This is the motley crew with which we traveled in the far eastern wilds of Turkey.
Fish farming in a recent dam-formed lake.
In Malatya we visit one of many apricot shops. Malatya is famous for its apricots.
So many choices! Larry stands behind the apricot "atoms," one of which we share.
Ellen looks for (and eventually finds) the amazing chocolate covered apricot treats.
Filling time before departure, Larry, Ellen, Doris and Gisela (taking picture) enjoy a cup of tea.
We wait outside the elaborate portal to this beautifully preserved caravanserai while Onur seeks the keeper of the key.
Looking out of the prayer room into the inn's courtyard.
We enter one of the small, private sleeping chambers.
This 13th century caravanserai is well preserved.
The sign says "caravanserai," but Onur says that's not quite true, it's really an inn (han). I'm not sure of the difference.
We never figured out what this large raised platform was for.
Beautiful arcade along the central courtyard
This structure has unusually elaborate decorative motifs. Most Seljuk inns are stark in design.
The local residents are curious if not particularly friendly.
After landing from space, we look down on this amazing volcanic crater.
Snow in June
Our German friends; Gisela is on the far left. These are her images (except for the satellite shot)
We drive our space vehicle right into the crater!
Yesterday's Hurriyet (Aug. 24, 2010) newspaper states that this volcano is likely to erupt again. Gak!
Since the last eruption was in the 15th century, though, we feel safe.
The crater's dimensions are enormous: 10 km. circumferance; 3-4 km. diameter. (is this math right?)
At 9,000 feet, the sun's strong up here, despite the snow on the rim.
We search for the hot spring, evidence that the volcano is still alive below the lake.
Really, now. Does this look like we're inside a volcano?
Larry and Onur contemplate that and other questions of geology.
The others confer; there is little consensus.
This 16th century educational center is now used as contemporary municipal offices for the charming town of Bitlis.
Next to the municipal center, a rock music festival entertains local school children at 10:30 in the morning!
"Bitlis Belediyesi" means "Bitlis municipal center."
Some of these rock fans are pretty young.
And some are kind of old.
We stood on top of these scary walls. Originally a Urartian castle, these ruins are more recent.
Some need further strengthening.
View from the top, amid the ruins of a 12 century mosque.
It's a steep drop to the right.
First Urartians, later Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks, and Ottomans used this fortress. Excavations began in 2005.
Onur has his hands full keeping us informed of the multiple civilizations that occupied these lands.
The highest ruins are from medieval times.
One visitor wears chador, something we only occasionally see in Turkey.
The castle is now a museum.
The "Ulu Camii," or Great Mosque is one of the oldest in Anatolia, built 1156-1157.
The mosque is known for its leaning minaret and the beautiful 1000 year old courtyard in the previous photo.
Our last hotel was another 5-star one, but a big disappointment. Food was so so, music was outrageously loud. But the company was great.
Many thanks to Gisela (front, left) for sharing her pictures with us.
In 1998, thirteen of these stelae were found by a farmer in the small town of Hakkari, in the southeast corner of Turkey.
Nothing like these had ever before been found in Anatolia.
Every stele depicts the upper portion only of a human figure, never the legs, and always clutching a drinking vessel.
We ponder the meaning of these unusual ancient sculptures from the 15th to 11th century B.C.E.
This master weaver is creating an intricate silk carpet.
Silk carpets have up to one million hand knots per meter.
This looks like a large kilim.
Our carpet salesman is also a rock singer.
We take the boat to Akdamar Island not far from the shore of Lake Van.
We approach the island and catch a glimpse of the 10th century Armenian Church, our tour goal.
We approach the church and get the first glimpse of the elaborate sculpted vine encircling the structure.
A closer look reveals figures amidst the vine.
The lower reliefs depict warriors, saints, creatures and geometric designs.
The reliefs surround the building; they are amazing!
Entry
The interior frescoes are badly worn.
Many, though, are still fairly clear.
As we wait for the return boat trip, we take in the beauty of the island and the surrounding Lake Van.
Lunch on the beach is a huge affair. This is the view in one direction.
We enter the 11th - 12th century Seljuk graveyard, tentatively listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
These gravestones are like nothing we have ever seen before.
Our group treads carefully among the long deceased citizens of Old Ahlat, near the northwest shore of Lake Van.
These burial chambers formed a tumulus before excavation, and contained a king and his horse.
Nearby is the Bayindir Kumbet, the burial place of the ruler of the White Sheep state.
We enter this handmade cane shop, where the master ("usta") carver makes and sells gorgeous wooden canes.
This carver works a lathe to produce one of these very special canes.
I regret not buying one of the finished canes (on the left). Bill Clinton did when he was here.
On the road, as we approach the palace, we view part of the palace complex. These buildings are above the palace.
A small mosque near the palace
The palace itself, built between 1685 and 1784, overlooks the province of Dogubeyazit.
This doors to the Palace were once covered in gold leaf. They were removed by invading Russians in 1917 and brought to the Hermitage.
View of a shepherd's cottage from the courtyard of the palace
The stone details throughout the palace are gorgeous.
A lot of renovation/preservation has occurred recently in this smaller version of a Topkapi-like administrative/residential center.
Uh, oh. Are you sure you want to go there Larry?
"Aaargh! Which way is out?"
Back up in the sunshine, we view more beautiful stonework.
We enter the harem, or living quarters.
These cellars stored supplies, unlike the dungeons, which "stored" people.
This small, ornate, "turbe" (tomb) sits in the main courtyard.
Entryway from the courtyard to several of the palace's 366 rooms
I couldn't resist this picture.
Where are the books?
The tree of life adorns the interior of the mosque.
Mihrab
The intertwining vines remind me of Celtic art.
Another visitor takes a closer look.
More spectacular ornamentation
Welcome pineapple
Arslan again
This palace is unusual in that it has a central heating system, running water, and sewage system.
For example . . .
The kitchens fed many, including the palace staff and peasants who relied on the palace's "soup kitchen."
Harem room, with view
Dining room
Dining room detail
After the tour, I investigate the nearby cemetery.
Last view from the bus as we leave the palace grounds
As we ride by the border with Iran, we view a surreal volcanic moonscape that is typical of the area.
We are at the same altitude as the snow in early June.
We cross a precarious, swinging bridge over a gorge and stream to reach the waterfall and a place to have tea.
Hang on! (Gisela's photo)
This picture of the pretty waterfall is the last I took before my camera broke for good. Sigh.
Our first stop in Van is the 16th century mosque designed by Sinan, and renovated in 2007. Seen from atop the "Rock of Van."
Inside the mosque, with new tiles and rugs.
The ruins of a Turkish village, destroyed by Russians and Armenians in 1915, surround the mosque.
Originally a 2,500 year old Urartian fortress, it was added to by Assyrians, Byzantines, Seljuks, Ottamans, and other civilizations.
Some of us will climb to the top; others will sit for tea, including Gisela, who entrusts me with her camera.
The base is stone, the rest is mud brick.
As we climb, we get a good view of Lake Van.
Our first stop is a Urartian tomb. These cunieform inscriptions tell us there is a king buried inside the cave carved from the cliff we are on.
Inside the king's tomb. Is it Sarturi? Was he really buried there? As for the latter, no one is really sure.
Whoever (if anyone) was actually in this cliffside cave, their spirit climbed this stairway to the heavens.
Rain drain or sacrificial drain? No one is sure.
Was it rainwater or blood that spilled down the cliff through this drain?
This structure looks to me more recent than Urartian.
Larry tried to figure it out.
We descend through one of the fortress gates.
And leave the Rock of Van.
Leaving Kars, we stop at a memorial to Subatan villagers who were killed by Armerians in 1918.
The Turkish/Armenian hostilities are complicated and span many generations.
Approaching Ani, our next major destination, we see villagers' sod huts abutting the ancient city walls.
This ancient Armenian capital city has a long history.
And the site is huge!
. . . with far too much to see in one day, but we do our best.
We enter through the city's ancient walls.
Our first view is of the off-limits fortress in the background and smaller buildings in the foreground.
We arrive in late spring, when the wildflowers are at their best.
Looking back at the gate we just walked through, we marvel at the early use of the symbol that later became a Nazi symbol. Our German fellow travelers were amazed.
We venture forth to visit historic buildings; on the right is our new friend Gisela who resides in Germany.
As we progress, we get a better view of the entry gates behind us.
We get an early view of the Armenian cathedral on the left, and a Seljuk minaret on the right.
Ancient haman (Turkish bath) in the foreground; military watchtower in the background. This site was off limits to visitors until recently.
Evidence of early troglodyte caves
The Church of the Redeemer was built in 1034-36, destroyed by lightning in 1957.
A closer look at the ruins from the lightning strike
Another view of the cathedral in the background, from the Church of the Redeemer
Larry looks over the ruins of a small Turkish bath.
Onur leads us down the path to the "Edge of Turkey," and the Church of St. Gregory. Armenia is just over the ravine.
Also called the Church of the Tigran Honents, an Armenian merchant who commissioned its construction, it was completed in 1215.
The elaborately decorated exterior is wonderfully preserved after all these years.
The decoration includes this ancient sundial.
detail
There is an amazing number of frescoes still intact.
The interior frescoes detail the life of St. Gregory, father and patron saint of the Armenian Church. Here he is tortured by pagan kings.
More frescoes
The Silk Road is both a concept and a real road in places.
This is part of the Silk Road, even though it doesn't look like much here.
We approach the Armenian cathedral.
Built between 987 and 1010 AD, this is one of Armenia's architectural masterpieces.
It is called the Holy Virgin Cathedral, and is a little precarious in places.
View of the ravine separating Turkey and Armenia, as seen from the cathedral.
Some say that this huge structure influenced the design of later Gothic cathedrals in Europe.
The cathedral was designed by Trdat Mendet, the same architect that renovated Aya Sofya in Istanbul.
Although there is little visual evidence, at the time the Seljuk King Arslan conquered Ani, this cathedral became a mosque.
These poppies and other wildflowers are beautiful in this otherwise forbidding landscape.
We approach the first Turkish mosque in Anatolia, the Ebul Manucehr Camii, a Seljuk structure.
From the mosque, we view the bridge that was once an integral part of this section of the Silk Road. Turkey is on the left; Armenia on the right.
Seljuk ceiling
Interior. The pointed arch in the window at right shows early Arabic influence in this area of Anatolia.
This simple mihrab was formerly decorated with wooden ornamentation.
This family is quite comfortable atop the Byzantine column base.
The mosque is a large "kumbet." The sarcophagus chamber is below.
Built in 1072, the mosque, with this beautiful minaret, is undergoing intensive restoration and is now a museum.
Leaving the mosque, we walk along the ruins of a series of shops on the Silk Road.
Mt. Ebrus in the distance is the highest mountain in Armenia.
This minaret of the Ebu'l Muhammeran Mosque was dynamited in the early 20th century by an Armenian priest.
. . . providing a rare glimpse inside a minaret.
Looking back on the Church of the Redeemer
We look back on the entrance walls, with the trade center in the foreground.
Ruins of shops, or caravansaray? (Gisela's photo)
Larry has much to contemplate as we leave this amazing site.
Onur sums up.
As we look back for one more view of buildings once used by as many as 100,000 Armenian residents.
As we exit the gate, we admire the Seljuk ornamentation in the walls.
. . . including the lion symbol of King Arslan, the Seljuk conquerer of this early Christian community.
Arriving back in Kars, we walk up to the citadel.
This 1579 bridge, built under Sultan Murat III, figures prominently in Orhan Pamuk's novel, Kar (Snow).
This statue, built to respond to one in Armenia, is slated for demolition, as relations between the two countries improve.
Looking down on the bridge and an old hamam (Turkish bath)
Larry serves as the afternoon's sentinel.
Larry's not needed; this cannon will do the trick.
The sultan's carved signature proves he was actually present in the fortress at one time.
Former Russian artillery housing
Inside the castle
This is the Church of the Apostles which we pass as we descend from the citadel.
Elaborate portico
One of twelve crudely cut reliefs depicting an apostle.
Armenian cross
Another lion motif
Onur points out a corner motif in this church turned mosque turned church turned mosque, and so on.
It's the sun looking down on worshippers.
More apostle reliefs
On our way to the evening's rest spot, Dogubeyazit, Onur, Larry and I stop for refreshment.
Back on the road, we pass the famous Mt. Ararat.
Getting closer, we don't yet see Noah's Ark.
This homestead is at the base of the mountain.
At 17,000 feet, the mountain looms over the entire countryside.
These people are very poor.
Near the border with Iran, this trade town proudly displays the 1948 U.N. Declaration of Human Rights.
. . . along with the symbol for justice.
Travelling beside the Aras River, we pass a sod hut. This is a poor, but beautiful countryside.
Spanning the Aras River, this bridge was built by Mongolians in 1297-98, along a portion of the Silk trade route.
Larry takes a closer look.
A train approaches from the west.
heading east
We look on snow covered peaks, constant companions on this high altitude trip.
Before we continue on the road to Kars, Erhan serves refreshments.
This road, flanked by obsidian laden hills, was the major thoroughfare between Anatolia and Iran for centuries.
The late spring greenery reminds us of Ireland.
This summer palace was built for Katarina, a royal member of the occupying Russians.
Commemorating the martyrs who died under the ill conceived winter plan of Pasa Enver
"Who are these patriots?"
We've never seen so many cows in Turkey before. This explains the amount of meat at all our hotel meals.
There are very few people living in this part of the country. Those who do live in sod houses or temporarily in tents.
This northeastern Turkey lake is second in size to Lake Van, more to the south.
This is a pristine body of water, with few inhabitants, except for the occasional nomad tent.
Yup, it's cold here.
Even farther north and east is Aktas Lake; the land in the distance is Georgia. Yup, it's raining.
"Devil's Tower," in "Devil's Canyon"
Even I braved an approaching thunderstorm to view this amazing site.
Our archaeologist guide says there is no documentation about who built this sentry tower, and when.
It is either a 3,000 year old Urartian tower, or a 1,000 year old Armenian tower. Big difference!
This stream cuts through the meandering canyon and separates Turkey from Armenia.
This canyon in the Caucusus Mountains offers one of the most spectacular views we have ever seen.
That's Armenia on the other side.
We get permission from a local school to use the rest rooms. Before long, we attract a crowd, including at least one Yankees fan.
After our long overnight bus ride, we visit Eksisu mineral water park.
Children play in the warm mineral laden pond.
Ducks like "the waters," too.
Caravansaray, closed and locked due to an upcoming wedding celebration. Darn.
Burial place of a rare female Turkish tribal leader who ruled from 1192 to 1202 AD.
The first of many elaborate stone motifs we see on this tour
Inside the outer wall of this "kumbet" style tomb, Larry waits his turn to visit the upper prayer room . . .
. . . while another in our group emerges from the lower "sarcophagus" room.
Congress Building where, in 1919, Ataturk plotted his strategy for the War of Independence.
Guess who?
Congress Building
Inside the Congress Building Onur explains Ataturk's strategy.
The Twin Minaret Medrese, or center of intellectual activity in the 13th century
This Seljuk structure is the largest medrese in Anatolia. Note the unfinished stone work on the left.
Detail of the finished exterior stonework
One of the minarets
Inside the open courtyard
The arcade once housed instruction rooms; now the entire structure is a museum.
This platform leads to a large "kumbet," or tomb in the back.
Inside the upper prayer room of the tomb
Exterior view of the "kumbet" attached to the back of the medrese
Another "kumbet" out back
And more!
This "ev," or "house" is both a museum and home to the family of the owners. Note the unusual wooden ceiling.
Oops! We barge in on a sleeping child.
Exterior
Each town seems to have its historical citadel, or fortress.
What was once a minaret to the citadel's mosque was rebuilt as a bell tower by Russians, with Russian architectural design at the top.
Inside the citadel's mosque, the oldest Turkish building in Erzurum
From the outer citadel walls we see the distant view of the opposing Russian fortress.
A particularly striking minaret
Unusually large number of chimneys
Currently used as a jewelry sales center
More beautifully cut stonework
This is the fortress as seen from our hotel during breakfast; we never got to visit there. Darn!
Courtyard
Basement cisterns or wine/olive oil storage jars?
Mother in Law Room
Lawrence of Arabia's motor bike!
Great street, "Old Cinema Street," with cobblestones, cafes, and lots of character
Statuary from rock cut graves
Scale model of Zeugma, with mosaics
Antiochus shaking hands with Mithras (Apollo/Helios). Commagene Kingdom, 60-40 BCE, Zeugma, basalt.
The Marriage of Dionysos and Ariadne, with central section stolen the very day this elaborate mosaic was excavated.
"Most Wanted"
This is what it looked like before plundering.
These geometric mosaics were generally found on the floors of the bath within a villa.
Close-up of a border drama mask
"The Women at Breakfast"
Bronze statue of Mars found amid the ruins of Zeugma
Dionysos and Aphrodite
Aphrodite
"Europa'nin Kacirilisi." I think this means, "The Rape of Europa."
Satyros & Antiope
Close up
Another one; I like these birds.
Achilles in Skyros
"Dionysos, Telete & Skyrtos"
"Okeanos & Tethys"
I particularly like this geometric mosaic.
"Cingene Kizi," or "The Gypsy Girl," about 18 x 24 inches only
She has become the symbol of this museum, and one of the symbols of all of Turkey in only the few years since excavation.
Ancient coins depicting the Temple of Tyche, atop a huyuk (tel) above Zeugma
These coins helped modern day archaeologist find the temple at Zeugma.
Tiny bulla (clay seal), one of 65,000 recovered from Zeugma; this is about 1/3 of an inch in diameter.
Cylinder seals
Antiochus I; similar to the statue on Nemrut Dag, with Persian head covering.
Head of young woman
Top image: "Satyros, Antiope & Galatia"
Close up: bottom image: Galatia (the name on the mosaic is in Greek)
Close up (upper image): "Satyros & Antiope"
HUGE floor mosaic of Poseidon, as seen from a second story balcony
"Bust of Dionysos"
Gold funeral ornaments
"Okeanus & Tethys"
"Eros & Psykhe"
Close up of border design
Close up of border design
"Metioks & Parthenope"
Euphrates (River God)
Close-up
Close-up
Close-up
fragment
Satyros & Antiope
These women rest near the corner where we wait for our bus to take us back to Ankara.
Roving tea vendor
We pass yet another "huyuk" or unexcavated tel.
. . . and his companion
On the way back to Ankara, we enter the Cilician Gates.
This is the only pass through the Tauros Mountains, connecting the southeast plains with central Anatolia.
This is the "throat," or Bogazici, of the gates, through which passed Alexander the Great, Saint Paul, and the first crusaders. It is only 44 meters wide.
We pass Mount Hasan yet again.
The sun sets over the Anatolian plateau.
These rare birds, numbering as few as 30 not long ago, have a refuge on the back of the Birecik Dam, on the Euphrates River.
A close-up, in silhouette
Miles and miles of Turkish pistachios; I'm in seventh heaven.
We board a boat on the lake formed by the Birecik Dam on the Euphrates (Firat River).
An early view of Rumkale, with a cut stone staircase leading formerly from the Euphrates
This break in the hill may have been artificially cut. If not, it was made use of by the builders of the fortress.
Turning the corner
Around the end of the peninsula
Approaching the dock
We start the climb.
Resting in the shade, we look up at a tower's ceiling construction. This may have been recently renovated.
We continue through an arched gate.
Looking back as we continue to climb
Another brief rest stop, not so much from the climb, but from the strong sun
Looking back at our previous rest stop
This Armenian Catholic Church was built in 1173 by Saint Nerses the Graceful, theologian, poet, and composer of hymns.
A view of the Euphrates from the top of the Rumkale
Larry wonders if our boat is leaving without us.
Nope, it's still waiting for us.
Back on our boat, we view one of the few remaining villagers near this part of the lake.
This village was abandoned due to rising dam waters by all but a handful of people.
The yellow banner on the left is evidence of a small cafe amongst mostly abandoned homes.
One can see the roof of the village mosque just below the surface of the water. The base of the minaret sits in the lake.
We return for lunch on the boat, tethered to the dock of this small town, Halfeti.
A huyuk looms over the site of the ancient city of Zeugma, now covered with pistachio trees.
Missed by my camera, there is a little "bump" on top of this huyuk, which covers the ruins of a temple to the god, Tyche.
Close-up of my favorite Antep pistachios on the tree
Some excavated villas, the few not under the dam's waters, will be protected by an open air museum, currently under construction.
The rooms of a villa are visible under the structural beams.
On completion of the building, some mosaics currently in the Gaziantap Museum will be reinstalled on the floors of these villas.
Arriving in Harran, we walk past one of the "beehive" houses of today's village.
The village sits among the ruins of thousands of years of civilizations, dating back to the Copper Age.
Excavation of the site will begin again this month (June)
We approach the site of the 1st Islamic university, a center of scientific learning in the 8th century.
The Ulu Mosque (or Great Mosque), on the site of the university, was the first "standardized" mosque.
The tower served as a minaret and an astronomical observatory.
The medieval castle on site; we were unable to enter it.
We enter Harran's cultural center, a retail shop and cafe, the former home of the owners.
Two of our companions wait for their tea, he recovering from traveller's illness.
Inside, we look up into the "beehive."
These arches connect the beehives to form a larger home.
There are lots of trinkets for sale.
Construction techniques include the use of bricks scavenged from the ruins surrounding the village.
The bottom half is covered in mud and straw.
Exterior view of the cultural/retail center.
Old tools
An inhabited house. This house building technique is thousands of years old, but the current houses are about 150 to 200 years old.
The design and materials keep people cool in summer and warm in winter.
The ancient tradition of drying dung for fuel survives.
One of about a dozen unexcavated "huyuks," or sites of ancient civilizations we pass on the road. Sorry about the fuzziness; I was on the moving bus.
Fertility figures.
We've not seen these "eye idols" anywhere else.
This looks Hittite to me; I forgot to take notes.
Giant clay bathtub?
View of the castle, and towers marking the site of the catapulting of of the Prophet Abraham
This beautiful urban park and pilgrimage site sits at the base of the castle.
Balikli Gol (Fish Lake), where Abraham's landing after being catapulted miraculously turned fire into water and faggots into fish.
The lake is chock full of fish which are said to be descendants of the originals from Abraham's time.
The fish are well fed by thousands of people who visit this holy site.
The park is beautiful and well used.
This smaller pool is named for the daughter of the evil king Nemrut, who tried to assassinate Abraham. The king is not the same Nemrut who constructed the Nemrut Dag statues.
The park's mosque is huge, as this whole area is a pilgrimage site.
A water channel courses through the park, cooling us as we stroll.
Our guide expresed skepticicm of this claim.
This is a very holy site, so rules are strict. I had to wear not only a head scarf, but a floor length coat provided by the kindly attendant, because I was wearing capris.
The cave where the Prophet Abraham is said to have been born
The castle from a closer view. We climbed up for a visit, but didn't go inside.
View of the park from just outside the castle
Pilgrims arrive as we leave.
That night we visit a converted mansion for an evening of Turkiish folk music.
One of our more gracious fellow travelers is moved by the music.
Looking down into the former mansion's courtyard
Looking up toward the cafe
The drummer was great.
Our first sighting of this amazing site is a support from an ancient bridge, over the Tigris River (now called the Dicle).
Those are stairways in the cliff behind the bridge ruins.
This ancient city will be under water if the projected GAP dam, already under construction, is completed.
This elaborate minaret is topped by a stork's next.
Across the river, life goes on as it has for thousands of years.
Those goats provide the raw material for these soft blankets.
The design on this small mosque shows both the Arab and Turkish influences in the area.
Part of the hilltop palace ruins; we start to climb from an easier route behind the cliff.
Thıs area ıs a mini-Cappadocia, but older.
On our way up . . .
. . . and up . . .
. . . and up . . .
Almost there
Larry and Onur make it to the top. Well, me too; I'm taking the picture.
Looking down on the ancient cave community
Looking down and out at today's town, and the Tigris River
I think I'll stop looking down now.
Well, one last look. We viewed these bridge ruins earlier from near the modern bridge in the background.
Some hilltop palace ruins
This is as close to the edge as I'm willing to get.
Ancient stairway
Wait . . . we wen't at the top before?
We reach the Byzantine palace ruins.
The old city on top of the hill
We head back down.
We walk through another town of light colored stone.
Konuk Evine, the 19th century home of a wealthy merchant. Now a museum.
Konuk Evine, courtyard
Konuk Evine, inside
Konuk Evine, view from the top
Ellen poses before one of about nine Syrian Christian churches in Midyat.
Konuk Evine
Established by Syriac Assyrians who left Antakya, this monastery is one of the earliest Christian sites, although it has been extensively renovated.
The monastery was built on top of a 3,000 year old temple to the sun.
Note the ceiling, made of huge stone blocks cut at an angle for stability.
The "tomb room" was stripped of its gilding by invading Mongols.
The right side of this sign is in Aramaic, the language of Jesus.
This replica of the monastery is constructed of hundreds of thousands of toothpicks.
Photograph of the monastery in its setting
Insıde
Huh?
View of the Mesopotamian plain
This may be one of the world's most beautiful post offices.
Post office
Post office
Post office
Post offices's exquisitely carved doorway
Walking through the stone city
There is an older man carrying this refrigerator up the steep stairs on his back, motor and all.
View from the old city
As we descend, we look down on the roof of an old hamam (Turkish bath)
A side room inside a 12th century medrese
This case inside the medrese is said to contain the footprint of Muhammad.
12th century tomb of Artuklu Sultani. Our hotel is named after him.
Our hotel, the Artuklu Kervansarayi, built in 1275 as a caravansaray along the medieval trade route
Our room
A hallway
Lobby
Lobby
Roof terrace at night
Hilltop fortress from the hotel's rooftop
Looking down on another terrace of our hotel from a higher one
Inside a tent on the highest rooftop terrace of the hotel
The tent just might be used for smoking these nargile.
Morning view of the "hisar" from the hotel's rooftop terrace
"The World's Shortest Bellhop," at our hotel.
"The World's Tallest Bellhop," at 7 feet tall.
Constructed in the 1980s, this is the centerpiece of the GAP project and the largest of 22 planned dams in the region.
A view down river from the dam of the Euphrates River
The countryside surrounding the Euphrates is testament to the arid conditions that the dam was designed to alleviate.
Memorial to the workers who died constructing the dam
Unemployment is a real problem throughout Turkey. Here, rows of shoeshine men await customers.
This house was given to Ataturk by the city. He stayed here only briefly; now it is a museum.
Ataturk slept here.
A common design in the region, this fountain represents the human life cycle: birth, life, death, rebirth.
The city walls as seen from the terrace of Ataturk's house.
Hmmm, why are there so many young men hanging around the Mardin Gate, a popular tourist stop?
View from the top of the Mardin Gate
Onur talks of the massive city walls.
Art gallery inside the Mardin Gate
Originally a temple to the sun god, then a Byzantine Church, an Arabic mosque, now an art gallery
The very tall ceilings have been renovated.
These walls are extremely thick.
This sign is evidence of the variety of religions here.
We pass by some famous Diyarbakir watermelons. No, wait, it's early in the season, so they're probably imported from Iran instead.
This minaret sits on four columns, which is very unusual, and strikes us as unstable.
But it was built 600 years ago, so I guess it's pretty stable after all.
Ellen passes through the four "feet" for good luck, as the legend would have it.
Next stop
This church is Catholic, and is still regularly used by descendants of the Babylonians.
The church's courtyard
The church is still under renovation.
Inside
Walking to the next site, we pass these black mulberries (karadut) for sale.
We approach the Ulu Mosque (Great Mosque)
This long arcade marks the long, rectangular shape of this mosque.
This is said to be the earliest mosque in Turkey, constructed by the Arabs of the region.
Very old sundial in the courtyard
The long rectangular shape is no longer common in Islam.
Cahit Sitki Taranci is one of Turkey's most famous poets.
Three young boys recite in unison one of Taranci's long poems.
One of the corridors of the house echoes the alternating black and white stone design common in the region.
Inside one of the rooms of the museum
Resting in the courtyard of the poet's large home
The Eagle column greets us in front of the tumulus. Karakus means "black bird," possibly referring to the eagle.
View from the tumulus, showing the lake formed by the Ataturk dam, part of the GAP project.
A closer look at the eagle
The women of the royal family of the Commagene kingdom are buried here.
The burial mound, made of fist sized rocks, is similar to but smaller than the one on top of Nemrut Dag.
King Mithridates II shakes hands with his sister, Laodike.
Built in 210 AD, this bridge is 1,800 years old and still in use!
The Commagene builders honored the Roman emperor, Septimus Severus and his family with four pillars, two on either end of the bridge.
The thistles here are huge.
View from the bridge, which spans one of the tributaries of the Euphrates River (Firat Nehri)
Family picnic near the bridge
Ancient stele honoring the emperor
This plaque is very informative.
View from the capital city; that's the mighty Euphrates (Firat) way down there.
We climb higher.
We pass the first tunnel. Is it a royal tomb or the location of secret rites of the cult of Mithras?
This second tunnel is surrounded by a lengthy Greek inscription telling the story of the founding of the city.
Some of these tunnels go 500 feet down into the mountain.
This well preserved relief depicts Antiochus I shaking hands with Hercules.
Introduction
The view to the top, from the parking lot
We begin the windy climb to the summit, which looks deceptively close.
Some of our group takes a rest.
This taxi is available to take one of us to the top, but we choose to walk.
From 7,000 feet, that road looks like a piece of yarn.
We make it to the Western Terrace, facing King Antiochus's ancestral land, Mesopotamia.
Earthquakes caused the heads to tumble off these bodies.
Antiochus I
The god, Commagene
View from the Western Terrace
It's cold and windy up here!
It is assumed that the tumulus, the artificially constructed "summit" contains the body of the King Antiochus.
We move around the tumulus to the Eastern terrace. This is King Antiochus I again, with Persian head gear.
The Eastern terrace pays tribute to Antiochus's other ancestral land, Persia.
One of the gods
Another god
Reliefs, perhaps from the collapsed temple
Antiochus wonders what I'm doing on his sacred mountain.
Time to descend
Lounging on a pirate ship, Carnot and Larry express their opinion of the Mediterranean life.
We visit Cleopatra's rock before jumping into this beautiful, warm sea.
Our room at the Pirate's Beach resort, and friendly housekeeping staff person
She works wonders with a plain white towel.
Larry reads on our balcony at the resort.
This path leads to the sea; the resort's rooms are nicely designed.
The pirate theme carries (a little too far IMHO) to the check-in desk, where the staff wear pirate garb.
The resort's private beach
Another view
The pirate ship, on which we sailed our last afternoon
Larry checks the seaworthiness of the sails.
A view from the ship
We pass some islands not far from shore.
The ship wisely passes by Scylla and Charybdis.
Doesn't this water look tempting?
Despite the wind, we're ready to swim.
The boat stops in a cove near Cleopatra's rock. Can you see her?
A closer look at "Cleopatra"
The water beckons, and we finally get to swim in the Mediterranean!
The air gets clearer as we sail back to shore.
We finally get to see the formerly cloud shrouded mountain behind our resort.
Ellen joins Carnot and Larry on that comfortable spot on the ship.
Nothing like a few hours on a ship to contemplate life.
We are welcomed back to the Pirate's Beach resort.
Near dinner time, our beach is nearly deserted.
The chef begins to prepare our private dinner overlooking the sea. I had sea bass instead, though.
This is the dessert table for our small, private dinner overlooking the sea. There are only about 40 of us to eat all these desserts! I helped.
We have our own music, separate from the booming disco elsewhere on the grounds.
Rachel begins a traditional Turkish line dance.
The ambassador (white hair, on right) chooses to sit this one out, as does Larry.
Not me, I love to dance, double chin and all.
The pace picks up.
Good heavens, slow down already!
The view outside our room
Alice and Carnot bid farewell on our last morning.
On the road to Tekirova, we stop at a rest stop, where fresh ayran (a yogurt drink) is frothed.
We have our last Native American group meeting at Ece's apartment. She shows us one of her latest documentaries.
Hacettepe University hosts a visit by excellent Native American dancers.
Their troupe's name is Seven Falls Indian Dancers.
The costumes combine traditional with contemporary design.
After their performance, some faculty members and students join them onstage for photographs.
After classes, we run into Meldan, Ercan and Huriye at our local cafe, Mado.
Meldan (not in picture) hosts a farewell party for us. Larry, Bercin and Ercan (Meldan's brother), enjoy the party.
Craig, the public affairs officer at the U.S. Embassy, and Ellen ham it up.
Our cave room, cut into volcanic tufa
View from our hotel room terrace
Larry walks out of our cave room.
Another view from our hotel terrace; this unusual structure is a private home.
Another private home nearby
We enter one of about 200 early Christian "cave" churches.
Interior frescoes
More churches and former cave homes across the valley
Early Christian monastery refectory, with table and bench cut from the stone
Crude frescoes inside one of the older carved churches
Entry into one of the churches
Looking down toward the entrance to the outdoor museum
Larry exits one of the cave churches.
This was a wine storehouse; note the wine flask decoration.
Interior of one of the smaller churches
Another church cut into the stone
One church has spectacularly preserved frescoes.
The caves are used for all sorts of purposes.
This ice cream vendor "flips" his wares.
Three-headed fairy chimney
Larry's a bit overwhelmed by the scenery.
Fat fairy chimneys, eroded over the centuries
Fairy chimneys on the march
Fairy chimneys surrounded by tufa mushrooms
On the path to the tufa mushrooms
Valley sentinels
Baby valley sentinels
Three headed fairy chimney
This fairy chimney may topple soon.
These eroded tufa formations tower over the trees and vineyards.
The path takes us through "Love Valley," named for . . . ? Hmmmm.
Those are shops at the base of this fairy chimney. Shows how tall they are.
Do I see a face?
I love this translation.
This is the local police station.
After climbing the hill on top of our hotel (literally), we view the surreal landscape on the other side.
Looking down on the town
Across the valley is a lone cave dwelling.
More cave dwellings
Partially carved dwellings viewed from the hill on top of our hotel
Early morning balloon rides over Göreme
Fellow travelers Barbara and Ray enjoy breakfast in company with Ali, the hotel owner.
Larry reads about our next destination after breakfast on our hotel terrace.
If we wanted to spend a lot more money, we could have stayed in this fancier hotel, built to look somewhat "cavelike."
We arrive in the village of Basdere, where the fourth annual tree planting is already in progress.
The hill is steep and rocky.
Many trees have already been planted by the time we arrive.
About 100 Americans join about 200 villagers.
We plant about 1,500 trees in two hours!
I am useless, so I mostly take pictures.
This man, like me, prefers to just observe.
These girls, dressed in traditional garb, hand out water bottles.
Ta da!
A group of ten year old boys checks Larry's progress.
Linda, who has done this four years in a row, takes a break.
Larry looks for the next tree to plant; where is everyone else?
Found them
Larry gets a partner.
The imam and another village official show their gratitude.
While others look on.
These women work very hard.
A variety of civic groups participate.
Including the 4-H club.
In four years of this project, about 8,000 trees have been planted outside the village.
Villagers of all ages participate.
And genders.
The backhoe creating the holes could barely keep up with the speedy tree planters.
The children's job was to bring the saplings to the newly dug holes.
The man without the shovel is the "boss," directing the complex project.
Even the feral dogs get into the act.
Winding down toward a village lunch, we take more photos. These women are wearing my favorite scarves.
Larry poses at the exact spot where we were fifteen years ago, with Saban and Anna, who was five years old at the time.
This huge fairy chimney is a lot farther away than it looks.
Looking down from the observation point of the previous pictures
From a different angle, I notice the dwelling entrance carved into one of the columns.
Note the footholds leading to the door.
This vendor tries to make a sale. In truth, I would wear this scarf around my shoulders rather than on my head.
We approach Üçhisar, which translates to "Three Castles."
Looking down into Pigeon Valley, on the way to Üçhisar
Pink hued Pigeon Valley
Larry is overwhelmed by evil eyes hanging on the tree behind him.
We walk toward one of the castles, which is carved into the rock overlooking everything.
Note the people on top. We thought about making the climb, from within the rock, but passed.
I finally get a glimpse of Mt. Erciyes! It is one of two volcanoes that spewed all the ash that millenia later became tufa.
We visit this enormous rug workshop and salesroom a stone's throw down the hill from our hotel.
One specialty of the shop is making silk from cocoons. These soak in water for a few days.
A worker monitors the silk strands as they are pulled from the wet cocoons.
The strands are gathered into floss. Each floss thread contains about 40 strands of silk.
The floss on the left is later died, then woven into silk rugs. Each square meter of a silk rug has about one million(!!) hand tied knots. No wonder they are so expensive.
More rugs!
Classy place to sip tea and be shown rugs. The light one on the wall is just like one we bought from Kadir Bey, but bigger.
A hallway leads to yet more showrooms.
Another showroom with rugs on the wall and a kilim on the floor
At night, we attend "Turkish Night," at a Vegas style hall. This drum has seen better days, but still sounds good.
Next morning, we find another huge rug shop, this one a wholesale shop.
A lot of the rugs and other traditional items are old; some made by nomads.
Across the street from the rug shop, someone displays a personal collection.
An elderly woman weaves in the shadows of the rug shop.
The wool in this brand new Kayseri rug is undyed, sheered from sheep of different hues. I want it!
We pass Mt. Hasan, another volcano.
A close-up salt crystals in Tuz Gölü, or the great salt lake in the middle of Anatolia.
Tuz Gölü
Bios, or "Life"
"The Four Seasons," the most famous of the Daphne mosaics, from the 2nd century AD
The intrepid duo in front of Soteria, the goddess of Salvation. 5th century AD
Some of these mosaics are huge!
Iphigenia in Aulis, 3rd century AD
Larry meets a soul mate.
Oceanus & Thetis from the House of Menander in Daphne, 250-75 AD
Weapons, animals and insects attack the Evil Eye. 2nd century AD
The Happy Hunchback, 2nd century AD
Detailed closeup
Oceanus in exquisite detail
Dionysian dancers, 3rd century AD
My favorite. Flowers and fish from the Orontes River (now called the Asi River)
Photo taken of this huge floor mosaic, from a rickety stairway in the corner.
One of the finest sarcophagi found in Anatolia
The inhabitants
Best known for its mosaics, this museum also has this impressive 8th century BCE column base. Hittite, I believe.
I love this happy face from Antioch's Roman era.
This one is more contemplative.
This "traveller" is sleeping.
"Old" is relative. Most were destroyed by earthquakes over the centuries.
These houses are slated for renovation to increase tourism.
The upper windows show evidence of Arabic influence on the local architecture.
With courtyards of private homes open to the street, we inadvertently invade this man's privacy. Sorry!
Alley
This time Larry knocks first.
In truth, he was just investigating this door knocker.
This message proudly proclaims a family member's successful hajj (to Mecca) in 1979.
Antakya's old neighborhood streets are very narrow.
I must be getting hungry.
Courtyard of the Habib-I Neccar Mosque, named, ironically, after a Christian convert
Inside view
We approach hermit caves and St. Peter's Cave Church.
A solitary Christian hermit lived and prayed here.
Evidence of the earliest of Christian hermits
Looking down the hill to the ruins of an old church
More hermit caves. How did they get up there?
This outer wall was added to the 1st century cave church by the Crusaders in the Middle Ages.
Founded, and reputedly carved, by St. Peter himself, this church is one of the earliest Christian prayer locations.
Because Christianity was outlawed at the time, there is an escape route into the mountain.
Serhan, our guide, and Larry wish us peace, behind a 20th century altar addition.
This holy water receptacle is replenished by a natural spring. The Pope dedicated this early church as a holy place, worthy of a pilgrimage.
Entrance to a small Catholic church, located between a mosque and a synagogue
Through the door, into a courtyard, similar to Ottoman homes
On the roof
The suburb of Harbiye was once called Daphne, the summer place of Emperors.
Today the waterfalls are directed around tea houses and trinket sellers.
And tour guides
They're everywhere.
Catering primarily to Antakya residents, rather than tourists
Antakya plans on 100% of its energy coming from its pervasive breezes.
This wind farm is under construction beneath the St. Simeon monastery.
The old (left-the monastery), the new (right, a new windmill), and the peculiar (middle, a chair in the middle of nowhere?)
The base of the column on which St. Simeon lived for forty years. This site marks the origin of Western monasticism, later manifested in Italy.
Three churches surrounded the central portion of the monastery.
Elaborate column base or capital?
View from the monastery
The monks never saw these.
Larry looks for graves of holy men within the monastery walls.
The monastery overlooks the Orontes.
We enter the point where two holy men met for Moses's instruction. This sign is Arabic and means "Peace Be To You."
The tomb of the prophet, Hizir, and meeting point between him and Moses. Some say, instead, that Moses met Elijah here.
The building surrounds this unusual calcium formation, representing the point of the meeting between the prophets.
This is a photo of the rock before the current building was constructed around it. Walking around the site three times is considered good luck.
Two children pay their respects.
This map shows the early Mediterranean port and Roman era tunnel.
View from the path leading to the town ruins
We enter the tunnel carved into the mountain.
This tunnel "door" could be blocked off as necessary for defensive purposes.
Carved into the tunnel's wall, this stairway perhaps leads to a guard's post.
We pass by a "spirit tree," where local residents tie cloth or pieces of plastic in honor of (or to appease?) their ancestors.
This soil layer dates from Neandertal times and awaits excavation.
Looking down from our path, we see a ship that sank three years ago.
We climb a path next to the tunnel that narrows and deepens as it enters the mountain.
We pass sumac berries; the powder makes a great great spice to sprinkle on onions.
Water channel
Lower necropolis. Some say this was carved by Neandertals; they may be more recent, though, used by the Seleucids.
I don't know--looks Neandertal to me.
Inside one of the older cave tombs
Roman bridge over tunnel just before the tunnel goes underground
Looking down at the Besikli Cave Tomb Monument ("Tomb of the King")
The tomb contains 93 vaults and was constructed between 1 and 5 AD.
Plan of the burial vaults carved into the mountain
Oyster motif carved into the tomb complex entrance hall
Some of the more exposed tombs
Larry views Mt. Cassius, the Mediterranean, and the town of Cevlik from a collapsed Doric temple.
Only the huge floor blocks have survived multiple earthquakes.
The rest is a jumble. The temple was dedicated to Zeus and, in the lower level, Aphrodite.
Mount Cassius, as seen from the temple, was said to be the home of Zeus.
Poppies grow everywhere in this gorgeous climate.
Two cows don't care whose temple this was.
The cows' owner
The last remaining Christian Armenian village in Turkey, with only @130 mostly older residents
This resident, though, is not so elderly.
The church is small and elegant. The priest came in to welcome us.
One resident offers us free samples of homemade strawberry and pomegranate liqueurs. Wish I could bring some home on the plane!
We wander around the village.
On the road, we stumble across a wedding celebration. This town is more Arabic than Turkish.
While the men dance a traditional line dance, the women serve the other guests.
The bride looks on.
A solo dancer
Ottoman bridge over the canyon and stream
The bridge from the opposite side
We end the day with Efes beer (in Tuborg glasses?)
The bar sits on top of this silk shop. I wish the shop had been open this late.
On our bus trip back to Ankara, we stop at Iskenderum, the largest Hatay city, naval base, and commercial port. Pretty Mediterranean light in the early morning.
This rundown, but pretty house, is scheduled by the government for renovation.
Tiled scene at the entrance to the museum. Larry and I have free admission because today is "seniors day"!
Our sailor guide greets us.
A Turkish sailor from long ago
The Captain
Today's sailor could be from nearly any country.
As could his captain.
This complex is actually about thirty miles north of Antakya, along the road back to Ankara.
I believe these are the large kitchens, designed to feed multiple travelers, generally for free, as well as the local poor.
This may be the roof of the hamam, or bath, although I'm not really sure.
This well seems to have no bottom. There is a rumor that Turkey's motto is "Safety Last."
The Crusader castle, next to the caravansaray/mosque complex
Castle entrance
Inside the ruins of the castle courtyard
Just outside the large covered bazaar building, we are invited to have lunch with a wedding party.
Some early arrivals await the rest of the wedding guests - 1,500 in all!
While we wait for lunch, we visit the caravansaray courtyard, where the festivities will go on all night (maybe the previous night, too?)
In the foreground, camels would rest with their burdens, while traders sought shelter in the rooms beneath the arches.
Entry into enormous kitchens that fed the travellers as well as the local poor.
Beneath the arches of the huge caravansaray, the largest I've seen in Turkey so far
Travelers received three days of free lodging and food every thirty miles in a caravansary like this (tho usually smaller).
Still waiting for lunch, we visit the mosque, reputedly designed by Sinan. His role is uncertain, though.
According to our guides, this producing olive tree is 2,000 years old!
We all feel young in front of this tree.
These graves in the mosque courtyard are different from those seen elsewhere in Turkey. Perhaps the Arabic influence here?
Serhan, one of our two guides, discusses the matter with Larry.
Larry gets hungy as the seats begin to fill up.
The mother of the bride welcomes us.
A small army of volunteer servers, all male, begins to serve lunch.
Full house!
Exiting through a receiving line, we wish the groom farewell; we never saw the bride.
Tanfer and Larry discuss jazz at Hacettepe's main campus gala.
Celebrating the first academic jazz department in Turkey
Barbara at the Kugulu Park restaurant in downtown Ankara
Ibraham Bey transforms my mop.
Well, no, that's not me (thank goodness). Ibraham is also the hairdresser to this star, whose music, and entertainment persona, I don't like.
Hers is free, because it's her birthday.
Michael travels all the way from Dresden, Germany, to have dinner with his wife, Serpil (foreground), her student, and us at "The Ladybug" bistro, in Ankara. The desserts are great!
Mama Zahra, an Iranian refugee (and one of Larry's older students) and her daughter and son in law, host us and a friend at their apartment.
Zahra and her daughter fix us a feast of Iranian vegetarian specialties.
Part of the group that meets at Bercin's second home in Ankara for five hours of food and fun, and ten minutes of meeting.
Gulriz leaves her hospital bed to join us.
Bercin (standing), with her son, who is reacting to something--sneeze? joke? bit his tongue?
Ercan digs in to the desserts.
Nice library for the military families
Rodney, the librarian
Looking down on the "old town" of Beypazari, and the "dinosaur" hills marching through the valley
Larry checks out the bird life from atop the fortress hill.
View of the "new city" from the hill
The old on the left, the new on the right, and the former "Silk Road" in the valley in the middle
One young woman knots the fringe on newly woven cloth.
Weaver
Hand embroidered cloth, based on Ottoman designs. Most of the threads are gold and silver.
Working with silver filigree (the tiny shards lined up on the tray are elaborate filigree designs).
Combing wool into a grid design on this soft blanket
Our guide, Fiyat, points out natural dying techniques.
This is quite a large hand woven kilim workshop.
Specialized tool used to tap down each thread as it is woven into the kilim
The larger than usual public library is full of children.
One wall highlights childrens' posters highlighting the dangers of smoking and other drug use.
This one shows quite an imagination behind the drawing.
Another particularly effective poster; the matter of fact title is "You will die."
Translation of the message from literary giants: "we wait for you in the library."
Two of the three librarians bid us goodbye.
Nicely restored commercial buildings
This man hand quilts whole cloth creations. That is, they are not pieced, but quilted on large pieces of cloth.
The town is known particularly for its locally produced egg noodles. Delicious!
At lunch, my ayran is served frothed and in a fancy silver mug. Ayran is a traditional drink of diluted yogurt and salt.
All of us ate a terrific lunch for about $6 each, including a very generous tip. Great place!
View from the upstairs restaurant
This is the exterior of the resturant, which is upstairs.
We approach the Yasayan Muze, or "Living Museum."
Some children greet us from a nearby alley. No they are not part of the museum.
But this goat IS part of the museum grounds.
Another local child looks in on the goat, and us.
The museum was once a large Ottoman house. This faucet provides water from the huge cistern to which it is attached, within the house's courtyard.
This lazy susan was used to give food to beggars who came to the door of the Ottoman house. It is situated so that the giver and receiver never see each other.
Ellen tries her hand at Ebru, Turkish paper marbling.
In reality, the teacher does all the work; I just hang on.
I do have to lay the paper by myself, though.
Ta, da! Oops, just turn your head. Each tulip represents one member of our family.
Fatih, our guide, creates a reasonable facsimile of the famous shadow puppet performance, starring Hacivit and Karagoz.
Larry gets the puppet closer to the screen, but now his arm is in the way. This is harder than it looks.
Elaborate kilims and embroided cloths decorate this Ottoman divan.
We gather around a traditional story teller.
Fatih translates for us.
The punch line
Ottoman house guest room. These cloths were hand embroidered with gold thread.
Beypazari is known for its carrots; the district grows 60% of all Turkey's carrots. The fresh juice is sweet and delicious.
Beypazari is also well known for its silver jewelry. I find it too elaborate, though.
Having ordered our teas, we watch as an ominous cloud grows in the west, curtailing our return to the Inozu Valley.
This house sits at one of four entrances to the beautiful urban park within walking distrance of our hotel.
one of the green's permanent residents
Sad memorial to the Famine of the 19th century
Government building
Bicycles for everyone's use, in front of a modern war memorial
The Guinness refinery commissions the statue of Oscar Wilde in the next photo.
Oscar Wilde statue, erected in 1997
Larry caught off guard
Heather garden
This unusual mound is the entry to a WWII underground air raid shelter, large enough to fit more than 1,000 people.
When told to paint their doors black, out of respect (for whom?), Dubliners, being Dubliners, painted them every color but.
The main, upscale, shopping pedestrian street, between St. Stephen's Green and Trinity College
The Shelbourne Hotel, a local landmark
Carmelite church, across from St. Stephen's Green
Cool building; I haven't a clue what it is.
Chapel
Courtyard
Once a dressing room, now a meeting space for contemporary dignitaries.
Interesting plaster work on the wall
Another ceiling to add to my collection
Salon
Pretty ball room; ugly rug
Ballroom. This screen protected the women's make up, made of wax and chalk, from the fire behind it.
Throne
Above the throne are the symbols of Ireland (unicorn) and England (lion). Dublin was an English city for centuries.
During balls, courting couples sat on opposite ends of this divan; a chaperone sat in the middle.
The gallery; another ugly rug. Am I prejudiced?
Ceremonial room, still used for State visits. I don't mind this rug.
The early city walls
Viking tower foundation
Base of early city walls, beneath the current castle
secret entry in/out of the early city walls
rendering of what the previous photos might have looked like at the time
Parts of today's castle buildings are very colorful indeed.
Looking back at the only surviving Norman tower and later chapel
Famous for Sir Chester's book arts collections, particularly early New Testament papyrus manuscript fragments
A closer look at some impressive colors
More than 1,000 years old, this building has many more recent additions and replacements.
Anglican cathedral for the city of Dublin
Inside, the floor tiles are elaborate.
Tomb of Strongbow, a 12th century Norman lord and conqueror of Dublin. His original tomb was destroyed; this is a later replacement.
The small figure next to Strongbow's tomb is believed to be from the original monument. Is it his wife? child? No one knows for sure.
Baptismal
Pulpit
Organ - the white bit is the back of the organist, who was playing at the time.
Medieval stone carvings
One of many tombs inside the cathedral
Recently renovated Lady Chapel. I believe these are the original floor tiles, albeit restored.
Brother O'Brien indoctrinates the next generation.
Another interior tomb and monument. Who is this?
Old elaborate tomb
Even older
Stairway to Europe's only 17 bell tower. I don't know why this is so blue.
Beautiful door leading to the medieval crypt, below
Inside the 12th - 13th century crypt, the oldest surviving structure in Dublin
Creepy medieval statues surround me. Last picture, because we just noticed that we're not supposed to use cameras down here. Oops!
Former Chapter House of the Augustinian Canons, from 1163 to 1537
Pedestrian bridge to the "new" Chapter House, now a museum
This picture started talking to us in the Dubliniana exhibition. Scary.
Reproduction Viking tent - with four poster bed?
Viking house - no windows.
Viking weaver with crude loom
Sir What's-His-Name from medieval Dublin
Medieval Dublin in miniature
Medieval shoes
Medieval dock workers
This is where we learned that Dublin was an English city, surrounded by hostile Irish.
Interesting bit of English/Irish history
Lambert and the mob
Larry crosses the pedestrian bridge back to the church.
Ellen welcomes him back.
Approaching from the park
The writer's wall in the cathedral park. Each bay honors an Irish writer; e.g., Yeats, Wilde, Joyce, etc.
This is the national Anglican cathedral, unlike Christ Church, which is the Dublin cathedral.
In the park
Epithet of Jonathan Swift, the most famous of the cathedral's deans
The hole in this door was cut in 1492 by the Earl of Kildare to propose a truce. To have opened the door would have meant death.
Stone bearing the Celtic cross found beneath the church's foundations near St. Patrick's well, during major renovations
One of the more elaborate tombs found throughout the cathedral
After a day of sight seeing, we await a free Chopin concert at the National Gallery concert hall.
Beautiful buildings (outside); classrooms, though, are a mess.
The main courtyard
Terrific exhibit of this most famous Bible, followed by a walk through a gallery of 200,000 old books
The famous Trinity Library, with the Book of Kells and Long Room (with the 200,000 old books)
This was the only photo allowed because it was outside.
View from the top of the open air bus; I like this building.
I passed up a tour of the Guinness factory--darn!
Kilmainham Gaol - I passed this up, too. Double darn!
More typical Dublin housing. The Georgian houses, with the pretty doors in other photos, are for the wealthy.
Museum of Modern Art
Phoenix Park, Wellington monument
Gate to the U.S. ambassador's residence
Irish president's residence
Phoenix Park - the largest enlosed urban park in Europe; Central Park can fit into this park 2.5 times. These gas lamps are still in use.
Decorative Arts museum - I saw not a single person for about fifteen minutes. Spooky.
Decorative Arts museum - still no people
Decorative Arts museum - where is everyone?
More expensive Georgian neighborhoods, with their colorful doors
Chalk artist delivers a message of hope during this recession.
O'Connell bridge - wider than it is long
The famous Abbey Theatre - we missed the opening of Macbeth by one day. Another darn.
What I thought was the Abbey Theatre, but just a pretty building next door
"The Needle," Dublin's homage to the new Millenium
National Museum of Archaeology and History. Wish I could photograph inside the gorgeous domed atrium. Inside were the mummified "bog bodies."
Georgian door
Street performance on crowded Grafton St.
Meldan delivers her talk on Amy Tan.
Larry and Ozge finally enjoy a Guinness
Me, too
Great pub
We begin our bus tour in the Glendalough portion of the Wicklow Mountains National Park.
Of course, since we'll be outside much of the day, it has to be raining.
Beautiful countryside
We approach the medieval monastic settlement within the park.
This 1,000 year old bridge collapsed just recently from all the rain.
The round tower of the monastic settlement
Celtic cross in the graveyard
Approaching the medieval church
Very early celtic cross
A closer view of the medieval church
We warm ourselves in the park's cafe.
Leaving the park's monastic settlement
We arrive in the town of Kilkenny, possible home to some of Larry's ancestors.
One of the many old churches in Kilkenny, the Cathedral Church of St. Canice
Another round tower
Row houses
Approaching the Black Abbey
The Black Abbey; our guide did not explain the name.
Maybe because it's so dark inside?
The Black Abbey
The Black Abbey
Medieval city walls
Pretty residential courtyard, just inside the city walls
Abbey Street, looking back toward the city walls
Seven pubs all in a row
Larry heads off in search of his ancestors
Rothe House, a former prison
Something about a woman accused of witchcraft at this site
A bustling main street
Coat of arms of the Butler family, a leading local family, and today's makers of Butler chocolates
Former soup kitchen during the Famine
Approaching Kilkenny Castle
Kilkenny Castle
Castle entrance
Kilkenny craft shop and restaurant
Extensive castle grounds
Former castle stables
Mohammad Ali ko's the Beatles. What?
Lunch in a local sports bar (hence the previous picture)
Kilkenny beer is better than Guinness.
The castle walls are mighty thick
The moon rises over St. Stephen's Green entrance.
Inside Trinity College courtyard: Gulriz (center), Tanfer (right), Tanfer's mother (left)
The airport is packed with pilgrims returning from the Hajj (Mecca)
Meldan brings me a delicious chocolate cake.
Candles and all
One for each decade + 1
Entryway
Lobby
Larry, Ellen and Ercan wait for the ballet, Harem, to begin.
Larry, Meldan and Ercan
The stage before the house fills up. (No photos during the performance, alas)
Ercan lives in this beautiful apartment in our neighborhood.
Ercan's maid serves Larry.
Italian furniture from the parents' days as diplomats.
Ercan's butler on call
Meldan recounts the "joys" of apartment construction.
Japanese artifact - kimono sash
This is the Afghan rug (wool from Turkey, though) that we helped Ercan select.
Foyer - the cabinet on the right houses shoes as one enters the apartment. Nobody leaves their shoes on in Turkish homes.
Custom kitchen, with chocolate mousse cake
My favorite rug. No wonder people don't walk around home with shoes on.
Kadir Bey and Ibraham display kilims at a lecture about weaving technique and quality.
The "A" kilim on top took four months to weave. This is the same type we bought. The middle one took one day to weave, is three times as big, but one third the price.
Part of a bride's dowry, fashioned to hide hand embroidered underwear. ????
Tribal baby's cradle. Contemporary owners reverse it and drape it over a table.
This huge tribal kilim is part of the outside of a tent or yurt. One side is rough (facing outside) and snags scorpions.
This tribal kilim was made into a dog's pillow/bed for an urban owner.
This multicolored kilim is significant for some reason. I was fooling with my camera, so didn't write it down--now I forgot. Darn!
All natural colorings (no dyes) form this old kilim.
This old kilim shows the varieties of colors obtainable from natural vegetable dyes.
These are similar to ones we bought. They are made with all natural vegetable dyes, which, unlike chemical dyes, will not fade over time.
Three samples are of Usak kilims, representing rugs used to pray for rain during drought. We bought one earlier this year. Each one took one weaver four months to create.
These kilims are nearly one hundred years old, but look as fresh as a new one.
The middle, Afghan, kilim has tight weave with extraordinarily detailed designs.
Each of these felt kilims, hand embroidered with silk thread, is 200 years old and worth more than $100,000. NFS
James Osborne is an archaeologist and PhD candidate from Harvard.
Despite his serious look, he has a great sense of humor and gentle, terrific speaking style. He also knows a lot.
At another concert by the Presidential Symphony, I was able to take a photo of this unusually large chandelier above the audience. I think it's from Scandinavia.
This is the army base school where our friend, Ray, is a guidance counsellor.
Some of the school's furniture was supplied by Kadir Bey's furniture/fabric workshop.
While most wait for their Outback Steakhouse steaks, we wait for our veggie ravioli.
The sun emerges - finally! - after a winter of nearly steady rain.
Barbara, Kadir Bey, Ray and Larry
Kadir Bey and I are so bad at basketball, he reverts to soccer moves.
Alice at her hospitable best
Charles Gates, Claire (facing camera), Ceylan (back to camera) and guess who?
Larry's still talking!
Carnot at his hospitable best
Having seen these a half dozen times, I finally find that I like them, despite the pastel colors.
These are somewhat contemporary embroidered kilims. Picture this one draped over a cream colored sofa.
Mama Magpie makes good progress outside our fourth floor living room window.
A closer look
Mama wants to get into the picture.
Performance hall, where we saw the production, Seslerle Anadolu.
Stage in the performance hall, where we viewed Seslerle Anadolu, or "Voices of Anatolia."
View from our hotel room of the Çifte Medrese, or twin medrese (the other one is in the next picture)
View from our hotel room of the other half of the Çifte Medrese, or Twin Medrese, now a museum of medicine.
Larry searches around the whole building for the entrance to the museum of medicine.
Success! Alas, though, the museum of medicine is closed for months of renovation.
We peer inside the museum of medicine and its beautiful Seljuk architecture. Where are the displays, though?
Main entry into the medrese associated with the mosque
Vaulted wall between the medrese and the mosque; from inside the medrese courtyard
One of the corner classrooms has a beautiful new door; I think it's new, as is the main entrance door to the courtyard.
Another classroom; pretty kilim
The classrooms all have vaulted ceilings, like the mosque.
A rare glimpse (for us) inside a minaret. This one was added to the mosque/medrese complex in 1901.
Interesting use of old materials
Amid all the old Seljuk buildings sits our futuristic hotel, the 5 star Hilton.
We're not used to all this luxury.
Mimar Sinan, the famous Ottoman architect, was born in the village of Agirnas, near Kayseri.
This mosque, on the edge of Sinan Park, was designed by guess who?
Elegant interior design by Sinan
Built in 1574, it is not from the Seljuk era, but from Ottoman times.
A tower of the citadel, located in the central city
Citadel park
The citadel is truly incorporated into the city.
These tombs can be found all over the city.
Inside the tomb
This mosque/medrese/hamam complex was built by the wife of the Seljuk sultan Alaettin Keykubad in 1237 & 1238.
Entry into the mosque
Tomb of the sultan's wife
Inside the mosque, where the caretaker spoke to us in French
Dating from 1268, this Seljuk medrese now serves as a book bazaar.
During an evening visit, we discover one of the bookstores inside as the owner closes up for the day.
The foothills of Mt. Erciyes overlook the town.
Elaborate building now serving as the town's cultural bureau
Begun in 1142, it is one of the oldest Seljuk buildings in Kayseri.
This site is uncovering and restoring an Ottoman hamam, or Turkish bath, belonging to one of the sultans.
Kayseri is known for two foods -- pastermi (like pastrami), as shown. Also, manti, a type of miniature ravioli.
Inside the bazaar, which looks old, but was built as recently as 1859
This bedesten, or vaulted market place, within the citadel's walls, was built in 1497 as a textile center. Rugs are still sold there.
Among all the carpets, I cannot see the famous "Kayseri rugs" I like so much. These look more like kilims.
Nope, just one of the foothills. The famous Mt. Erciyes hid behind clouds during our entire visit.
No again, just another "small" foothill.
Larry discusses President Obama's election and first year in office.
I love the panoramic views from the bus. And the grass is getting greener!
Mrs. Toker shares her stories of life with her father, Ismet Inonu, the second president of the Turkish Republic, and a close friend and associate of Ataturk.
Larry and Helen meet the U.S. Ambassador, James Jeffrey, at a screening at his residence of the film, Split.
The creator of Split, Kelly Nyks, expands on his film's creation.
From Spellman College in the U.S., Dr. Akiba Harper spoke and performed about jazz and literature (before this lunch, that is).
Bercin follows Dr. Harper, with a talk about Africans in Turkey.
Both speakers were well received by the Hacettepe students.
This scarf was a gift from the mayor of Saraykoy, where the camel wrestling competition was to take place.
We stopped at a government subsidized kilim workshop, where the wool is dyed using vegetable plants, spun, and hand woven into gorgeous kilims.
One of the larger kilims
A young weaver has memorized the intricate patterns.
This small kilim is nearly complete.
One shape is worked on at a time.
Tamping down the yarn
This kilim has a wheat and flower motif.
Double, double, toil and trouble, fire burn and cauldron bubble . . . A dye vat with natural red dye from pulverized plants.
The master dyer
Dyed wool drying in the open air.
Two shades of indigo-dyed wool; the darker soaked for 24 hours, the lighter only 8.
This coarser wool comes from various parts of the sheep. Softer wool derives from the head, neck and upper back of the sheep.
Beautiful plant dyed colors
A deep red dye is produced from this pulverized plant. Which one? I cannot remember.
Another beauty
A wall display shows the various plants from which the dyes are made. Palamut means acorn, which produces a pale yellow/green color.
I came awfully close to buying one of these small kilims, but I resisted.
On the way to our hotel, we pass miles and miles of marble quarries and distributors. These blocks are huge.
Our hotel, the Colossae Thermal Spa, offers VERY hot thermal baths - the red one in the picture, with lots of iron, and cool calcium baths - the light one. We try both, many times.
Larry takes the plunge. Ouch! Hot!
We pass through gorgeous wine country in southwestern Turkey.
Picturesque village behind the grapevines, as seen from the bus
Solo cottage
Barbara makes a selection.
Quilt ideas, my quilter friends?
This vendor gets shy.
And stays shy.
Kadir Bey leads us to the workshop connected with the shop in the previous pictures.
The shop's expert machine embroiderer works wonders.
I don't.
Inside the workshop; completed projects, many produced in the homes of textile workers.
I tried to purchase some of these squares, but they are not for sale. Alas.
Common Turkish designs.
Bolts of cloth awaiting transformation
A hand weaver creates pure silk products in another, smaller, workshop and retail shop.
The weave is tight and miniscule.
Textile overload along the streets of Buldan, in the province of Denizli
Turkish bathrobes hang in multiple colors.
This couple, married 50 years, sells us the best dried figs we've had yet.
As the bus arrives in Sarayköy, we see townspeople awaiting the arrival of camels in the central square.
An impromptu concert, with traditional Turkish instruments, greets us as we disembark.
A vendor displays one of his "camel wrestling" scarves for sale, as the crowd increases.
Great tree.
The crowd awaits the arrival of the camels.
The camels arrive in the town's central square.
Camel owners travel long distances to display their animals; the wrestling match is scheduled for the next day.
One camel wears his finest garb.
These camels are bred and nurtured for size and strength.
This beautiful animal will not wrestle after all. The next day's rain makes it too dangerous for the camels. They'll have to wait now until next year! No, wait, is this the female?
The crowds increase with the camels' arrival. We were lucky to arrive at the right time.
Kadir Bey negotiates something with a town official; probably a special box seat for us for tomorrow's camel wrestling competition.
We await the arrival of more town officials.
The district governor (left) and the town's mayor (middle) welcome us to their town. Larry is then asked to speak to them in turn.
As we return to the bus, the local band leads us in an impromptu parade down a main street.
Larry and Ellen prepare to take in "the thermals" once again.
"Pamukkale" means "Cotton Castle." These are travertines formed by thousands of years of cascading calcium rich waters.
What are those bright lights?
Confession. These are actually murals in the hotel. We never made it to Pamukkale; too much rain. Alas!
One view (without the beautiful pools visible) of the real Pamukkale, taken from the bus as we leave the area.
Although we did not see the wrestling match (cancelled due to rain), the mayor of the city gave each of us a memorial camel wrestling scarf.
Our Antalya hotel, the Atelya
Our room
Sitting room outside our private room
Alice and Carnot in the hotel "lobby"
The hotel lobby and courtyard
Ottoman carriage in the hotel courtyard
Hotel room (not ours) balcony
Charles records evidence of Helen's liberation of a fresh orange in the hotel courtyard.
Entry to our section of the hotel is the door on the right.
Street vendor; half-price (half-loaf) sale
On the road to the Mediterranean
We pass by some of the old city walls.
Seaside park
Large Roman tomb
View west from our vantage point. Small waterfall barely visible.
Door into somebody's courtyard
One of many towers in the city's walls
Formerly the main entry through the city walls. Now a ceramics shop.
City walls in the Kaleici section of Antalya. Kaleici = Inside the kale, or fortress. Now the old preserved area of the city.
An Ottoman fixer-upper inside the Kaleici
The inner harbor, now a marina. The wall protected the city for many centuries.
A closer look at the waterfall to the west of the city. The volume of water reflects recent flooding.
Harbor walls, showing the main entry to the city by boat. In the left background is the Yivli Minare, or 13th century Fluted Minaret.
One of the souvenir shopping areas in the Kaleici
The ancient main entry into the city from the harbor
One of the Seljuk inscriptions on the inner city walls, translated and interpreted by our scholar/guide Scott Redford
Smaller inscriptions are barely visible at the top of the tower.
More souvenir shops
Colorful textiles
Entry into a former Seljuk medrese, or religious academy
Remnants of blue tiles at the base of the fluted minaret
Close-up of the top of the fluted minaret
Square clock tower
Hadrian's Gate. The glass walkway protects the rutted road below. Ruts are from centuries of Roman wagon wheels passing through the gate.
Hadrian's Gate, built on the occasion of Emperor Hadrian's visit to the city.
Reproduction interior of Ottoman house, now a museum
Hand-embroidered clothing
A young woman prepares her bridal trousseau
Stone mosaic floor inside the museum courtyard
Another one. I love these floors.
Kesik Minare. The "broken minaret," from the ruins of a Roman temple, later a Byzantine church, still later, a mosque.
Kesik Minare. The Turkish archaeologist responsible for the site's excavation and restoration--with his son.
Kesik Minare - main entry to the site
Kesik Minare - Inside the main area of the church/mosque
Kesik Minare
Kesik Minare - This wall collapsed just a few days earlier from torrential rains and flooding. Therefore, we were limited in where we could walk.
Kesik Minare
Kesik Minare
Kesik Minare - The walls are still unstable from the recent rains.
Pretty rug shop in the Kaleici section of the city
Night shot of the Roman tomb
Night shot of the harbor
Our hotel, but not, alas, our room. One half of the room, that is.
The other half of the "attic" room in our hotel
Dinner and wine
Awaiting dinner
Larry reads about the Roman water canal under the glass.
A street in the Kaleici, near our hotel
Old Ottoman houses cantilevered over the streets, very close to each other.
Larry and I walk back to the hotel after an early morning stroll.
Kaleici - inside the fortress. We are here.
This is the courtyard to the terrific Antalya Museum.
Ancient funeral urn
This is how that urn was used in prehistoric times.
Instead of arranging artifacts chronologically, they are arranged by site, representing a variety of civilizations living in one place over time.
Interesting mix of objects
What does this tiny object portray?
Here is a rendering.
This is for my Mom. This vase is about 3/4 of an inch tall. Sorry I can't add it to your miniature vase collection.
old foot-powered pottery wheel
Halls of statues from Perge. Later in the day, we will visit the ancient Greco Roman site of Perge, from which these extraordinary statues were taken.
Nemisis, or "Lady Luck," the favorite god in Pamphylia, of which Perge was one part.
This bust was described by our guide as representing Hadrian's "boy toy."
Emperor Hadrian
Isis. The Egyptian cult of Isis reached Perge; she was worshiped as the ideal mother and wife as well as the patron of nature and magic.
The faces of Roman sculptures are known for their expressive features.
Another sensitive facial rendering
This room was constructed to house the sculptures taken from only a single building, the theater, at Perge. Amazing!
Hermes. Like other giant statues from the upper walls of the theater, this one leans forward in order to better be seen from the audience below.
One of many deep relief panels from the lower frieze of the Perge theater
This head is too small for the body of this statue. I think it belongs to a different body. Should I tell the museum my theory?
Sarcophagus cap
One couple's sarcophagus
Apollo and the Muses
The Treasure of the Century was returned to Turkey in 1999 after being illegally taken from Turkey in 1984.
Some of the 1,900 coins in mint condition on display. They were returned from an angry U.S. collector only after ten years of litigation and $7.5 million in legal fees.
One of 14 large "decadrachmas" found in the returned collection. Previously, only 7 of these commemorative Greek coins, struck to celebrate a Greek victory over the Persians, were known to exist.
Seljuk inscription taken from one of the city's wall towers
Photo of the previous inscription in situ
Old velvet, hand embroidered with gold thread
Huge 16th century hand knotted rug
Impressive tile map of the Teke Peninsula, with Antalya shown as the little harbor at the top of the large bay.
Another impressive huge wall tile. I think this represents ancient Antalya.
The Taurus Mountains surrounding Antalya make a brief appearance through the clouds.
The Taurus Mountains loom over Antalya--as seen from outside the Museum.
We prepare ourselves for a trek through the ancient site of Perge.
Charles Gates, archaeologist, leads us through the reeds at Perge.
Roman ruins loom over the reeds.
Anemone on our pathway
Oops. Dead end, due to the previous week's flooding. Back to Plan A.
Scott Redford, our guide, lectures in front of the agora.
We listen
. . . and listen.
Larry, ever the historian, loves all the detail.
Columns of Egyptian granite re-erected, thanks to individual donors
A temple of Nemesis right in the middle of the agora, or market place
Charles takes in the enormity of the reconstruction task ahead.
Reconstruction of the founder's gallery, formerly the city's triumphal entry gate
Perge's main street, built by the Romans
Water canal in the middle of the main street
One of many shops along the Roman road
Pedestrian bridge across the water canal
Wheel ruts from hundreds of years of wear by Roman vehicles
Cesme, or fountain, formerly pouring water from a cistern in the hill above, into the water canal
One of the few statues remaining on site. The others are in the Antalya Museum and likely in other museums as well.
Larry gazes into the ruins of a small Byzantine church, smack dab in the middle of the Roman road.
Some curious fauna
Oops, back to work!
The vendors picked up and followed us throughout the site.
Schema of the extensive Roman baths
Inside the baths
Roman Baths - the plunging pool
Roman Baths
Roman Baths - typical marble flooring
Roman Baths - calderium
Roman Baths - hot air flows between these small pillar beneath the floor
Roman Baths
Roman Baths
Roman Baths
Roman Baths
Leaving the Baths
Evidence as to why these are called "ruins"
Part of the grand entry into the city
Some of the local flora
Entry into the Founder's Gallery
Stadium - these vaults support the audience seating inside the stadium
Larry enters the stadium
Stadium, where various athletic contests were held
Stadium
Stadium - this picture best shows the size of this 30,000 seat site.
Stadium
Early morning stroll near our hotel, on the Mediterranean shore
view from our hotel
Last night's repast was here, across the street from the Kaptan Hotel, where we stayed.
The view of part of Castle Rock from the lighthouse near our hotel. We will head up this rock by bus, coming down by foot. The taller section cannot be seen from this vantage point. (Thank you, Barbara, for this photo)
Entering the inner fortress atop Castle Rock
Remaining Byzantine, then Seljuk, walls
11th century Byzantine Church
Part of the barracks within the fortress
Barracks, probably for the officers
Pathway among the highest barricades - @ 650 feet above the sea
A Byzantine monastery forms a peak on this rocky outcropping sticking out into the Mediterranean.
Looking west from the highest point of the fortress
Barbara takes photos of the eastern view from the Sultan's platform, 650 feet above the sea.
Looking down on the town of Alanya
On our walk down the hill, we pass one of hundreds of ancient cisterns.
We pass by the local village cemetery.
Ancient shop stalls along the road leading up and down Castle Rock
Pretty mosque - the Sulimaniye - in the village
Looking back up as we descend from the inner fortress
A handful of us take a side trip along this pretty walkway.
An alternative view from off the beaten path
Looking west from partway down the hill
A view through the narrow alleys of the outer fortress complex
Intrepid Alice joins our small group in investigating another section of the fortress.
Ellen lost her nerve going all the way to the top of the "sidetrip" route, so she looked around instead for more views.
Charles, like Ellen, didn't make it quite to the top of this part of the fortress--behind the camera. Larry made it, along with just one or two others.
Two of our three guides: Scott and Yunis. The third, Vicdan, stayed behind with those resting in a cafe--and eating the cookies she had made.
We returned to the rest of our group at an oudoor cafe. Here we bought hand-woven raw silk scarves from this vendor. I think she actually did the weaving, but I'm not positive.
Another Byzantine church; there are three within the fortress walls.
Part of the outer walls show evidence of older Roman construction. The large blocks are typically Roman. Later Byzantine and Seljuk blocks are smaller.
Carnot leads the way down this pretty road.
The Red Tower, a five-story octagonal structure built by the Seljuks in 1226.
Passing through one of the lower gates into the fortress, or, in our case, out of it.
Looking down on the Seljuk arsenal and shipyard, the only one remaining in Turkey, and the best preserved medieval arsenal in the Mediterranean area.
We believe this is the arsenal, but, though it was on our initerary, we ran out of time and did not get the tour--or the explanation.
Georgetown University's semester abroad center for Eastern Mediterranean studies. Scott, our guide, ran this program for 20 years.
The dining room inside the 170 year old Ottoman house
View of the Red Tower from the McGhee center
The classroom
Scott in his element, and his former classroom
The classroom ceiling
The library
Study room, lined with Victorian era carved woode panels
Climbing to the terraced gardens
On one level of the gardens
Scott at the house's "back" door
Looking down from the upper garden
Nice view for a picnic lunch
In the garden
The back door
Looking back at the house as we leave
A local mason at work on a house overlooking the harbor
We pass through one last fortress gate on our way down to the bus.
One last lunch at this town restaurant with, again, way too much food
Another pretty stone tiled floor outside the restaurant
At Kadir Bey's rug shop, he shows us a camel bag and "evil eye" ornament--the latter meant to reflect evil from the camels wearing it.
Some of the group attending Kadir Bey's orientation for the trip we will be taking next week.
Kadir Bey explains some of the rituals of camel wrestling; we will be seeing a camel wrestling competition next week.
Ercan and Meldan contemplate rugs for Ercan's new apartment.
Kadir Bey and Neslihan Hanim's unbelievable cook. We keep forgetting her name, alas. They keep feeding us!
More views of our favorite rug shop
The "dining room" where we've eaten at least five times already.
Mostly kilims (i.e., woven vs. knotted rugs) on the table
This is the Afghan rug Ercan bought for the entryway into his apartment.
More Ottoman artifacts in the "museum" beneath the rug shop
The basement of the rug shop; we call it a "museum," even though it's not one (yet). The unfinished furniture is from one of Kadir Bey's workshops.
Home of the Presidential Symphony Orchestra, one of the oldest orchestras in the world (begun in the early 19th century)
Extraordinary relief sculpture along the road to the concert hall. I will try to get a better picture in the daytime.
One of the more striking relief sculptures of Ataturk's visage. It is quite large and looms over the entry to the concert hall.
Entry hall chandeliers
We arrive early before the concert, in this small, pretty hall, where every seat is a good one.
The entryway is as pretty as we'd remembered it. The music was good too!
We were very early.
Also serves as The War of Independence Museum. No pictures allowed inside, alas.
Houses the Museum of the Republic.
Replica of the building
Entry hall. I love ceilings; they're all different.
General Assembly Hall
General Assembly Hall
General Assembly Hall, President's platform
General Assembly Hall
As with most cities, it takes time for roads to be cleared. Underlying ice also makes travel difficult.
The first snowman in the park across the street from our apartment (our building is in the background)
Like our Library of Congress--right down the street from us
We sample some Turkish delight in the Spice, or Egyptian, Bazaar.
An Epicurean paradise, especially if you like spices, Turkish delight, dried fruits, and nuts
Beautiful displays throughout the Bazaar
The Bazaar's namesakes
I meant to try some of this, but didn't wasn't sure what it was!
Exterior of the Spice Bazaar
Feed the birds, tuppence a bag
Built in 1597, Sinan's last mosque in Istanbul, hence the name "New Mosque"
Inner courtyard ablution station
Beautiful tiles
Close-up of Iznik tiles
Built for Suliman the Magnificent, and designed by the famous architect, Sinan, the mosque was constructed between 1550 and 1557.
View from the boat on a cold, rainy day
Dolmabache Palace - 19th century successor to Topkapi
Dolmabache - last Ottoman palace
Dolmabache Palace - water entry
Dolmabache Palace - main building
Dolmabache Palace - main building
Dolmabache Palace - staff building
Ciragan Palace - former Ottoman imperial building, now a hotel
Ciragan Palace
To take these photos, I had to step outside on the boat dock in the rain. The tour operator explained things inside the boat. Therefore, I have no idea what some of these buildings are!
Rumeli Hisari - built by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1452 in anticipation of his siege of Byzantine Constantinople
Rumeli Hisari
Rumali Hisari
Ottoman mansion on the Asian (Anadolu) side of the Bosphorus
Ottoman mansion
Ottoman mansion
Another Ottoman mystery building
Ottoman mansion
The Fountain of Sultan Ahmet III - just outside the main palace gate
Entering the palace grounds
The Imperial Gate
Inside the Court of the Janissaries
Great tree in the first courtyard
Stone mosaic floors
Another stone mosaic floor
The Third Court - for the Imperial family only
Larry takes in the Imperial family's view of the Sea of Marmara.
Mosque inside the palace
Ornate tiled wall inside the Audience Chamber
Wall panel of inlaid mother of pearl
Copper fireplace
Pavilion overlooking Gulhane Park
The Audience Chamber?
The Imperial Kitchens - closed, alas, for renovations! This, in my view, is the best part of the whole palace. Darn!
Suleyman the Magnificent's calligraphic signature
Entry into the Imperial Council Chamber
Ceiling inside the Imperial Council Chamber
Another ceiling inside the Imperial Council Chamber
Tiled fireplace
The Harem
Bath of the Valide Sultan (Sultan's mother)
The Harem
The Harem
The Harem - gorgeous Kutahya wall tiles from the 17th century
The Harem
The "Fruit Room," inside the Harem
The Princes' quarters
The Harem
Gilden ceiling outside the Imperial Council Chamber
Just another window
Unusual ceiling
Terrific traveling exhibit of Iranian artifacts from thousands of years. No cameras allowed inside.
As out-of-season visitors, we had the palace practically to ourselves.
Ottoman tombs along the main thoroughfare in the Sultanamet section of Istanbul
Although there are still many beautiful shops, there is a surplus of tourist trinkets.
Just a few of the 4,400+ shops in the Covered Bazaar
Grand entry into the university campus
Also called Haghia Sophia
So vast, the camera flash makes no difference
Marble floor pattern marking the spot where emperors were coronated.
Mimbar, from the time the building was used as a mosque (It is now a national museum)
The Virgin Mary, on the part of the ceiling hidden by scaffolding when we were last here fifteen years ago
Mihrab, designating the direction of Mecca
The Sultan's private balcony
Unusual marble wall panels
Enormous (about 5' tall) water container near entrance. "Brought here from Pergamon during the reign of Murad III (1574-1595). Originally from the Hellenistic period, it was carved from a single block of marble."
Larry rotates his hand in the "wishing post."
Tunnel/ramp to the second floor balcony and historical mosaics
From the balcony, Larry and Anna look down to the huge expanse below.
Photo of a photo, taken because the originals cannot be photographed with camera flash
One of the originals, the Comnenus mosaics - not too bad without flash. The Virgin Mary, holding the Christ, between John II Comnenus and Empress Irene.
The Deesis mosaic - Christ as Ruler sits between the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist. This is considered the finest of the mosaics in Aya Sofya.
More close-up photos of mosaics, including John the Baptist on the left
Christ Pantocrator, between Constantine IX Monomachus and Empress Zoe, the latter two holding their contributions to the church
Balcony ceiling
Theotokos mosaic in the apse: Virgin Mother and Child
Larry in the Empress's loge
Marble doors
On the floor of the balcony: the burial place of a leading Crusader
See previous picture
Viking graffiti from the 9th century
Greek graffiti
Empress Zoe mosaics: Christ Pantocrator sits between Constantine Monomachus and Empress Zoe, both offering donations to the church.
Back down to the main floor
More tile work
Above the southwest entrance, the Virgin Mother and Child are flanked by Justinian I and Constantine I, the first presenting her with the church, the latter, with the city of Constantinople.
Ablution fountain, built in 1740 by order of Sultan Mahmud I
One end of the park is flanked by Aya Sofya.
Within the park, delicious looking corn is sold. Don't be fooled, though--it tastes awful.
At the other end of the park is the Blue Mosque, or Sultanahmet Camii.
View from the Hippodrome. This work was commissioned by Sultan Ahmet (hence the name, Sultanahmet Camii), to rival the Aya Sofya. It is the only mosque of the time with six minarets, a controversial decision by the architect, Mehmet Aga.
Courtyard
The reason the Sultanahmet Camii is also called the Blue Mosque is that the Iznik tiles within are predominantly blue, although there are a lot of other colors as well. There are tens of thousands of tiles in this mosque.
From this view, the tiles don't look so "blue."
Natural light enhances the awesome effect
Blue Iznik tiles, giving rise to the mosque's nickname
I particularly liked the carpet design on the floor of the mosque.
Where chariots raced and Janissaries were killed, the Hippodrome is now a park. This obelisk, originally at Karnak in Egypt, and carved in the 1500s BCE, it is the oldest monument in Istanbul. It was brought here from Egypt in 390 AD by the Byzantine emperor Theodosius.
Fountain of Wilhelm II, 1898, presented to the Sultan as a token of friendship
An Ottoman building at one end of the Hippodrome, currently serving as an art center
This cistern was built by Justinian in 532 AD.
Eerie image of a large carp, and shadow. We noticed that some of the coins on the floor were "old" Turkish lira, meaning they are no longer honored as currency.
One of the 336 columns in the cistern
The "wishing" column; lots of coins on the floor near this column
All 336 columns are from ruined buildings. Nobody knows quite why Medusa's head is upside down at the base of this column.
This Medusa's head is sideways. The moss shows how damp it is in here.
More carp, and some goldfish
This road looks old, but is actually somewhat new. The charming buildings are reproduction Ottoman style, created by the Turkish Automobile Association.
Built to house the Topkapi Palace collections and more recent acquisitions. The Museum consists of three buildings: The Archaeology Museum (shown here), the Museum of the Ancient Orient, and the Tiled Kiosk.
Egyptian sarcophagus
Lycian tomb
One of many sarcophagi from the Royal Necropolis of Sidon (Lebanon), for which the museum was built
The Alexander Sarcophagus, one of the prized possessions of the museum. Dating from the 4th century BCE, it depicts Alexander and his army battling the Persians. Note the traces of early paint.
The Alexander Sarcophagus - one of the ends of the marble structure. Alexander was not buried in this tomb; it is named after him because of the carved reliefs of his exploits.
Alexander Sarcophagus. Another view, this one depicting a lion hunt.
The Mourning Women Sarcophagus. The sculptures are very lifelike and moving. They also bear traces of the original paint.
The Mourning Women Sarcophagus
I don't know the name of this sarcophagus, but I was duly impressed.
Another elaborate Roman sarcophagus from the Royal Necropolis of Sidon
Close-up of a Sidon sarcophagus
Another close-up
Mosaic
Floor mosaic
I love the roof "tiles" of this Sidon sarcophagus.
Thousands of pottery shards await classification and/or reconstruction from ongoing Istanbul excavations.
Recreation of the pediment from the Temple of Athena, at Assos, on the Aegean Sea.
The Tiled Kiosk. Originally part of the Topkapi Palace grounds, from which the royal family watched sporting events. Now a gorgeous tile museum.
Sappho, from Izmir (formerly Smyrna)
Oceanus - from Ephesus
Zeus awes Larry and Anna. (From Gaza)
Tyche, the Goddess of Good Luck, bestows some on Ellen's head. Who took this picture? (statue from Bolu)
Pan blows his pipes (from 3rd century Tirnova)
We drink tea and eat baklava at a rip-off cafe. Cok pahali (very expensive, to our surprise when we received the bill)
This is more like it. Dinner at the Pudding Shop, Lale Restaurant, cost the same as our earlier tea and baklava.
The Pudding Shop - we love this place.
After eating here and one other place (Can Cafe), for three days, we find out this is yet another Istanbul landmark among 1960s young ex-pats, and figured in the notorious movie, "Midnight Express."
Still under renovation, this is where we stayed while in Istanbul. It is in the Sultanamet neighborhood, right between the Grand (Byzantine) Palace excavations and the walls of Topkapi Palace. "Valide Sultan" means Sultan's Mother.
Nice, quiet, comfortable place. Too expensive in warm weather, though, so next visit we'll stay at our old haunt, the Park Hotel.
Our room is larger than these photographs make it look. Very comfortable.
Our room
Our room - Number 205, or Divan 1
The famous pedestrian shopping/eating/drinking street near Taksim Square. My photographs do not do justice to the thousands of people strolling here mid-day on a Friday.
Map of Turkey, in flowers
Egyptian style motifs in Anitkabir courtyard
Courtyard. In October, this courtyard was filled with thousands of people on the anniversary of the founding of the Turkish Republic.
Anna tries out the outdoor gym equipment across from our apartment.
Wheeeeee!
Time to get serious
Dinner with Ercan, Meldan and their friend
Dessert: cream puffs smothered in chocolate
Ercan and Meldan, brother and sister
Our third lunch at the rug shop of Kadir Bey and Neslihan Hanim
No! I can't buy anymore! Even if they are my favorite Hereke rugs.
Kadir Bey takes us to the Ankara mosque, the largest in all of Islam (in terms of the number of people praying there at once)
Restored seven hundred year old Ottoman houses
Just outside the Hacettepe main campus, this is where the medical students hang out.
Authentic Ottoman telephone booth. No, wait . . .
Kadir Bey, our tour leader, in his old childhood neighborhood, explaining all to Lucas
Extraordinary restoration work
I love this window.
"Before" and "After" pictures
Kadir Bey greets a childhood friend.
Waxed representatives of this Ottoman house's inhabitants. This house is now a museum.
Ottoman house museum - carved wooden ceiling
Beautiful door
Restored balcony
Making a drum in a local music shop
A knife maker sharpens a blade.
I found the hamam, where I bathed with a group of friends fifteen years ago!
This hamam, which is also 700 years old, is a real working neighborhood Turkish bath.
Hacettepe University established this "hostel" for families of children undergoing cancer treatment at the Hacettepe Hospital.
Anna and Larry follow Kadir Bey through a live "before" picture. These homes will either be renovated or demolished.
Centuries old mosque burial courtyard
Old houses awaiting renovation or demolition
Old houses awaiting renovation or demolition
Anna's old kindergarten, right next to our apartment building where we lived fifteen years ago
Anna's former kindergarten
Our apartment building where we lived fifteen years ago
The "bakkal," or little store in our apartment complex, where we bought our daily loaf of bread and newspaper
The village "bakkal," where we occasionally bought cheese and pistachio nuts. No longer a store.
The view from our apartment, looking away from the main Bilkent campus
Roman statues sit sideways in the Byzantine fortress walls
Still a vibrant community in this part of the "Old City" of Ankara
In the courtyard of the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations.
This large statue used to represent the city of Ankara. The original, much smaller, can be seen in the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. It is Hittite in origin (the smaller one).
Larry's lecture is titled: "The Meaning of Barack Obama's Election."
Bursa is a former capitol city of the Ottoman Empire.
A rapt audience
Larry visits the Cifte Minareli Medresa (Twin Minaret Seminary)
The main dome of the Twin Minaret Seminary
Inside the courtyard of the Twin Minaret Seminary
Larry contemplates the history of this thirteenth century Islamic theological seminary.
Imagining the students and teachers from 800 years ago?
Mongol theological seminary dating from 1310. Beautiful tile work.
Early morning trip to Xanthos. Some claim this was the capital city of the Lycian League, not Patara.
Approaching the extensive ruins of Xanthos
The Xanthian obelisk. With writing in different languages on all sides, this monument was instrumental in learning the basics of the Lycian language.
One side of the "Xanthian obelisk," enabling linguists to crack the code of the Lycian language--similar to the Rosetta stone from another culture.
Extraordinary Lycian sarcophagus
Pillar tomb - A completely unique tomb in Lycia, actually two tombs in one. A normal Lycian sarcophagus stands upon a shorter than usual pillar tomb. This tomb dates from the 3rd or 4th century B.C.E.
The Harpy tomb. The light colored reliefs at the top of the 21 foot monument are reproductions of the original marble reliefs taken by Charles Fellows to the British Museum in London.
The Harpy Tomb - The name derives from the depictions of harpies carrying off the souls of the dead.
Complex remains of what was presumably a multi-room palace.
Early morning view of thousand of greenhouses in the fertile Xanthos Valley.
Once a condundrum to archaeologists, this was finally determined to be a later Byzantine quarry.
Latrine? Well? Garbage pit? I vote for the first.
Broken top of a pillaged Lycian sarcophagus
A small portion of the basilica ruin's larger mosaic floor remains uncovered.
Most of this basilica's gorgeous mosaic floor remains covered as protection from the elements.
Yet another Greco-Roman theater. Ho, hum.
A view from the necropolis, over the ruins of the basilica, to the tall pillar tombs.
Another view
Excavated roadway
Inscription on the side of the recently excavated road
I don't remember which building contains this beautiful mosaic floor.
We need help with orientation among the ruins.
The back of the basilica
Looking up and over the area of the necropolis
A significant Lycian sarcophagus, "The Dancing Girl" tomb.
"The Dancing Girl" tomb. A rare example of movement on a tomb from this specific period in Lycian history.
A view of the extent of more ruins in Xanthos, beyond the larger buildings.
Another view of the marble road, formerly lined with shops, and likely a marble arch at one or both ends.
Ancient marble backgammon game!
Remnants of an arcade of shops
Larry enters the 600-foot high Saklikent Gorge.
The height, and narrow width, of this gorge prevents the sun from reaching the bottom.
Following the cold river farther into the gorge
Trying, and failing, to capture the majesty of this extraordinary place.
Stalactites forming on the walls of the gorge.
The raging waters prevent us from progressing as far into the canyon as we had planned.
Another attempt to show the height of this narrow gorge.
One more time.
We wish we could go further, but this is still very pretty--and impressive every time we look up.
Springs emerge from the mountain.
Nope. Still doesn't convey the grandeur of this 600-foot split in the middle of a mountain.
This mountain has had a long, violent geological history.
One of our fellow travelers contemplates a sip.
This gives some sense of how narrow this gorge is in places.
One last attempt looking up.
A truly beautiful spot within the gorge
The water is really moving right along.
Leaving the gorge
Some sediment from the fast moving water
This is what we had hoped to be doing a few miles into the canyon, but the current was too strong.
This picture was taken by someone with a better camera, and a better vantage point. Taken from a billboard.
A parting view of the gorge, reportedly discovered by a shepherd in 1988. It certainly is in a remote mountain area, so I believe the stories about the shepherd. Larry is more skeptical.
In high season, these kiosks are open to hordes of young people exploring the gorge, then partying throughout the evening.
Wild honey locust pod being sold by vendors outside the canyon. These are so sweet, people munch on them like candy. I stuck to my resolve not to eat "wild" foods on any of our trips.
The size of the seeds within the honey locust pods are so uniform that they are called "carat," and were once used as a unit of measurement.
Morning view from our hotel balcony
Walking to the bus for our day's adventures
On the way to Demre and Myra, we stop briefly at this beautiful mountain gorge and beach.
The gorge above Kaputas Beach
The small beach
On the road to Demre, we pass another sea - one of greenhouses, mostly tomatoes, but also some cukes and flowers.
Approaching the Lycian rock tombs at former Myra
The welcoming committee
Lycian rock tombs--a closer look
A single, free-standing Lycian tomb
Closer still
One at ground level
Faux wooden beams cut into the stone
Seemingly mythological imagery. Any ideas? Also, even more faux wooden beams
Greco-Roman amphitheater
A meeting of two cultures: Lycian rock tomb and Greco-Roman amphitheater
This theater is unusual for the large number of masks still in place (and not removed to distant museums)
Have a seat
My favorite of all the masks
Elaborate entryway into the theater
Masquerading as the Statue of Liberty
Another view of the Lycian tombs from the theater
More masks
Not a happy camper
To the light, darkly
Elaborate window
I like stairways
Elaborate pedestal
The museum of the bishop seat of St. Nicholas, aka, Santa Claus
Remaining fresco inside the Byzantine church built on the site of St. Nicholas's earlier church
We went through this church too quickly for me to identify all the saints on the frescoes.
The middle figure is obvious. I believe the one on the left is St. John the Baptist. Not sure, though.
Protected marble floor mosaics
This basilica complex is quite extensive.
Restoration of this building by Tsar Nicholas I of Russia added this vaulted ceiling in 1862.
St. Nicholas is on the right of the photo, holding a book.
I love mosaic floors.
Another beauty
And another
Still inside the basilica on the site of St. Nicholas's earlier church.
Our tour was all in Turkish; anyone know what this is?
Greek inscription
St. Nicholas was Bishop at Myra; his church was first built in the 3rd century B.C.E. This tomb is only slightly less elaborate than the one where St. Nicholas body was at rest until it was stolen in the 11th century by Italian raiders.
A prohibition on flash photography near the actual tomb of St. Nicholas prevented me from chronicling the more famous one. This one is in another part of the church where photos were okay.
A fresco of the beloved St. Nicholas.
One of many frescoes of St. Nicholas helpling others.
One of the nicest frescoes surviving in the St. Nicholas Church
Renovation work continues on St. Nicholas Church.
St. Nicholas, protector of children and seafarers
St. Nicholas's influence is invoked to enhance world peace.
Authentic 4th century eating establishment. No, wait . . .
Lycian tombs everywhere
A reminder of our Yedigoller bus ride, but without the snow
View to the sea from the bus
Traffic police along the road
House walls
Stairway from nowhere to the sea
Ghostly houses under the sea
Somebody has a garden behind those bushes.
Perhaps these are the phantom gardeners.
Sunken ruins
Sunken ruins
Someone's very damp basement
This may be a recent reconstruction, but I'm not sure.
Another classic postcard view
Another eerie stairway
Can't you just picture the family that once lived here?
Sunken ruins--perhaps an ancient pier
The other half of ancient Simena, now called Kalekoy. Kale means fortress; koy means village. It is also just referred to as Kale, for obvious reasons.
More Lycian tombs
They are everywhere
Approaching the medieval fortress of the brutal Knights of St. John
We begin the climb to the crusader fortress
Still climbing
Lycian rock tombs on the way up the hill to the fortress
Looking down from about one third of the way up the hill to the fortress
Our hike flattens out on occasion
Looking down from the lower walls of the fortress
Fortress crenellations (am I spelling this correctly?)
Tiny theater cut into the rock outcropping inside the fortress walls
We catch our breath as Onur explains the history of the fortress
View from the little theater
A local villager helps the oldest member of our tour group
Looking down on the ancient Lycian tombs from the vantage point of the medieval fortress
Looking down from the summit of the fortress
Guess what?
Amazing view from the summit of the fortress
Larry contemplates history and beauty
Annanne (grandmother), the oldest member of our tour, makes it to the summit!
Onur calls us back down; time to hop back on the boat.
This tomb has a new occupant--an olive tree.
Muge, our dinner companion in the evenings
Leaving Kalekoy
One of several charming pensions in Kalekoy
Sunken Lycian tomb, one often featured on postcards and in tour books
Looking back on the quiet, charming town -- with the violent history, both historical and geological
My future retirement home? No, wait, I liked Kas.
On the way back to our point of departure
More tombs
Close-up of those tombs
Evidence of tomb plundering
My favorite Mediterranean town, Kas has this vibrant seaside village square, used by hundreds of people even during this off-season.
Maybe this is my dream retirement home. Nope, too big. Maybe it's a pension.
Pretty side street in Kas (pronounced Kosh)
We serendipitously meet a member of our tour group, who tells us of a great Lycian monument a little farther up the street.
Wow! This 21-foot tall "King's Tomb" was carved from a single block of stone -- pedestal, tomb, and cap.
Note the lions' head "gargoyles"
Larry shows the scale of this enormous monument.
A rare example of a Lycian inscription on a tomb
This may be it -- my retirment home!
View from our hotel room balcony. Delicious oranges
This photo is for Dorothy.
Lycian sarcophagus in Fethiye (formerly Telmessos)
Ripe pomagranates. Freshly squeezed, with freshly squeezed oranges - makes a terrific juice (or suyu in Turkish)
Greco-Roman Theater. Our guide, Onur, shows the size of the one that got away. No, wait . . .
Egg and dart motif common in Roman architecture
Roman amphitheater is still being excavated.
Roman amphitheater - Anyone know what the knobs are for? We don't.
Roman amphitheater, stage area
Fethiye's current name (since the 1930s) derives from the first Turkish air pilot killed in World War 1.
Statue to the WW1 pilot, Tay Yareci Fethi Bey. (Tay Yareci is Ottoman Turkish for 'pilot')
Boats in the harbor
Larry contemplates which way to turn
We'd love to go on a snorkeling cruise.
. . . or a Blue Yacht cruise.
This is the type of fish we (well, I) ate at dinner that night at our hotel in Kalkan.
The "ghost" town of Kayakoy, a Greek village abandoned in the 1930s after a population exchange between Turkey and Greece
Possibly a small chapel
Abandoned homes, around 2000 total
More abandoned homes that once housed 6,000 Greeks
What's left of a home after wood, tiles and other materials were stripped from it
Remains of the interior of a home, with chimney still intact, more or less
Annane (grandmother) climbs the hills as well as the rest of us.
The "Upper Church"
Stone mosaics form the outer courtyard floor of the Upper Church.
Path leading down from the Upper Church
Another view of the Upper Church
Inside the Upper Church
Inside the Upper Church
View from inside the Upper Church
Upper church's inner stone tile floor
Very old fig tree
Some paint survives
We begin our descent out of the abandoned town
Onur points out a small chapel, halfway between the Upper and the Lower churches
A house in its more or less original state
Don't know if this was actually restored
Inside the "last remaining original house . . ."
Nicely preserved household chimney
One building restored to house an art museum--closed for the holiday. Beautifully carved door
Art museum sign
We continue downhill.
Overview of Kayakoy
One of the few remaining residents
Looking back up the hill
The mountains surround Kayakoy
The Lower church
Well worn path leading from the Lower church
The Lower church
The Lower church entrance
Beautiful stone mosaic inside the Lower church
Inside the Lower church
Dome on the ceiling of the Lower church
Altar area inside the Lower church
Faux Leonardo DaVinci's "Last Supper"
Lower church entryway; date of church construction in stone mosaic
Lunch at Kayakoy locanta (restaurant)
Making our lunch of gozleme--thin bread stuffed with cheese and spinach & cooked in a stone oven
Preparing the gozleme
Gozleme - delicious!
This area is one of the greatest paragliding spots in the world.
The sun is getting lower at this beautiful Mediterranean beach
The water is inviting, but just a bit too cold for me
Larry finishes the leftover gozleme -- quickly, as we didn't realize we were supposed to pay (a lot) to sit on this chaise.
Called "Oludeniz," or the Dead Sea, because it is cut off from the Mediterranean. There is nothing, though, "dead" about it.
What is this?
Love the colors at this beach.
We are tourists, after all.
Across the water of Oludeniz. The little house is for the water rats?
One of many paragliders at Oludeniz
I want to come back here when it's warmer--although so do thousands of others.
Small, but beautiful beach just before sunset
Closer to the water, we see the charm of Kalkan we missed yesterday.
Kalkan's charming center near the water
Some of the former Greek buildings, before the early 20th century population exchange
Bougainvillea
Kalkan's waterfront
The main square in central Kalkan
Looking up toward the surrounding mountains. Kalkan sits in a bowl cascading down to the sea.
Watching the sun set from the bay's breakwater
"The Creach," or whale hunting in Kalkan bay?
We start our trip with a Thanksgiving dinner at the Nelson's, one block from where we catch the 11:30 p.m. bus to the Mediterranean.
Pre-bus ride Thanksgiving dinner. We are thankful for the opportunity to go on this trip.
After fitfully sleeping on the overnight bus, we awake for breakfast in Fethiye, on the Mediterranean. These pelicans were the first to greet us.
Larry contemplates early morning on Fethiye's boardwalk. The beanbags await later visitors.
Our group enjoys our first breakfast on the bay.
Early morning, off-season Fethiye.
Letoon - the first historical site of our visit.
Greco/Roman theater in Letoon.
Walking through archaeological finds
Nymphaeum. Frogs occupying the waters are said to descend from the local populace, turned into frogs by the vengeful goddess, Leto.
Temple of Leto, mistress of Zeus, and mother of Artemis and Apollo
Temple of Leto
Ionic ruins
Inside the partially restored Temple of Leto
Temple complex cut into local rock; current village houses
Temple of Leto, photo op
Nymphaeum - later site of a 4th century Byzantine church, built over the central, rectangular, part of the nymphaeum
Vaulted passage into the Greco-Roman theater
Theater damage likely caused by earthquakes. This area is geologically active; i.e., lots of earthquakes, some severe.
Greco-Roman theater
Our guide, Onur Erturk, explains the Greek origins of and Roman enhancements to this theater.
Triumphal arch; this is the closest we got to this monument. Patara is a very large site.
Ruins
Remains of a Roman bath complex
Archaeological finds in front of Greco-Roman theater
Lone inhabitant
Distant view of Patara's ancient main road, on the way to the agora
Parliamentary building of the Lycian League, containing the Odeon, or meeting place.
Parliamentary building. Patara was the government center for the Lycian League.
Greco-Roman theater
Portion of Patara's columned main street, with reproductions atop a few of the columns
Ionic capital, reproduction
Portion of the main roadway, similar to the one in Ephesus
Water channel?
Patara's main roadway on the way to the agora. Note the lack of wheel ruts; hence, this was likely pedestrian only.
More inhabitants outside the theater
Back wall of the theater stage--this portion is generally added to Greek theaters by later Romans.
Inscription identifying the donor who subsidized the building of the theater.
Roman relief of gladiator. Where the Greeks built theaters for plays, the brutal Romans added protective walls to shield spectators from wild animals during gladiatorial combats.
Inside the theater
Patara Beach - western view. This gorgeous beach, one of the most beautiful in the Mediterranean, is 14 km. long, and 50 meters wide. The stakes at the right denote nesting sites of protected sea turtles.
Patara Beach - eastern view
Roman lighthouse where once the sea reached the city of Patara. Now the sea is a mile or so away.
Patara Beach - western view. The gray sand is natural and extremely fine.
Our hotel is the large pink building complex to the center/left. Construction makes access difficult. This is our base for the three days of our Mediterranean trip.
Our living room in the Samira Deluxe Apart Otel
Our bedroom
Our kitchen
This is the small Milas rug I am carrying home with me. It measures 4' x 6'.
Stephen Fadden, Native American story teller, gets the crowd's attention with a haunting tune.
Stephen Fadden impersonates a haughty eagle.
Stephen Fadden tells of the hermit thrush's triumph over the eagle.
Dinner at a downtown meyhane, or tavern
Lots of meze choices at the meyhane
Desserts at Meldan's party, marking the end of the conference at Hacettepe
Party at Meldan's
Party at Meldan's - Evalina Zuni Lucero and Hector Meldonado
Meldan's party - Valerian Three Irons, Meldan Tanrisal, and Stephen Fadden (and somebody's elbow)
Meldan's party
Meldan's party - Lincoln McCurdy and Recep Boztemur
Meldan's party
Meldan's party - Willard Sakiestewa Gilbert and Hector Meldonado
Meldan's party - Evelina Zuni Lucero and the two Eces
Meldan's party - we protect those heirloom rugs from our dirty shoes
Ibraham and Abdulkadir Ersoy hold up the Usak rug we are buying
Our new flying carpet
The shop is like a museum
A young customer contemplates the choices
Too many choices!
Neslihan and Abdulkadir Ersoy
Large Kurdish rugs, each one unique
Our small purchase - the colors are off; what looks like pale purple is really beige
Typical neighborhood street; albeit one of the lesser trafficked ones
We discover a great place to work out, within walking distance of our apartment.
Ataturk's Mausoleum (Anitkabir) in the background
The outdoor gym
Guess who?
The outdoor gym
Another view
Resting between quiet music speakers and roses still in bloom around Thanksgiving time. Soccer field in the background.
There he is again!
The outdoor gym
The central machine is a back massager.
Kids play basketball.
After the festival. Who are these people?
Larry, Gozde, and Kenan, awaiting the start of the festival.
Gulcin and her boyfriend (who took the picture) join us in the hotel bar.
Serife!
An annual roving tradition in Turkey
Gulcin and her boyfriend, whose name I've forgotten (Sorry, Gulcin!)
In the ballroom, waiting for the show to begin
Jockeying for position before the show
Ray Shinnery warms up the crowd.
Ray Shinnery - a commanding presence
Larry and Ceylan debate the finer points of Blues.
Ray Shinnery
Terry Evans
Shemekia Copeland
Terry Evans and his band
An outside break between sets
Between sets costume competition (among friends)
Our intrepid driver, Gozde
Shemekia Copeland warms up the already heated crowd
Shemekia Copeland is a hit!
After the concert
The end
The 9th century "hisar," with Roman fragments, becomes home to first the "elite" of Ankara, then the poor.
9th century tower in the Hisar, with Roman fragments
Inscribed Roman fragments in the Hisar. Greek was the common language at the time.
Roman fragment in 9th century "hisar"
Hisar, with Roman keystone
9th century hisar, lower skirt, with lots of Roman artifacts within the walls
Diversion - late 19th, early 20th century, house within the lower walls of the the hisar
Hisar - entryway to the inner fortress; lots of Roman blocks in walls
View from the hisar. Some gece condos still remain; these are more substantial than those replaced near the airport.
View from the hisar
View from the hisar, showing the location of the former center of Roman Ankara.
View from the hisar
Roman Theater - recent excavations continue
Roman Theater - tunnel
Roman Theater - collapsed tunnel
Roman Theater - stage
Roman Theater - stage area
Roman Theater - stage
Temple of Augustus and Rome (Monumentum Ancyranum) - entry gate
Res Gestae Divi Augusti - here is the beginning of the Latin inscription of Augustus's accomplishments.
Res Gestae - very beginning of the only extant copy of the first Roman Emperor's official record of his career
Temple of Augustus wall, completely covered with the Greek version of the Res Gestae
Temple of Augustus and Rome, remaining wall
Res Gestae
Temple of Augustus . . . inner wall. Holes are from looting of lead braces during the Middle Ages.
Res Gestae
Temple of Augustus and Rome, juxtaposed with attached mosque.
Res Gestae
Greek version of Res Gestae - at the Temple of Augustus and Rome. Greek was the common language at the time.
Res Gestae in Greek
Temple of Augustus and Rome - Greek "graffiti" or illustrations? Including the Greek cross
Temple of Augustus and Rome, juxtaposed with attached mosque
Res Gestae - Greek version
Temple of Augustus and Rome - view through the entry gate; the background addition is either of Christian or Muslim origin; the jury is still out among archaeologists.
View of the "hisar," or citadel, from the Temple of Augustus and Rome
Temple of Augustus and Rome - fallen block
Part of the Temple of Augustus complex. A large chunk of this later structure has fallen, and will likely remain as an homage to archaeology itself.
Column of Julian - Larry approaches. This column may have been built in honor of Emperor Julian, the Apostate.
Column of Julian - note the stork's nest on top. Fifteen years ago, we saw the stork!
This building was a government center during the early years of the Turkish Republic; near the Column of Julian, which was moved to its current location during construction of these buildings
Beautiful architecture!
Roman road, partially obscured by an outdoor cafe.
Roman road, partially obscured by an outdoor cafe.
Roman Baths, as seen from atop a government building
Roman baths - the green area is most of the "palaestra," or exercise area outside the baths.
Roman baths. Some of the site still remains under a heavily used road, and modern Ankara buildings.
Roman baths
Roman baths - we did not know this huge site even existed, as it is in part of Ankara we seldom visit.
site of the Roman Baths - also used to house extra Roman artifacts belonging to the Musuem of Anatolian Civilizations.
Site of the Roman Baths - housing extra Roman artifacts belonging to the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations.
Site of the Roman Baths - Roman artifacts, generally from elsewhere.
Roman Baths - tepidarium (warm room) in the foreground; the calderium (hot room) behind
Roman Baths - caldarium, larger than usual because of Ankara's cold climate
Shallow wading pool. This may also be the frigidarium (cold room), but I'm to sure. The frigidarium may be separate from this pool.
Roman Baths - drainage ditch. The Romans were masters at controlling water.
Roman Baths - the source of the heat supplying the baths.
Roman Baths - example of the marble that would have lined the wading pool in Roman times.
Roman gravestone - stored at the site of the Roman Baths. Note the carved door as entryway into the afterlife.
Roman gravestone, highlighting some of the virtues of the deceased; e.g., the lower left shows the person was a weaver.
Elaborate Roman gravestone
Roman gravestone
These were on display at an Ankara art gallery.
These were on display at an Ankara art gallery.
Down the street from our Bahcelievler apartment
Approaching Anitkabir, Ataturk's Mausoleum, within walking distance of our apartment
Approaching Ataturk's Mausoleum
Selling to those approaching Anitkabir
We join the crowds entering the grounds of the Anitkabir
Larry gets into the spirit of the day.
These are some of the biggest flags I've ever seen.
This is our neighborhood as seen from Ataturk's Mausoleum. The colorful roof is the location of our Friday produce bazaar.
Waiting in line to pay respects to Ataturk inside the Mausoleum
Since the line looped around the large courtyard, moving slowly, we decided to pay our respects at another time.
The Lion Walk, similar to the Karnac Temple in Egypt
This lion, symbolizing power, seems pretty tame.
Immediately after the changing of the guard, like at Buckingham Palace
The tower of Freedom (or Independence; there are two towers; not sure which is which)
People display their flags, as folks at home do on July 4.
Early morning, waiting for the bus for our second attempt at visiting Yedigoller National Park
First day, first stop, on our second Tempo Tur excursion.
Local flora
The lake has several large resorts. This is a local vacation spot.
Around the lake
One of the many restaurants/inns around the lake. We took refuge from the rain on a covered swing in back.
A fairly new boardwalk enables walkers to view close up a large swamp on one end of the lake
I tried getting a photo of the ubiquitous decorated horse drawn carriages used by people who didn't want to walk around the lake, but they moved too fast. Had to settle for a tractor.
The swamp at one end of the lake
Denuded hills on one side of the lake--possibly summer grazing ground?
Larry tests the local mineral water. Tastes salty and full of health-promoting minerals.
Our guide (in red jacket) and others in our group drink to their health.
Two springs (cesmeler), keep the mineral waters flowing.
The Travertens, calcium deposits cascading down the mountainside.
The bottom of the Travertens; note the road down below.
The Travertens.
Some of our fellow travelers take a closer look.
"But I don't want to go any closer"!
The stairway nobody dared venture down.
The official name of the Travertens.
Somebody (local officials? tourism industry? private individualz?) installed cement troughs to control the flow of water, thereby creating travertine "pools." To rival the natural formations of Pamukkale, farther to the West, maybe?
More artificially created pools
Akkaya means "white cliff." Akkayalar means "white cliffs."
Arriving early at our Bolu hotel, Larry and I walk around town--briefly, because it started raining--again.
The view of the city of Bolu from our hotel room. On a rainy day.
From our hotel room
Looks like we missed the "Coke'n Music" festivities.
The rain just won't stop.
The leaves are just beginning to turn.
In the foreground is our unpaved one-lane mountain road. In the background is a 1000+ foot drop. Note the lack of guardrails. And the snow!
Picture taken from the bus, about two feet from the edge of the road, while I can still keep my eyes open.
On the summit of one mountain, this is the "other" side of the road. The left side is about 1000+ feet down; this only a few hundred.
Mountaintop rest stop?
The snow thickens.
Mountaintop rest stop; tea anyone?
Mounaintop vendor of mushrooms and dried flowers
See why my hair turned grayer still?
Clearly I was obsessed with this road; that's because I was scared to death for a very long time.
It was a loooooong ride to Yedigoller. This better be worth it!
Can I relax now?
We begin our ascent up a path in the rain. (The snow stopped as we started the road descent)
We stop to climb a path for a better view (like I need more reminders of how high we are).
Larry wants a better view.
We contemplate the clouds, as the mountain view is obscured.
More people join Larry at the top.
We climb back down to the bus. I've enhanced this picture so it can be seen; it was in reality darker because of the rain.
Back to the bus and passengers who didn't want to climb.
Through a beech forest to the granddaddy of black pine trees. The rain gets heavier.
Through the beech forest.
Through the beech forest.
Our 16 year old friend leans against the 500 year old black pine atop a high hill.
The canopy of the 500 year old pine
EEE and the big pine.
The "bear" tree is the only "fauna" we see all day.
Finally! We reach Yedigoller, "Seven Lakes National Park."
Exotic fungus on a rotting tree
The first two, tiny, lakes. At different levels, one spills into the other.
Park camps to rent
Beautiful old beech tree
Waterfall between two of the seven lakes
Another view of the waterfall
In Spring, with the snow melt, this is probably a real torrent.
Bridge
Intrepid campers. The rain is quite heavy by now.
Campers trying to eat lunch in the rain
Another lake--very pretty.
Mother and son put their umbrella away. We all stop caring about getting wet and muddy.
Larry contemplates a swim. Brrrrr.
This is why I now have brown, rather than white, sneakers.
Wet but happy to have finally made it here
The water is warmer than the air.
We gave up on the last walk; too cold and wet (and hungry)
Our fearless bus driver, the Captain, prepares to cook our lunch over a covered barbecue pit.
We jockey for position to warm our hands over the fire and stay out of the rain.
We are cold and very wet, but the food tastes great after a long wait.
Question: Is this runoff from torrential Spring snow melt, or are these manmade piles of rubble? Will we ever know?
Wall ceramic
Wall ceramic
Wall ceramic
Wall ceramic
Wall ceramic
Wall ceramic
Wall ceramic
Wall ceramic
Wall ceramic
Free standing ceramic
Wall ceramic
Wall ceramic
Wall ceramic
Wall ceramic
Wall ceramic - set into wall
Wall ceramic
Wall ceramic
This is what the "houses with gardens" looked like, which gave Bahcelievler its name.
Same house; I would guess this is from the early 20th century.
This was an atypical lunch I prepard for myself, including "The Iman Fainted," the eggplant, onion dish to the right.
The lunch also included half of a "simit," or Turkish version of a sesame bagel.
Our friend from Dresden, Germany
Our new friends, Alice and Carnot Nelson, enjoy dessert
Afiyet olsun!
Renan and Alice enjoy dessert and tea, the latter in cute little traditional "butterfly" glasses
With the students back on campus, lines for the dozens of buses suddenly got much longer.
A quick visit for yet another official document, to the main campus in downtown Ankara--the medical school.
With a dawn departure on our way to our first excursion. Caught these swans sleeping in Kogulu Park.
This one was awake.
With a long history of beautiful ceramics, Turkey decorates its highway underpasses. Beautiful!
Typical view of the countryside--vast panoramas for many miles everywhere in Anatolia (except the cities of course).
Single home in the middle of nowhere.
One of dozens of small villages on the vast Anatolian plain viewed from the bus to Bolu.
Not your typical New Jersey Turnpike rest stop.
Larry takes in the sights behind the rest stop, on our way to Bolu.
Back of the rest stop.
Looks like the Wild West.
Another view of the Anatolian plain, near Bolu.
Approaching Bolu, the town of Gerede, significant in the history of the Revolution and Ataturk's founding of the Turkish Republic.
Ancient hamam, or public bath, still used by the local population. It was open the day we stopped for a twenty-minute visit.
Wish we had time for a sauna.
Now we've visited two of five Selcuk mosques in the entire country. Must find the other three.
"Selcuk" is pronounced "Seljuk." The upper balcony is where women worship.
The imam's pulpit, the "mimber."
The "mihrab" in any mosque indicates the direction of Mecca and corresponds to the altar in a church.
Today is "men's" day at the hamam. Larry wishes he had more time for a sauna.
A leisurely stroll around the lake, frequented by local college students on an outdoor outing.
The foreigners
Unusually bright green moss on the north sides. Looks day-glo
Ahh. Fresh air to breathe.
Second time around the lake
Pretty high up in the hills/mountains surrounding Bolu.
Approaching Karacaagac Highland summer cottages.
Summer cottages high above the lake and compound. Empty at the moment. (It's getting cold).
Rare wooden houses, generally built by Bolu residents to escape the city's summer heat.
Karacaagac Highland. Kara=black. Agac=tree. Black pine trees all around, making good building materials.
Log cabin; built like those on the U.S. frontier; no nails.
Karacaagac Highland houses
Back of log cabin
Karacaagac Highlands, local mosque
Simple construction from local materials.
Karaacagac Highlands, more summer houses
Karaacagac Highlands. Some weary walkers. Our guide on far left.
The local "sheriff?" Note the badge next to the name, "Serif," actually pronounced "sheriff." "Serif" is a common Turkish name as well.
Fellow travelers, both doctors. One radiologist (on left of picture), one family physician. The latter helped me obtain a prescription the next day.
"Karacaagac Summer Homes"
Continuing our climb.
Picking and eating wild somethings--miniature crabapples, like our "crabapple necklaces?"
Moonscape--tough on the feet; like early New England fields, but without the flora.
We finally reach the lake--referred to as the "Aladag Puddle." :-)
Another view of "Aladag Puddle."
Permament wooden "tents" at the lake.
View by bus; these new houses are attractive to Larry and me
Pears galore in Gulriz's back "common area"
Common area in Mutlu Koy, Gulriz's "back yard."
new, completed construction near Gulriz's apt.
Huge new single family homes being constructed across the street from Gulriz's apt.
Just inside the "hisar," or fortifications atop a large hill in "Old Ankara," we had lunch in an old Ottaman house turned restaurant. Steep, narrow stairs, elderly women making bread, broad views of downtown Ankara and surrounding area. Great food, if too much.
Ottoman houses within the "hisar"
Outside the entrance to the museum on a beautiful, warm day.
Outside, waiting for the guided tour to begin.
Outside. We were not allowed to take pictures inside--perfectly understandable.
Main entry to the museum. This used to be a 15th century "han" and horse trading center. Ataturk had a vision of turning this into a museum, beginning the process of extensive renovations. I cannot remember if he lived long enough to see if open. It is gorgeous and full of incredible artifacts from hundreds of years of archaeological excavations, and thousands of years of history.
Outside.
Copper Alley
Looking back up at the "hisar" walls, as we begin our descent down the long hill to Ulus--the bustling early neighborhood in downtown Ankara. It is a very long, steep walk to Ulus from the hisar.
An Ottoman house within the hisar walls.
The inner walls of the hisar, or early fortifications in Old Ankara. Note the Roman ruins incorporated into the construction of this wall.
Beginning our descent.
Old Ankara -- still near the top
Nifty old shops and cafes. Still near the top.
Approaching very old Seljuk mosque
More shops. Although this is a prime tourist area, lots of people have continued to live and work here.
This Seljuk mosque is one of only five in the country from the 14th century. Despite being 700 years old, it is still used on a regular basis and is in excellent condition. The flat roof is typical of Seljuk architecture. Most other mosques in Turkey have domed roofs.
The columns in the mosque are solid pine tree trunks. The capitals are from earlier Roman times. The ceiling is carved wood, constructed with no nails. Beautiful!
Continuing our descent after a tour of the Seljuk mosque.
More shops
Looking back up.
Copper Alley
"Cay Evi," or "Tea House," in an underground alleyway
Continuing down the hill, we leave the more touristy area and enter the street vendor area where residents purchase their clothing and household goods. Farther down is the food bazaar, which was too dark for good photos (and crowded).
EEE contemplates the purchase of a pillow.
Statue of Ataturk. I believe this is the first such statue in Ankara, if I remember the guide correctly.
Another view of the statue of Ataturk. By now we have reached the bottom of the loooooong hill. I wouldn't want to walk back up. Next time--a taxi or dolmus (the latter being a minibus; "dolmus" means "stuffed." They are.)
Waiting for a bus to take us back to the bus stop which takes us back to our apartment. We messed up on bus selection pretty badly during this, the Friday afternoon rush hour. But, after several false moves, we eventually made it home.
Bedroom
Spare bedroom, with lots of children's stickers on walls, cupboards and drawers. Cute. Our landlords lived here with their little girls until fairly recently.
Entry hallway
Small, but fully equipped kitchen.
Hallway, looking toward living room.
Another, larger, spare room. Visitors, anyone?
The living room is actually bigger than it looks here. We are really rattling around in this large apartment.
Living room.
Dining area. We actually eat in the little counter in the kitchen. This is where we keep our extensive paperwork available.
From the living room along the hallway to Larry in the bedroom -- a long way away. Great for sliding on the shiny floors.
Entryway, with antique treadle sewing machine and poster of a bullfighter (????)
A view of the park from our fourth floor apartment across the street.
Ripening chestnuts outside our balcony window, but not within reach, alas. As we are on the fourth (top) floor of the building, this is one tall chestnut tree.
Another view of the neighborhood from our apartment.
Our landlords, with their cute little daughters. They win the "landlord of the year" award, and have been wonderful to us.
The park across the street from us.
Our new outdoor "gym," not as extensive as the one at Mutlu Koy.
This is our apartment building. Ours is on the top floor, at the far right in this view.
Our "pet" raven.
This is our walking/running track in the middle of Mutlu Koy, or "Happy Village," Gulriz's housing complex.
Our outdoor gym.
Our outdoor gym
Our walking/running track
Our "bakkal," or convenience store at the top of the walking/running track.
Guess who? At our outdoor gym
Our visitor during Seker Bayram, whose father, Hassan, helped us get various things fixed in the apartment
The Galleria--our local small shopping mall, and bus stop
Our outdoor lunch spot--and that of the bees
Statue of Ataturk
Waiting for the free service bus to take us home
These are the "lojmanlar," or university housing we were first promised; too bad it didn't happen
"Lojmanlar" and new student dormitories
Larry and Meldan in front of the library, or "kutuphane"
Us in front of the library
Newly installed mosaic
Newly installed huge painting
Larry's "office"
The view of Ankara's early morning smog from Hacettepe University
Tunali Himli cafe. This was a well traveled road (by us) fifteen years ago. It's a hopping place on a Saturday night.
Tunali Himli street entertainer
Kugulu Park (Swan Park), pronounced Ku oo lu, where Larry, Anna and I spent many leisurely hours fifteen years ago.
Looking for a handout
Success!
Very popular on a Saturday evening
New construction around the old village of Umitkoy -- Gulriz's neighborhood.
Bilkent University constitutes the buildings high on the hill, on the horizon
Foundations of the former gece condular are in the foreground
Where once were shacks, hastily built by new arrivals, there are now new apartment buildings.
Foundations of the former gece condular are in the foreground.
Bilkent buildings are on the horizon, not the foreground, nor midground
"Old" (built @ 1985) library on right; new addition on left (built 1995/96)
Home to Special Collections, art collection, media collections, and current periodicals.
Turkey's (maybe the world's?) leading Ottoman scholar.
Containing Dr. Inalcik's books and manuscripts @ Ottoman history
Part of the library's Special Collections
Contains rare and special books, including a collection of beautifully illustrated books about Turkey, some quite old
She turned 99 years old this week!
Enjoyed by all, including Ayse's roommate, the health care workers, and us
On the walk outside our Mutlu Koy apartment, where we stayed approximately three weeks
The common area of our apartment complex
Entryway toward our apartment
The section of Ankara called Umitkoy was named for this village. It is surrounded by new buildings and is gradually being incorporated into the city.
The village. Mutlu Koy is in the larger part of Ankara, Umitkoy, named for this village.
This village is surrounded by new buildings, some highrises, but my pictures of the newer buildings did not come out well. (I was in a moving car).
Local produce market.
Many choices--all so fresh!
A sale
Spud mountain
Who can resist?
Visne - or, sour cherries
Karpuz (watermelon) heaven
Construction never stops, despite the global downturn
I like this house.
Within walking distance of Gulriz's apartment
Anna looking at the view from Malibu Canyon road.
Later in life, my father took to whittling, or wood sculpting. I forget the name of this saint.
My father drew this when he was in high school. It was my inspiration to pursue a life as an artist. Alas!
hiking with Anna in the park near Richard's home in Encino