Engraved cannon

Besiktas waterfront

Besiktas iskele (ferry station)

Besiktas waterfront

Ferry being boarded

Girl jumping in place

Besiktas ferry churning away

Wave hitting the iskele

Taksim protest

Environmental protesters

View from my potential apt.
Suckazzz

Josh and me out in Taksim

One of the Taksim inekler

Class love
Will, Johann, me, Josh, Paul

Typical Kennedy Lodge scene
Begging cat at lunch table

Cows in front of Kanyon mall

More Kanyon cows

Closeup of camel cow

Michael Jordan cow

Cow behind bars

American Indian cow?

En route to the concert

Zeynep and Ayse

Sarah and me

Sarah and Ayse

All the Turks and Sarah

Turkish hipsters var!

Mor ve Otesi

Mor ve Otesi again

The Good, The Bad and The Queen

Karaoke after the concert

Sarah, Zeynep, Ayse, Ali

Hahaha Ali and Sarah

Ah--the lonely canoe...
LOVE the cheesy backgrounds

Ayse going crazy on the
tambourine--where did this come from?? Haha

Haha and where did it go?
With this instrument the good times never stopped

Sarah giving that 'come hither'
look she's so famous for

Sarah, Ali, Zeynep, Ayse

Yavuz

The damage

Zeynep and Ayse

Ayse and me

Yavuz, Sarah and...me?

Haha boys crooning
Can, Ali, Yavuz

One of the Nisantasi cows
Of course it would be a rich one

Another cow

Band-aid cow

Nationalist graffiti

"How happy I am to say I am a
Turk"

Takin care of bizznass

Yep.

The view from my apartment

Istanbul Modern Art Mseum

Maria and me at the museum
balcony

Maria and me at the museum

Sunset over the Golden Horn

Sunset 2

Vertical sunset

Further up the Golden Horn

Dolmabahce Palace entrance

Clocktower closeup

Closer up

Gates to Dolmabahce

Indication of the opulence
within

The front gate

Soldiers marching through

A tender moment?
Hardly. Since one can't move, the other is wiping the sweat off his brow.

Path to the selamlik
The official part of the palace

Central fountain

The property was bordered by the
Bosphorous

One of several lion statues on
the grounds

Fuller view of the selamlik

Facade, looking west

Pretty garden and Bosphorous

Gate to the strait
Wouldn't it be nice to just jet off on a boat from here?

East side of the selamlik

Imagine if this were home

One of the more decadently
decorated palaces I've seen, Dolmabahce was built in the 19th century as part of the Ottomans' effort to Europeanize

Detail on stairs

Guard on patrol by the water

View of the Golden Horn

Everyone was doing it
It's that new pink footie trend you've seen in magazines but been afraid to try for fear of being overly trendy

So I did too
So stylish, so...sanitary

Chandelier in the entrance hall

Hamam ceiling

Room in the sultan's hamam

Decorative hamam ceiling

View from the hamam
This WAS centered until Shutterfly got its hands on it.

Last hamam ceiling

View out a corridor window

Guard by the water

The Bosphorous was at their
fingertips

Painting-lined corridor

More unbelievable decadence

Decorative domed ceiling

Some gaudy furniture

The grand hall

Complete view of the dome

"Ottoman" boat on the Bosphorous
A tourist thing, but still pretty cool-looking

Garden clock

Newlyweds
Taking wedding photos on the Dolmabahce grounds

Colorful roses

Gardens with Bosphorous beyond
Now I realize I essentially took the same picture over and over again, but it was just so pretty!

Golden Horn thru the gates

The obstructed Asian side
You would normally be able to see except for these boats. Interestingly, they are digging a tunnel under the strait.

Closer look at the Golden Horn
The Ottomans had themselves some nice real estate, didn't they?

Soldiers in formation

Soldier pileup
That's probably not what it's actually called

The changing of the guard

Marching out the gates
With me right behind them

Turkish flags flying high

Ikea cow!! So cute

Barcode cow

Turkish airlines cow
In retrospect, I probably should have created a whole separate album for these...

The view from Zoe's terrace

Sparklers!

Mertol and Can @ Zoe

Can, me, Priya

We're supposed to be dancing

Boys and me

Me and Priya

Can, Priya and me at Zoe

I'm sure Mertol was loving it

Cute Priya

Dancing at Reina

Sarah's last night :(
Murat, Swedish chick, Enver Pasa, Sarah

"Coffee delight"
Nisantasi cow--so cute

Music street in Tunel

Music shop and some graffiti

Plethora of instruments for sale

Sazs and ouds and nes, oh my!
The saz (as well as the oud; the ne is Central Asian) is a typical instrument in traditional Turkish music

Electric guitars in another stor

Snake carved into the sidewalk
Right next to the Galata Tower; this was the first time I had ever noticed it, though it appeared to be very old

Nice caybahcesi under the tower
This caybahcesi (chai-bah-che-see), or tea garden, was a nice shady respite from the hot weather

Grapes growing above

The tower through the vines

Another nice grapy view

The beach at Sile (shee-lay)
Renee and I took a daytrip up to one of the Black Sea beaches, actually still inside the city limits of Istanbul

Sean and me at Araf

Priya and Greg
A Day in Eyup

The vapur iskelesi on the
Golden Horn--where we had to convince a little man to take us across to the big boat iskele on the other side

I rather like this one

Oh captain my captain
In his bright blue puttering boat of dubious durability

James and Sima
With the Galata bridge in the background

What a regal captain

Sima and her video camera

Children swimming in the
Golden Horn

Kid taking the plunge

Parked submarine

Cemetary and Pierre Loti house
The house is yellowish and pretty much dead center; the cemetary is the whole hillside

Looking back down the Golden Hor
Before all the urban density it must have been quite beautiful

Small mosque in Eyup

Walking around Eyup

A market street

Korans for sale
This is one of the holiest and most religiously conservative places in Istanbul

More religious stuff for sale
I did some pretty big spending here, I'm not gonna lie.

Walking between the cemetaries
There were many acres of cemetaries in this area, many dating back to Ottoman times

Ottoman Muslim headstones

More headstones

Cat amongst the tombs

Entrance to the moque

Visitors to the tomb of
Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, the standard bearer of Muhammed

Beautiful Iznik tiles

One of the lamps

What can I say
I like things that dangle from the ceiling.

The line to get into the tomb

Pious Sima, jerky James ;)

The center of the courtyard

Two circumcised boys
In Turkey when boys go through their circumcision ceremonies (5-7 yrs old) they dress like princes for the day

Larger view of the courtyard

Arcades around the courtyard

Eyup Sultan Camii

Nicely patterned stone window

En route to Miniaturk
Sima and me

Sima and me again

Me. Like my 1stanbul shirt?

We finally made it!!
(There had been some doubt expressed that we would ever actually reach our destination, and in that 40 degree heat...)

Miniaturk, in all it's glory

Haha ''Dad!!''
James being a cheesy dad with the video camera

Looking longingly towardsAtaturk

Safranbolu = good

Sweet Greek temple
Not in existence any more...probably half of it in London

Even sweeter temple
Also not around anymore

The Roman theater at Aspendos
From this angle it ALMOST looks for real, eh?

Cappadocia...we've been there!

The disproportionate bridge

Crossing the mini Bosphorous on
the mini bridge

James, still being embarassing

MiniIstanbul and Eyup houses
It's a pretty poor part of town

Ataturk airport...who knew it
was so close!

Running to catch my miniflight

The miniHagina so miniFina

Hahaha the newspaper hat people

A funeral way up there

We three at Pierre Loti cafe
This author lived up here in the 19th century, when the view of Byzantine and Ottoman old cities must have been amazing

Sunset over the Golden Horn

The old city walls

A part of the Ottoman complex

The happy couple

Some of the graves on the hill
A good Muslim grave is open to the sky

The moon over the mosque

Back to Istanbul:
The Suleymaniye by night

Another look at Eminonu
Haydi Denize

Sunset over the salt lake
Turkey's salt lake was actually an incredibly cool and eerie sight to see

This one goes out to the Alanyli
Because life is just better in Kebapistan, a blessed country where I eventually plan on making my home

A big old Turkish breakfast
and Tembel Tuzcu over there on the swing ;)

Aww brothers:
Alper and Mete

Pretty Mediterranean flower

I've been missing these

Boats down at the beach

The vacation community

The cabana-filled beach

I loved the shadows these made

People on the dock

The wooden umbrellas

Tembel Tuzcu, at it again

Pensive Alper

Last one, I promise!

Walking back home
after a long, hard day of beach bumming

Mete and me

Mmm dinner awaited us

Mete's grandmother cooking

Mr. Tuzcu at the grill

Mete's grandpa and dad

The table getting full already

As Alper so aptly said,
May the force be with me.

Mediterranean sunset

Tuzcu men

Mete and me

Family photo op

Take 2
ARIT Black Sea Boat Trip

Just another day on the Bogaz
That was the second boat of people on our trip

Rumeli Hisari up close and
personal

Pensive Matt

The castle from further away

Bebek, our classy hood

Matt, Sasha, Caroline

Looking back at Bebek

An old yali under the bridge

People below deck

The second bridge
I must have 35 million pictures of this by now

Houses right on the water

A nationalistic stretch of coast

One of the koys along the Bogaz

Yep, they're swimming in the
Bosphorous--something I am still too sketched out to do.

Beautiful wooden house

Another old yali

My favorite!!
Once I scrape together some serious YTLs this baby will be mine.

Another gorgeous waterfront yali

Sort of Venetian but not

Ornate architecture

How I would love to pull up here
in my privately captained boat every day

This turned into quite a series

All hands on deck
Katharine, Ilyana, Matt, Sasha, Caroline, me

Dana and Carrie

Anchored sailboat

Aww sisters
Dana was visiting Sasha, my roommate

Katharine and me

Jetting towards our first stop

Pulling into Anadolu Kavagi
A small town at the mouth of the Black Sea with a Genoese castle and great fish restaurants

Houses built out over the water

Ned and his friend Jonah

The iskele
a.k.a. ferry dock

A man weaving fish nets
Judging by the size of the piles of string next to me, he had a long day ahead of him

Colorful netting

Men cleaning the fresh fish

Pretty backstreet flower

Dilapidated houses

Cat jumping out of a boat

Netting flowing out of the boat

Central Anadolu Kavagi
It's a Fenerbahce nation, apparently; note the bust of Ataturk on the right

Champs about to take the plunge
Will, Sasha, Katie and Matt before swimming across the Bosphorous from Asia to Europe

The other boat
Note Tony Greenwood in his purple shimmys at the bow

Our boat (a.k.a. the cooler one)

Setting off to Europe

The castle from below
Its occupants used to control traffic from the Black Sea into the Bosphorous with a chain net to the European side

The competition was fierce

The onlookers

The mouth of the Black Sea

The group started to spread out

Another look back at the castle

Some resorted to backstroke

The small peninsula

The home stretch

Sasha, Matt and Katie
With triumphant fists raised

Matthew and Chase

Almost there

Back to the boat

Resting after the swim

To lunch after a big swim
We ate in another town right on the lip of the Black Sea and ate delicious meze and fish

Jumping off the boat
Note Caroline, who, having forgotten her own swim suit bottoms, is hilariously clad in Matt's boxer briefs.

The crowd on the deck

Headed back home
The second bridge and profile of Rumeli Hisari are in the distance

Sasha and Dana

Ned and company

Girls on deck

Chris and Will

Back to Bebek

The boat's protective nazar
Cappadocian Capers

Sarah and me on the plane

Barf bagging...
It's the new brown bagging.

James, plastic bagging
Oh the lengths we went to to consume Efes on the flight

On the dolmus to the hostel

Slap happy after a long day of
travel

Rock-hewn doorway

Goreme down below
The town where we were staying, which has access to many of the region's best sights

That would be moi

James
This one's for mom

James and Metin

Maria and me

The whole gaggle
Diana, Baylor, Maria, Chris, James, Sarah, Sasha, me, Metin

View into Love Valley

Rippled rock formations

Conquering the world?

Sarah and me
I like this one :)

Daredevils

James, Sarah and me

Diana and her giganto camera

Hiking off into the valley

Cappadocia has many valleys
through which you can hike, usually named for their rock formations and what they resemble

Hopping down the narrow pass
I like to call it the "side-to-side"

Lots of fairy chimneys
Or so they're called

I'll give you one guess as to
why this is called Love Valley

Panorama of the valley

Chimneys and plateau beyond

Two funny rock formations
How do those things not fall over?

Still hiking down into the valle

Closeup of fairy chimneys

A lone cyclist

One can't help but be lude

James getting a running start

Sasha clinging on for dear life

Trooping towards the funny rocks

Yep. It was that big.

The major traffic: tractors.

A must-to-see in the Turkey:
The UFO Museum. Wtf?

Sarah, equally flabbergasted

Drying apricots

The Goreme Acik Hava Muzesi,
or Open Air Museum. It's basically a central area of particularly dense and high-quality churches and dwellings.

Entrance to a cave church

Pantokrator from the central dom

Another colorful fresco
Disappointingly, the frescoes had been destroyed and were very recently repainted

Props to Diana and her huge
camera for these great indoor flashless shots

Looking outward from one of the
rooms in the Open Air Museum

Another church interior
(again, thanks Diana)

Triple apse church's Mary fresco
(Diana's photo)

Frescoed barrel vault
(Diana's photo)

Another look out at the museum
from one of the many caves you can clamber around in

Looking up at the hand-carved
rock

Look out a church window

High-up church

Iconoclasm at its best
Most of the frescoes had the faces scratched off

Another eerie fresco
Beautifully captured by Diana

A look across the valley

Close up of the caves

Another chunk of caves

Sarah and me from the opposite
side of the complex

Diana in one of the many tiny
passageways

Waiting on the slow pokes
Sarah, James, Diana, Baylor

Enticing, isn't it?
There was apparently a camel that chilled out by the fairy chimneys, but we did not get to indulge.

The church just outside the Open
Air museum

Closeup on frescoed arches

Catacombs below

Funny fairy chimney

One of many spectacular views

And you thought pots didn't grow
on trees (props to Sasha for the photo)

The pottery workshop
Cappadocia is known since ancient times for being a center of pottery-making

A cornucopia of pots

They even seep out of the walls

One of the potters at work

He was incredibly talented


Close up on his hands
(Diana)

The store inside

Our ride back to town...
in a 1970 Scout, driven by a Greek man who insisted on cramming the 9 of us into the back--good times!

James up front, giving the ok

The rest of us in the back
Oh, to be young.

Goreme town
It was very touristy as a whole, lined with lots of stores and restaurants

"Ottoman Collectibles"

Dyes and threads for rug weaving

Buckets of dye

Yarn drying on the wall

Dying the thread
They used natural dyes

One of the weavers at work

Sasha learning to weave
This was a pretty amazing thing to stumble upon

This has to be pretty hard work

Pushing the thread down

Sasha and her new friend
Apparently it takes 3 months to produce one of these huge kilims

Where the yarn was stored

Hanging bundles

A huge variety of colors

I was pretty wowed by this place
as you can tell

Back to the hostel for a rest

Sasha offering up the watermelon
Chris is a taker

Taking a bite

Sarah looking devilish

Diana in the havuz
Havuz means pool, fyi.

Metin, Maria, James

Chris, pre-tragedy

Off for an evening stroll in
Rose Valley. You can see how soft this volcanic rock is, since they just nailed that sign to it.

A different type of formations

Closeup of fairy chimney

Following our trusty guide

It was a nice path, and cooler
by evening.

Nice dusk panorama

I liked those rippling rocks

Diana's photo of them

The sun was setting

But where were we headed?

Off the beaten path, more caves
(Sasha's photo)

Up into a fairy chimney

The entry floor of the cave we
climbed into (Diana's)

Metin hoisting himself up
(Sasha's)

Me, taking a picture from the
interior

The gorgeous view outside

Chris and Ali, our guide
They were more precariously perched than they look, on a narrow rock with huge drops to both sides, just outside the cav

We all made it up to the top!

Dusk panorama
Note the strange peak in the background, called Uc Hisari

And onwards we went

The pink rocks Rose Valley takes
its name from

Hiking to a good viewpoint

Chris, Maria, Metin
(Sasha's)

Rose Valley at sunset

Good ol Sash

The valley below

Real World Cappadocia
9 people living together in a hostel...

James

Silhouettes
Diana and James

More silhouettes
Sasha, Diana, James

James and me

Another one for mom

Even more Real World-esque

Sarah's sweet sneaks

Sasha, Maria, me, Sarah

Cappadocian sunset
(Sarah's photo)...what can I say, I compile the best ;)

Last light over the rocks

Dusky Cappadocia
We opted to head out then, rather than be stranded in this valley by dark

A local vineyard
Cappadocia is also famous for its wine

Anatolian style dinner
I had testi kebap, which comes in a pot that you break open with a hammer! Pretty awesome.

On the dolmus for the day
Everyone is looking miraculously chipper

Tourist trap stop #1
The lamps were nice, though

Flowers growing over the valley

Beautiful white ones

More pink ones

Haha the tourist picture
I have no idea what's going on with my hair here, but it's truly something to behold.

Evil eyes grow on trees too!

Diana's photo, which I liked mor

The small town where we first
stopped to visit Derinkuyu ('deep well', literally) underground city, which is 8 stories deep

Everyone down on the first floor
(Sasha's photo)

One of the many passageways
It is amazing to know that all of this was once solid rock and was handcarved starting in 2000 BC

James, demonstrating the wall's
actual former use: crucifixions

Sarah glamorously entering a
lower floor with Maria in tow

Baylor below

In the ancient classroom

More climbing around
This place is a lot more well-lit today than it was in 200 AD...imagine being down there with no light! (Sasha's photo)

Onto the next adventure
with our awkward guide leading us down into another valley, from which we would emerge full of bacteria

The Ihlara Valley
(Sasha's photo)

More tromping along
This time a lot more anxiously, as it was 1:30 PM with no lunch yet and a 3 km walk ahead

A little boy with his donkey
(Sasha's)

Sarah petting the donkey

The tree-lined path next to a
stream

This one goes in the "you know
you're in Turkey when..." series

Cute puppy at lunch!
(Sasha's photo)

The mutant turkaluck that tried
to kill us...er, maybe just walked towards our table, but that was enough for me!

A town in the valley

Selimi Monastery
Our third stop on the trip

A lecture in the kervansaray
Traders en route from the Middle East to Europe would stop and lodge here

Closer look at the monastery

The opposite side of the complex

Hiking up to the cave churches

Almost there

Another part of the complex

Asian tourists
Omnipresent on any good trip

Inside one of the rooms

Arches upon arches
Sasha's photo

Sasha caught me staring out the
window

A church in the monastery
(Diana's photo)

A covered staircase

Church entrances

Maria headed in

Another impressive architectural
feat

Interesting imagery

What can I say...another cave

The rocks and village below
It's hard to tell, but in the center there is an old rock building

View of the town from a window

Sasha descending some stairs

Sasha and James below

The monastery from a far side

Sasha with arms wide open

Chris with all the little childr
en; it was really cute--he was letting the kids listen to his ipod

Baylor

Everyone hiking back down

Another delicious dinner

Pouring the home made wine

A cute puppy followed us home!

Sad when its mom left it
Also sad that it was 1 AM and we had to get up at 4...
Adalar Gezisi

Arnavutkoy in the morning

Ned and Matt

One of the boats

Boarding the fair Kumsal

Josh and me

The crowd on the boat
A.k.a. the expat section

Maria

Arnavutkoy from the water

The beautiful yalis

Obligatory flag shot

Look back at the bridge

Headed for the first bridge

Beylerbey Sarayi
Right under the first bridge on the Asian side

The first Bosphorous bridge
One of the longest suspension bridges in the world

European side

Oratakoy and a huge tanker
Gotta love those Russians

Ortakoy and downtown beyond

The illustrious Ciragan Palace
The ritziest hotel in Istanbul

Maria and the blue blue sea

Karakoy and the Galata tower

All the cruise boats lined up
Check out the far right one that's bigger than most of the buildings

One of the hundreds of ferries

Huge ship coming through
Typical Bosphorous traffic

Topkapi sarayi from the water
The early, very important Istanbul Ottoman palace

Golden Horn shot
Topkapi and the mosques

Haghia Sophia peeking through

Haghia Sophia and Blue Mosque

Protective evil eye
You'll see one on the bow of every ship

Blue Mosque

John Freely and company
John Freely, our guide, is an acclaimed historian

On the first island, Sivriada
This uninhabited island was completely underwhelming

Kristin taking the plunge

Entering Hebeliada's port
That big building is the naval highschool

The only traffic on Hebeliada

The only horsepower around
These animals were in terrible health :/

One of the carriages
For about 15 YTL you could ride up to the monastery or around town

A nice old Ottoman house

The house's grounds

Growing grapes!

Guy leading 6 horses around

Ataturk statue at the monastery

The monk giving us our tour

The crowd of us

The Black Madonna

Funny things that fall off trees

Matt, Mary and me

Caroline and Matt

The garden and the Marmara

Walking out of the grounds

The Redford men and me
Priceless! How jealous are the Alanyalilar now??

Street signs

Typical street scene
Carriages racing around the corners

Another Hebeliada street

Pretty balcony

Many houses were in bad repair

Ismet Inonu's house
This guy was the right-hand man of Ataturk and also his successor

Pretty flowers

Nice decoration

Political propaganda everywhere
Elections are in less than a week and this stuff hangs over every street in the city

MHP, a left-wing party

AK Partisi flags
This is the party currently in power

The whole street was covered
Once one person put theirs up, everyone else has to too

Another propaganda shot
The biggest ones are AK, MHP and CHP it seems

View down to the Marmara

Another old wooden house

Lonely street and passerby

Dilapidated house

Back to Arnavutkoy
Bodrum: Jetset Weekend

The Mediterranean
Right where I left it ;)

Nice view through a house

A house in Ali's complex

Ali's house

The deck,
where we wiled our days away

Some pretty flowers

A butterfly I stumbled upon

Close up
Stupid shutterfly cuts off my PICTURES

Take 3 with white wall

Take 4

The open air living room

A colorful sunset

Some Turkish coffee

Ali and Kerim

Ship Ahoy!
The trendiest bar/club in Bodrum

Kerim and Mustafa

Ali, Kerim, Mustafa

Mustafa and me
A good movie title, maybe a Lion King sequel or a mustachioed mafia drama.

Ali, me, Kerim

Table service

Kerim, Mustafa and me

Another round of shots
From the skill visible in this photo, probably not the best idea

Whoops.

Ali and Kerim
Friends from Virginia Tech

Another nice view
The houses in the complex were all whitewashed, reminiscient of the Greek islands

More pretty beach

Wildflower

Funny thick grass

View of Cennetkoy

Road to nowhere

Kerim and Mustafa playing tavla
Tavla = backgammon, a popular traditional game that everyone plays

The tavla board

Ali, Mustafa, Kerim

Ship Ahoy again
A Georgetown grad at the bar...does that make me a Ship Ahoya?

Ali and Kerim

Other end of the table

Kerim, Mustafa and me

Ali, Mustafa, Kerim

Asli and Ali

Ali and friend

Amazing Turkish breakfast
Bread, jam, menemen (a scrambled egg/tomato/pepper/etc. dish), tea, cheeses, salami, tomatoes, cucumbers...paradise

Sunbathing on the deck

Spotted on the way back

A last sunset

I'm gonna miss that

My silhouette

To Golturkbuku for dinner

Adorable restaurant
Located in a cove off the sea, this restaurant was really cute. Unfortunately I had to leave early to catch my flight!

Another shot of the restaurant
Istanbul: Season 2007

My walk to school...
Not bad, huh?

The Arts and Sciences Faculty
Where I have most of my classes

Main campus quad

The Kennedy Lodge
It has a restaurant, tea garden, Bosphorus viewing area, etc.

Closeup of the Kennedy Lodge

Rumeli Hisari from campus

Another view from campus
Looking out over the Rumeli castle and second Bosphorus bridge

The Aya Sofya by evening

The Blue Mosque

Seeing Ryan and Jackie!
Two of my Georgetown friends visited Istanbul during the time I arrived, so we had a short time to catch up.

The view from their hostel

360 in Taksim

Maria and me @ 360

You know you're in Sultanahmet
when...

Blue Mosque by day
(also called Sultanahmet Camii)

Walking in


Fountain in the courtyard

In our pious Sunday's best
And no, I do not own that blue piece of cloth; it was forced upon me because my skirt was not long enough.

Josh, Maria and me inside

Domes

Gates to Topkapi Sarayi
The first Ottoman palace in Sultanahmet

Grounds before interior gates
We were on a mission and didn't actually go in this time

Cemetary at Kucuk Aya Sofya
Where we didn't enter because of the extortionate dude insidse

Dome of Mehmet Sokulu Pasa Camii

Mihrab and minbar
Inside the Sultan Mehmet Sokulu Pasa Camii

Nice Iznik tiling

Half domes and squinches, oh my!

A dark corner

Maria and me
Once again, dressed quite dapperly if I may say so myself--mosquewear is so in right now.

Maria and Yifei
@ the nargile place in Tophane

Sasha, me, Matthew

Sean, Yochai, Josh

Metin, Josh, Yochai, Sasha

Haha Josh
Going a little crazy with the glow sticks

Matthew and me

Metin and Yochai
The clubbiest boys I have ever met

Maria and me

Sasha and Sean

Matthew and me, cooling off

Josh, Sasha, Sean, Bernie

At the 'gypsy bar'
Yochai, Maria, me, Sarah, Sasha

The 'gypsy band'

Maria and me

My fave Starbucks in the world

Nice evening

Twilight Bebek Bosphorus

The restaurant where we ate

Arnavutkoy by night

A misir (corn) seller

View from Karakoy tram stop

Political propaganda
These flags are hanging in the streets everywhere

Out in Taksim
Me, James, Sasha, Metin

Metin and Enver Pasa

WOW James

Dancing at Shiva

Roomies!
Sasha and me

Roommate day trip
To a really really cool photography festival

Sketchy venue #1
The "tobacco depot," which is possibly the most obscure place in the entire city.

Inside the venue

Another shot of the gallery

One of our faves
Can you see the unsuspecting husband pulling up while the naked guy jumps out the left side?

Portraits upstairs

How awkward do we look

Aha--one might think this trash
And it is. However, as we learned from the exhibit, it is so much more...

The 'neighborhood'
DSCN2388.JPG 2007-06-30

More evidence from exhibit

Token photo

Inside the small exhibit

Sketchy venue #2
We thought it couldn't get worse...

Yeah man

Sasha and her fave

Galata tower peeping through

Vendors around the tower

Full shot of Galata kulesi

Top of the tower
Which I visited during study abroad orientation; it gives a great view of the Golden Horn

Dates of construction

Area around the tower

Kabob at Gunaydin
And this was when we were 75 done with it...just imagine. It was a meat lover's fantasy!

Ali and me at Gunaydin

Ali and friends
Commencement 2007

So true
Pre-commencement

Close up

Healy tower, decked out

Close up of Healy

Crowd filtering in for graduatio

The crowd

The college graduate!

Blair and me

Close up of Blair and me

The parents and me

Cheesy photo op

My BSFS hood

Yet another glamour shot
In my flattering moumou of a gown

White-Gravenor and the crowds

Healy and John Carroll

Parents and me in front of Healy

Blair and me by John Carroll

Parents and me by Healy

Mom and me

Dad and me

Mones and me

Mones and the sis

Girls at the Magills

Another shot plus balloons

The delicious cake

It had all of our names

Molly is a cake cutting expert

Getting stage fright

Margaret helping out

Dining room crowd

Jessie and me

Magill and Marrer, wives 4eva

People eating outside

Sitting room crowd

Katie, Emily, Laura, me, Amanda

More girls
Jessie, Laura, me, Virg, Amanda, Molls

An intimate moment
Virginia and Katie

Another sitting room shot

Lauren and me at Tombs

Aerin, Allison and me

Jen, her sister and me

Chuckles and me

Allison hoarding the pitcher
Senior Week

Virg and me at RnR

Monique up on stage

Awkward white people dancing

Csaba (the judge) and me
At the Leo's "What I REALLY want to be when I grow up" party. Clearly i'm a southern belle.

The two judges

Jill and Mandy
Flight attendant and country club wife.

Andy and me
Tombs waiter

Brodie and me
Ummm..hick?

Pregnant Monique

King Chris and me

Moni and Charlie

Moni and me

Danny and me

Jessie, Molly and me
Tennis pro/mom, beach bum

Ryan and Jackie

Jules and me at the picnic

Aerin and me outside

Girls at the table

Waiting for barbecue

Ridiculous Whitney

Playground time


Finally caught her

Aerin and Moni, being funny

There we go

Arvand and me

Mones and me in the wine line

Alanya girls
Cailin, Monique, Aerin and me

Looking badass

Elias and Julia

Picture time before Convocation

Pre-Convocation!
Margaret and me, ready to be convocated

The line of us

Stretching back through SWQ

Flirtini @ Bangkok Joe's

Delicious mango mojito

The parents + Blair at Nick's

Virg and me at Senior Ball

Cailin and me

Monique and me

The Georgetown section
Inside Union Station

Erica, Aerin and me

The Capitol room

Closeup of capitol
Senior Spring

Baxie on the porch

The gracious host
And by gracious, I mean free-flowing Zelco. Ryan and me.

Eurotrash party!
Romina, me, Cailin

The (euro)trashy boys

Eurotrash lives on...
Brodie, Andy, me, Laura, Jayne

Most post-eurotrash
Brodie, me, Andy, Erin

This was a veritable photo shoot
Erin, me, Ryan, Andy

Aww
Tori, Ryan, Julia, me, Cailin

What a RANDOM night

Aerin the model

Fun on Amanda's couch
Aerin, Moni, me

Enter Pat, bearing gifts

Sunny O St.

Georgetown townhouses

Pretty leaves

Old Town Alexandria
I went to work at the Old Town Paper Source for a day

King Street

Beautiful Healy in spring

Another Healy shot

Colorful tulips

Tulips and towers

Copley lawn

White-Gravenor

Down on M St.

A look down the canal

Crowd watching the regatta

Rowers by GW Bridge

A look back at Georgetown

Statue on Potomac bridge

Lincoln Memorial, obvi

Reflecting pool and Washington

Getting close to the Washington

Getting close to the Washington

WWII Memorial

Tourists at the monument

The other half

The obligatory state shot
What can I say? I was out on a run--I can't look glamorous ALL the time.

Look back at the Lincoln

Senior BBQ
Leavey Esplanade

Lots of seniors

Girls at the BBQ
Virg, Jessie, Meredith, Charlotte, Molly, me

More girls
Virginia, Jessie, Meredith, Charlotte, Laura, me, Molly

Cailin and me

Mandy and me

Meredith, me, Jessie, Char, Moll

Out at the waterfront
Jessie, Emily, Virg, Molly, me

Jen, Emily, Virg, Jessie, me

Neyla!
Arv, me, Robbie

Arv, Charlie, me

Charlie, me, martini, Robbie

It's all about the decorations

Ridic Arvand

Ass shot

Moni's surprise!

Still surprised

Getting bombarded at the door

Arvand and Alana

THE RASTURBATION
That Pat, always rasturbating.

Post-surprise glee

Nalani bringing out the cake

Arvand and Moni

Awww :)

Alanyalilar
Aer, Pat, Moni, me

Haha classic facial expression

Andale!
Hahah

Pat and me

Hahaha funniest picture ever
This dredges up thoughts of proud future parents crossing the border

Cait and me @ Nick's

Stuart and me

Caitlin, Stuart and me
Waterfront bliss

Cait and Stuart silhouettes

My flower arrangement

Poor crying Cailin
The Alanyalilar last supper @ Alana's

Kitchen assembly line

Boys in the backyard

Arvand chopping

Pat, Cailin, Moni, me, Alana

Hahah

Boys doing what they do best...
Watching other people work.

Alanya girls
Alana, me, Cailin, Monique

Slightly obscene Arvand

Pat, Charlie, Arvand

Wielding spatulas

Sofia Coppola time

Cailin and me, champagne time

What was that?

Canned champagne: a study

Cailin, Arvand, Charlie, Alana

HOT

??

Some kofte?

The loving relationship
I.e. Monique nagging Patrick

There we go

Alana's cake!

The gracious hostess

Hahah

Elegant

Pat, Cailin, Alana

Me, post like 5 spills

The wreckage
Needless to say, it didn't stop me

Yay Arvie

Hahah I have no idea
He's probably commenting on her calves

Alana, Charlie, Monique, Pat

Alana triple-fisting

Cailin, Arvand, me

Plus tongue

Monique + boys in blue

Whirling dervishes?

Arvand, Cailin, Alana, Luciana

Tardy Aerin and Pat

Luciana and Pat

Dancing with Moni

Alana and Charlie

Alana and Aerin

Monique and Alana dancing
Dervishes again?

Major double fisting

Aer bear

Moni and me discuss fatty drinks

Charlie and me

Ciggy time

So hot right now
The Foxfields

Waiting anxiously for the bus
@ 8 AM

Margaret in good form

Moni and me on the bus

Katie and Margaret

Much better

Monique and me again

The bagel, Laura and Jessie

Jenn and Katie

Molly and Charlotte

Homeless form
This cost 3.99 and was a bottle of bright red alcohol of some variety. Margaret resembled a homeless man, in a good way.

Popping the champagne

Classy drinks

Monique and I out and about

Me at Aerin's plot

Aerin and Miriam

Allison, me, Monique, Aerin

Westminster reunion!
Ross Baird and me

Gettin a little woozy

TImmy, me and some guy

Timmy and me

The crowds at Foxfields

More plots

Mounted horseman

Warming up for the race

And they're off!

Me and the race

Horses galloping by

Closeup of the racers

More horsies

Taking the fence


This cowboy dude was smart
He predicted the #1 and 2 horses of every race, dead on

Monique, Margaret Molly

Charlotte, Laura, Jessie, Jenn

Everyone napping
Monique and Katie in the front

Preparing to go wander
Molly, Charlotte, me, Jessie

The Georgetown plot

The truck bed, where it's at

Caitlin and me

The busride back
Diplomatic Ball 2007

Blair and me, all dressed up

Virginia and Jessie, in the pose

SFS girls: Margaret, Katie, me

Julia and me, dress twins

Andy and Julia

Andy and me

Arvand in Valentino...and me

Roommates!

Erin and me

Caitlin and me

Robby and Catherine

Robby and me

Mmm chocolate strawberries

Blair and me at the table

Blair and me again

Mones and me

The gorgeous interior
of the National Building Museum

Cailin and me

Charlotte and me

Lots of girls
Charlotte, Virginia, me, Jenn, Jessie, Laura

Another interior shot

The fountain inside
Peru: Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu!

Cusqueno architecture and sky

Lady with a llama

I got taken in--this cost me

Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus
On the Plaza de Armas

One of the cathedral belltowers

View across central Cusco

Church belltowers

Arvand and Aerin in the plaza

View through the arches

Avenida del Sol

Plaza through arches

Street lining Plaza de Armas

Typical wooden balcony

Church from the ground

La Catedral
Also on the plaza, caddy corner to the church

Plaza avenue

Balconies and arches

The church from across the Plaza

Fountain in the plaza

Creatures underneath

Plaza de Armas panorama

Yet another plaza shot

Another view from the plaza

Walking from plaza to plaza

Small sidestreet

La Plaza San Francisco

Another shot of the church

Walking up to San Blas

Original Incan walls!
It's pretty fascinating; Cusco was an Incan city, and the Spanish simply reused their walls to build their own buildings

More Incan walls
Their stonework was really amazing--no cement of any kind was used

The twelve-sided stone
This is very famous for some reason

Walking down to the Plaza

Another shot of the Plaza

Sweet and salty tamales!
I'm obssessed.

Avenida del Sol again

Monasterio de Santa Catalina

Aerin being "rugged"
It's all about the jeans

Cloister inside the monastery

Incan foundations inside

In the cloister

Incans and colonials

The gardens out back

The Koricancha complex
The monastery was behind this; this is the left half of to the next pictures

Right half of Koricancha complex

The Sacsaywaman ruins
It's ACTUALLY pronounced "sexy woman". Hilarious.

Entering Sacsaywaman

Some of the ruins

Flowers growing out of the rocks

Zigzagging walls

Stone walls and turrets

Pretty wildflowers

Around Sacsaywaman

View of central Cusco

Arvand at the top

The mountains beyond

Me with the city below

Beautiful green mountains

Sprawling Cusco

Closeup of mountains

Huge white Jesus statue

The other half of the ruins

Gorgeous landscape

Church on the way down

Dinner with Jane and Sarah!
And yes, we ate at Jack's, the gringo restaurant, every night.

The church at night

The cathedral by night

Early morning tromping

Schoolchildren in the plaza

Stop at a market
We were on our way to the Sacred Valley

The grass-covered rooves

Man and llamas

Colorful hats for sale

Some textiles

More large textiles

Arriving at Pisac market
A larger town in the Sacred Valley below some major Incan ruins

Yes! A Peruvian stone lion!

Dramatic landscape

Strolling around the market

Colorful textiles

Tons of things to buy

One of the small vendors

Women knitting in the street

Woman selling carrots
Note the thread connecting her braids

Vegetables for sale

The food part of the market

The ruins way above the town
These ruins share the same name, Pisac

Aer Bear and me

The steep stairs to the ruins
The path was somewhat treacherous. Apparently tourists die here. Mmm.

Arriving at the Incan ruins

Amazing terraces
These coated the mountainsides

Far off doorway

The three of us at the very top
There was a small hill to be climbed at the very top, giving great valley views

The beautiful valley

More terraces

Full view of the upper ruins

The valley below

More valley

Still in great condition

Slanted doorway
Typical of Incan architecture; supposedly it protects against earthquakes.

Dilapidated house

The town below Ollantaytambo
It was actually really adorable

Houses clinging to the mountain

Our guide
We didn't listen to a WORD this dude said. We are probably the worst tour recipients ever.

Mountain facing Ollantaytambo

Warehouses and carving--
Do you see the man's face in the middle?

Ruins going up the mountain

The path along the mountain

More ruins

Meeeee

Arvand above the valley

So hot.

Danger danger!

High Voltage!

Funny stairs built into the wall
Contrary to what Arvand says, it does NOT look like I am farting my way up the wall.


Proud home owners
All they need is a pitchfork

An ancient fountain

Urubamba monastery and market

Incan ruins strewn behind us

At the Irish pub with the girls
Apparently they have those in Cusco, and apparently drinks hit you a LOT harder at such a high altitude...

The three of us at the pub

Jane, me, Sarah
$2.50/2 drinks happy hour + free drink passes at the clubs = dangerous

Arvand and Aerin

Sarah and Jane getting down

Arvand and me at a club

Jane and me!

5:30 AM PeruRail Station
Now that was a rough morning

Terraces out the train window

Sleeping Aerin and Arvand

Eating choclo on the train
Basically huge, really salty corn cobs

A slight derailing
No joke: There were 7 boulders in the tracks. It was like being on the Oregon Trail.

Another window view

Hiking up to Machu Picchu!

Almost there

The valley below

Machu Picchu!

Machu Picchu again!

Me above Machu Picchu

Amazingly preserved terraces

The gorgeous misty mountains

Llama family in the terraces

Momma llama and baby llama!

Scratching his face!

Devil ears

What a noble face

Incan walls

Huayna Picchu
The mountain facing Machu Picchu; you can hike up and get a spectacular view of the ruins. Unfortunately it was closed.

Great shot of Machu Picchu

Aww love this one

Llama model

'Three Doors' complex

View through an Incan window

The housing complex

The principal temple

Dwellings and cemetary

One of the buildings

We have no idea
Because we ran away from our tour and got totally lost. It was worth it.

Me above the ruins

The jungle hole
Machu Picchu is actually in the cusp of the Amazon region

Houses clinging to the mountain
These other mountains were jagged like teeth sticking up out of the valley

Arvand far away
And a chinchilla nearby

Terracing down the mountain

Me and clouds and mountains agai

Clouds settling in

Aerin in her Peruvian hat

She's a material girl

Me in my hat

Aerin and me

Looking towards Machu Picchu

Such pretty colors

Peruvian Aerin and me
Convincing? I think not

The valley below

Warrior Aerin on the train
This headdress doubled as a neck pad/sleeping aide. Highlights of the train ride: bouts of zigzagging, guy throwing up.

Strange delicious fruit
Guanabanana?

Carmen's dad and the pets

Argos and the cat
Back at Carmen's house

So cute

Being the cactus
There were some intense cacti around Lima

Back in Miraflores
On a cloudy day, as most are in Lima

El Parque del Amor
Of all the parks that lined Lima's waterfront, this one was my favorite

Kind of Barcelona-ish, huh?

Ana, Aerin and me by its statue

The lovers

Racy closeup...

A cute quote
"I love all that isn't mine--you, for example"

Quotes about love covered walls
"It's difficult to love, but one learns."

The three of us in the heart

Haha Arvand

Your love? His ass.
How Arvand really feels about love

Back in central Lima
At the Plaza de Armas--beautiful weather and great timing

More yellow colonial buildings

The cathedral at dusk

Military maneuvers at PrezPalace
Much more interesting this time--great music and choreography. They paraded around the streets afterward.

Arv, Aer and me by the cathedral

Plaza starting to light up

Fountain at sunset

The band parading the streets

Closer view of the band
Peru: Lima and the South Coast

Pre-flight boozin & schmoozin
Arvand got us into the first class lounge....sweet!

On the combi to Central Lima
Most of Lima looked somewhat like this view out the window

Another shot of the highway
Beyond it is one of the small mountains in Lima

The new bridge
This takes you into the center of the city

Lima's only river
To the right you can see the colonial buildings of central Lima

The edge of central Lima

New park on the river

Colorful colonial architecture

The post office building

Pretty in pink: San Domingo

Inside the church

Chapel beside the altar

Note the human skull in the box

Another side chapel

Bright yellow plaza

The Basilica Cathedral
On the Plaza de Armas

Passerby facing the plaza

Facade of the Cathedral

The Presidential Palace
We happened to arrive during the changing of the guard, which was really impressive to watch

A riot guard

The crowd at the palace

Crowds watching the procession

Arvand at the palace

Indigenous woman

The Plaza de Armas
The same plaza where the Presidential Palace and cathedral are located

The Presidential Palace

Arvand and me

Pretty colonial buildings

Crowds in the Plaza de Armas

Arvand and me by the palace

View of cathedral across plaza

The fountain in front

Closeup of the fountain

Our hilarious guide & Pizarro
By Pizarro I mean his dead body, and only maybe. Nobody knows whose bones are which.

Fresco of Conquistadors

The Monastery of San Francisco

Me in front of San Fran

Skulls down below
There were rooms upon rooms of catacombs with bones piled high

Some nice pots outside
I was bitter; they wouldn't let me take pictures inside. Hmph. I managed to sneak this one--quite the rebel am I.

San Cristobal
This mountain is visible from much of the city; you can ascend it and see the city lights by night

The Peruvian Congress

A delicious lunch with Carmen

The waterfront in Miraflores
Miraflores is the coastal suburb of Lima, and the nicest part of town where parks line the water's edge for miles

Condos on the coast

Tennis courts on the cliffs
Not half bad, except when you overshoot the fences...those tennis balls are GONE

Lighthouse in a seaside park

Closeup of lighthouse and ocean

Barranco church

Eating picarones in Barranco

Houses looking over the sea
Barranco

The Miraflores skyline

Sunset over the Pacific

Lima's beaches

Arvand and me at the discoteca

Ana and Carmen

Gettin our groove on
Carmen and me

Driving into Paracas Reserve

Crazy desert!
It was my first time being in a real desert, so I was amazed

Another desert shot

Aerin, Arvand and me
Aerin had joined us a day later

Closeup of us three

Dead in the desert

Dying in the desert

Arvand leaping about

All the girls
Carmen, Aerin, me, Ana

A bay in Paracas

A look across the bay

La Mina, our little beach

A sea gull

Perched seagull on the beach

Me getting dragged in
My first time in the Pacific Ocean!

Aerin running over

Everyone freezing in the water

Trying to drag Aerin in

Aerin escapes

Our beach

Cars driving out of Paracas

Another nearby beach

Dramatic cliffs down to the sea

Fishermen

Windswept rocky beach

Me, on the edge

Trying not to fall

Going over the edge!
It was impossible to not look stupid doing this. I tried several times.

Hiker Aerin

Hiking up to the highest dune

In good form up the steep dune

The view from the top of the dun
Hmm not as exciting as we expected, but still worth the climb

Another view from the dune

Me at the top of the world
Flying my Turkish towel

Ceviche
Peru's national dish. My stomach's downfall.

A guitarist outside

Inside our hostel in Pisco
A nice respite from the depressing town, which is a jumping off point for Paracas National Reserve and the Ballestas

Rooms lining the poolside

En route to the BallestasIslands
It would have been perfect if I hadn't been trying not to throw up the whole time (thanks to some not-so-fresh ceviche)

El Candelabro
No one's quite sure how old this hillside carving is

One of the islands
Thousands of birds were flying around

Birds flying low over the water

The famous rocky outcroppings

Birds covering the rock wall

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DSCN1116.JPG 2007-03-04

A sunlit cove

Peruvian boobies
I can't make this stuff up, guys

Little penguins!
So cute in real life!

More penguins!

A bridge built onto the island
Supporting the guano industry, one dropping at a time

A bird-covered rock arch

A seal beach!
You wouldn't believe the amount of noise they created

They covered the entire beach

More Peruvian boobies
I can't get over it

Seagulls and a sleeping seal

Adorable seal!!
He looks like my labrador retriever, but with flippers!

Another reposing seal
So cute

Arv and Aer on the boat
Why the hoods in 80 degree weather you ask? There were thousands of birds flying overhead...luckily no one was bombed.

Pelicans

Great selection of wildlife

SO CUTE

Pelicans and boobies

All covered in birds

A lone fisherman

More seals!
I want one

Another seal beach

More pelicans

Another tourist boat like ours

El Huacachinero
Our hostel in Huacachina, a really cool town

The hostel parrot

Dramatic view
Imagine sitting at that pool with a 200 foot tall sand dune behind you. Pretty cool.

By the pool
This was our little resort

Reflective Aerin

Aerin and me in the pool

In the dune buggy before leaving
Clutching my purse for dear life

And we're off!

Crazy desert

Endless sand

Racing down a dune

Racing after another buggy

More desert

Racing up a dune


Terrifying
It's hard to tell, but we are at a 90 degree angle facing downwards on a dune here

But so fun

Aerin peeking out the side

Yet another duney view

Another roller coaster ride

Like an ocean of sand

I took the buggy for a spin
JUST kidding.

Arabian nights, anyone?

Arvand, about to sandboard
Looking a bit nervous, I might add ;)

Being coached on the fine art
By Aerin's boyfriend, nonetheless

Life flashing before his eyes...

Tiny people at the bottom

Arvand and broken guy
Wifebeater guy took a beating hiself when he tried to go down snowboard-style

Another snowboarding attempt
These were all ill-fated. Lesson learned: never trust ancient Peruvian snowboards on sand dunes.

Going again...and again
Once he popped he couldn't stop

Arvand sandboarding

Triumphant Arvand below

Aerin cheering Arvand on

Yet another launch

The men at the bottom
We womenfolk were too wimpy to go

Another green spot

Arvand, Aerin and me

The three of us on the buggy

Desert sunset

More sunset

Dune buggy at dusk

Pinching the sun

Arvand doing acrobatics

Hmm
And I thought the hills were scary.

Arvand

Buildings on the oasis

Pretty palm tree

Looking at the oasis
Surrounded by high dunes on all sides

Another oasis shot
This place is a natural oasis...so surreal

Nice hotel + dune

A partial view of the town
I couldn't make it up the whole dune to get the view, so this is what I got. Sorry. Panoramic photo coming soon.

Taking off in Nazca
Arvand chose to go while Aerin and I sat by the pool back in Huacachina

On the small plane

The control panel

View out the side of the plane

The "space man"

Space man again

Tough to see, but the monkey

Look really hard
Spiral drawing

A fish and geometric lines

The hummingbird

Headless bird

Pair of hands

Animal and geometric lines

The pilot

Arv on the plane

Coming into Nazca

On the runway

On the bus back to Lima

Dinner with Carmen's family
Carmen's dad, Arvand, Aerin, Carmen, her sister Ana, and her mom
Winter 2007: The Beginning of the End

GU vs. Pitt

Beginning of the game

Julia and me

It's Miller time

Caitlin and me

Foul shot time

It's Jack!
Our mascot

A face only a mother could love

Cait and Jack

Double fisting

Hoyas in possession

I don't really know

The packed MCI Center
Surprising because it was about a week before school started back

VERY UNHAPPY
We started losing...and didn't stop.

Jules didn't get the idea

There we go: MAD.

Whoosh

Aerin and me at Tombs

Aerin's roommates
Allison, Melanie, Jen, Miriam, Aerin

Wow: Danny's hair
Cailin, Danny, me, Danny's hair

Margaret and Laura
The delayed Secret Santa exchange

Charlotte and Jessie

Molly, Emily, Jessie at the bar

Molls and me

Jessie and her new pod thing

Everyone loves the blob

Fergalicious so...not delicious

At Tombs with the girls
Jessie, Molly, Amanda, Emily, Charlotte, me

Molly and Amanda

Lauren's 21st!!

Jessie playing the 5 second game

Margaret playing the Game
I fail to see the merits of this game

Emily going for it

ATL girls: Lauren and me

Lauren and Laura

Cailin's party! Cailin and Craig

Cailin and Alana

That's right

Alanya girls
Cailin, Alana, me, Aerin

Rex and Laura

Stumbling back home

Crazy eyes

Charlotte in Rex's helmet

On Rex's motorcycle
We took it for a spin...NOT.

Trying to cure the hiccups

Hahah not working

UR 2 CUTE

Aerin and her cheese

Out in Adam's Morgan

All of us at Tom Tom's

Charlotte, Aerin ,me

Aerin and Charlotte

Erica and Mike

Not sure...

Thaaaat's hot

Dancing at Tom Tom

Molly and Charlotte

Molly and me

Jen, Virginia, Jessie

Aerin and me

Looks like a Miller lite ad

Haha Virginia

Molly and Charlotte

The wall decor in Madam's Organ

BEWARE

JUMBO SLICE!!

Sharing a big fat piece

These are the size of cars

It's bigger than my abdomen
I don't want to THINK about the calories involved in this.

Aerin and MJ

Me and Kate

Oh the memories!!

Coca cola cup
This seemed amusing at the time

Lauren and me at her house

Blair and me

Aerin and her cousin

Laurie

Party shot

The birthday girls

Alanya reunion!!

Charlie and Pat

Dinner at Divan

Arvand and his sigara boregi

Smokin that borek

Monique, Ayse, Cailin

View from the back seat

Robby and me 2

Cailin and Arvand

Rob, Alana, Pat

At Zeytinya for drinks

Most of the group

Monique, Ayse, Chuckles

Pat, Mones, Ayse, me, Robby

The next night...
Arvand and me at Lima

Roomies: Romina and Cailin

Dancing in Lima

Chada and me and...?

Charlie, Monique, me

Very concerned

Good times in Lima

Rob having better times

Mones not having the best time
Cashmere turtlenecks dont' really do in dance clubs

Rob and Monique dancing

Romina, Chada, me

Chach and me, the AM after

PS girls + tequila

Downing that tequila

Cindy, Claire, Meghan

It's her birthday

Stuart and her replica

Imitating the Alcatraz guy

Allison and me

Caitlin, Stuart, me, Ashley, Dan

Caitlin, Stuart, me, Dana

Jermaine and me

Carianne and myself

Kristina and me

Again

Krazy Kristina

Lauren and me

Virginia getting a lap dance

Well you can get a...
lapdance here for free.

Kristina and Rachel

A weathered looking Jen

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DSCN0851.JPG 2007-02-03

Mike and Erica at our house

Erica, Emily and someone

Charlotte and me

Blair and me

Blair and me again

Carianne on my bed

Getting revved up to play

We've got this covered

Jessie and me, pre-pong

Emily, Jessie and me

Setting up

Talking strategy

Taking the shot

Look at that precision

Awww

My turn

YEAH

So scary

Superbowl night

Virginia's real 21st! At Tombs.

Stoplight time.

First the red

Recovering from yellow

Downing the green

Blair and I at Zeytinya

My Vagina Monologues cast!
In the Walsh Black Box

A bunch of the girls

My group: Pema, Kate and me

Moni mixing some drinks

Good stuff, this is

Aerin and me in Henle

At the Mardi Gras party
Cailin, me, Aerin, Monique. WOW we looked stupid in those masks haha.

Chuckles and me

Charlie and me in Tombs

Moni and me in Tombs
DSCN0896.JPG 2007-02-18

Monique, Aerin and me

What love

Margaret doing i don't know what

Charlotte and me

Emily, MOlly and Laura

Molly and me in Tombs

Erin and me

Katie's 2+2: 22!

The next game versus Pitt

Back at the MCI Center
Cailin, Danny and me

Check out that sweater!

Free throwing

The packed stadium

Groove Theory dancing

Action on the court

Pulling ahead of Pitt

And so we did.
New Years 2007

I'll take Grey Goose

Arif and me

Mmm Grey Goose

Arif, Jennie, Chada and me

Arif uncorking

A forced drinkoff. I'm not happy

I'm pretty sure I won.

Katie and JB

Jennie and Chris

Chada and Steven
Where's my couple?!?!?

Arif and Chada facing off

3/4 Italy reunion

Candids are unfortunate

Hahaha

Taking a silver shower

Not my best moment

Westminster photo op

Take 2

Brown boys
Aleem, Rafiq, Arif

Fiqster and me

Me and the Dream

Jennie and Chris again

Rafiq with half my cup

Awww

Chada and Rafiq


Aleem, Chada and Rafiq

Brown boys and Chada


Quoi?

It's just for decorations

Chattahoochee boys


Steven and me

I love Chach
Christmas 2006

Alanyalilar do Zaytinya!

Waiting at the bar
Monique, Cailin, Alana, Aerin, me

Bottoms up, boys
Danny and Pat do a raki drink-off

Arvand, his hair, and Danny

Danny, Pat and Arvand

Creative olive oil

Pat, Cailin, me, Moni

My awesome couscous

Everyone minus Charlie

Aerin, Alana, Arvand

What?!

Peruvian drinks!
At a Peruvian restaurant with Carmen and a friend

Julie, Carmen and me

Carmen and me
Carmen was my Peruvian language partner

I'm going there!!
(Machu Picchu)

Blair and me
At his Christmas party

Katerina and me

Little Black Riding Hood

Blair

Pretty party decorations

More pretty decorations

Blair multitasking

Looking good while G&Ting

Long time no see!
Kelsey, Teri and me

Conor and me

The Kennedys
Mrs. Kennedy, Katharine, Weeum

MG and Dad

The sister shot

Santy Claus
Looks an awful lot like Mr. Hicks...

Santa's little helper

Mr. and Mrs. Claus

The Clauses and Little Linda

The crowd

Blair on Santa's lap

Receiving her gift



Smith family shot

My dad on Santa's lap!

Sweet doo rag

Hilarious

Little Jay

Mrs. Hicks getting gifted

Santa's gorgeous helpers ;)


Little Mary Genevieve


Little Nancy with Santy Claus


Katherine and the purple fan


Dad and me

MG, Dad, the dorag and me

The Kennedy girls

Nancy and me

Baxie on Christmas morning

Mom under the tree

Dad with his new toy

Grandmommie

Merritt

My fave new discovery
Merritt made this his junior year of high school. He's very talented.

A llama? A camel? Who knows

Closeup of the llamel
Thanksgiving 2006

Laura, calculating away

Finally decorating our house

Laura is our handyman

We finally got the photos up!

Virginia is scared of the turkey

Going for the giblits


Me slicing away
Apple pie to come!

Charlotte and the dough

Mmm the homemade bread

Laura showing off the turkey

We were ravenous!
Good job Virg!

A little Desperate Housewives

My beautiful latticed pie
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Margaret hitting up the brie
Baked, I might add, with cherries on top

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My full dinner plate

The new Georgia aquarium!

Ewww jellyfish

More jellies

Colorful fish

Big shark in the tank

Swimming over me
You can walk through a tunnel that goes right through the aquarium

Big shark again

And again

Beluga whale!

Beluga whale

Doing flips for the crowd


Sea dragons in the kelp!

More sea dragons




Eww scary crabs

I'd like to eat him

Colorful school of fish

More colorful fish

Penguins!!

Swordfish

Look at that snout!

Pirhanas!!

Pirhanas
So creepy--they were just floating, all staring in the same direction

Pirhanas
Waiting for a member of the crowd to fall in?

Pirhana close up

More pirhanas

Me and a sea otter

Triumphant me, post race
I broke 2 hours!!

Mom and me

Mom and me 2

The finish meeting area

Me at the finish

Dad and me

Mete and me, Coke style

This one's getting framed
And sent to our favorite ex-bosses

Mete and me at the Cyclorama
That's right, my dad dragged us there for Mete to get "the Southern experience"

Me and the pups

The sibs
Merritt, Mary Genevieve, me
Senior Fall Photos

The new digs

Our b-e-a-utiful Burleith street

Our little hovel

Yes, my bedroom

Yes, that is my fireplace

DSCN0097.JPG
DSCN0097.JPG 2006-08-25

Cactus night! Mmm margaritas
Charlotte, Julia, me, Jessie

Charlotte and Mo

Charlotte and Laura
Before the concert

Laura, Charlotte and me

Molls and myself
Mid-concert

Manly/serious dancing

Counting Crows onstage

More counting crows

Brunch cooks hard at work
Laura and Virginia

Virginia making pancakes!

Words can't describe

Pat, Aer and me
Being mischevious

Alanya girls!
Aer, me and Cailin

Aerin, me and Cailin

Must have been good news

Arvand is back!

Cailin and Pat at tombs

Dancing the night away

Cailin and me in Tombs

Blue House girls + Laura
Erica, Margaret, Laura, Katie

Charlotte, Laura and me

All the girls!
Katie, me, Laura, Margaret, Molly, Charlotte, Jessie, Erica

Birthday girl triple fisting!
Charlotte in Thirds

Blurry bar shot

Jessie, Charlotte, Laura, Margs

Lots of Thirds girls!
Jessie, Margaret, me, Charlotte, Molly, Erica

Smutty Nose

Pat and Charlie like always

Nice shoes, Aer!

Chillin on Pat's couch
Cailin, me, Pat and my green galosh

Aww Pat and Aer

Katie, Jessie, Laura, A2, Molls

Karaoke at Cafe Japone!
Jules, Charlotte, me, Virginia

Virginia and Youna

Cute: Amanda and Molly
DSCN0236.JPG 2006-09-23

Erica, Amanda, Jules, me

The group up to bat

Singing karaoke

Mmmm edemame

Saaaaaake

The happy couple
Virg and me

Amanda, Molly, Jules

Booth craziness

Molly, Charlotte, Erica, Emily

Jules, Charlotte, Amanda, Virg

Haha Molls and Charlotte

Jules and me

Birthday girl dessert!
Caitlin's 21st

Digging in
Caitlin's 21st

Hotel Washington for drinks

The view from Hotel Washington

My side of the table
Me, Mandy, Dana, Caitlin

The other girls

The birthday girl and me

Blair's and my daytrip

The canal at Great Falls
Blair's and my fieldtrip

Reflections of leaves

Some rocky falls

The old canal



Blue heron in the Potomac

The Great Falls

Close up on the Falls

Blair and me at the falls

:)

Dervishes at iftar

Team Drinking Pants

Drinking pants

Now that's team spirit

Cait and me

Throat Masters prepare
Dana and Marcy

Throat Master vs. Drinking Pants

Dana and me

Haha nice spelling Allison
Team Moldawer rules

Dussy = a tank
The case rase continues

Case rase craziness

Sad KJ

The pants!!

The final 30

Team Moldawer takes gold

Lauren and me

Emily and me

Housemates!

Jules and Charlotte

Jules and me after the race!
Baltimore half-marathon, Oct. 14

But we're so much more...

Jules in her stunning cape

My favorite fan

Cailin's cocktail party!

Cait and me upstairs
Being sketchy slash lazy

A walk in the park

Pretty red tree in Dumbarton

The flaming red tree

Blair and me, crossing the bridg
This seems metaphorical somehow

Aerin and Allison at Tombs

Miriam, Jen and Charles

Jessie and me before Thirds

Hahah Aerin and Miriam
Being slutty girlscouts

Much better

Thirds fun
Aer, Miriam, me, Cailin

It's a SANDWITCH!!
Me, Cailin, Beth

Vampire Charlie

Alanyalilar in the barlilar
Me, Cailin, Charlie

Pat and ghetto Aer

Monique's party!
Mones, Aer, me

Halloween party pooper

Team World
Charlotte, Molls, Margaret, Laura, Amanda, Virg, Emily, Jessie

I'm their Greek goddess mascot!

Crazy, crowded M St.
It was a mob scene on Halloween

People running amuck

Me with two ex crewies!
Kristin, Erica and me outside Tombs. Great to see them!

Sketchy Danny and me

Rena and me at Tombs!

Cocktail party at Blue House!
me, Charlotte, Meredith, Laura

Flamingo. Katie. Me.

Jessie, Charlotte and me

Post-party photos
Apple pie jungle juice is such a bad thing

Oh, dear.

Eskimo Charlotte

Kegs n' Eggs at Cait's house

Red wine and us three...
Why, I feel like I'm right back in Alanya

Chuckles!

Spiderman shoes
Oh the places those shoes have been

Charlie and the Turk bayragi

Back at Tombs!
Pat, me, Aerin, Charlie

Chuckles and Aer Baer

Cailin and me

Cailin, Charlie, me

Bad bar picture
Taylor's Wedding!

Taylor handing off the flowers

All the wedding party girls

Primping for the wedding!
Jennie, Chada, Caitlin and me

In the church after the ceremony

The bride's cake
Delicious...I may or may not have had upwards of 2 slices.

The huge band in Capital City

Boys in pink
Coincidence? I think not.

Eating dinner in Capital City
Arif, Chada, me, Smith, Lance

Taylor and Chris about to dance

The first dance

Taylor's dress was gorgeous

The parent dance


Chada and me with Taylor!

John just told me...
my Georgetown house has bedbugs.

Oh well.
Guess I'll just have to get a bigger bed. ;)

Mr. Corbitt and me
The father of the bride. Come to think of it, he DOES look a little like Steve Martin.

John, Mr. Corbitt and me

Mr. Corbitt and Langdon

John and sultry Caitlin

Smith and me

Pink boys accosting Taylor


Maria and Lance

Why won't you come out with us?
Langdon, Mrs. Kennedy, Timmy, John

Jennie, Taylor, Caitlin, me

Jennie, Taylor, Caitlin, me

Sweet moment on the dance floor

Katherine and me on the patio

Reunited with my old twin
Maria and me

No comment.

Smith being seductive

Jennie and me sharing the rose

John and me

Again, no comment.
Caitlin and me

Westminster reunion!

Taylor throwing the bouquet

Making a swift exit
Taylor started law school the Monday after the wedding

The parents of the bride
Mr. and Mrs. Corbitt, looking stylish

Out in Buckhead afterwards
John, Rafiq and me

Rafiq and Arif

John taking me for a spin

Dancing to Alabama
Istanbul'daki oldugum yaz 2006

Welcome to Istanbul
Where the playas play

Bright lights welcoming us back

On the bus to Taksim

Taksim Square

Istiklal Caddesi

Galatasaray, shampiyon!

Street corn seller on Istiklal

Palma d'Oro restaurant
Located in Suaviye, we ate here when Arvand visited us on his way back from Israel

Sherefe!

Arv, Ayse and me after dinner

Kadikoy cats

Kadikoy palace

Leaving Kadikoy harbor

Osman Aga Camii

Look towards Europe

Closeup of palace

Industrial stuff on shore

Eerie yellow sky over Istanbul

Maiden Tower and skyscrapers

Kid on the ferry

Topkapi Palace

Coming into Eminonu

Ferry fun

Maiden Tower and Karakoy

Covered Bazaar

Dried fruit for sale

Interesting dried fruit options

Boat for sale

Park and Marmaris mansion

Ottoman Marmaris mansion

Running path by Marmaris
I ran here in the evenings when I was staying in Erenkoy

Unbeknownst to you...
There are actually whales in the Sea of Marmara. There are a few fine beached specimens right here.

Parallel paths

Dolmushes
It's how I get around

Besiktas mosque

Another Besiktas mosque

Istanbul Modern Muzesi
Istanbul's modern art museum. We met up with Andrea here!

Alanya tost reunion
Ayse, Dre, me

Karakoy to Golden Horn view

Dre and me under the flag

Nice street off Istiklal

Out with Andrea's fam!
Watching the US-Italy game in Taksim: Ayse, Dre, Anna's parents, Dave, Anna, Mrs. Brown, me

Cheers to a US non-loss!

Drinking like any good hooligan

We 5 kids headed out to a club

A few drinks later

Me on the ferry!
Riding a ferry into the European side provides the most amazing view of Istanbul

The Golden Horn from afar

Blue Mosque, Ayasofya, Topkapi

Imperial mosques and palace

Topkapi Palace

Galata tower

Downtown Istanbul

BosphorusBridge crossing Ortakoy

The First Bosphorus Bridge

Kumpir time!

Our kumpir!
Baked potatoes stuffed with anything you can imagine

Ortakoy Camii
Located right on the waterfront

The minbar inside

Its colorful dome

Me and the mosque

Waterfront Ortakoy
Full of cute restaurants and bars

Ferries in the Bosphorus
I can't stop taking pictures of that skyline

Small Ortakoy harbor

Upstairs at Mado with Elif

Portrait shopping

19th cent. Greek church

One of the church dogs!!

"French Street"
A hidden street with great cafes

Wine time

Yeni Camii, I think
Across the Golden Horn (lit. New Mosque)

Topkapi by night

Golden Horn at night

Bridge and mosques

Haghia Sophia

Whoops not sure

Haydarpasa
Ferrying back to Kadikoy after a great day in Ortakoy and Beyoglu

Topkapi

Galata tower and Golden Horn

Both Yeni and Suleymaniye camis

Yeni Camii from the water

Yeni Camii

Yeni Camii across the square

Entrance of Yeni Camii

Men performing ablutions

Covered woman ablutes

Tilework at Yeni Camii

Yeni Camii's light dome

Decorative arches
Yeni Camii

Suleymaniye up on the hill

Suleymaniye and minaret

Entrance to Suleymaniye Camii

Two of Suleymaniye's minarets

Facade of Suleymaniye

Crescent-topped dome

My favorite view of Golden Horn

Suleymaniye's amazing view

Old building in Sultanahmet

Muslim cemetary
Check out those turbans

A fork in the road

Father and daughter on the ferry

A look at Topkapi

Elif and her anneanne

Bidik looking retardo

Bidiiiik

Bidik on the couch

My street in Goztepe!

Coskun and me on the ferry

Cruiseship in Karakoy

The Hagina rarely looks fina

Close up of the Haghia Sophia

Ayasofya's buttresses

Pretty flowers by Ayasofya

Family celebrating circumcision

Me by the Blue Mosque

My Turkish boyfriend Coskun

Blue mosque on a beautiful day

Blue Mosque behind fountain

Outline of Blue Mosque

More mosque and fountain

I spent way too much time there

Old train station in Sultanahmet

Yet another Topkapi shot

Mosques and sails

Sea of sailboats

Colorful sail by Ayasofya

Around the office!
Aysun, Emel, Doruk

Senem and Doruk

Damla, Ali and me

In the internet cafe
Aysun, me, Emel, Kemal, Doruk

Ilhan and Kemal

First bridge and full moon

Bosphorus in the moonlight

Mete and his minty lemonade

Me sippin' on mine

Mete and me in Ortakoy

Ortakoy Camii by night

Ortakoy mosque and boats

Mete driving me around
Solo in Sofia

Long 2 AM wait at the border
Police kept yelling "Passport!" as I tried to stay awake...four hours later we finally made it across.

Sunflower fields

Sofia international bus terminal
Small but clean and nice

Inside the station

Cyrillic street signs

Walking to the hostel
I decided to forgo a taxi (not that I had any lev to pay them with) and take in the sights en route to the hostel.

Interesting buildings

Tram on cobblestone
Trams appeared to be the main form of public transportation; they ran down every street.

Parliament building from afar

McWhat?
Not that I ate here for lunch my first day...

Where do I get one of those?
The quickest way to a Bulgarian man's heart is through a double cheeseburger, apparently.

Tram crossing St. Nedelya

Sveta Nedelya Church

Its shiny interior

St. Nedelya dome
I got major glares from a proper Orthodox woman for this photo shoot. Deal with it, lady.

Sheraton hotel area

St. Sofia in the intersection

St. George,Sofia's oldest church
Now surrounded by downtown buildings, this rotunda dates to the 4th century

Changing of the guard
I just happened to stumble upon this as I was leaving the rotunda of St. George

The old guards marching out

Lift those legs, boys!
Note the yellow brick road--no joke. And yes, I did follow it.

The National Assembly building
Former Communist Party building! They took off the star and voila, democracy.

The central department store
It actually had some quality shopping

St. Nikolai Russian Church

Closeup of St. Nik

St. Nikolai's sparkling domes

Typical beautiful roof

Sofia's most famous cathedral

Alexander Nevsky cathedral
This cathedral is simply breathtaking. I hate shutterfly for messing up my photo. :(

Me by the cathedral

Sketchy inside photograph
I knew they would kill me if they saw me taking it, so I had to be secretive and quick and in a rando location.

The other side of the church

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

The biggest lion of all

I liked him a lot

I don't know why, I really don't

Bulgaria's St. Sofia
Built by Justinian, this actually fell and was rebuilt in the 1800s. Not gorgeous, but it is the city's namesake.

Cute street by St. Sofia

Pretty fountain

Park and fountain by theater

Ivan Vazor Theater

Martenitsa in the tree
A Bulgarian March tradition: these bring good luck and ward off evil.

More martenitsa
When you see the first stork of spring, you must immediately tie yours in the tree. Cute tradition, huh?

Sofia Art Gallery

Sofia's only minaret

Fair by the mosque

Banya Bashi Mosque
Sofia's only operative mosque; many old mosques were torn down about 25 years ago

Striped Sofia Synagogue
The most decorative, beautiful mosque I've ever seen

The huge synagogue
Unfortunately I could not enter because I'm not Jewish. Aer, Jules--where were ya when I needed you??

Synagogue domes

Shining Star of David

I can't figure out what this is

Hostel Mostel, where I stayed
This place pretty much paid for itself--I got 3 free meals and internet access out of it

Everyone watched the WC game
I think this one was Germany-Argentina? All the residents just hung out for hours in this common room

Vitosha Mountain
A skiing destination, it is very close to the city and can be seen from most areas

Driving into the Rila Mountains
Ivan took 4 of us to Rila monastery, tucked into these mountains

They are still covered in snow

Strange rock outcrop
Reminds me of Armenia

Arriving at the monastery
Let it suffice to say that this place was off the beaten path

Rushing stream by monastery

Rila's entrance

First view into beautiful Rila
This place was out of control--so many colors and such a different style of architecture

Opposite view
Nothing says 'welcome' like a razor-sharp pair of antlers

That's me at the bottom

Hrelyu Tower
The only part of the complex remaining from the original 1335 monastery

Kitchen chimney!

Residential area

Colonnade around courtyard

Tall pines, like in the hills

Monastery view from upper floor

The hostel crew
So an American, two Aussies and a Canuck walk into a monastery...

Nativity church closeup

Stripes, domes, crosses & clouds

Into the church

The church's colorful colonnade

Brightly painted dome

Church wall frescoes

Kristos Pantokrator judging you

Entrail-like sausage
And yet she still ate it

Ice cream for the road

I spy with my little eye...
an AQUEDUCT!! Bulgaria was part of the Roman empire way back in the day.

To Sofia!

Happy to be heading home
Greece, Part IV: Athens

Patrick and Arvand eating kok
At the Rhodes airport at 7 AM. I mean, come on, guys--at least wait until we get to the hostel.

The kok
It must be said that Patrick actually purchased and ate this concoction

Goodbye Rhodes :(

Walking up to the Acropolis
We took a quick nap in the hostel and then headed over this way

Entrance, Temple of Athena Nike

We could see to the coast

And down into Monastiraki

Ruins scattered around the base

The famous Parthenon!
Unfortunately it was covered by a lot of scaffolding

Me being a tourist

The Parthenon's facade

Pediment, frieze and architrave
My, what fine triglyphs and metopes!

All of us by the Parthenon

More ruins below

Not sure what this is--Alana?

The stunning Erechtheion
Famous for its maiden columns

The 'maiden porch' from the SW

Arvand, the armless maiden

Porch Silhouette from SE

Dark, coffered propylaea
That means entrance ;)

Pat and me

A last look at the Parthenon

Hadrian's arch
This guy follows us around everywhere. Or maybe we've just seen too many Roman ruins.

Realllly tall palm trees

Athens National Park

Doggie cooling off in the pond

Big ugly ostrich
Imagine our surprise when we walked into the park and walked right into THESE weird birds

SQUAWK

Beautiful male peacock

The full shabang

Getting an overpriced park snack

Stoic guard
The big clown shoes give him away, though. This is a guy who likes to have fun

We almost got trampled

Marching away

Syntagma Square!
Note to self: on next trip to Athens, forgo crappy hostel and stay in swanky $500 a night establishment here

The Parliament Building
Also in Syntagma Square

Monastiraki at night
The old part of Athens, very cute and lively with nice restaurants and great shopping

Monastiraki Square
Byzantine Church dead center

Acropolis by night from Plaka

A little hostel gin

Piraeus train station

Today's Piraeus port
Now where all the cruise ships from the islands come in, Piraeus was Athens' ancient port

Harborside St. Spiridonas

Pat and I climbed way up high

Beware dog! I think?

Byzantine church and Roman wall

The Stoa of Attalus

Temple of Hephaestus

Leapfrog in the ruins

Temple of Olympian Zeus ruins

Kolonaki at night

Pat and Arvand at dinner
We found a wonderful Monastiraki restaurant

Roommate love

Ayse and me

Mmmm Sangria
I couldn't keep it in the glass long enough to take a proper photo

Our day of shopping!!

Weighed down by our purchases
Arvand and his money-making pants...this kid is so lucky, he could probably walk on water--and has

Um, awkward?
These Greeks don't know what to do with me

My dear, dear love

Benaki Museum

Westminster reunion!
Kathleen and me hanging out in Athens

Greek flag

Ayse fighting with luggage
Anything that COULD have gone wrong on our obstacle-ridden trip to actually board the plane to Istanbul DID

Flying over the Bosphorus

The sunset of our trip
Cheesy but true
Greece, Part III: The Best Day

Arvand
And they're off

Our chauffer
Arvand drove the vast majority of the trip

Alana in shotgun

ME (obvi)

Ayse

The open road

The flowery road

The hilly eastern coast

To Valley of the Butterflies!

As I walk through the valley...
There was no shadow of death, but we did realize there were no butterflies left.

Sunny day in the forest

On the bridge

Waterfall

Lilypads in the pond

Looking out over the forest

Alana, searching for butterflies
She CLAIMS she found two, but we're still not sure

Our little Kia

Roadside photo shoot!
Not even knowing this was our intended stop, it was so beautiful that we immediately pulled over

Lindos from the highway

View of Lindos from the beach
To which, of course, we quickly gravitated

The "back muscle shot"

Waist-deep water!!
You could wade hundreds of feet out, it was great

I'm not sure who wins
Or what they were competing for in the first place

Windmills on the peninsula

Whitewashed Lindos houses

We chose both

Twisting staircase

Aerial view of Lindos

Walking around the town

Alana, Ayse and me

Piot the Pole!!!!
Our guide book actually recommended that we pick up hitchhikers. We took this advice to heart.

Our penitential pitstop

Alana the Greek goddess

Cozy Ayse, Alana & Arv

Ayse in the driver's seat
I smell burning...

We camped out to watch sunset
True to form, in the ruins of a Hospitaller castle on the west coast. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.

Ayse, Alana and me

Real World Rhodes

Chiapet Arvand--we love it
Have you gotten a haircut yet?

Prepping for my photo
As Ayse makes her descent

Arvand is making me laugh

Ayse and me in the sunset light

Sunset sequence 1

Sunset sequence 2
Tiny islands off the coast

Sunset sequence 3
The sun over the island

Sunset sequence 4

Sunset sequence 5

Sunset sequence 6

Sunset sequence 7
That's the moon up on the right

The facade of our castle
And then we drove back to reality...and a four o'clock wakeup call.
Greece, Part II: Symi Island Daytrip

To Symi!

The ferry to Symi
Me, Aerin, Alana, Arvand, Ayse, Patrick

Arvand sleeping on Ayse
Aww

View from the ferry

Blue blue blue
Over the railing

Small boat in a big sea
Sorry if you can't see it in this small size; it is a very tranquil image

A windmill!
It greeted us as we pulled into the monastery harbor

The scrubby landscape

Another look at the windmill

Pulling into the harbor

Close-up of the harbor

Colorful boat

Our big ferry

Monastery entrance

A priest sits outside

Ayse, Aerin and me inside

The colorful belltower

Flowers and the windmill

The clear water
And sea anemones at the bottom!

All of us at the harbor
We are such tourists.

Alana and me

Sidelong look at the harbor

Adorable little rowboat

The harbor from the monastery

Pulling into the big Symi harbor

The U-shaped port area
Lined with adorable old buildings

"The Three Stooges do Symi"
Not to brag, but WOW I'm tan.

Boats and buildings

Colorful stairway

Empty leafy stairs

Walking up to the top

Wrecked houses

View between houses

Pretty flowers on the wall

Another great view

On the way up the island

The entire harbor

Big blue houses

A typical little alley

Yellow Orthodox church

Back at the harbor

Houses on the steep incline

Statue of a child

Greek children playing

Cats on the wall at dusk

Our bar of choice for the night

Ayse, Alana, me, Aerin
After a day at sea, we were ready to start drinking like sailors

Patrick, Ayse, Alana, Arv, Aer

Sunburned roomies

Ayse and me, facing off

I have no idea

Again, no idea

Aerin, Arvand and me

Hahah Patrick

Everyone dancing
Greece, Part I: Rhodes Scholars

At the Alanya bus station
Catching an overnight bus to Marmaris...then onwards to Rhodes!

At the Marmaris port
We took an overnight bus to get here and hopped a ferry to get away to Rhodes

Catnapping at 6 AM
As we waited for the ferry port to open

The line to board the ferry

Boarding the ferry

Coming into Rhodes harbor
Amazing even from a half mile away

Disembarking in Rhodes!

One of many gates into Old Town
Lugging suitcases across cobblestone streets = not fun.

Stumbling around lost

Bustling Old Town square

Pigeons on fountain

Typical Old Town street

Necessary tourist shot

Medieval frieze

Pretty pink chimney

Old abandoned house

Beautiful Ottoman mosque
The Greeks know how to dress up a mosque

The Roloi, or clock tower

Clock tower closeup

Us from the clocktower

The Hospitaller castle from abov
CBC move #1: being too cheap to pay to go up the tower and giving Arvand my camera to take pictures

Mosques mosques everywhere

View over Rhodes from clock towe
View over Rhodes from clock tower_Pat's photos.jpg 2006-12-23

Hmm: Vom or Spezial Vom?
Tough decision.

Street sign and canopy

The Turkish library
Prettier on the inside; this was just the wall around it

The Street of the Knights
En route to the castle

Gargoyles lining the street

Street of the Knights

Entrance to the Palace
Palace of the Grand Masters, that is

Palace towers

Check out those granulations
CRENELLATIONS. Crenellations.

Papal seal above the gate

The bunch of us
Patrick, Aerin, Ayse, Alana, Arvand, me!

Inside the palace
In true cheap bastard form, only Ayse and I paid to get in but took pictures with everyone else's cameras

A finely adorned groin...vault.
With the Rhodes deer

Scary cocker spaniel capitals

Another lion classic
I don't know what draws me to them

Entering the palace corridors

"FERT FERT". Dunno.

My poor bored friends
Ayse and I took too long in the castle

Street of the Knights
You can see the Mediterranean through the arch

Last shot of the street
This street adjoined the Palace of the Grand Masters

Palm outside the old town walls

Rhodes Town sea walls

Gorgeous harbor

Windmills lining the harbor

Trolloping down the road

Greek boats in the harbor
We managed to meet our future captain here!

The deer statue in the harbor

Palace from the sea

Petals on the cobblestone street

Adorable alleyway
This turned into a row of candlelit bars at night

Gyros: it's what's for dinner
Cheap Bastard Tenet: never spend more than 2 euros on dinner

Rhodes Town by night

More walking around at night

A sponge stand
The islands in this region are famous for their natural sponges

Ayse perusing the sponges

Alana, me, Ayse, Pat

The same cute alley

We had a drinkeroo here

Rhodes by morning
I brought my camera on a run with me

Gorgeous building

It's all Greek to me

Seahorse fountain

One of the many gates
Into Old Town Rhodes

Windmills and sea fort
Along the harbor

The harbor early in the morning
Morning runs are great for getting beautiful, uncrowded photos of places

Rhodes island bus

The Rhodes deer is everywhere

Old Town from our hostel roof

Some old houses

The rickety way down

Coming back into the harbor
Rhodes harbor is known for these deer that guard the entrance

Sailing away from it all!

Ahoy mateys!!
Alana and Ayse

Me and Arv

Palace of the Grand Masters
From the Mediterranean

Buncha barnacles
Ayse, me, Alana, Aer, Pat

KAP'N KRUSTY
Can you believe this guy? Please note the flowered sunhat

Aer gettin the job done
Raising the sails

Alana at the wheel

The Old man and the Sea
And Ayse. And Arvand. And a captain that looked like Krusty the Klown.

Our ship, The Vikings
Come to think of it, Krusty was sort of Viking-ish

Just chillin'.
Note: this photo was for farsical purposes only. I do not actually wear this hat.

Sailing along the coast

Our sails

Aerin and me in the stern

Rhodes' east coast

Our light lunch

Alana jumping ship

Swimming in one of the coves
The water was cold! Aerin and Ayse playing with the soon-to-be-lost beach ball

Land walls by night
There is a great path that runs all the way around the Old Town in between the land and sea walls

Demonstrating our bathroom
One could shower, brush one's teeth AND use the toilet, all at once, in this fine latrine.

Byzantine church ruins

Pat and Arvand swinging
Yes, we played on a playground. Yes, like elementary schoolers.

Arvand and Ayse see sawing

Alana and me swinging

Alana letting out the innerchild

Another night out
The Last Day

The group after our last exam

Dre and me

The badminton court
The site of many a crusader badminton duel

Daffodils at the villa

Boys on the badminton court

Ayse and me
Summer buddies!

Turkce Iki!
Rob, me and Ayse

Heading out of the harbor
We got an afternoon cruise around the Alanya harbor after our architecture exam!

Cruising by the jetty

Lying out on the deck
The bunch of us

More deck shenanigans
Patrick is pouncing

Ayse and her fine Ataturk wine
From Migros

My favorite!!
Ayse, Aerin, Cailin, me, Alana

A look at the harbor

The Seljuk arsenal

Castle walls on the cliff

The monastery on the knuckle

One of many caves

Ahoy mates

Fisherman at sea

Charlie

The knuckles

Rusty anchor

Boys on the bow
Charlie, Arvand, Patrick

Dre model shot

Ayse plugs it and jumps

Climbing into Lovers' Tunnel

Aylin, Andrea, Alana
In the pool that is the Mediterranean

Cap'n Aysh

Rob? Or Ace Ventura?

Playing with strings
That would be the captain

Cailin can't do it either

Aylin and Monique

Migros' most important aisle

Girls in dresses at the dinner
Aerin, Cailin, Alana, Aylin, me

Monique, Ayse, Sylvia hanim, Dre

Aylin and me

Atlllll Me and Arvand

Host families eating cake

The birthday girl!
Monique approaching the cake

Monique, cutting the cake
Not that I had 5 pieces that night.

Turkce Iki + Aerin

Birthday girl at Sky Bar

Drunk Charlie and sober me

Alana and sketchy waiter

Monique table-dancing

Sketchy dancers

Trippy dancing picture
Still at Sky Bar
Alanyalilar Part II

Beach barnacles
Note the corresponding relationship between amount of schoolwork and quality of weather. Bitter much?

Our Meltem Sokak apartment

The entrance downstairs

Lush flowers along Meltem Sk.

Close-up of pink flower

Neighboring apartment building

The path to the villa
We walk through the woods to class every day

Castle walls and villa
The villa is up in to the right of center near the top, do you see?

View of the villa from the apt.
Can you see the big white house on the far upper left? Yeah. We have to hike all the way up there.

The villa from below
Standing on Kale Yolu Caddesi

People in the kitchen
Pawing at pastries

The sun room

Fatima's hand door knocker

Upstairs in the classroom

The lunch/dining table

Turkce Iki in Gazipasha
We took a class fieldtrip to a place about an hour out of Alanya (Me, Robby, Ayse, Necmiye hanim)

Necmiye hanim and her friend

Bean-picking
And this relates to class how?

Ayse and an excited Rob
Robby loves his beans. ;)

Me chomping on a conquest
These beans were hella good, I have to say.

Rob, Necmiye and me
Necmiye is our professor, FYI. This was after our picnic on the beach.

Me, Necmiye, Ayse

Danny Colligan, everyone.
Danny loves to shock me with his red long underwear. Gets me every time.

Let the peer pressure begin

All messed up and nowhere to go
Ayse dressed me creatively

Still peer pressuring
Too bad there's not a picture of them FORCING a shot down my throat. FORCING I say.

WHAT did you say???
Charlie still claims that he did not, in fact, say that I was a bad dancer.

Getting Robby revved up
For a big night out on the town

Charlie, Rob and me at Sky Bar
The only classy bar we've found as of yet

Summer buddies: Ayse and me

Charlie and Rob looking manly

Aw Pat and Charlie

Turkce Iki!! Rob, Ayse and me

Ayse and me on the platform

Pat, Ayse, me and Turkish men

Club Janus
Note fat German women being hit on, right of center

This needs explanation
One, Pat looking scary. Two, Ayse dancing with GUMBY. Why? We will never know. Four, Robby getting his groove on.

Our little mountain
Note the villa (white, big house) far upper left and the cluster of apartments mid-left

Our mountain from far away

Early morning shadows
Ayse and me mid-run

Anorexic coke-snorting models
Me, Cailin, Aerin, Arvand

All the models
Rob, Moni, me, Cailin, Alana, Aerin, Arvand

Cailin and me pregaming
In Patrick and Arvand's apartment

Aylin and me at Sky Bar

Arvand and Cailin

Everyone dancing at Sky Bar

Girls and my ginormous daquiri

Turkce Iki!!
Ayse jumping the gun

The post-shot face

Charlie and Arvand petting Pat

Turkce Iki, out on the town

Aww...Aer and Robby

Me and Mo

Cyprus group + miffed Monique
Monique, Cailin, Arvand, Alana, Ayse, me

Istanbullus...

...summer 2K6!!!

ATliens!!
I love Arvand because he cuts my hair.

Really, Moni?
Charlie discusses advertising
Konya

WTF??
Aylin. On the front page of the newspaper. Holding a lion. What is going on here?

Scott bey and the caravan saray
En route to Konya

Walking into the caravan saray
For Pat's presentation

Conservative fashion
Konya is noted for being historically one of the most religious and conservative places in Turkey

Mevlevi (dervish) museum

People praying at Rumi's tomb

Outside Rumi's tomb
Notice Charlie's head

Gettin booties

Green dome over Rumi's body

Spring tulips in garden

Large Konya mosque

Citadel park at night

Dre and druuuuunk Danny

Blurry Charlie and Pat
Grr my camera sucks at night photos

Ayse with the nargiyle

Aysh and me

It's not what it looks like

Our second madrasa of the day

Konya skyscraper
Notice the dome on top--that is another Rumi's tomb

Street trolleys
Anamur and Alahan Monastery

Anamur necroplis
About as dead as it looked (pun intended)

The old man and the sea

The girls on solid ground
Aylin, Monique, Aerin, Ayse, Cailin, Alana

Everyone was carsick
As evidenced by Arvand

Surviving mosaic

Close-up of mosaic

Semi-intimate moment
Arvand, Cailin, Alana

PRICELESS

One of my favorite moments

Greek floor mosaic

Hiking up the necropolis

Patrick outside a tomb

Frescoes inside a tomb

More fresco

Revealing the mosaic
The caretaker covers up all the known mosaics with dirt so that they aren't damaged

A really cool god and jaguar
Almost perfectly preserved

Watching Robbie's presentation

Entering the Alahan cave

Monique in the tunnel

View from upper floor of church

Surrounding landscape

Newer part of monastery

Fish statues

Supposedly a dolphin

Cailin's riveting presentation

More lecture

Cool baptistery

Eastern basilica

View into eastern basilica

Inside the church

A real live squinch!!

No comment.

Aww, like peas in a pod.
Andrea, Arvand and Patrick
Pure Caucasian Spring Break 2K6 Part II: Armenia

Beautiful Lake Sevan
This came much later, but I had to put a pretty picture first as a hook ;)

Marshrutka stop in Armenia
My first picture after crossing the border. What a dramatic landscape.

Snowcapped mountains

Republic Square
Government buildings surrounding the huge traffic circle in the nucleus of the city

National Gallery
Also on Republic Square

Famous brandy brewery

The Mother Church of Armenia
Called the Echmiadzin, just a short drive outside of Yerevan

The adjoining seminary

Echmiadzin domes

Weird heads in dome entrance

Weird heads inside too!

Echmiadzin dome

Illustrated bible

A khatchkar
These khatchkars, or cross stones, are hundreds of years old and you can find them at any Armenian church

Aerin and me and a khatchkar

Central Yerevan
Looking across the bridge

Cool shot from car
Armenia is famous for its brandy; this is a brandy company (and other stuff too, it appears)

Alex and his car
Alex was a great guy who took us all over Armenia in his little Soviet car

The valley below Garni

Gnarled tree above valley

Flowered branches

Garni temple
The only Hellenic temple left in Armenia, about 45 min. outside of Yerevan

Close up of Garni

Italian priest at Garni
Unbeknownst to me, priests can be tourists, too--they actuallly exist outside of churches

Aerin and me on the front porch

View from inside Garni

Mesas and rivers below

Khatchkars behind Garni
A basilica existed behind it at one point (built later, obviously, but not maintained like Garni was)

Canyons above Geghard

Aer and me in the stream

Funny rock growth
It looks almost man-made

Geghard Monastery

Outer church at Gheghard
The church continued very deep into the rock to form an AMAZING building

Inside Surp Astvatsatsin
Holy Mother of God Church; note the Islamic influence of the ceiling, which is visible throughout Armenian architecture

Beautiful light on carving

Carvings in rock-hewn church

Geghard is known for the jaguars
Very pagan symbolism, but they still define the monastery

Close-up of jaguar
That was natural light coming in through the hole in the domed ceiling

Dome in the rock church

Tiny chapel cut into rock

Alex and the column
In the upper chapel above the rock church

Looking up a column

Shadowy column

Armenian script around the cross

Peeking down into the rockchurch

Alex on the bridge
Looking pensive

A wishing tree
People tie strips of cloth onto a tree in a religious place to guarantee that their wishes are heard

Soviet sculpture

Mother Armenia
Looking over the city, surrounded by WWII machinery

Close up of Mother Armenia
She's an old battle-axe, ain't she?

View of Yerevan
Not a beautiful city; nowhere near as pretty as Tbilisi

Aerin with Yerevan below

Us on a Soviet tank!

Museum of the Armenian Genocide
It was actually underground, small and very moving. This spike is the symbol of the 1920s genocide by the Turks.

Good times with the mirror
Loving Hotel Aviatrans and my Georgian wine, as evident

I was bored, okay?

Gina and me...
Words can't describe this woman.

Lake Sevan's snowy mountains

Fishermen and dock in Sevan

Adorable mom and pup
There was a daddy dog, too! It was the cutest dog family Aerin and I had ever seen

Walking to churches above lake

Chilly day at Lake Sevan

Smooth lake and mountains
It was much colder in Sevan than in Yerevan, as the elevation was much higher, though they're only 45 min. apart

Bundled Aerin

Astvatsatsin Church
For some reason Shutterfly cuts off the cross on top, and that makes me mad.

Sevan Monastery

More khatchkars

Astvatsatsin and resort behind
Lake Sevan is still a very undeveloped area, which contributes to its beauty

Haghartsin Monastery
Another 45 minutes away from Yerevan, there were 3 churches in this dramatic location

At Haghartsin

Poop on my skirt =(
Don't ask me how it got there

Inside the large church

The apse

Prayer candles
Present in every church

Mongol Mary and child
Carved to save the church from invading Mongols

Hills around monastery

View of Haghartsin
From down the hill a bit

Aerin proud of herself
As she clutches to the side of the tree for dear life ;) Good job, though, Aer, I promise

Aer and me IN the tree

Haghartsin from the road

Early evening in Yerevan

Block on Abovyan Street
A block away from our hotel

Out for a drink by the opera
Mmm fruity cocktails

Driving through a canyon

Sign for Noravank Monastery
In Armenian and Russian, the story of our lives on this break. We'd never been more linguistically stranded.

Foggy churches at Noravank
The closer one is called Surp Astvatsatsin, the farther one St. Karapet

Facade of Surp

The Italians and me
They were up there in the ranks of Most Obnoxious Tourists Ever

Aerin and me atop Surp
Those stairs were scary

St. Karapet, the older church

Surp Astvatsatsin from behind
A really unique church with two built-in floors and a weird staircase up the facade

Caves in the hillside beyond
Probably where the monastery's monks went to pray

Aerin on the wall

St. Karapet's entrance

Famous feature:
The only portrayal of God in sculpture in an Armenian church

Wall of khatchkars

Funny khatchkar
You can't say the guy didn't have a sense of humor.

Driving by dark mountains

More mtns from Alex's car

Mt. Ararat from afar
The mountain where it is traditionally said that Noah landed in the ark

Cloudy Mt. Ararat
Mt. Ararat was visible from almost everywhere in Yerevan, and in the country, but the skies were always cloudy

Ararat through rainy windshield
Also, one of Armenia's most famous cognac brands is named Ararat

One of the last!
Ararat is actually in Turkey, which has caused a significant border dispute between the two countires

Soldiers on the road

Last look at cloudy Ararat

Dramatic Khor Virap Monastery
Ok, I lied, Mt. Ararat is still in the background

Church at Khor Virap

Ladder down into the dungeon
St. Gregory the Illuminator was kept here; it is 60 meters deep, so needless to say, I did not make the trip down
Pure Caucasian Spring Break 2K6 Part I: Georgia

So...where are our bags?
We arrived in Tbilisi at 3:30 AM on a Saturday morning to a fistfight and a hotel goosehunt. Things only got crazier.

Rustaveli Avenue
The main drag of Tbilisi. It had everything: restaurants, bars, clubs, nice clothing stores, etc.

Sidestreet view

Interesting statue

Our fave part of Rustaveli
Soviet buildings and McDonalds

Soviet Academy of Science

The distinctive star
Soviet Academy of Science

Houses overlooking the river

Statue of Rustaveli
Georgia's most revered poet

Government building
On Rustaveli

The Opera House

Aerin gettin' schooled
This was actually a school building, called School #1

Hotties at PS#1

Georgian Parliament

Kashveti Church

Baptistry and church beyond

Crowd outside Kashveti

Just chillin'

Georgian pride

Damn Americans
So when does this come out?

Tavisuplebis moedani
A huge turnaround at one end of Rustaveli

In Tavisuplebis

Same turnaround

Old town Tbilisi
This used to be the wealthy residential section

Decrepit old mansions

Once-elegant doorway
Old town Tbilisi

Sadly past their prime

Pretty window

Woman on her balcony
Old town Tbilisi

Uneven windows

View up to Kartlis Deda
Mother of Georgia monument

Photographer Aerin

Old town street and castle above

Jvaris Mama church
Confusingly, in Georgian "mama" means father

On the side of Jvari Mama

Tbilisi synagogue

Directly below the castle

Aerin in Maidan
An amazing restaurant we just happened to stumble across

Settled in and ready for a feast

Khatchapuri
Cheese pie--a national food served with most meals. Amazing.

Church below Narikala
En route to the fortress

View of Narikala Fortress
From across the Mtkvari River, which runs through the whole city

The left bank from Narikala

The winding Mtkvari

Metekhi and Tsminda Sameba
These churches command the skyline even from below

Looking down on previous church
Old town below castle

Fortress walls
These run all along the hillside

Inside St. Nicholas church
The church inside Narikala Fortress

Kartlis Deda again

Aer and I all up in Narikala

Aerin making a wish
In this region, people tie cloth strips to high branches near religious places to make wishes come true.

Colorful old town
Near the sulphur baths!

Traditional Georgian dancers

Post-performance show

Like ducks in a row

Taking a bow

Close up of the girls

Roofs of the sulphur baths
Tbilisi has sulphur springs, which these baths tap into. Of course we headed in for a dip.

The Royal Bath. Nuff said.
It didn't smell very royal

Our private bath!

Rub a dubdub Mandy's in the tub
Note the murky blue water with things floating in it

Aer Bear in the tub

Metekhi Church
On the left bank of the Mtkvari River

Next to Metekhi
Narikala in the background

Tsminda Sameba Cathedral
Holy Trinity Cathedral, the largest one in the Caucasus. We watched a beautiful part of the mass

The marshrutka to Gori
Literally I was falling out an oily, rusty door as Aerin was crammed between like 43 old people in the back

The Stalin museum
Gori is very proud of Stalin, as he was originally from there

Saluting Stalin

Mold of Stalin on his deathbed

Creepy dead Stalin
This area of the museum was really strange and pitch black; I had to use my flash to even see this portrait.

The house Stalin grew up in
Preserved inside a heinous temple

The temple ceiling

Gori Fortress

Church on Palm Sunday

Yet another Stalin monument

Nice Soviet bloc apartments

More depressingness

Gori fortress again

The ghetto ass bus station
Unbelievable

Packed bus

Pensive kid

One last look across the river
Pre-marshrutka boarding

Khingali and other delights!!
Another amazing Georgian meal

Rustaveli traffic
Finally some sunny weather

Out with David and his friend
David was our wonderful Georgian friend who showed us around the city during our stay

The Mtvari River by night

Cathedral and moon

Only in Georgia

Beautifully lit building
Rustaveli Avenue at night

The opera house in the dark

Another opera house shot

Beautiful Jvari Monastery
On a hill dramatically overlooking Mtskheta, this church is supposedly where St. Nino set up her cross

Lake below Jvari
There were cows down there

David and his dad in the car
Our cheerful hosts to Mtskheta (a mouthful, isn't it?)

Mtvari and Aragvi rivers meet

Foggy mountains

Windblown Aerin and me

The Georgian cross
A bad picture, but a typical Georgian cross; St. Nino used a grape vine and her own hair to create the first cross

A last look at Jvari

Sveti-Tskhoveli Cathedral
In the town of Mtskheta below Jvari

Bull's head on fortifying wall

The inner cathedral

Above the entrance

Jvari from the cathedral

Interesting outer wall decor

Misty mountains on a rainy day

Mtskheta from across the river

Parliament at night

Typical old-style Tbilisi house
And dervish statue?

Lighted storefronts

Slightly tacky, but great

Au Sans Souci with David
More Georgian wine...mmm

Last look at Tbilisi by night
Blair's visit and Side

Beautiful Saturday at the beach

Our castle mountain

We always stake out this spot

My Coca Cola commercial

Blair and me at the castle
DSCN1184.JPG 2006-04-06

Beautiful flowers on terrace

Close up on purple flowers

Funny sunbathing cat

Mountain across the harbor

Me in the castle

Blair above Dalmatas beach

Blair and me

Funny close up

Spiky flowers

En route to Side (SEE-DAY)

Side forum
Our Friday daytrip

Exposed mosaic under the dirt
These were outside former market stores

Not sure what this is

Walking to the museumand theater

Pieces of city wall
How apotropaic of them.

I just can't stop
It never gets old.

Cool statue

Pretty wildflower

Blair and his boyfriend
In the Side museum

Greek inscription

The state forum
Side

Danny lecturing

Blair and me at the forum
A little blurry unfortunately

Side street (that's SEE-DAY)

All that's left of the basilica
Most common scenic Side view

Necessary tourist pic

Another basilica shot

Mounted in West Virginia City
Desperately trying to be American, this 'dude ranch' played Bonanza nonstop. It was a ghost town. Nuff said.

Me and my pony
There were also tepees here.

Heading out
To the wild...Appalaichans?

The hills around us
We kind of felt like we were in a painting

More hillyness

Cruise ships dwarfing the jetty
Tourist season has officially begun.

Good omen for our trip
Blair's and my bus to Antalya

Blair and me at the old harbor
In Antalya

Let's try that again

Much better.

Arma, where we ate dinner
It was Blair's and my one and a half year anniversary, and it was the best meal I have had at a restaurant in Turkey

Blair and me at Arma
Aspendos

Restored bridge
En route to Aspendos

Orange grove and mountains

River and mountains

Aqueduct tower

Ayse in the aqueduct tower

Bird flu coop

The Aspendos aqueduct

Onward to the acropolis

Patrick getting comfortable
Pre-nymphaum presentation

Me during my presentation
Riveting, I'm sure.

The remarkable theater
One of the best-preserved ancient theaters in Turkey; many concerts are still given here

Close up in theater
Notice the VOMITORIUM up top

The skene
A wooden stage would have come out from this

These turrets were not original
The theater was actually used as a fortress at one point in time

Ayse and me and my arm

Arvand, Charlie, Ayse

Alana, Cailin, Rob, Aerin

Original Seljuk paint
Solar Eclipse of the Heart

The sun through my goggles
First contact, though they all looked the same with the long shutter speed

The castle mtn. before
The light is already becoming eerily white

Cailin, awaiting totality

Rob, Arvand, Aerin, Aylin

Later on
The moon was starting to chip away at the bottom right of the run

Mutually weirded out
Aerin and her goat friends

Goaties! They smelled.

Abandoned Greek Orthodox church

Inside of the church

Villagers outside the church

Totality is near

Goat herder

Sunset at 2 PM
The temperature dropped by about 15 degrees and the sun set...it was so strange

TOTALITY
Also came out weird b/c of long exposure, but was just a white ring around a dark circle

Post-totality dorks
Arvand and Aerin

Progression of the eclipse
Admittedly stolen from Patrick
Cyprus!

The Tasucu harbor
We left from this SE Turkish port, our ferry was the catamaran behind the front one

The Denizkizi, or mermaid
Tasucu

Cyprus in sight!

Taxiing to the hotel

Out the window

Check out those mountains
The north side of Cyprus is divided by thin, jagged, tooth-like mountains, at the top of which is a crusader castle

Our beautiful hotel

The hotel's beach
Complete with a boat on blocks. Is that like Cyprus goes trailor trash?

The Denizkizi beach

Playing in the water
It was cold, but we were not deterred.

Mountains and crashing waves

View from the hotel

Our hotel was the left one

Rocky outcrop

Waves on rocks

It was just so pretty

Look closely...
And you can see Ayse on Arvand's shoulders

Bushes and the mountains
The last one, I swear!

Lefkosa, or northern Nicosia
The only divided city left in the entire world, Nicosia is split between Turkish and Greece sectors of the island

This night changed everything
Because we met Rifat Bey and his sweet stretch Mercedes, which would shuttle us all over Cyprus for the rest of our trip

Arvand looking stylish
With our little stretch Benz in the background

Gearing up for yet another castl

Medieval me

St. Hilarion castle from below
Contrary to its name, it wasn't really that funny.

Northern Cyprus
From my vantage point inside St. Hilarion Castle

Rocky St. Hilarion Castle

Vaulted passage
St. Hilarion castle

Another mountain view
St. Hilarion castle

The finest groin I've seen
Groin VAULT, that is

Sometimes you just gotta go.

Window view
St. Hilarion Castle

More mountain views
St. Hilarion Castle

Ayse and me
St. Hilarion Castle

Arched windows
St. Hilarion Castle

The Byzantine church
St. Hilarion castle

Interesting nave
St. Hilarion Castle

Hidden original painted column
St. Hilarion Castle, Byzantine church

Closeup of painted column
St. Hilarion Castle, Byzantine Church

With our faithful driver
Rifat Bey, Cailin, Alana, Ayse, me

Ayse is the only brave one

Freezing Ayse

Arvand and wet Ayse

What's wrong with this picture?
Hint: look for the driver

To Girne harbor!
Me, Ayse, Arvand

The fortress at Girne harbor
Girne is the urban center of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus

The amazingly clear water

Boats at Girne harbor

Pretty Girne sailboats

Mossy jetty

Flying Turkish and TRNC flags

A soldier below his flag
With Ataturk looking on

Arvand delicately sniffing away

What are these called??
They're beautiful, though

Quaint street to Girne harbor

Harbor in the sunset

Girne sunset

The long road home
Actually about 15 minutes

Beautiful sky from the car

Southern Cyprus day trip
We had to cross the border and a UN buffer zone to enter Greek Southern Cyprus, which was amazing

Shelled out house inside zone
I probably could have been shot for taking this picture, but luckily they were very inattentive at the border

A favorite of mine
Beautiful Greek houses behind UN buffer zone

In the zone
...the UN buffer zone

The first of many churches

Rusting UN sign
Momento of an era of extreme tension and close vigilance at the border

Young professionals crossing?

Old Greek house in Nicosia

Band processing in the street
We fortuitously ended up in Greek Cyprus on Greek Independence Day

Parading highschoolers
Nicosia

A marching band

Greek and Greek Cypriot flags

A wonderful Italian lunch
In central pedestrian Nicosia

Letting the inner child out
Arvand and Ayse

Alana swinging

The new kids on the block
Ayse, Cailin, Alana, Arvand

I spy two wonderful things
The Buck and Mickey D's. Hit both of them up in one afternoon after a full lunch? Oh yeah.

Ahhh the sweet taste
Made no less sweet by the outrageous prices (the Greek Cypriot pound does not do good things to the dollar)

Greek Cypriot pride

How it's done in Hotlanta
Arvand and me

Kitten on rooftop

A house near the border

Coming home from Nicosia

More views from the taxi

Rifat Bey's house for tea
Alana, Ayse and Arvand with his nice Syrian wife

Last look at Cyprus!
On the ferry

Out the ferry window

We made the ferry!
Despite weird Turkish daylight savings time and a sea sickness-inducing storm, we made it back to the mainland

Beautiful Tasucu

Mountains along the coast
Next we had to brave these in a 7-hour long, packed bus. But that's another story.

Happy to be on solid ground
Post-ferry trauma

Sunset from the bus
Crusader Castles

Krak de Chavaliers
A beautiful and amazingly well-preserved Crusader castle

Walking into the Krak
The joke never gets old

I believe the eating hall
Krak des Chevaliers

Tower and terraced hills
Krak des Chevaliers

Towards the village
And all the Krak houses below...haha (Krak des Chevaliers)

Interior complex
Krak des Chevaliers

The basilica turned mosque
Upon the Muslim conquering of the Frankish castle (Krak des Chevaliers)

Beautiful colonnade
Krak des Chevaliers

Look for inscription at right
Krak des Chevaliers

Tourist time at the Krak

The moat and cistern
Krak des Chevaliers

Terraced landscape
Krak des Chevaliers

Perfect arches
Krak des Chevaliers

Ayse, Arvand and me in the sun
Krak des Chevaliers

Arvand up above us
Krak des Chevaliers

Ayse and Jinnyn
Krak des Chevaliers

Stuck as Arvand laughs
Krak des Chevaliers

Markab Castle
Very imposing in its dark basalt building

Inside Markab
Interestingly, 6-pointed stars prevail in a lot of architecture, Christian, Jewish and Muslim alike, from this period

Haha stupified after a long day
Markab Castle

Markab's exterior walls
Markab Castle

More Mediterranean dusk

Mediterranean sunset
Markab Castle

Sunset through a window
Markab Castle

My castle! The Sahyun
I gave a tour of the castle and lectured here

Castle town and the ocean
Sahyun Castle, also known to Syrians as Saladin's Castle (its Muslim conquerer)

The distinctive rock needle
170,000 tons of rock, it used to support a drawbridge back in the day. (Sahyun Castle)

Looking up from rock channel
Dork note: this huge rock channel was cut by hand by the Crusaders. Pretty impressive. (Sahyun Castle)

Cailin, Coury, Jinnyn, Alana
Good times in the Mozaik Hotel back in Antakya after another successful border crossing

Alana and Aerin

Prof. Redford's excavation
A site called Kinet Hoyuk in southeastern Turkey

Touring Kinet Hoyuk
Also interestingly, this is the closest port in Turkey to Iraq, so there was a lot of action here a few yeares ago

Yilan Kalesi (castle) from below
An Armenian castle

Pretty flowers at castle
Yilan Castle

It was a HIKE up there
Yilan Castle

Carving at castle gate
Yilan Castle

Regrouping at the top
Yilan Castle

Landscape below the castle
Yilan Castle

Cistern opening
Yilan Castle

Interior of Yilan Castle
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Me atop a tower
Yilan Castle

The castle walls
Yilan Castle

Coury and me atop Yilan
Yilan Castle

Alana and Aylin--roomies

Wildflowers in the sun
Yilan Castle

Butterfly on wildflowers!
Yilan Castle

Cailin and Coury

Arvand dancing his way down
Yilan Castle

Me and the Jacob family
Yilan Castle
Onward to Damascus

Waterwheel at Hama

Waterwheel and its aqueduct
These functioned to pick up the water from the river and dump it into aqueducts

Camel rides!
I had to do a pretend picture of Charlie and Danny to pull this one off

The desert en route to Damascus

More desert

This was my first desert, so I
got a little excited

Statue of Assad in the desert

No honking in Damascus?

Damascus boulevard

Boulevard leading to old city

Old striped mosque
Mixed basalt and limestone, typical of Syrian architecture

Green tiled minaret

Minarets at dusk

Walking into fresh food bazaar

Unidentified foods at bazaar
Mainly I like the Arabic numbers on them

Spicy

Cailin spicin' it up

Fishies for sale

Flounders for sale

Syrian boy making bread
He invited us into his shop for a closer look

The brick oven

Hard at work
Too bad we never got a taste...

Nargile is good
Coury, Aerin, Cailin and I stopped after walking around to have some tea and nargile

Ghostly Coury
Coury and his sister Jinnyn, who did the program 3 years ago, tagged along with us to Syria

Smoky Cailin

Out and about in Damascus

The grand souq, or bazaar

Anti-American/Israeli signs
These were hung all over the bazaar in English, French and Arabic

Dangling above a shop

Out of the souq

Damascus Ottoman buildings
Distinct because of their jutting second stories

In front of the Umayyad Mosque
Very conservatively dressed Muslim were the norm around here

Umayyad inner courtyard

Columns lining inner courtyard
Umayyad Mosque, built in 750 AD; this was always a holy place, as it used to be a Roman basilica

Not really sure, but pretty
Still in courtyard

Druid girls
As if we weren't obvious enough, they made female tourists wear these horrible robes to cover ourselves completely

Inside the Umayyad

Tomb of John the Baptist
Inside a mosque, interestingly enough!

Another courtyard view

The mosque through columns

Holy women
Aerin, me, Jinnyn, Alana (was that sacriligeous?)

Me being a tourist idiot

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Scary propaganda

A mosque, I suppose

Just cruisin'
...through the streets of old town Damascus

The resemblance is uncanny
Bashar Assad (the chinless yet charismatic president whose propaganda you see all over the place) and Basil

Fun at the Damascus museum

Saladin's Tomb
A Muslim hero during the Crusades, his tomb was bathed in eerie green light

Unnatural-looking tiles inside

Typical Damascus alley

Striped wall and bike

More Damascus alley
En route to lunch

We ate here a few times
There are a lot of former mansions turned restaurants

Wowzas
There were also a lot of amazing vintage cars

Abandoned building

How hot is this car right now

Bab Charqi
The original gate to the Christian quarter

Syrian kid by old car

St. Anania's House
The Damascus Christian quarter

St. Anania's ancient chapel

St. Anania's crest

Syrian license plate

Aerin and Charlie
This is one for the grandkids

Shrine (?) in Christian quarter

Another church

The Gate of Thomas
St. Paul escaped out this gate in a basket after his conversion--it was really interesting to see the Bible in action

Yet another Damascus street

Pilgrims processing into Umayyad

Self-flagellating pilgrims
This was one of the most amazing things I have ever seen in my entire life

Damascus traffic

Girly drinks at the Cham Hotel
Aerin, Ayse and me...not dressed for the occasion. It's not our fault.

Pretty drinks and snacks!

Another round
Called "White Ladies"...could they be more appropriate?

Blurry view of Damascus from bar

EWWWW
The Damascus hotel was disgusting

Ayse running, Patrick attacking
We never did manage to catch that roach, so we never showered in there again.
Forays into Northern Syria

The good old Roman road
To the middle of NOWHERE

Cute Syrian kids gave us flowers

Aww

Yet another one of the kids

Missing arch
Look for the faint Byzantine cross in the middle of the post and lintel arch (the flat stone on the top)

Beautiful iris among ruins

Ancient olive orchards

Remains of a church

Monastery remains

Pretty pink and yellow flowers

Goaties!
Look at his ice blue eye

More furry goaties

Facade of St. Symeon Church
This church is lookin' pretty good for having been built in 750

Close up on facade
Architecture vocab: This is a triple apsed entrance--If I have to learn it, you do too.

Cross on facade

Walking inside church

Fallen block with cross
I don't know why I like these things so much, I just can't stop taking pictures of them

Arvand lecturing
St. Symeon is reputed to have lived on top of this (it used to be a tall column) for over 50 years

Another view of the interior

A new generation of saints

The more austere monastery

To the baptistery

Gettin' baptized

The surrounding countryside

Climbing up the arch

The fan club
Arvand, Patrick, Charlie and a bunch of curious Syrian teens

Heading up to abandoned church

Sheep herds near church

The group walking up

Dramatic church

Arches in church

View out the window

Please don't fall...
Aleppo

View from Baron Hotel room

A park in the heart of Aleppo
Note the covered women...call me un-PC, but I think they look like lampshades. Maybe that's just me.

Aleppo at night

HILAROIUS.
Probably a circumcision picture

The Syrian Glamour Shots.

Center of Aleppo at night

Umayyad Mosque by night

Pedestrian street in old Aleppo

Umayyad minaret

Walking into Umayyad Mosque
It was actually closed for cleaning; the Islamic world cultural celebrations began the next week

Entry plaza of Umayyad
Arab mosques are much more open air than Turkish mosques

Syrian men outside mosque

Old city, looking up at citadel

Syrian women

Doves in an ancient arch

Hospital of Arghun al-Kamili
An ancient Muslim mental asylum

Needless to say...
We went a little crazy

Arvand, Charlie and Aerin
Ayse's presentation was too much for them

Looking out of the souq
This has been a functional bazaar for seven HUNDRED years

The market overseers
This very office has also been inhabited for 700 years

Armenian cross
We visited the Christian quarter of Aleppo with our guide Hagop, who was an Armenian Christian himself

Forty Martyrs Armenian Church
The oldest Christian church in either Aleppo or all of Syria...not really sure. Make of that what you will.

Forty Martyrs Armenian Church
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Coca Cola Light in Arabic!
Aaah the elixir of life.

Syrian men at restaurant
Clearly I am fascinated with these people.

Coury and me at the cafe

Coury and me again
And my fake Longchamp.

Aleppo Citadel

Entering Aleppo Citadel

The glassis
The unscalable walls around the amazing castle

Water nymphs all
Aleppo Citadel

Path in the citadel

Old Aleppo
Aleppo and Damascus compete for title of oldest continuously inhabited city in the entire world

Old Aleppo 2

The last one, I promise
Limestone limestone everywhere

Group at the top of the citadel
Rob, Aerin, Danny, Ayse, Andrea, me

Hmm
Probably written in Crusader blood.

So I lied
The Uymayyad from above

A plaza in the Christian quarter

En route to Sissi Hotel bar
One of the many tiny, charming sidestreets of Aleppo

Ayse and me in the cave
The hotel used to be a mansion with huge caves underneath for storage...now for playing

Hagop, Pat, Coury, Rob

The girls and Hagop
Me, Jinnyn, Cailin, Ayse, Aer, Hagop

Aerin and me

So...
we might have crashed a bachlorette party

We danced with the Syrian girls

Me and my cigarillo
And that is what they're actually called. Don't freak out, Dad--I only had one. And it tasted like chocolate.

Hagop, me and the cigarillo

Aerin and Rob
Around Antakya

St. Peter Church
Built into the side of a mountain, St. Peter preached here

The ancient citywalls of Antioch

Old Antakya from citadel

The Orontes river snaking away

Antakya Mozaik Muzesi

Huge preserved mosaic

Me and some Anatolian lions

Pervy mosaic
Black slave with huge...you know

The statues are Aer's favorites

The start of the "hard route"
Little did we know.

Mouth of the death tunnel
After clambering over boulders and up waterfalls, the going only got worse.

The other side...thank God
And then we had to go back through.

One of a few Roman engravings
It says something like "Divine Titus and Vespasian"

Another cool engraving
Also at the other end of the tunnel, it is an evil eye

We made it! Arvand and me
ATLien style

Yet another Mediterranean sunset
Perge

Charlie asnooze
En route to Perge

Underfed homeless dog

Remains of the forum with mtns

Forum columns

Interesting wildflower

More ruins and mountains

Another pretty wildflower

Area under excavation

Tall reeds

Roman road from acropolis

The class at the acropolis

Countryside view

Distant mesas and mountains

Me looking dorky in my SFS shirt

Alana and Shaun

Decorative column along road

Walking out Perge city gates

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Side of Roman road and mtn.

Ancient Perge gates

Our canine friend
He joined us for our picnic, so I snuck him some food

Even more forum and mountains

Aerin presenting on Roman baths

Monique and Ayse

Into the stadium

My shadow

Charlie lecturing on stadia

Boys stretching for their race

HAH boys stretching

To the starting line

Arvand is in the lead...

Taking a breather at the finish

The champion in his wreath
Termessos

Temple of Artemis
At the flat part of the mountain, before we began our hike up

Where we were headed
In the Toros mountains

Butt shot
(Thanks, Aer)

Me being a big fat tourist
Temple of Artemis

Group hiking up to Termessos

Ridge at 'saddle' of Termessos

The class regrouping
After the steep hike up, about to head to the theater for the lecture

HAHA
Good times in class

Sarcophagi in the fog
Termessos is known for the necropoli that cover the mountain sides

Newer Roman ruins

Roman Arvand
Perhaps performing the classical work "Menlo Park"

Ancient theater
Amazing views in the background

Mountain fog

Seating and orchestra
I think this originally seated 4000

Dramatic stage exits

Alana lecturing on Greek theater

Arvand gracing the stage

Monique and Arvand in "Medea"

The mountains beyond

More sarcophogi

Whew more dead people

They just don't stop

Patrick looting the sarcophagus

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Sylvia Hanim
Timur is probably off somewhere slaughtering infidels

Amazing tombs cut into the rock

Alanyalilar in the tombs
Including Big Basil and Little Timur
Sunday brunch at Nili's

Nili Hanim's house
So...when do I move in?

The beautiful Mediterranean view

Arvand
Looking smashing as the waves are crashing

Patrick
A little bit wet

The waves are about to get me

Nili Hanim greeting us

Ayse looks sad

Beautiful wildflowers

More pretty flowers

Everyone enjoying lunch

The back facing the sea
So, again, when do I get to move in?

Roommates!! Andrea, Aerin and me

Roomies part 2

We look out upon the sea...
The coast is always changin'

Bundled Aerin

Arvand pulling a Michael Jackson

"Islamic porn"

Robby and Charlie

Aww, Cailin and Ayse

Real World Alanya group shot
Minus Alana and Danny, who didn't come

Oh shit, it's a turtleneck
Rob can't resist now

Rob loves the turtlenecks
LOVES them.

Charlie and me

Pat shipwatching

Me and Moni
Alanyalilarlarlar

Alanya Harbor
View from our castle hike

Alanya castle
Looking towards Dalmatas Beach

Flag flying on Alanya castle
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Climbing up the castle wall
The annual tradition of walking down the castle wall with Scott Bey

Monique, Charlie and Andrea
Atop the castle wall before I trolloped up myself

Clambering down the wall
Wet steps and gusting wind made it harder than it looks!

The arsenal and aquaduct
At the harbor looking at the base of Alanya castle

Boats in Alanya harbor
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Man fishing off ferry boat
Alanya harbor in the afternoon

Cat in entryway

View of beach from the villa

Huka love
Patrick's beloved huka

Me and my sanitary tip
Just the tip, just for a second, just to see how it feels

Aerin getting cozy
And slightly drunk. From one glass of wine.

Cailin and Danny boy

Aerin and Rob

Patty Mayonnaise hukaing

Passing the huka

Charlie smoking the huka
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Cailin and Danny lookin cozy

Me and the sanitary tip again

Me hukaing
Can't get enough of that sanitary tip

Aerin and Rob
Aer knows where it's at with the sanitary tip

Education Volunteers center
On the not-so-nice side of Antalya, but a really nice facility; a place for kids to come after school. Really cute kids.

Boys at the center
Note the classic bully with two cronies. Hilarious.

Girls in class
Education Volunteers of Turkey, Antalya branch

Schoolgirls in uniform
More cute kids at the center, which caters not solely to but especially to Kurdish immigrants

West Antalya
The mostly immigrant-populated part of Antalya where the center was

Aerin, Cailin and me at Cello

Hmmmm
Ayse shimmying with ginormous German woman. Helga hasn't felt that young since 1965.

Greek dancing in Cello

Robby with a ciggy
Dedekodu

Alana in her birthday pants

Alana's birthday cake

Nev--my host family's restaurant

The fam at Sunday lunch
Mustafa Bey, Gulseren Hanim, Ozlem and me

Me with Gulseren and Mustafa

The ladies
Gulseren, Ozlem and me

Our little castle mountain

Girls in the boys' apartment
Cailin, Ayse, Ozlem, Gulsah, me pre-Jenga

My host sister Ozlem!

Chaaaaarles and Aer Bear

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A rousing game of Jenga

Aww

A shocking Basil appearance
Who would've thought we'd run into Basil at the bar on a Thursday night? Mutual surprise ensued.

Danny loves Cailin

The feeling is not mutual

Danny and Arvand doing the robot
Hahahha

This isn't even alcohol-induced
Study abroad Orientation

Hanging out at the hotel bar
Patrick, Ayse, Aerin, Charlie, Danny, Cailin, Me

Blue Mosque
The AMAZING night view from the top of Hotel Nomade

Turkish government building
Where the mayor of Istanbul works

CATS CATS EVERYWHERE
As in Greece and Egypt, street cats are EVERYWHERE

On the way to Eminonu

The tramvay

Ferry boats in the Bosphorus
The boat we took on our Bosphorus tour looked just like those

Karakoy and Galata Tower

Me in the stern of the ferry
Bosphorus ferry tour

The First Bosphorus Bridge
Bosphorus ferry tour

View of Istanbul skyline
Bosphorus ferry tour

Seagulls following the ferry
Bosphorus ferry tour

Castle on Bosphorus
Bosphorus ferry tour

View of castle from ferry
Bosphorus ferry tour

View from ferry
Bosphorus ferry tour

The girls at Yoros Castle
Aylin, Andrea, Ayse, Alana, Amanda, Cailin, Aerin

Yoros Castle
Anadolu Kavagi

Yoros Castle
Anadolu Kavagi

Yoros Castle
Anadolu Kavagi

Me at Yoros Castle
The object of our hike at the ferry stop in Anadolu Kavagi

Fish for sale in Anadolu Kavagi
This is a small town on the Asian side, known for its wonderful fish.

A parting view of Anadolu Kavagi
Bosphorus ferry tour

Cailin, Alana, Arvand, me
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Life savers on the ferry
Bosphorus ferry tour

View from ferry
Bosphorus ferry tour

Snowy view from ferry
Bosphorus ferry tour

View far up the Bosphorus
Pictured: my future summer mansion on the waterfront.

The Hippodrome
The center of Byzantium

Basilica cistern
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Basilica cistern
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Basilica cistern
Medusa's head at base of column

Medusa's head

Basilica cistern
Another medusa's head

Yedi Kule courtyard
Concerts are held here in the summer

Looking down into a tower

The Marmara through turrets

Constantinople's sea walls

In one of the seven towers

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Entrance to covered bazaar
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Jewelry in the covered bazaar

Inside the Haghia Sophia

Look from balcony to apse

Angel mosaic through a lattice

Haghia Sophia mosaic of Christ

Another mosaic

The story of our lives

The museum used to be a house

Roman house's floor
Istanbul Mosaic Museum

Mosaic monster

Inside the Tunel
This goes between Karakoy and Taksim and has only one stop

Scott Bey lecturing

Galata's amazing view
Originally built by Italian merchants, this is now a restaurant and tourist sight-seeing spot

Galatasaray area

A church below

The Golden Horn

Besiktas and the Bosphorus

Suleymaniye mosque from afar

The First Bosphorus bridge

Minarets dominate the skyline

Directly across the Bosphorus

Mosques and the shiny straits

Istiklal Caddesi under snow

Georgetown veiled

Buttery Iskender kebap

Green Mosque (Bursa)

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Ulu Camii

Looking up at Ulu Camii

Covered woman on her cell

Inside Koza Han
The old silk market, which had a mosque and housing

Women at the fountain
Bursa

Imperial tomb

Inside the tomb complex

Imperial Muslim tombs
True to Islam, there is no cover on this tomb so that the soul can ascend to heaven

Entering Topkapi

Topkapi never saw a finer harem

Full stands at the soccer game

Galatasaray on the field
Playing a less good Black Sea team

Close up of players

Galatasaray about to score

Post-game Mickey D's
With our new scarves!

Cheese wrapped in goat fur
Ewwwwww

Charlie and his beloved

Rocking out at the fish place

Oh Arvand

Mustache fun

A salt with a deadly weapon

These fish are called 'hamsi'
You eat them whole. Until someone pulls out the skeleton and shows it to you and you almost vom.

We ate that.

Pat chowing

Little Timur

Girl you wanna come to my hotel
Hotel party in Nomade

In a Taksim club

Alana, Rob and me

The cab back
Cailin, Alana, Aerin and me

Patrick, Rob, Andrea and me

Aerin and me
We coudln't manage to coordinate the smile and the pucker

Monique, Rob, Patrick

Rustem Pasa Camii
Known for its amazingly intricate Iznik tiles

Egyptian Spice Bazaar

Sulemaniye Camii

Entrance to Sulemaniye Camii
The entrance that the sultan used

View of Bosphorus
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View of Bosphorus
From behind the Sulemaniye Camii (mosque)

Arvand, Danny, Andrea, Ayse
Rug store fun

Ramazan and his rugs

Uzbek Arvand
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Andrea and me
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Aerin in the rug store

Rug pile
Ramazan's rug store in Istanbul near the covered bazaar

Pomegranates on the street
Street cart of fruit

Coury and Jinnyn on Edirne bus

Bayezid Kulaniyesi
Ottoman mental hospital! Damn, send me there.

Patient in Bayezid Kulaniyesi
This is what I'm going to look like in 10 years

Beyazid Kulaniyesi in Edirne
The Turkuaz 13 minus me in the outpatient quarters

Arvand, Ayse, Charlie
One of the outpatient residences at Bayezid Kulaniyesi...Ayse fit perfectly in the 5'2" doorways

Statue of Sinan
Architect of Turkey's most beautiful mosques (Edirne)

Minaret at Ucsefereli Camii
Very original mosque in Edirne, named for its three minarets

Selimiye Camii
One of Edirne's beautiful mosques

Selimiye Camii
Courtyard in front of the mosque (Edirne)

Inside Selimiye Camii
In the balcony (women's seating) facing the mihrab

Selimiye Camii
Beautiful domed mosaic roof of the mosque

The Ecumenical Patriarchate
Where his O Holiness, the head of the Greek Orthodox Church, takes visitors

Relic in church
Supposedly part of the column Jesus was tied to when he was flogged while carrying the cross to Golgotha

Me on the Ankara bus

Central Anatolian women
At the entrance to Ataturk's mausoleum (Ankara)

Lions guarding mausoleum
Modeled after archeological findings in central Anatolia, this lion guards the entrance to Ataturk's mausoleum (Ankara)

Wall leading to mausoleum
(Ankara)

Ataturk's Mausoleum
(Ankara)

Ataturk's Mausoleum
Not surprisingly the best-maintained thing I've seen yet in Turkey, aside from soccer fields. (Ankara)

Snowy view of Ankara
Looking from side of Ataturk's Mausoleum (Ankara)

Portrait of Ataturk
The one, the only (Ankara, museum at Ataturk's mausoleum)

Flag flying at the mausoleum
Ankara

Girls at Osman Bey's

Aerin with her drink and cigar

Boys with cigars

Cocktail at Osman Bey's

Mevlut, Antalya's Parliament rep

Girls loose in Parliament