Denise and Hugo - EGYPT 08

Second a self-driving car trip from Paris to Provence, to Tuscany in Italy and then to Rome and fly home.

EGYPT Days 1 - 7

Day 1: Adelaide to Singapore
We left home at 9 am to Adelaide airport and checked in – my bag was 21 KG and Denise’s 19.5 Kg so that was really close to the 40Kg allowed. The Singapore Air plane took off at 1pm and arrived in Singapore 5.20 pm local time.
We stayed 6 hours at the Singapore Transit hotel and Day 2 arrived.

Day 2: Singapore to Cairo to Giza
At 1 am we went to the boarding gate. Boarded at 1.45am but mechanical trouble delayed departure until 3.10 am. We had supper at 4 am then slept for 4 hours. Breakfast was at 5.30 am (due to time change on the way).

We arrived in Cairo 7.20 am in nice weather. The Bunnik representative did not meet us as arranged so we went through immigration by ourselves and then he turned up. We were waved through customs without any checking but some people were searched.

At 8 am in a minibus we went to the hotel in Giza. The traffic here is amazing, millions of cars but no problems as everyone knows when to give way or go ahead. Cars just then left or right into traffic without stopping and just merge into it. Lanes and traffic lights are not observed.

We got to Le Meridien Pyramids hotel in Giza at 9.30am and booked into a standard room. We bought some breakfast at the hotel and walked to the Pyramids 10 minutes away for our first view. All the time being hassled by people touting for taxis, horse carriages or donkey rides, or selling trinkets.

We didn't actually go into the Pyramid site but it was good to see the Pyramids however even from the road. They are fantastic and huge.
Then lunch at the hotel and a sleep. Then at 6 pm we walked to the Pyramids again as it was cooler. Then back again to hotel and bed at 10pm. A busy day but we had a nice King size bed and we slept well.

Day 3: Giza to Alexandria
We had booked a private tour to Alexandria so we had to get up at 5.30 am, booked out of our room and stored our luggage.

The minibus picked us up at 7.30am for the long drive to Alexandria. The road was good in parts and very bad in other places. We got to Alexandria at 10.15 am to meet Nevine our guide for the day. She is an Egyptologist and first we went to the Alexandria Musuem which was excellent to see.

Lunch had been arranged at a restaurant and then we were off to see the Catacombs of Kom El-Shouqafa. We drove through a market street and the traffic was unbelievable. Cars were triple parked everywhere and stalls were on the roadway.

After the Catacombs we went to see the Pompey’s Column and then to the Alexandria Library which was magnificent. After that to our hotel for the night the Sheraton. We had dinner at the restaurant in the hotel and to our room for rest.

Day 4: Back to Cairo (Giza)
Up at 7 am for an excellent breakfast and then in the minibus back to Cairo to join the tour group.

The trip to Cairo was 3 ½ hours however on both the up and back journeys there were large shopping/market areas halfway where we stopped for a rest break.
In Cairo we were dropped back at the Le Meridien Pyramids hotel and we booked into our Pyramid view room which we had booked ourselves on the internet and Denise was very happy with that special view room. (Bunnik’s were unable to book the room!!?)

Then we again walked to the pyramids and paid to go inside the compound. We saw the 3 Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx. It’s a great sight to see.

Then bought some water bottles down the street. We only drink bottled water which comes in 1.5 litre bottles, about 2 bottles per day. Even for teeth brushing.
At 7.30 pm we met the Bunnik tour group for a welcome dinner. It was at an Egyptian restaurant but to get there in the large bus we were in a traffic jam for one hour. Dinner was rather sparse and we were underwhelmed.

Day 5: Egyptian Museum and Pyramids
The weather here has been nice in Cairo about 28C in the day.
Today after breakfast, at 8.30 am we joined the group on the bus to the Egyptian Museum.
Lots of police with machine guns and rifles everywhere in the streets and at the tourist sights due to terrorist threats. Also metal detectors at all the sights and also at the pyramids.
On the roads also lots of speed bumps to slow down traffic even on highways where we traveled with armed police.

We first went to the Egyptian musuem which was huge and very ,very crowded with tour groups. Our guide was very good and got us through the crowds to see the important relics. Denise then had a tour of the Mummy room which was extra cost.

Then we got lunch on the bus which was a chicken yiros roll (which we had to pay about double normal price).
After that there was the highlight of Cairo when we drove to the top of a hill overlooking the 3 pyramids of Giza. Good photo op and great views, also lots of hawkers.
Then we drove down the hill to see the 3 pyramids individually. After that we walked to the Sphinx and we paid extra to see a solar boat of the pharaohs.
At the sphinx we had a nice cappuccino in a small restaurant right there which was great to do. Then back to hotel 4.30 pm for a rest and straight to sleep as we were very tired.

Day 6: Mosques and Red pyramid and Bent pyramid
Up at 7am and I have bad stomach upset, take some pills. The bus tour starts at 10am for sightseeing today. The bus stops at the chemist to get some special Egyptian pills for me and others which Denise has read about.
11 am get to Sultan Hassan Mosque which is huge and impressive, biggest in
Egypt. Then another mosque Ibn Tulun Mosque and a small Gayer-Anderson museum after that.

Denise and I are doing a special tour in the afternoon instead of the regular one. So we get off the bus and go off in a minivan at 1 pm with another guide go to the village of Dahshur where the 2 earliest pyramids are. We visit the Red pyramid and the Bent pyramid. It is extremely windy and dust is blowing in the air. Hardly any tourists there as it is off the beaten track.

We get back at 4 pm for a sleep in the pyramid view room. Then dinner at 7pm and after we walked down the street to a BP On The Run store for some bottles of water and a cappuccino. Then we watched TV and go to bed at 11 pm.

Day 7: Saqqara, Zoser, carpet making, Mosque and Train
We got up early and packed our bags as we leave the hotel today.
At 9.30 am we were in the bus on the road to Saqqara where there was a beautiful decorated tomb of Memeraka. Nearby was the pyramid of Tuti and one could climb into the pyramid.

I did it but Denise didn't as the opening was very small. The passage went down at 20 degrees and is 4 feet high, so you walked sideways down it into the dark for 50 metres. Then a chamber with normal ceiling to recover. Another level passage 4 feet high to finally get to the burial chamber of the king. A sarcophagus was in there but no photos were allowed.

After that the bus takes us to Zoser's mortuary complex and the Step pyramid. Quite impressive site.
At 12 noon we went to a Carpet making school. Lots of beautiful carpets to buy. These visits to shops were numerous and the guide encouraged us to buy. We later found out the prices are not always the best.

At 3pm we went to the Mosque of Mohammed Ali the great (not the boxer). Then to the great bazaar of Cairo but only got one hour to see it. Denise was not happy, so we rushed through to see what we could of the stalls.

After dinner at the hotel we were taken to the train station for the train to Aswan. The train left at 8.45 pm. The steward made our beds, one upper and one lower, Denise has the upper.
It is quite comfortable and my legs can fit in ok. At 9.45 pm we went to sleep in the rocking train.

Egypt Days 8-14

Day 8
We're on the train and wake at 6am. We woke a few times in the night but got a
good night’s sleep.
The steward puts the beds away and we watch Egypt go past the window. The
Nile, small villages, lots of donkeys, people in the fields, children, palm
trees.
At 8.25 am we get breakfast pack of some bread, 8.30 am stop at Luxor, 2nd biggest city for a small stop were some independent tourists get off.
Onwards again goes the train and we marvel at the fertile fields everywhere along the Nile , wheat, bananas, potatoes, cabbage, green feed for animals, sugar cane.
11.45 arrive Aswan station and unload the cases and cart then to the bus. Then off in the bus to see Aswan dam, huge dam and the Nasser lake is the largest in the world.
At 1 pm we board a ferry to the Island of Philae to see the Excellent Temple of
Philae.
At 2.30 pm we return and there is a bazaar at the ferry landing and lots of shops to buy our gallabaya (long dress) for the party on the forthcoming Nile cruise.
The merchants try to rob us and the guide was not much help! We paid about
$65 for 2 dresses and scarfes which isn't really much for us still it is Irksome to pay more than necessary.
At 3 pm drive to the unfinished Obelisk (unfinished because it started cracking when
being chiselled).
Then booked into Basma hotel and dinner at 6.30 pm on the outside terrace
overlooking the Nile. This was truly magnificent and a highlight.

Day 9
Up early at the hotel and leave at 8.15 am for a felucca ride on the Nile.
These are the boats with tall sails everywhere on the Nile. Very good fun
and comfortable. Of course the crew have necklaces for sale!! Denise buys a handful of
them.

9.30 am we board our cruise ship the Carmen, nice cabin and king bed, and settle in however 30 minutes later we race off again to join the convoy to Abu Simbal. All busses wait together for 11
am and an armed guard comes on board. Then all buses and cars are off together through the
desert, there are 3 armed checkpoints along the way. About 25 buses are with us and the trip
takes 3 hours. We were given a lunch box with bread and ham at the Carmen but not very good quality especially in the hot weather. We are afraid of getting sick.
The weather is hot 33C and the same for the next few days.

At 2pm arrive Abu Simbal and see Ramses II tomb, it is really excellent and
Impressive and a must-see. Next door is Nefertari's (his wife) temple which is great also.
Then at 4 pm leave Abu Simbal and arrive back at cruise ship in Aswan 7pm. Dinner
at 7.30 followed by Belly dancer (who was awful) and Whirling dervish dancer (who was excellent and unbelievable).

At 10 pm we go to bed after a long day having spent 6 hours on the bus.

Day 10
The weather has been warm lately about 33C. We’re staying on the Nile cruise ship Carmen in Aswan and we had the morning free so we wandered about in Aswan.
Went to the Nubian museum, 10 minutes away, very nice museum about the black Nubians living in southern Egypt. It also had a nice garden to walk in and explore.
Next to it was a Coptic church, they are Christians belonging to the Coptic Church. Very beautiful cathedral.
At 1pm the ship Carmen left to sail to Kom Ombo. We all sat on the deck in the
shade on lounge chairs. There is a small swimming pool but only a few people went swimming.

Arrived Kom Ombo at 3.45pm and were taken to see the Temple of Kom Ombo.
After that got dressed for dinner in our galabayah dresses. We had dinner in our dress up gear
but none of the German or Dutch on the boat dressed up.
After dinner was the party with lots of Egyptian music and entertainers and dancing
around. We had a great time.
During the dinner and party the boat actually sailed to Edfu and we overnighted moored at Edfu.

Day 11
Moored at Edfu we got up at 5.45 am, and at 6.45 the horse carriages came to
take us to the Temple of Edfu about 10 minutes away.
This is the best preserved temple in Egypt dedicated to the God Horus.
Back at 8.40 am for the boat to sail to Luxor. Again we are sitting on the
deck watching the Nile banks go past. Some very wonderful scenery.
However I was very tired and zonked out in the cabin for 2 hours. Either I
was tired from being sick or the cocktail of stomach drugs I had taken
over the past 3 days had affected me.
After lunch at 1pm I zonked out again until we arrived at 5 pm at Luxor the
2nd largest city in Egypt. We made friends with another couple during the tour and the four of us then walked to have a look around and took a horse carriage for 1 hour around the town.
Back for dinner (which doesn't start until 7.30pm each evening) then watch some TV until bed at 10 pm. Yes we have early starts and long days.

Day 12
We’re at Luxor and 38C today and a lot of sightseeing to do. Up at 4.10am!!
We are given lunch boxes to take with us with some rolls and a drink in
them.
Then catch a ferry across the Nile, on the ferry there is coffee and cake.
Then on 2 minibusses to the Hot air balloon terminal. There are about 6
balloons getting ready and about 5 already in the sky. It is just after dawn at 5.45 am when we take off. There are 30 people in the basket under the balloon and the pilot has 6 huge liquid gas tanks on board.
We rise to about 100 metres and sail over the Colossi of Memnon and lots of
villages and fields. From the air the fields and houses are wonderful to see.

We land safely and back to the wharf at the Nile and change to one large bus to see the Colossi
of Memnon close up. We arrive at 8am but they are not very impressive.
Then onto the Valley of the Kings where many burial chambers are. With our
ticket we can see 3 of them so the guide suggest 3 good ones. We do 2 of
them but Denise has her own idea about the third.
The valley is very well done up with pathways to walk on. The tombs are nice
to see, awesome decorations in them on the carved walls.

At 10 am we have finished doing the Valley of the Kings and the guide takes us to an alabaster shop, We get drinks and the owner and workers do a fantastic comic act together. I buy 2 wine goblets, We don't normally buy things at these shops as they are usually overpriced.

At 11 am we go to to the Temple of Hatshepsut which is really great beautiful
temple. This is a highlight. So by 12 noon we have done a full day's work!!

Then to our next hotel where our luggage has been taken from the Carmen. It is still in Luxor but at the St George hotel. We have discarded our lunch boxes since having been in the hot bus all morning we don't want to get sick.
We walk down the street for lunch at Dean's Bistro which was recommended on the Internet. It is very nice and we have fish and chips and chicken and chips.

At 3 pm back to hotel for a sleep as tonight we have booked for the Karnak temple Sound and light show. We are the only couple going to this.
The guide gets us a taxi and off we go at 7.15 pm(no dinner tonight)
There are about 800 people at the show and it is very good but a bit long.
We get back to the hotel at 9.30 pm and are absolutely tired out.

Day 13
Another early start up at 5.30 am. We pack our bags, and then breakfast by the hotel pool in warm weather at 6am. Wonderful!
6.45 am on the bus to go to Luxor Temple, another nice ruined temple. Also there is the Avenue of Sphinx, great sight.
Back on the bus an hour later to Karnak temple (where we went last night for the Sound and Light). Another ruin of a temple and spent about 35 minutes there.

Then to a Papyrus shop but didn't buy anything. Back to St George hotel to
refresh until check out at 12 noon. We have to buy Lunch in the hotel Bistro.
On the bus at 1.40 pm to join another armed convoy. At 2 pm the convoy of 10
big buses and 20 minibuses leaves with armed escorts. Across the desert for 4 1/2 hours no stops.

We arrive at the Red Sea resort of Steigenberger Golf Resort at El Gouna at 6.30pm and book in. 8 pm is dinner, with a magnificent 5-star buffet dinner.
This resort is self-contained and there are 6 other resort in this town near the Red Sea. It is
a luxury oasis in the desert with lots of Europeans sunning by the pool all day and having 3 big meals per day. This is living the good life!
Olympic pool and scuba diving and snorkeling, boating, golf nearby.
Tomorrow is a free day. We have earned this with the early starts we've had the last few days.

Day 14
We are at the Red Sea resort at El Gouna and we sleep in until 8am. There are options such as snorkeling, golf or a visit to Bedouins in the desert but we do nothing!!

Have an excellent breakfast 9am then do some internetting at last.
Took the shuttle bus downtown to look at shops. Then took the shuttle boat
back to the resort. At 1.45 pm rest and watch TV in our room. Then 5 pm have High tea (coffee and cakes) in the hotel lounge.

Dinner is at 8 pm again, great buffet (Greek night). A really relaxing day.

EGYPT- JORDAN Days 15 -22

Day 15
We're at the luxury resort on the Red Sea for the morning. However have to
have luggage ready at 10 am so not much time to enjoy it.
At airport at 11.15 am, take off 12.45 pm however we are in Business
ckass so that's good. Half the group had to fly out at 8.30 am and the others at 12.30 pm.
This caused quite a revolt among the group, since the early ones get a Cairo
City tour and we don't. So we argue and complain and the guide arranges a city tour in the afternoon on the last day in Cairo!!

We land in Cairo at 1.45 pm and get to the hotel after about 2 hours.
All have steel barriers across the driveway with armed Tourist police. The bus has to identify itself and then there are metal detectors at the doors of the hotel.
So we did the city tour 4 pm and it was very good. Cairo city centre is lively and we
had not seen it much as the first 3 days were at Giza 25 kms away.

At 8pm was the farewell dinner for Egypt as some of the group are not going to Jordan. It is on a cruise boat on the Nile, and the buffet food is ok. There is a belly dancer and
whirling dervish and band which is very good (all 3).

Day 16
Up at 5 am!! No rest for the wicked. Packing, breakfast, luggage outside the door.
Leave at 6.40am to the airport, busy traffic.
After checking in, I change Egyptian money for Jordanian money. To board the plane are taken by bus to the plane from the departure lounge. The plane is a Embraer 195 with huge leg room, better than any other plane I've been on. Take off 10.50 am and we land in Amman, Jordan at 12.45 pm.

Then we are taken on city tour first off. That’s great.
We go to to the Museum and Roman theater, excellent. Then to the hotel Amman West, a bit tired hotel but ok. Little shop across the road to buy water.   The hotel has free Internet, a first.
We have dinner and then to our room and bed. A long day!

Day 17
Up at 6.25 am and meet at 8 am for the bus taking us to Northern Jordan. The bus is not good, it’s a smaller bus than in Egypt, seat backs don't lock and no toilet. But since there are only 17 of us the big buses are used by groups of about 30 people.

At 10.30 am we arrive at Umm Qais to see the Roman ruins and temples. We then have morning coffee at a little restaurant. Great views across this historical site.
On the side of the site on top of the mountain we can see Israel and the Sea of Galilee and the River Jordan Valley. Also we see the Golan Heights now occupied by Israel.

From there we go to Jerash, where we have a kebab in pita bread. At 2 pm we see a Roman spectacular in the ancient Roman Hippodrome, very amateurish but fun. The commentator (in English) has great one liner jokes. So we see the Roman army march and fight (a bit like Dad’s army). Then gladiators fight to the death. Finally a chariot race of 3 scruffy chariots. A lot of fun but it was hot sitting in the sun, about 35C.

After that we walked about 2 km to see the Roman Theater, Temple of Artemis and the Cardo Maximus (main town road) still well preserved.
Then finally drive to Ajlun castle at 5.45 pm which closes at 6. We just make it and take good photos.
Then to dinner and bed. Another full day.

Day 18
This is the daddy of all days. We're going to overnight in the desert, so we pack our clothes etc to sleep under the stars. It can be cold at night in the mountains. The bus leaves at 8.15 am and the same crummy bus. I am not very happy in case I or someone gets stomach upset.

First visit Madaba where there is a Greek Orthodox church where a mosaic map
about 20 metres big has been found. We see the map and it shows the biblical
holy land as it was in about 300 AD. Amazing.

At 11.45 am visit Mt Nebo where Moses spent time and died. There is a memorial
for him and also Pope John Paul 2 who visited there. From Mt Nebo is great view to see River Jordan and the Dead Sea.

Then we rush of to the Dead Sea for lunch at a 5 star resort where people come to be cured in the mud and spas. After lunch we have time to float in the Dead sea, we all have our bathers and jump in and float. Funny sensation as you can't drown due to the salts in the water. After swimming you must take a shower to get rid of the sticky salts on your skin. However it doesn't quite come off.

Back on the bus for 5 hour trip to Wadi Rum at 3.10 pm. We have one stop along the way at 5 pm at a wayside cafe and bazaar. Then an emergency toilet stop when I don't feel well. On we go finally arriving at the campsite at 8.30 pm. Dinner is at 9 pm and there are 28 Dutch people there already waiting. This is a Bedouin camp and there are about 6 camps there with 2-man huts to sleep.

The chief cook has been busy for several hours and he gets a large roast lamb out of a hot pit while the visitors watch and then dinner is on. It is surprisingly good food since we are hungry after the long drive.   Then after dinner there is a campfire and Bedouin singing and people join in the dancing.

We the go to bed about 10,30 pm and make our beds on 2 single camp beds. We have brought our own pillow cases but not sheets but other people bring own sheets too. However the sheets supplied are clean and ok. I didn't sleep well as the bed was too short but Denise sleeps ok.

Day 19
This morning up at 7 am and pack and breakfast, and at 9.15 am we get a 4-wheel drive through the desert. Really magnificent views and rocks and scenery. This goes for 2 hours. Our car kept breaking down and the driver then puts the hood up and fiddles about and the car starts again. This happened about 4 times. One time his battery ran out and he jump started by rolling the car backwards down a hill. What fun.

After the 4 wheel drive the camels are waiting so we jump on the camels and into the desert again. Each camel is led by a small boy. It was not very hard to ride the camels but Denise and I are the first to turn back after 20 minutes. The others go on for 10 more minutes then return. So we rode for 40 mins which was enough.

Then lunch and into the bus for 2 hour ride to Petra. 4pm book into the hotel, really nice 4 star place on the edge of a huge cliff and valley. The ground floor is at the top and there are 11 floors below it down in to the mountain side. Great view from our room.

The first thing we did was shower, wash hair and I shaved. Washed the Dead sea and the desert dust from the camp right out. Put on fresh clothes for dinner. Denise did a shopping trip to town but I rested.   7 pm great buffet dinner and then to our room to rest.

Day 20
WOW, what a great time we had at Petra. Unbelievable both physically and mentally.
Up at 6.20 am and in the bus by 8 am and off to the Petra Holy city site. Petra is the Holy city of the Nabateans and later also occupied by Romans and Byzantines.

It is quite an effort to see Petra. First we walked a stony path for 800 metres, then we enter the Siq (gorge) which is about 10 metres wide at some points but only 2 metres at others especially near the end. The rock walls are about 50 metres high and are wonderfully coloured in reds, pinks , browns and yellows.

The Siq is 1200 metres long and there are several features which the guide points out. But the most beautiful sight is right at the end when through the narrow opening we can see the Treasury building a huge 45 metres high temple structure. This is a magnificent structure and in front of it is a large square with throngs of people and camels and donkeys.

Then after the Treasury building we continue on into a long street called The street of Facades which is huge mountains where temples have been carved in the rock face. Quite unbelievable. There are about 8 or so of these huge temple facades which we can see at first glance.
By now it is 1 pm and we have a quick lunch and set off up 800 steps to the Monastery. This is a hard climb and takes 50 minutes to the top of the mountain where there is another huge building similar to the Treasury.

We then left there at 2.25 pm to go back to the bus. It is quicker going down but back on the flat there is the Roman road with cobblestones which are hard to walk on. Then walk back through the Siq and the entrance path. Denise took a horse carriage back but I walked. The total distance we walked was about 11 km.

Arrived back at the bus at 4 pm and taken back to the hotel exhausted, dusty, sweaty
and sunburned. It was 28C today.

Day 21
Up at 6.30 am and in the bus at 8am. We are going to Little Petra this morning. It is about 30 minutes away. It was the ancient business centre for the trading caravans. Since Petra was a holy city, all trade was done at little Petra. We walk through another Siq but shorter than at Petra and there are numerous triclinium rooms in the rock walls where trade was done.
We then go back to (big) Petra and walk the 2 km to the Treasury again. It is hotter today about 31C.

We then take the 650 steps to the High Place of Sacrifice. At the top is a great view of the whole valley with the temple facades in the distance. There were trinkets seller even here and also a cool drink seller. The fridge didn't have power but had blocks of ice in to keep drinks cool!

In Petra there are lots of trinkets sellers along the way but not as aggressive as in Egypt. We then walked down the mountain along a back way and saw lots of temples along here too.
Then back to the bus and to the hotel. Denise then had a Turkish bath and massage before dinner. We are very, very exhausted tonight.

Day 22
We leave at 9 am for the bus trip back to Amman. We get dropped off in the city centre for some shopping. Then a taxi back at 4 pm to the hotel Amman West.

We then have an excellent farewell dinner at a local restaurant . Then at 10.30 pm we have a car booked to go the airport for our flight to Paris. This was a problem as Bunnik show us leaving in the morning!!   The local agency want us to pay for the trip to the airport. Which we do reluctantly.

So we get to the airport ok, then book our flight. No problem. But then more hiccup with
immigration. They won't let us out without paying for a Visa. When we arrived we got a
free Group visa but when the 2 of us leave we have to pay for the Visa because we are
not in a group . It cost 20 Dinars for the two of us.
So we argue and the immigration calls the Captain of police to arrest us. We then reluctantly pay up and leave the country.
We sit in the departure lounge until 12 midnight to board the plane.
We're soon on our way to France.
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Denise and Hugo - EGYPT 08

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2009-05-10

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APRIL 2008- EGYPT/JORDAN

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Journal

EGYPT Days 1 - 7

Egypt Days 8-14

EGYPT- JORDAN Days 15 -22

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