My Restoration Projects. - nissanman

Here is a little AJAX piston pump I found on ebay. The seller lives in a nearby country town.


It is listed as "condition unknown" so I'm taking a gamble that it is all there and that I can restore it.


Well, here it is at home. It's a heavy little sucker. The pulley rotates fine and the piston operates OK.


There is very little of the original paint left but enough for me to identify the colour, a Grey/Blue.


The I.D plate is in excellent condition, showing the TYPE and SERIES of the pump quite clearly.


Now to start gently dissembling the thing and renewing all the worn bits. The plan is to couple the pump to my Wisconsin Stationary Engine to give it some load. I might have to experiment with pulley sizes though.


Here you can see the huge big end of the connecting rod. The pump is called a self oiler, but the crankcase was bone dry!! I sincerely hope that it hasn't done any work in that condition!


Even though the pump was obviously kept out in the weather, the crankcase cover screws were easily removed. The sleeve bearings and crank shaft are in good condition. I'm guessing the oil drained out the crank bearings since the fill and drain plugs were firmly done up.


Well here is the bucket of bits after a thorough clean and coating of Rust-Eeter. I still have a few corroded bits to strip off the valve body and pump crankcase before I can prepare them for treatment.


The parts have been given a generous coating of Wattyl Heavy Duty Primer in preparation for the top coat. Haven't yet decided on the top coat colour, but Wattyl Killrust "Aqua" matches what was left of the original paint. Should look 100 years younger when done!


The pivot pin for the motor mount platform was firmly corroded in both the crankcase and the platform. After many happy hours of careful drilling, I managed to remove it. Now the platform and crankcase can be prepared for painting by coating them in Wattyl Rust-eeter.


Here is a nice little surprise! A search on the Interweb for Piston Pumps resulted in a contact in N.S.W. for service kits. After a few emails and a quick phone call, today I received a complete service kit for the Ajax 1 1/2.


All new gaskets, teflon seal for the stuffing box, 4 new valve seals and nylon washers, 2 new leather buckets and nylon washers and 4 stainless steel valve springs. Lanson Trading claim to be able to supply service kits for all Piston Pumps. I am very pleased and impressed! I have the valve body at a workshop atm. They are removing the seized pipe plugs and manufacturing 4 new plugs for the pump. The crankcase uses 2 and the valve body also has 2. All different sizes though!

SP310 Datsun Roadster.
Sales Brochure for the 1964, Datsun Fairlady Sports/Roadster.


This a photo of a 1965 Datsun Fairlady Sports car as purchased in 2002. It is the classic "before" shot.


A Cherry Red SP310, this is what I am aiming for.


Side view showing Kermit Green spray job.


Engine bay, minus head etc. What was missing from the engine, was stashed in the boot!


The head, valves, inlet manifold etc. all neatly stored in the boot.


Airbox plenum was full of debris but not rotted out.


Interior was all there but in a very sad condition.


More of the interior. It had been stored under cover too!


G15 power house on the way out. Note the 2 blades on the fan. Somewhere along the line the other 2 blades got lost.


Well, after 37 years there it is. Coated in grime and sludge!


Cleaning off the crud.


Inside of the oil filter mount. Engine suffered a failed head gasket and filled the sump with "milk coffee"


Oil filter. The top part had started to rust, the bottom part is covered in "milk coffee".


Oil sludge in the sump. All this has been there since 1980!!


Oil mixture. I'm reasonably sure the engine had a meltdown, water into oil, errrrrrk!


Four siezed pistons. Once the big ends were unbolted, a gentle tap on the bottom of the conrods did the trick.


Typical piston condition. Rings were a bear to get off the pistons.


Separating body shell from chassis.


Up, up and away!


Daylight between chassis and body.


Nearly done.


Had a few spare rims and they came in handy.


Sweeping up the debris after separation.


Chassis built like a Sherman tank!


Now it takes up TWICE the space.


Chassis is filthy but intact. Front sway bar mounts are fractured as per normal.


Condition of the front LHS under guard.


Inside of front LHS guard.


Front end stripped. No rustouts that I did not already know about. Note: I lied, see later pics.


Passenger side sill and "A" pillar. "A" Pillar is rotted thru at the front and side. Sill is totalled.


Drivers side "A" pillar is rotted thru on all three faces.


Close up of drivers side sill and "A" pillar. OH BOY!


Surgery lines are already drawn.


Many repairs were already done to a badly fractured firewall around the brake and clutch master cylinders.


I have ground off the mounds of weld to produce a fairly flat surface.


Both doors are in excellent condition - no rust just GREEN!.


Tiny rustout at extreme RHS edge of front screen flange.


The rotten section is too difficult to fill with filler rod so I'll just carve out this area and renew.


Screen area done, the small section of door opening flange lower down has been shaped and ready to weld in.


Similar rustout at extreme LHS edge of front screen flange.


Drivers seat before stripping.


Hopefully my upholsterer can re-build the seats following these pics.


Ohh Ahh puuuk!These seats reek!


Passenger seat , not as bad, but goes in the bin.


NOTE chassis is UPSIDE DOWN for this series of pics.


Showing fracture of the sway bar mount weld.


Original welds have been cut and mount is now "adjustable".


Chassis rail has been pounded back flat, mount is clamped into position for welding.


Tack welded and dimensions double checked.


Mounts are now in alignment.


Mount is now aligned with cardboard template of LHS mount.


Welding completed.


Inside view of welded mount.


New triangulated plate added to strengthen sway bar mount.


Inside of RHS mount showing extra plate welded to front bumper bracket mount and sway bar mount.


Seat frames and leaf springs have been grit blasted and primed in 2K primer.


Chassis after grit blasting and primed in 2K primer.


Chassis completely painted.

.
Rear leaf spring installation.


Home made polyurethane leaf buffers.


Re-assembled diff. housing.


Diff. housing from rear. Brakes are not yet assembled.


Very easy to re-assemble leaf spring once the main spring is fixed to the chassis.


Spring clamps have yet to be folded back around the leaves.


Close-up showing the 3mm polyurethane buffers between each leaf.


Springs have now been clamped using a combination of clamps and hammering.


Spring locator bolts were trashed so I made up some new ones.


The diff. assy. was wheeled forward to clear the front leaf spring mounts.


A few wood blocks were used to raise the springs against the axle housing.


The finished differential and axle installation. All pivots move smoothly and quietly.


The axle is within 2mm of being square to the reference points on the chassis.


Re-assembled RHS rear brake hardware. Slave cylinders have been rebuilt. with a stainless steel sleeve.


Front LHS brakes re-assembled.


Hub assembled with new wheel bearings, seals and fresh HTB grease.


Late model ball joint [from a 710 Datsun] mates up with the '65 steering arm.Taper is identical to the Fairlady.


Assembled tie rod.


The hood (bonnet) catch was completely dissembled for plating. Here is the catch with all the innards replaced.


After a little fiddling and the use of three hands (I wish!) the catch is now rivetted back together.


Both carb. Start Links were well worn at their pivot holes.


Detail of rear carb. elongated Start Link pivot hole.

Detail of front carb. elongated Start Link pivot hole.
Detail of front carb. elongated Start Link pivot hole. 2007-09-08


Detail of the ovaled out holes for carb. linkages.


Rods and pins are now a nice snug fit.


A nice warm day, a razor blade and the GREEN STUFF just peels off!


Once lifted it peels back like a self adhesive vinyl sheet.


At least it protected the metal underneath!


Front guard peeled of the green.


Doors ready for paint stripper.Virtually NO rust in the doors.


Boot lid has been treated with paintstripper, and is now ready for a scrub up with a 3M Clean and Strip wheel.


1/2 way there and my fingers are VERY SORE! Check out the paint litter on the paving under the bonnet.


Underside of bonnet has been scraped with a safety scraper and then scrubbed with a 3M scourer soaked in kerosine.


Applying paint stripper to the outside of the bonnet. Here is a days work if I ever saw one.


Inside of LHS door. All the green is gone and back to bare metal.


Outside of LHS door was covered in filler. There is a scrape down the centre of the door.


RHS door stripped. Not a single dent is evident and only a few minor rusty spots.


Outside of RHS door shows as new condition.


Looking very naked!


The inside of the boot and engine bay are yet to be stripped, as is the front valance panel.


The only panels that did not have any filler were the bonnet, boot and drivers side door.


Engine bay almost stripped of paint.


The tried and true method of removing recalcitrant fasteners from captive nuts or body threads.


Viola!! gentle turning and it all comes out!


These fasteners are at the bottom of the dash panel. Almost all of them would not budge so I ground off their heads...


...like this. The threaded sections were wound out from the backside of the panel so any damaged thread didn't jam


Making the door opening brace to keep the body from flexing when repairs are made. 2005-10-23


A straight bar from door latch mount to top hinge and a brace from door latch mount to lower door hinge.


The door opening is being clamped by the frame after the door has been checked for correct fit.


Final configuration. One top rail, a diagonal to the lower hinge mount and a vertical brace.


An identical brace was then made and fitted to the LHS door opening.


This is what is left of the front section of the RHS sill panel.


As long as the metal is sound I will leave it there: what is rotten will be cut out.


I will have to peel off the rotten sheets and re-build the sill from the inside out.


Rear of the same sill. I will need a few templates so that I can reproduce the correct shape of the panels.


This blue rectangle shows the panel inside the RHS rear wheel arch.


Time for a little surgery.The spot welds retaining the panel have been drilled..


.....and with a little help from a hammer & chisel, the panel is off the team.


This redundant panel will form a template for a replacement panel.


Here is the card template made from the removed wheel well section.


You can see a few holes in the under panels adjacent the chassis mount hole.


The chassis mount higher up on the floor pan looks to be quite OK.


Time to get serious, out comes the scalpel.


Lower section of sill has been surgically removed.The section around the jack hole can hopefully be re-used.


Jacking point is very sad.


It won't ever be used but I'll weld in a freshly made jacking point.


Not much to it, but in very poor condition.


Fancy trusting this piece of bent jam tin to support the car!!


New jacking brace next to the original. New is made out of 1.2mm sheet bent into a boxed panel with welded corners.


Support plate welded on and tube placed in position.


Original tube was rusty but quite OK to re-use. After welding in the tube, the whole shooting match can be welded in.


Fits in OK and is far more robust than need be probably.


The new frame was made with a little tolerance so I could centre the tube in the sill. cutout. 2006-08-27


The rear dogleg has been cut up a bit higher to allow access to the inner sill section.


The flat section at the edge of the body is a bit daggy at the lower edge.


Front of sill panel after removal of the rotten bit.Found a hole in the toeboard and floor panel as well.


Rear sill has been cut back to sound metal.


Ended up trimming the lower edge of the vertical sill panel by 25mm.


New patch for chassis mount area.


New patch from side. As a rule I always cut the patch a little larger than necessary, then eventually trim it to size.


Some plug welds, a 20mm hole for the chassis mount and a wee bit of trimming and VIOLA! patch looks good.


The base of the patch has been trimmed to give a reference for the new strip to be welded along the sill edge.


Wheel arch detail, nice and strong now.


The sill has been extended by ~30mm and will be trimmed more acurately later on.


Junction of floor and toeboard panels was quite rotten so more surgery. 2006-08-10


I should have known there would be more patching required than the little corner piece.


Right, we now have a decent flange on the toeboard for the floorboard patch to attach to.


Floorboard patch is cut to size, drilled for plug welds and clamped in position.


Leading edge of floor panel dips down slightly to mate up with the toeboard flange.


Plug welding completed, alignment with the floor pan is good to go.


Well, the parent panel was too weak to weld to so I have cut it back another 30mm.Now we have a decent repair.


All holes filled and final welds done. Strength in this area has increased markedly.


Toeboard is now complete, ready for the patch to be done at the leading edge of the sill panel.


Card template for leading edge patch clamped with the removed section.The tin worm was very active in this area.


Patch fully welded. Structurally, the car is improving very quickly. The 90deg. returns on various panels does this.


Base of the wheel arch has been patched.


This is about the best section of the old sill panel to make up a template from.


And here it is. This is the profile up to the first 90deg bend for the door opening.


The relationship between the sill top and the "A" pillar is somewhat rubbery due to the extent of the rust.


The patch for the sill top edge mates up nicely with the remaining parent metal.


I have found it easier to insert a series of patches instead of trying to fold up one piece.


Quite pain to get in there and cut out the rotten parts of the "A" pillar. Trying to leave the hinge plate intact.


Metal is cut back to sound stuff even though it looks very rusty.


Three out of four of the patches required for the"A" pillar.


Behind the clamp you can just see the rod welded from the bottom of the sill panel to the inner panel.


Fairly complicated patch ready for the sill at the base of the "A" pillar.


Sill moved a bit during welding but when I refit the "A" pillar patches I'll be able to realign the levels.


Cabin patch all set to go. Some of the welding on this will have to wait until I can climb in the cabin.


Got most of the welds done, what is left to do is accessable from the other side.


A couple of clamps in the right place and the new base to the "A" pillar is welded in.


Flange at base of sill patch will be a good foundation to weld the new outer sill to.


With the RH front guard fitted, the sill patch lines up pretty well. There will be gap between them.


Another section has been added to the new sill panel.


I won't be able to re-produce all the fancy curves that were in the original sill cap.


More progress on the sill. The profile worked out well, there will be about 3mm gap between the guard and the sill.


Looks a bit messy but it is there. Strength is excellent now and guard fits well over it.


RHS sill cap showing the two square tube tabs. These will be drilled and tapped to accept the front guard fasteners.


The very corner of the soft top front bow was missing, not rusted out but torn off. Don't know why, don't care,


So far so good. Such tiny pieces and sharp angles, just as well the Henrob is clever torch.


Inside piece in place. What a fiddly diddly repair!!


I used 3mm filler rod to give the sharp edges plenty of meat for shaping with a die grinder.


Finished product. Shape is good, strength is back, a blind man would be glad to see it!


A captive nut inside the front bow had escaped its clamp so a little keyhole surgery was needed to re-insert it.


Completed repair. This front bow is inside the soft top fabric so all my work will be hidden.


There are three sheet metal trim pieces that fix the roof fabric to the front bow of the soft top frame.


Piece has been shaped to fit the front bow and holes drilled to match those already in the bow.


Just for something different, this is the repair required at the trailing edge of the RHS rear wheel arch.


Patch cut to size and shaped to the body contours.


This section was peppered with holes around the factory drain hole.


Patch behind RHS rear wheel has been welded in place.


Patch welded and panel scrubbed back to bare metal.


As per normal the panel sank in when the patch was welded, however, at least it has new steel now.


Apex of wheel arch shows an area of damage, after removing a heap of filler.


The template for inside the sill matches the new panel.


Curved section tacked in place.


Final shape of new rear sill cap. I managed to build this shape with less pieces so I guess I'm learning something!


Curvature of the leading edge should mate up with new sill panel nicely.


Starting to get complicated. Here I have cut and shaped a patch to give the correct curvature of the wheel arch.


To assist in getting that flange in the right position, I re-installed the old arch plate temporarily.


Couldn't get it right until I tied the flange in the correct position with a length of welding rod.


All done, lines up nicely with surrounding panels.


Patch for wheel well has been cut to template.


Tried to fold the patch to size but it all got too hard. I cut and welded the shape instead.


All done. Happy with the result, all that remains is boring the hole for the chassis mount.


Now for the drivers side floor. I have scrubbed the genuine Nissan Goop from the underside of the floor.


Passenger side floor still has to be cleaned but you can see that its condition is far worse than the drivers side.


Centre of pic. shows how the previous owner had "massaged" the floor pan to allow the seat to slide back further.


Passenger side scrubbed up. The rustouts look bad enough from this side. Inside the cabin, the floor is trashed.


Here is a little surprise. The RHS chassis rail is full of dehydrated Datsun!!!!


I knew there were a few pinholes in this panel BUT.....


.....after cutting out the bottom sheet, it was far better off the team!!!


The firewall end of the channel was just packed with dried up crud. Certainly a design fault. Drain holes needed!


After deciding just how much of the drivers floor was trashed, surgery was performed.


Cabin view of the removed section from drivers side. You can see a strip on the floor at each end of the hole.


At long last my floor pan patch panels are finished. Section cut from floor was used as a pattern for a new pressing.


That should fit in OK, more welding to do!


I've traced the outline of the patch onto the floor panel. I'll cut this to allow the patch to fit with zero gap.


Fit and alignment is very good. I need to place a brace under the floor, so that I can press down on it firmly.


Well, here we go welding in the drivers side floor panel patch. A lot of little spot tacks to start of with.


So far so good, the panels are moving around a little but I can compensate for that.


All done. There is a wee bit of tidying up to do but, overall, the floor now looks a lot better and a lot stronger!


Cabin view of section removed from passenger side floor. At the far left is the rotten section of the toeboard.


Passenger side panel is quite a bit longer. The accuracy of the patches is excellent!


These two panels were custom made for only $50. They are the most complex shape of all the rustouts needing patching.


This patch is a lot bigger than the RHS one but it seems to be going so much better. Perhaps I am being more patient!


Easy does it with the welding. Not only to minimise the heat and therefore distortion but to save my back as well!


Patch all done. That blind man was happy to see it! Floor is really rigid again until I slice out the next big area.


Rustout at the right of the main patch has been replaced by a patch 50mm square.


Leading edge of the ridge was very thin so I cut and pasted a new section. This will mate up with the new floor patch.


Here are the blank patch panels for the left and right sills and the passenger side floor.


The repair to this flange is cute, it has curves in every direction! However, here it is being tacked in place.


Patch for the chassis rail had barely enough decent metal to weld to. Had to be very careful not to blow holes!


Chassis rail is all back together and turned up for front suspension clearance.


After a LOT of massaging, the battery tray patch is finally ready to go.


The RHS front has been scrubbed clean and a few more pinholes repaired.


Inside the engine bay, the base of the battery area now has a new patch cut to size.


Firewall was a real pain to repair. Dodgy welding from a previous attempt to fix long, long time ago!


Cabin side view shows totally inadequate pedal box bracing and a patch at the end of the RHS chassis rail.


Well, here we go re-assembling the head. Valve seats have been replaced with hardened units to handle PULP.


8 new valves, the two on the left are originals. 3rd combustion chamber from LHS has had a series of cracks welded up.


I have scrubbed up the block with hot soapy water and treated the bare casting with Metal Prep.


Very little masking required prior to spraying.


Block and head after painting. Should look real smart with bright new fasteners and clean alloy covers.


Engine is starting to look more presentable. Nice warm day so I'll leave in the sun to bake.


The under side of the rocker arm shaft shows significant scoring which will need to be repaired.


Rocker shaft has been hard chromed and linshed to 20mm diam. Rockers now fit snugly without lateral wobble.


Scoring is a bit hard to see but quite pronounced on the majority of the rocker arm bearing surfaces.


Crank and pistons have been installed. This engine features some great weight saving ideas like 3 main bearings!


Pistons are originals, block has been re-sleeved and bored to standard size.


Engine turns over fairly easily, rope seal at rear of crank introduces a wee bit of friction.


Nearly there. It is really nice to work with fresh, clean parts. Just as well I knew where I had put everything!


Original clutch has been re-built with all new components. Looks great and it had better work great too!


Cam installed and indexed to crank. New timing gears, tensioner and chain.


Quick dummy up of head and manifold to check clearances etc.


The pipes for supply and return of coolant from the water pump to heater tap are AWOL. I don't think I ever had any!


Manifold inlet pipe is done. A short rubber tube is needed to join the block outlet connector and the inlet pipe.


Here is a nice little win I had on EBAY, a genuine coolant pipe. I got so close to making one from 1/2" copper tube.


Always something to do! Had to replicate the two weeny brackets for the carburettor float bowl overflow tubes.


Valves have been re-installed, rocker shaft loosely fitted. Rocker arms are nice and snug on the re-plated shaft.


Outer valve springs are ex Nissan L16 OHC engine. They have been matched for spring compression values.


Front cover of the alternator shows a heap of wear at the top mounting tab.


Front view of the same cover. Remedy is to bore out the hole and insert a bush to take all the punishment.


Ear has been threaded to 3/8 UNF. A 5/16 UNF bush will made up to provide the thread for the pivot bolt.


Bolt is 5/16 UNC to match the pivot bolt thread.


Once plated, this little fella will be re-inserted into the ear and bonded in place with Locktite.


Top ear has been cut flat and drilled for the oversized bush. Then the rear of the bush will be cut flush with the ear.


New bush has been inserted. The area around the bush will be built up using some epoxy metal putty.


On the front side the bush needs to be trimmed to sit flush with the ear.


The gap evident adjacent the bush will also be filled with epoxy.


Bush has a thread cut onto it and grooves around the perimeter to provide key for the epoxy.


Pressed the bush in with a good dose of epoxy and re-made the ear.


The fill has been finished back flush with the rear of the new bush.


Front side looks good, the elongated bolt hole is no longer.


The third ear, the rear pivot bolt ear, is also damaged but not to a great extent. Bush shown will be used here.


Bush pressed into a 10.5mm hole, that should do the trick.


A small concession to modern technology. A crankscraper has been bonded to the block with a bead of silicon RTV sealant.


The scraper has cutouts for the dip stick, oil pump and oil drain holes. A very well made device, worth at least 20HP!


The profiling done to the scraper has prevented any ominous metal on metal scraping sounds when it finally fires up.


Oil pump priming device. Drive shaft from an L series engine fits into the oil pump drive slot like it was made for it!


Top side has been cut flat then a single driver slot cut into it.


There was no heater in the car when I received it. I got this one from the US. However, it is for a LHD car!


I need to make a mirror image of everything. The heater box will need the existing inlet blanked off and a new one made.


Heater housing and air flaps have been grit blasted to remove the corrosion from over 40 years of use.


Well, that is all there is to it. I need to shape the outer edges to match the original housing.


The two sides, duct entry and both brackets have been cut and shaped for the reversed blower housing.


I made up a wooden buck to assist in creating a 5mm flange around the two sides.


The side has been clamped to the buck and extends over the edge by approx. 5mm.


Eventually, after a variety of formers and much patience, the edges didn't turn out half bad.


Setting up the housing for assembly. It took ages for me to decide it was all lined up properly.


Sides are spaced apart by 78mm, the internal dimension of the original housing.


Getting there. Housing is clamped and brazed a little at a time to make sure it all fits nice and snug.


I don't normally use brazing but I figure it is fine for this job. Less heat and easier to finish up.


Well, the perimeter strip must have been square to the sides, it went all the way round and fitted perfectly!


A bit of time and effort on the belt sander and grinder and the brazed edges should look a lot more presentable.


Brackets have all been shaped. Housing is starting to look pretty good after careful polishing on a belt sander.


This is the rear of the housing.


Air duct flange turned out well. The brazing has been linished to a nicely rounded edge.


Finally got the tangential fan off the motor spindle. This will have to be reversed as well.


With the fan structure reversed, the motor will need to be wired up to rotate in the opposite direction to compensate.


Motor mount needed a new gasket so I cut one from some rubber sheet.


Trial fit of blower motor into the housing and it all went well.


Motor shaft sits dead centre in the air inlet duct, a good sign.


I used a hole saw that slid down snugly inside the cage. Now we have parts A & B to rearrange as required.


Cut an annulus from 0.8mm sheet to remount the hub onto the cage.


The hub will be brazed to the annulus which will then be brazed to the cage, but on the opposite end to original.


The annulus is just big enough to be brazed to the ends of the curved blades.


The drill bit was used to centre the two parts as best I could. 8 spots are brazed around the perimeter of the hub.


Conveniently, the drill bit had a dimple right in the centre of it allowing centering measurements to be made.


After running it up to speed on the motor to check balance and runout, the hub boss was brazed to strengthen the area.


Spot brazing on the hub annulus. Once it is all assembled, I'll add some balance weights if necessary.


New end cap for RHS air entry duct.


New duct for LHS air entry.


Brazing done and cleaned up.


It will look a lot better once it is painted black.That finishes the conversion of the heater box.


Here is the final product. Curiously, the dashboard had the two threaded mounts for the top mounting tabs only.


Apart from the seam running around the perimeter, they look very similar.


There they are, the converted box and housing looking like they were made for each other!


Now I need to make up a joining duct to go between the box and the housing.


Heater box has been scrubbed with a 3M scouring pad soaked in Metal Prep.


Nice to see a little paint go on....anything!


Heater core has been done in gloss and looks new as.


Well, there is the completed heater box. Some new closed cell, self adhesive foam strip, has been fitted.


New grommets for the pipes and a blank for the wiring.


A slight wrinkle with my heater conversion.This is the LHD duct to channel air from the control valve to the blower.


As a result of new technology, i.e. flip horizontal in a picture editor, this is what the RHD duct should look like.


Found some nice flexible black plastic duct which has an external diam. of 85mm.


This panel is the dress panel for the centre console.


I'll cut another annulus from sheet and braze it into the recess. That will bring the diam. back to a nice round 85m.


I have cut another 5mm from around the jagged shifter hole to make sure no sharp edges will remain.

ably buckl
Here is the new bit to go in. I cut it from 1.2mm sheet whereas the panel is only 0.8mm.


Clamped it all together, now we are ready to GENTLY braze it.


There it is. Brazing tends to flow all over the place once it is molten.


From the underside, you can see the old perimeter is well back from the new clean edge.


Checked a colour match by spraying a coat of red inside the aircleaner housing onto what was the most undisturbed area.


Housing needs a polish to bring up the gloss, but it turned out sweet.


I have installed the original aircleaner seals onto the case and lid with 3M contact adhesive.


With new hardware the assembled air cleaner looks so kool.


These are the aluminium trim pieces from the doors.


Second verse, very similar to the first!! Wheel arch on LHS rear shows a little less rot than RHS.


Sill in front of the LHS rear wheel arch will need the same treatment as RHS.


This shows up the extent of damage to the leading panel of the LHS floor pan area.


Leading edge of LHS sill.


So far as I can determine, this is the only area on the LHS chassis rail that needs patching.


Panel has been scraped of the Nissan goop and cleaned with a scotchbrite pad soaked in kerosine.


Integrity of all these bits is pretty good considering.


Most of the repairs will be to the sill and "A" pillar.


LHS floor panel has been removed. Wafer thin and full of with holes, splits and such.


Fred Flintstone wouldn't see anything amiss here but I sure can.


I saved all the good bits and removed all the rotten bits.


Thought I had better renew this area at the leading edge of the sill.


Now I can start re-building the toe board area. New flange is lined up with the existing and clamped in position.


Toe board patch is all set to go.


Both toe board patches are done. I saved the mouldings to retain factory appearance, but they were difficult to weld.


View from inside the cabin shows how the integrity of this area is now good as new.


For this floor pan patch, the plan is to fold up the left and right sides first since they do not have any pressings.


Here is the edge strip for the sill side, a simple 20 x 20mm 90 deg. angle.


Needed a bend in the middle to change the level of the floor panel. It sits on top of and also behind the chassis mount.


After determining the correct place for the chassis mount I drilled holes in the sill to allow plug welding to be done.


There are string of holes in the sill panel to allow plug welding of the edge strip.


I'll get to weld these after I do a bit more surgery on the external sill panel.


Well, it is now on a rotisserie! This will make life so much easier. Balance is excellent and access is great!


I can now get to all those areas that were a pain before.


I changed the long leg you see here for the short one and now I can rotate the body a full 360deg.


Further proof that the front swaybar mounts were used as towing points. The apron has damage where the rope was!


Patch for the LHS body rail. Not as badly damaged as the RHS though!


My custom made SP310 T shirt. At least that is finished!


I now have a matching set of SP310 steel rims. They are pretty sad looking but are useable according to my Tyre Fitter.


Here are the wheels after sand blasting and a coat or two of 2 pack primer. Starting to look a bit more presentable!


The valve stem holes and tyre bead seating area are in OK condition so the rims are useable.


Stock wheels now have a new coating of silver. A vast improvement over the original condition.


These are the factory wheel trims to fit the stock 13" wheels.


Sunday Best wheels, a set of 14 x 6" Watanabe alloy rims.


Went for a trial assembly of the front suspension. One side was fine, ball joint and spring seat lined up OK.


This is the bad one with the good one behind.


No wonder I couldn't get anything to fit together!


That is how it should fit. A little bit of wrestling with a breaker bar with the link firmly clamped in a vice!


Cast iron water pumps. On the left, au natural, on the right, grit blasted clean as!

Twin SU/Hitachi carburettors.
These have been fully restored to as new appearance and specification.


Twin carburettor assembly.


Mixture knobs have been preset to hopefully a good starting point for tuning. Float valves were replaced.


Engine assembly so far. Intake manifold with carbs, water pump, oil filter and alternator have been added


Need a new fan belt but so far so good.


Heater by-pass and associated pipes have been added to the inlet manifold. Hoses are still required to finish it off.


I have been busy re-assembling the chassis. All new fasteners have been used for safety.


Stock rims have brand new 175/75 x 13" radial tyres fitted. These will have a narrow whitewall applied later on.


All new suspension bushes and new ball joint boots. She will be back on her wheels soon!


These are the dress up wheels. Watanabe 14 x 6"


Tyres are 195/60R14. Front pair are Falken ZE329, rear pair are Bridgestone GridII


Wheels have the same offset as the factory steelies, so the extra width is towards the outside of the car.


Full right lock shows adequate clearance to the top suspension "A" arm.


Full left lock with a stock wheel. The 175/75 x 13" tyre gets a lot closer to the suspension at full lock.


Clearance to the chassis with the stock 13" rim fitted with 175/75 tyre.


Clearance to the chassis with the 195/60 x 14" tyre is the same as the stock tyre.


Interior rear vision mirror has been dissembled for plating.


Ball, ball plate, socket and spring plate.


Mirror parts had to be separated since some parts require their own special plating process.


Pedal pivot brackets showing damage to firewall. Brace will prevent flex at the base of the C channels.


View of the shelf above pivot brackets. The angled panel will be the location of the tension rod anchor plate.


Firewall crack along the base of the clutch pedal bracket.


The only sign of the pedal brace from the engine bay, is the hex head immediately above the steering column hole.


Upper & lower brackets will have 3 tension rods fitted.They will prevent any flex of the f/wall when pedals are pressed.


Passenger [LHS] floor panel. This is cut out to make way for a fresh replacement panel.


Here is the area to be replaced. Panel has been cut back to solid edges to enable welding in the new patch.


The original panel is on top of the replacement. New panel will be made oversize, then trimmed to fit the hole exactly.


The riser of each channel was formed using the sheet metal brake. First one side then the work reversed to do the other.


Then the work was clamped to a flat bar and the panel bent back on itself, by hand.


Reversed again and the remainder flattened to form the channel.


The completed channel.


Here the first pressing has been duplicated. Compared with the original panel, the shape is acceptable.


Closeup of the first channel. 1/4" drop x 1" flat x 1/4" rise. Shape is good and panel will be quite strong when done.


New channels compared with existing driver side floor panel. Forming seems to line up nicely with factory panel.


Comparison of new panel with old.


Edge view of completed channels.


The three channels match up nicely with the factory driver side floor panel.


With all channels finished, it is laid over the hole and checked for size.


Overall view of underfloor looks good, not that this will be visible very often.


Panel clamped in position so that the edges can be trimmed closer to the final shape.


The panel has been cut to size at the leading edge and at the channels for rolling the trans. tunnel curve.


Curvature is close, now the edge can be trimmed back to size for a butt weld along the join.


Panel is a little oversize as designed.


Panel has been trimmed all round and fits snugly. There are two holes required in the panel.


25mm hole for drain plug, 16mm hole for chassis mounting. Channel ends have been flattened to match the edge strip.


Panel is now as good as it gets. The chassis mount fits neatly over the channel and lines up with the hole.


I have drilled a row of holes along the leading edge which will be plug welded to the firewall flange. All set to go!


Tack welding almost done on three sides. Panel needed a bit of clamping here and there but generally shape was right on.


This edge is required some clamping to get it to line up decently with the trans. tunnel. Turned out quite OK.


Three sides welded, only the plug welds on the firewall edge left to do.


Once these curves were welded it all suddenly got a LOT stronger!


Plug welding the leading edge. The pliers grip the panels together and a fusion weld is applied to the 6mm hole.


Welds are placed 35mm apart to replicate the original spot welds. Floor repair is now largely completed.


View of repair from inside the cabin. I'll need to grind off a few rough edges but overall, it turned out great.


Well that just about fixes the Fred Flintstone Syndrome. With a coat of red primer, no-one will know the difference!


Dummy up of paper template for the sill cap. I will try and simplify the LHS cap compared to what I did for the RHS.


The LHS "A" pillar was rotten at the base as was the sill top that it was welded to.All cut back to sound metal now.


Removed ~20mm of the "A" pillar and a section of the sill top to get back to decent metal. Fairly easy to replace.


Sill top is under construction. This is the foundation for the new "A" pillar patch so it must be strong and accurate.


Patch is folded from the mounting flange out. Angles are carefully adjusted to match the parent panel.


So far so good. The next return needs to have a recess in it for the edge of the front LHS guard.


The edge of the front guard lines up with the rear edge of the "A" pillar. The last return will have to be sectioned....


....like this so that there is a step to accommodate the guard. The guard will be trial fit to check this area.


Sill top tacked in place. The recess for the trailing edge of the front guard has been welded in.


Most of this patch will be hidden from view once the "A" pillar is repaired. Still, it lines up perfectly!


Patch at the rear of the "A" pillar needed a joggle to allow it to fit over the sill flange. That makes 3 thicknesses.


Frontside done, leading edge ready to go.These 3 "A" pillar edges are simple to repair but very important strength wise.


Two edges repaired.


Last edge of the "A" pillar done. Welds require a little grinding to smooth but overall, finish is good.


Now I need to fill up this hole. The top surface is the only part of the original sill cap worth keeping!


Paper template for the LHS sill cap.


The plan is to make it from as few sections as possible.


Patch has been marked out using the template and cut oversize with the angle grinder.


The straight bends at the leading edge will be easy enough, the curved rear section makes life a bit tougher. We'll see!


Plug welds done on chassis mount. Time to do the remaining plug welds on the floor panel sill flange.


Chassis mount tacked in position. The floor pan and sill gain a lot of strength from this folded piece.


As I suspected, it got too hard to do the complex shape. So now we have 2 pieces, but that's OK.


Curvature is getting close to what I did to the RHS cap. 8-10mm gap between the sill patch and the guard.


Sill cap clamped in position. I'll leave the joining seam until the edges have been welded solid.


Weld to parent sill panel went well. Indicates that the thickness of the metal is adequate for the strength required.


Now we have the plug welds done and the seam for the two sections done. Neater than the RHS due to larger pieces used.


Time for another paper template. Piece has a compound curve but if I'm clever I will be able to bend it to suit.


Remaining cap patch cut to size. I need to test fit the guard again to verify shape and fit.


The trailing edge of this patch needs to be flared slightly to blend in to the centre sill section.


Front on view shows adequate clearance between the guard skin and the sill cap.


From the rear you can see the 10mm gap between the lower edge of the guard and the underside of the sill.


Here is the finished repair. Nice and solid and ready for the centre sill section to be added to it.


Template for sill curvature. Sill was so knocked about there was only one short section with the correct profile.


Now to cut the sill centre section out. This is the easy bit.


Panel was reasonable but very dented so it is off the team. Jack point is better than the RHS so I'll leave it in place.


Damage to outer skin, inner sill cap and lower edge. All this is to be cut out and replaced with fresh metal.


Sill back panel will be cut here....


....outer skin will be cut here....


....and it now looks like this.


The panels are now cut back to sound metal. Fairly simple repairs required here. Just rebuild it from the inside out!


Sill back patch cut to size and ready to go. It has a 2mm return on the vertical edge to weld to the chassis mount.


All done. Sill panel lower edge is in good condition and doesn't require replacing like I had to do on the RHS.


Rear cap under construction. Leading edge has a slight curve formed in to it.


The curve is to mate up with the next section. This is to gradually merge to the shape of the sill centre section.


End cap shape is done, ready to plug weld to the sill back panel.


The cap now needs a tapered section added to it to merge with the sill centre section....


....that looks like this. I will blend the caps to the sill profile and weld them together.


Patch for the leading edge of the LHS wheel well cut and drilled ready for welding in.


Wheel arch done. The panel now need a series of plug welds to the chassis mount to complete the job.


Remainder of the wheel arch patch cut to shape.


The flange required for the wheel arch cut to size.


The flange is necessary to attach the outer skin correctly with two plug welds.


New skin compared with the original. I keep the old parts until I have duplicated the shape in new metal.


This small section provides the outer skin a decent straight edge for me to weld to.


Skin patch and wheel arch detail done. The edge is built up with filler rod so I can profile the curve.


So there it is. The rear 1/4 outer skin can be welded to this small section and then ground smooth if necessary.


Time to start on repairing the sills with the new panels. First I'll cut the remaining rust out and have a nice straight edge to work with.


There is now a nice straight clean edge on the original panel to weld the replacement sill to.


This is the shape of the new rolled sill. Note how the curve is way off for the rear wheel arch section. This will have to be gently re-shaped by hand to match the existing curve.


After many happy hours of massaging, the sill is approaching the correct curvature to mate up with the rear wheel arch.


The leading edge of the sill will also require re-shaping to match the new sill cap.


Well there is the finished article. Fit is quite good really but it will certainly need to be clamped in position during welding. Certainly an improvement on the original.


After checking another Fairlady, thanks Nick, the problem I had with the leading edge of the sill not matching the trailing edge of the guard appears to be design. The guard does sit proud of the sill by 3 or 4 mm. So be it!


Visually, I am quite pleased how it turned out. After welding some areas will require a skim coat of filler but that is to be expected.

The car has been fitted with BRE type flares in preparation for racing I believe.
The car has been fitted with BRE type flares in preparation for racing I believe. 1999-07-02

The first pic. I received of the car. These first 3 pics. were taken in the States by the previous owner.
The first pic. I received of the car. These first 3 pics. were taken in the States by the previous owner. 1999-07-02

Interior showing everything has been stripped and sprayed with primer.Note the aluminium sheet door liner.
Interior showing everything has been stripped and sprayed with primer.Note the aluminium sheet door liner. 1999-07-02

Well, it is now in Oz and looks a little better on wheels.Rear flares are huge and will need a little work to tidy up.
Well, it is now in Oz and looks a little better on wheels.Rear flares are huge and will need a little work to tidy up. 2

Engine bay.There is no shortage of RHD conversion parts in Oz! Front guards are fibreglass.
Engine bay.There is no shortage of RHD conversion parts in Oz! Front guards are fibreglass. 2002-06-25

Back panel is a bit rough but we fix, we fix.
Back panel is a bit rough but we fix, we fix. 2002-06-16

There are a few details missing but it is a Rolling Shell (or is that Hell!)
There are a few details missing but it is a Rolling Shell (or is that Hell!) 2007-09-08

All the window glass is there.
All the window glass is there. 2007-09-08

Plenty of room there for a VG30!
Plenty of room there for a VG30! 2007-09-08

Front valance is a bit battered but it is 31 years old.
Front valance is a bit battered but it is 31 years old. 2007-09-08

Some friends could not resist fitting some big boots to fill out those flares!
Some friends could not resist fitting some big boots to fill out those flares! 2007-09-08

Interior showing all the options you get with a rolling shell.ZIP!!
Interior showing all the options you get with a rolling shell.ZIP!! 2002-06-25

Inside the boot you can see the spare wheel well has been filled with flat panel. It will probably stay that way, but a
Inside the boot you can see the spare wheel well has been filled with flat panel. It will probably stay that way, but a

Well, the Grey Ghost is finally home. A long 800Km round trip in hot, windy weather!My friend Wayne has provided just ab
Well, the Grey Ghost is finally home. A long 800Km round trip in hot, windy weather!My friend Wayne has provided just ab

All the loose bits were tucked inside the cabin and tied down.The car was only just moveable with blocks of wood in plac
All the loose bits were tucked inside the cabin and tied down.The car was only just moveable with blocks of wood in plac

Well, it has taken some time and a few $$$, but here is the "new" engine destined for the 2 door, a VG30 (norm
Well, it has taken some time and a few $$$, but here is the "new" engine destined for the 2 door, a VG30 (norm

The plan is to re-condition the engine and run it on Autogas. Ultimately I intend to fit twin turbos. The high compressi
The plan is to re-condition the engine and run it on Autogas. Ultimately I intend to fit twin turbos. The high compressi

As we remove items there is no real bad news. Some cooling system corrosion but nothing major.
As we remove items there is no real bad news. Some cooling system corrosion but nothing major. 2003-06-21

A few broken exhaust studs but that was to be expected. The oil drained was as black as pitch but not contaminated with
A few broken exhaust studs but that was to be expected. The oil drained was as black as pitch but not contaminated with

Bottom end is reasonably clean, complete bearing girdle is shown.
Bottom end is reasonably clean, complete bearing girdle is shown. 2007-09-08

I have never worked on the VG series before so it will be an interesting exercise to strip the engine and re-build it. U
I have never worked on the VG series before so it will be an interesting exercise to strip the engine and re-build it. U

LHS head shows much sadness in #2, there has been some water in here!
LHS head shows much sadness in #2, there has been some water in here! 2003-06-26

LHS of block shows erky stuff in #2.Cylinders #4 and #6 look OK.#2 was the only piston preventing the crank from rotatin
LHS of block shows erky stuff in #2.Cylinders #4 and #6 look OK.#2 was the only piston preventing the crank from rotatin

RHS block shows fairly normal condition for #1, #3 and #5. The liquid on top of the pistons is CRC-556 which was applied
RHS block shows fairly normal condition for #1, #3 and #5. The liquid on top of the pistons is CRC-556 which was applied

Head shot of RHS (#1,#3 and #5) is also fairly normal.
Head shot of RHS (#1,#3 and #5) is also fairly normal. 2003-06-26

I have grit blasted the upper and lower inlet manifolds and plugged all surplus holes with socket head brass 1/4 BSP plu
4 BSP plu 2003-07-22

You can see the blanking plate fitted to the side of the manifold to replace the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.
You can see the blanking plate fitted to the side of the manifold to replace the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. 2003-07-2

RHS shows blanking plates fitted to replace the Air Regulator and the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) fitting.
RHS shows blanking plates fitted to replace the Air Regulator and the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) fitting. 2003-07-2

The fuel injector holes have been tapped and filled with 12mm socket head threaded plugs.
The fuel injector holes have been tapped and filled with 12mm socket head threaded plugs. 2003-07-22

This is the Autogas mixer which will be adapted to the throttle body flange of the inlet manifold.
This is the Autogas mixer which will be adapted to the throttle body flange of the inlet manifold. 2007-09-08

Because I am going to use a 3L V6 I am trying to reproduce a braking system equivalent to the 300ZX (Z31) rear vented di
Because I am going to use a 3L V6 I am trying to reproduce a braking system equivalent to the 300ZX (Z31) rear vented di

After a lot of research I came up with this combination. It is a 280mm x 20mm vented rotor with a 38mm piston calliper,
After a lot of research I came up with this combination. It is a 280mm x 20mm vented rotor with a 38mm piston calliper,

Backplates and brake cable entry required for the conversion.
Backplates and brake cable entry required for the conversion. 2005-02-02

Hand brake view.
Hand brake view. 2005-02-02

Shoe clears wheel flange nicely thank you.
Shoe clears wheel flange nicely thank you. 2005-02-02

Hand brake cable entry overlayed to brake backplate.
Hand brake cable entry overlayed to brake backplate. 2005-02-02

Prototype assembly.
Prototype assembly. 2005-02-02

Prototype assembly.
Prototype assembly. 2005-02-02

Prototype assembly.
Prototype assembly. 2005-02-02

Head on view of conversion.
Head on view of conversion. 2005-02-02

View showing clearance of shoes to 510 axle flange.
View showing clearance of shoes to 510 axle flange. 2005-02-02

Here is the coil over suspension system which will be fitted to the car.The advantage of such a system is that ride heig
Here is the coil over suspension system which will be fitted to the car.The advantage of such a system is that ride heig

Trial fit of the VG30 SOHC with supercharger. It is going to a little tight to fit all this into the real estate availab
Trial fit of the VG30 SOHC with supercharger. It is going to a little tight to fit all this into the real estate availab

Engine clears the firewall by about 30mm, the supercharger by about 15mm.Where the drive pulley is, is where it has to b
Engine clears the firewall by about 30mm, the supercharger by about 15mm.Where the drive pulley is, is where it has to b

This is a stock VG30 distributor showing the optical pickup and perforated signal plate.
This is a stock VG30 distributor showing the optical pickup and perforated signal plate. 2006-07-28

The optical sytem was completely removed from the distributor body.
The optical sytem was completely removed from the distributor body. 2006-07-28

The replacement system is the Hall Effect sensor mounted on a custom base plate.These sensors a remarkably robust.I have
The replacement system is the Hall Effect sensor mounted on a custom base plate.These sensors a remarkably robust.I have

The flying leads from the sensor are terminated on a 3 pin block to enable the external loom to be connected.
The flying leads from the sensor are terminated on a 3 pin block to enable the external loom to be connected. 2006-07-28

The new system is mounted to the distributor using the original optical mounts.
The new system is mounted to the distributor using the original optical mounts. 2006-07-28

The lower rotor hub is refitted to the distributor shaft. This hub locks into the upper hub to orient the rotor correctl
The lower rotor hub is refitted to the distributor shaft. This hub locks into the upper hub to orient the rotor correctl

A 6 cylinder chopper wheel has been press fitted to the rotor hub.The leading edge of the vanes on the wheel trigger the
A 6 cylinder chopper wheel has been press fitted to the rotor hub.The leading edge of the vanes on the wheel trigger the

The chopper wheel is an interference fit onto the rotor hub and is locked in position with a 3mm roll pin.
The chopper wheel is an interference fit onto the rotor hub and is locked in position with a 3mm roll pin. 2006-07-28

Chopper wheel and upper hub re-fitted to shaft.
Chopper wheel and upper hub re-fitted to shaft. 2006-07-28

Distributor rotor re-fitted. Rotor height is same as that in the optical system.Its' orientation to the distributor
Distributor rotor re-fitted. Rotor height is same as that in the optical system.Its' orientation to the distributor

Bottom view shows the loom exiting from the factory harness hole. This exit point will be made vibration and weather pro
Bottom view shows the loom exiting from the factory harness hole. This exit point will be made vibration and weather pro

From the Hall Effect crank angle sensor, the RPM signal is input to a Delta Digital Ignition computer.This clever little
From the Hall Effect crank angle sensor, the RPM signal is input to a Delta Digital Ignition computer.This clever little

..... a Jacobs Pro Street Energy Pak. This system, reputedly the best invention since plastic bags to put sliced bread i
..... a Jacobs Pro Street Energy Pak. This system, reputedly the best invention since plastic bags to put sliced bread i

This is the replacement engine, an RB25DE with V.V.T. (Variable Valve Timing on the inlet cam).Originally fitted to an R
This is the replacement engine, an RB25DE with V.V.T. (Variable Valve Timing on the inlet cam).Originally fitted to an R

Spare wheel well is a welded in replacement and underside has been etch primed. I had done a lot of body repair prior to
Spare wheel well is a welded in replacement and underside has been etch primed. I had done a lot of body repair prior to

I tried to MIG weld but I think I'll stick with oxy.
I tried to MIG weld but I think I'll stick with oxy. 2007-09-08

Primered patch panel at the rear dogleg.
Primered patch panel at the rear dogleg. 2007-09-08

RHS sill repair nearly complete.
RHS sill repair nearly complete. 2007-09-08

RHS sill and door aperture primered.
RHS sill and door aperture primered. 2007-09-08

Painting, painting, painting!
Painting, painting, painting! 2007-09-08

Rotten bit cut out immediately below the battery tray.
Rotten bit cut out immediately below the battery tray. 2007-09-08

Cut out from inside the cabin.
Cut out from inside the cabin. 2007-09-08

Showing various patches done to LHS wheel arch etc.
Showing various patches done to LHS wheel arch etc. 2007-09-08

Close up of the patch panel welded in at the junction of the firewall and wheel arch below the battery tray.
Close up of the patch panel welded in at the junction of the firewall and wheel arch below the battery tray. 2007-09-08

Primer applied to inner wheel arch after repairs.
Primer applied to inner wheel arch after repairs. 2007-09-08

Retouching bad bits.
Retouching bad bits. 2007-09-08

Feels good to see some top coat on FINALLY!
Feels good to see some top coat on FINALLY! 2007-09-08

Rear section virtually finished. Wheel arches still to do.
Rear section virtually finished. Wheel arches still to do. 2007-09-08

Doesn't that look nice and clean?
Doesn't that look nice and clean? 2007-09-08

Another pic of the floor pan and engine room.
Another pic of the floor pan and engine room. 2007-09-08

Another view of the engine room courtesy of my rotisserie.
Another view of the engine room courtesy of my rotisserie. 2007-09-08

Finally finished the top coat in the engine bay.
Finally finished the top coat in the engine bay. 2007-09-08

Patch panel welded into the rear of the LHS sill.
Patch panel welded into the rear of the LHS sill. 2007-09-08

Filled the 3 holes around the cabin vent and also the antennae hole.
Filled the 3 holes around the cabin vent and also the antennae hole. 2007-09-08

Interior has been sprayed with semi-gloss black.
Interior has been sprayed with semi-gloss black. 2007-09-08

LHS sill complete
LHS sill complete 2007-09-08

White isn't it?
White isn't it? 2007-09-08

Oil cooler from LHS.
Oil cooler from LHS. 2002-11-04

Rear view of rubber mounted 3 row core, double pass, cross-flow radiator.
Rear view of rubber mounted 3 row core, double pass, cross-flow radiator. 2002-11-04

RHS view of radiator and Mazda RX7 oil cooler rubber mounted in front.
RHS view of radiator and Mazda RX7 oil cooler rubber mounted in front. 2002-11-04

Inside of RHS rear wheel arch showing rusted area cut out.
Inside of RHS rear wheel arch showing rusted area cut out. 2002-11-06

Same wheel arch from outside. Many patches required to repair.
Same wheel arch from outside. Many patches required to repair. 2002-11-06

Rustout at bottom rear corner of LHS door. This is a replacement door from a 260Z 2 seater, the original door skins were
Rustout at bottom rear corner of LHS door. This is a replacement door from a 260Z 2 seater, the original door skins were

Skin flange has been folded back so I can cut out the rotted piece and insert a new patch.
Skin flange has been folded back so I can cut out the rotted piece and insert a new patch. 2003-04-11

Door shell has been cut back to sound metal
Door shell has been cut back to sound metal 2003-04-11

Small hole to be repaired in door skin.
Small hole to be repaired in door skin. 2003-04-11

Hole has been welded, view from door skin side.
Hole has been welded, view from door skin side. 2003-04-11

View of repaired hole from other side.
View of repaired hole from other side. 2003-04-11

Weld has been ground flat and smooth, area is now ready for patching.
Weld has been ground flat and smooth, area is now ready for patching. 2003-04-11

Being a difficult shape and compound curve, I decided to insert several small patches instead of trying to form it in on
Being a difficult shape and compound curve, I decided to insert several small patches instead of trying to form it in on

First section finished, second one cut and shaped.
First section finished, second one cut and shaped. 2003-04-11

Gap at flange will be welded once the patch has been formed to sit snug against the door skin.
Gap at flange will be welded once the patch has been formed to sit snug against the door skin. 2003-04-11

Third section cut and shaped.
Third section cut and shaped. 2003-04-11

Completed patch ground smooth and brazed to the door skin.
Completed patch ground smooth and brazed to the door skin. 2003-04-12

That looks a lot better! There were only a few more minor cracks and such that were welded up and the door is now struct
That looks a lot better! There were only a few more minor cracks and such that were welded up and the door is now struct

Front brake conversion. Rotors are 296mm x 28mm vented from a VT V8 Commodore.
Front brake conversion. Rotors are 296mm x 28mm vented from a VT V8 Commodore. 2003-03-24

Hub has been converted to "disc over" arrangement. Rotor has also been drilled to the 114.3mm PCD. Wheel stu
Hub has been converted to "disc over" arrangement. Rotor has also been drilled to the 114.3mm PCD. Wheel stu

The hubs have been turned down in outside diameter slightly to allow them to fit precisely inside the disc rotor. This p
The hubs have been turned down in outside diameter slightly to allow them to fit precisely inside the disc rotor. This p

Axially, the callipers are positioned perfectly when clamped to the existing strut calliper mounts. However, radially, t
Axially, the callipers are positioned perfectly when clamped to the existing strut calliper mounts. However, radially, t

Callipers are also from the VT V8 Commodore. They are alloy with twin 42mm pistons. some machining can be seen around th
Callipers are also from the VT V8 Commodore. They are alloy with twin 42mm pistons. some machining can be seen around th

Rear disc brake conversion using R31 Skyline callipers and rotors with custom made calliper mounts.Parts "A" a
Rear disc brake conversion using R31 Skyline callipers and rotors with custom made calliper mounts.Parts "A" a

These are the two custom made brackets used to mount the R31 calliper to the 240Z (260/280) rear strut tube. The large b
280) rear strut tube. The large b 2007-09-08

Flip side of bracketry. Be carefull if you get these bits powder coated, they grow in dimension and can cause alignment
Flip side of bracketry. Be carefull if you get these bits powder coated, they grow in dimension and can cause alignment

Rear strut showing the major of the two brackets bolted to existing holes.There are four threaded holes for the original
Rear strut showing the major of the two brackets bolted to existing holes.There are four threaded holes for the original

View of the brackets mounted to a virgin strut.It is possible to fit all this without dissembling the stub axle by using
View of the brackets mounted to a virgin strut.It is possible to fit all this without dissembling the stub axle by using

As usual, everthing is grossly over engineered!That is just the type of guy I am.
As usual, everthing is grossly over engineered!That is just the type of guy I am. 2003-06-07

Side on view shows the orientation of the calliper. It lines up with the mounting plane of the larger bracket.
Side on view shows the orientation of the calliper. It lines up with the mounting plane of the larger bracket. 2007-09-0

Inboard shot of the whole shooting match. The bleed nipple is at the topmost point of the calliper, an obvious advantage
Inboard shot of the whole shooting match. The bleed nipple is at the topmost point of the calliper, an obvious advantage

Outboard shot. There are LEFT hand and RIGHT hand callipers.This allows the handbrake mechanism to operate properly.
Outboard shot. There are LEFT hand and RIGHT hand callipers.This allows the handbrake mechanism to operate properly. 200

When the calliper is mounted to the strut, the bleed nipple is uppermost.
When the calliper is mounted to the strut, the bleed nipple is uppermost. 2007-09-08

The original two threaded holes in the top of the hub are utilised for a custom made handbrake cable anchor.
The original two threaded holes in the top of the hub are utilised for a custom made handbrake cable anchor. 2007-09-08

This is a prototype conversion I did on my sons' '73 240Z, showing the orientation of the calliper.It has to b
This is a prototype conversion I did on my sons' '73 240Z, showing the orientation of the calliper.It has to b

Drawing of the brackets. I think I have a CAD file of this somewhere, but being very simple in design, most home mechani
Drawing of the brackets. I think I have a CAD file of this somewhere, but being very simple in design, most home mechani

Home made rotisserie details.Triangulated frame is quite stable regardless of body rotation.
Home made rotisserie details.Triangulated frame is quite stable regardless of body rotation. 2007-09-08

Shows attachment to the rear of the 1973 240Z body.
Shows attachment to the rear of the 1973 240Z body. 2007-09-08

Shows attachment to the front of the 1973 240Z body.
Shows attachment to the front of the 1973 240Z body. 2007-09-08

The angle can be locked at even increments to allow the senior operator to negotiate the body work.
The angle can be locked at even increments to allow the senior operator to negotiate the body work. 2007-09-08

This pic shows more detail of the custom made rotisserie which , quite simply, makes it all easy peasy!
This pic shows more detail of the custom made rotisserie which , quite simply, makes it all easy peasy! 2007-09-08

Spindle pin puller. A prototype, it did work and I got about 4 pins out before it broke at the welds. One day I'll
Spindle pin puller. A prototype, it did work and I got about 4 pins out before it broke at the welds. One day I'll

280Z carbon cannister location.
280Z carbon cannister location. 2007-09-08

Basic circuit of auxilliary power feed from ignition circuit.
Basic circuit of auxilliary power feed from ignition circuit. 2007-09-08

Front main seal detail on an L series 6 cylinder.
Front main seal detail on an L series 6 cylinder. 2007-09-08

Timing cover detail of L series engine.
Timing cover detail of L series engine. 2007-07-24

Power feed revised
Power feed revised 2007-09-08

240Z rear panel location.
240Z rear panel location. 2007-09-08

240z rear panel dimensions.
240z rear panel dimensions. 2007-09-08

Retouching bad bits.
Retouching bad bits. 2007-09-08

155S
155S.jpg 2004-12-07

R33 car 003
R33 car 003.jpg 2005-05-10

b120 028a
b120 028a.jpg 2007-02-25

The 2007 Roadster Nationals were organised by the Datsun Sports Owners Association.


Cars were assembled in 5 adjoining areas of the Saltrams Winery car park.





More cars lined up with their proud owners not far away.


Two cars had traveled from Brisbane to Adelaide anti-clockwise. That was a very long trip!


Overall, the quality was very good considering the age of the cars and distances traveled.


All colours were represented, some more factory than others.


1964 SP310.Still had the third seat fitted, how cute!Don't know anyone who would fit into it though.


Excellent example with nice alloys.


Delightful SR311. I would dearly love to find an unwanted, unloved SR311!


I wonder how it would be to drive one of these on a daily basis?One car present was bought new by a lady driver in 1966.


Mint interior with nice white paintwork.


Very original SR311, excellent paint.


A youngster in the group, 1969 SR311.


The cheapest custom number plate money can buy.The authorities have re-issued Rxx-xxx and Sxx-xxx plates for purchase.


Methinks this little Lady may see some track days.


Interesting car this one.1964 SP310 with an R16 engine, H20 crank, Mazda pistons making it a 2L engine!!


It was great to see a car very close to what I hope to have, even down to the bright red colour.


Cars forming up to leave the winery in convoy.


Sunday lunch was hosted by John on his property at Swan Reach.


View of the Homestead from the eastern side of the Murray River.The building is centre of the pic.


Engine bay of SRL311 model. 2000cc OHC engine with twin 44mm side draught Mikuni /Solex carburettors.

AUTOart 002.jpg
AUTOart 002.jpg 2010-06-11

AUTOart 004.jpg
AUTOart 004.jpg 2010-06-11

AUTOart 005.jpg
AUTOart 005.jpg 2010-06-11

AUTOart 006.jpg
AUTOart 006.jpg 2010-06-11

AUTOart 007.jpg
AUTOart 007.jpg 2010-06-11

AUTOart 008.jpg
AUTOart 008.jpg 2010-06-11

AUTOart 009.jpg
AUTOart 009.jpg 2010-06-11

AUTOart 010.jpg
AUTOart 010.jpg 2010-06-11

AUTOart 011.jpg
AUTOart 011.jpg 2010-06-11

AUTOart 012.jpg
AUTOart 012.jpg 2010-06-11

AUTOart 013.jpg
AUTOart 013.jpg 2010-06-11

AUTOart 014.jpg
AUTOart 014.jpg 2010-06-11

AUTOart 015.jpg
AUTOart 015.jpg 2010-06-11

run_logo.jpg
run_logo.jpg 2007-10-04

classic_logo.jpg
classic_logo.jpg 2007-10-04


SP311


SP311


SP311


SP311


Mint '74 Z


Mint '74 Z


Mint '74 Z


Interstate Z


Interstate Z


Restored Diamond T prime mover.


Line of Prince Skylines.


MINT P510


MINT P510


MINT P510


Neat 510

card 1
card 1.jpg 2008-07-07

Card 2
Card 2.jpg 2008-07-07

Card 3
Card 3.jpg 2008-07-07

Card 4
Card 4.jpg 2008-07-07

Card 5
Card 5.jpg 2008-07-07

Card 6
Card 6.jpg 2008-07-07

Card 7
Card 7.jpg 2008-07-07

Card 8
Card 8.jpg 2008-07-07

Mazda P/N 3953-12-500A. This what the Mazda part looks like when out of the box. We need to convert it to a piston type plunger without the slipper pad and shorten the pre-tension spring to allow it to do the job.


A view of the Mazda tensioner showing the integral pawl which allows the piston to extend but not retract. This feature provides constant tension on the upper chain thus preventing chain rattle on start up when engine oil pressure is low.


Rear view of the Mazda part. You can also see the ratchet teeth on the lower edge of the piston. These engage the spring loaded pawl to provide one way movement.


You can see the stock parts better here. The spring length is trimmed to equal the spring used in the original Nissan tensioner. The release lever can be seen at the lower right of the block. When installing or removing the tensioner, the piston is pushed all the way into the block, the pawl is moved to lock the piston and a pin is inserted through the pawl hole into the block.
That will lock the piston fully retracted until you pull the pin.


The twin cam drive of the FJ20 uses two chains, two oil pressure fed tensioners and three guides. Chain Tensioner A is located on the upper or cam drive chain. The chain rattle occurs because the piston cannot control the chain slack at start up due to low oil pressure.


Here is the location of the Chain Tensioner A which, without the Mazda ratchet type tensioner, allows chain rattle on engine start up.


The construction of the original tensioner. You can see the similarities to the Mazda unit.


The first step is to remove the redundant neoprene slipper block. We do this by drilling a hole through the slipper block to the piston end.


Now use a punch of appropriate diameter to gently force the piston from the block. I sat the block on top of an open vice and just tapped the piston off. It is an interference fit but parts easily.


Here the block is free of the piston. You will need to clean the end of the piston to remove any remnants of neoprene. I used a disc sander to polish up the piston end.


Now we can trim the pre-tension spring to the new length of 52mm. The casting of the body can have excessive metal on the bottom edge which prevents the tensioner body from sitting flat on the face of the head. There is a maximum of 4mm of the block from the centre of the lower mounting hole to the bottom edge. If the block dimension exceeds this it will foul on a head casting. It is a simple process to grind a groove in the block to meet the dimension and clear the head casting. It is essential to do a trial fit to ensure the block does indeed sit flat and true on the mounting pad on the face of the head.


Here the Nissan gasket is overlaid onto the Mazda tensioner. The thing to watch is that the oil feed to the tensioner is not covered by any part of the gasket and also that the oil hole does lie inside the Nissan gasket cutout. Once that is determined, the Nissan gasket can be disposed of and the Mazda gasket can be used or a new gasket can be cut from stock.


I have made an aluminium template to assist in checking the Mazda part for compatibility to the typical FJ20 head. Not all Mazda tensioner bodies are equal. You can see that Block #1 has had more of the bottom edge ground off for clearance than Block #2. Also the oil hole has been enlarged but as previously mentioned, this step is not required if the oil hole lies within certain limits. This block was not used but it would still be OK. I just didn't like the enlarged oil feed hole done by a previous owner.


Another view of the block conversion. As long as there is a channel cut on the base of the block to allow it to clear  a casting on the head, the block will sit flat and square and function normally.
If it doesn't sit flat, it will leak oil and be largely ineffective as a tensioner.

Junk under the RHS guard.
Junk under the RHS guard. 2003-04-17

Similar deposits under LHS guard.
Similar deposits under LHS guard. 2003-04-17

RHS guard showing mud caked at the base.
RHS guard showing mud caked at the base. 2003-04-17

LHS guard. This is an aftermarket repro. item but has no internal rust.
LHS guard. This is an aftermarket repro. item but has no internal rust. 2003-04-17

You can see the mud at the top of the guard flange.
You can see the mud at the top of the guard flange. 2003-04-17

Most of the fasteners came out OK, but some snapped off.
Most of the fasteners came out OK, but some snapped off. 2003-04-17

Hole in leading edge of RHS sill panel. Jase has been planning for this job, he has provided me with replacement sills f
Hole in leading edge of RHS sill panel. Jase has been planning for this job, he has provided me with replacement sills f

The LHS sill looks OK here but just wait for it!
The LHS sill looks OK here but just wait for it! 2003-04-17

Rear section of LHS sill. This little bloke has been to the beach, the sill had ~25mm of beach sand in the bottom of it!
Rear section of LHS sill. This little bloke has been to the beach, the sill had ~25mm of beach sand in the bottom of it!

LHS sill showing the white beach sand in the base of the sill.Not a good sign!
LHS sill showing the white beach sand in the base of the sill.Not a good sign! 2003-04-17

Front section of RHS sill. Not at all well.
Front section of RHS sill. Not at all well. 2003-04-17

Front LH corner had received a wack at some stage, I gently and skillfully bashed it back into a reasonable shape.
Front LH corner had received a wack at some stage, I gently and skillfully bashed it back into a reasonable shape. 2003-

The inside of the wheel arch was wrinkled where the impact ocurred.
The inside of the wheel arch was wrinkled where the impact ocurred. 2003-04-18

After dent knocking, all the cracks tears and holes were welded up.
After dent knocking, all the cracks tears and holes were welded up. 2003-04-18

Similarly the RHS was required to be patched up. The holes were from the valance panel being pop riveted to the radiator
Similarly the RHS was required to be patched up. The holes were from the valance panel being pop riveted to the radiator

All prepped and ready for some etch primer.
All prepped and ready for some etch primer. 2003-04-18

Radiator panel sprayed with etch primer: - looks better already!
Radiator panel sprayed with etch primer: - looks better already! 2003-04-18

LHS wheel arch seams have been cleaned, rust treated and primed with etch primer. Then the seam was re-sealed with Seam
LHS wheel arch seams have been cleaned, rust treated and primed with etch primer. Then the seam was re-sealed with Seam

RHS was done as well. The trick is to treat the bare metal BEFORE applying the seam sealer so the seam should be well pr
RHS was done as well. The trick is to treat the bare metal BEFORE applying the seam sealer so the seam should be well pr

RHS wheel arch sprayed with Stone Guard, a thick flexible chip resistant coating.
RHS wheel arch sprayed with Stone Guard, a thick flexible chip resistant coating. 2003-04-19

LHS finished in Stone Guard.
LHS finished in Stone Guard. 2003-04-19

As result of the beach excursion, the floor has also rotted out.
As result of the beach excursion, the floor has also rotted out. 2003-04-19

Holes patched in LHS kick panel. Both were for radio antenna leads. The upper one conveniently broke into the drain chan
Holes patched in LHS kick panel. Both were for radio antenna leads. The upper one conveniently broke into the drain chan

LHS guard stripped of paint but showing advanced surface rust.
LHS guard stripped of paint but showing advanced surface rust. 2003-04-22

RHS guard with minimum rust. I have since identified that this guard is also an after market repro. No wonder they were
RHS guard with minimum rust. I have since identified that this guard is also an after market repro. No wonder they were

The tried and true method of removing broken fasteners. Why these tailgate chain bolts were 50mm long escapes me!
The tried and true method of removing broken fasteners. Why these tailgate chain bolts were 50mm long escapes me! 2003-0

Ditto for this one.
Ditto for this one. 2003-04-22

Finally got him out.
Finally got him out. 2003-04-22

Tailights out and not much rust found behind them.
Tailights out and not much rust found behind them. 2003-04-22

RHS rear inner wheel arch. Very dodgy in places. Will be patched in due course.
RHS rear inner wheel arch. Very dodgy in places. Will be patched in due course. 2003-04-22

Fuel filler area in reasonable condition.
Fuel filler area in reasonable condition. 2003-04-22

Front valance stripped of paint. This is a repro panel and has advanced surface rust on the outside.
Front valance stripped of paint. This is a repro panel and has advanced surface rust on the outside. 2003-04-22

Rear RHS corner has been wacked too.Impossible to dent knock, I will clean up the area and use body filler to reshape.
Rear RHS corner has been wacked too.Impossible to dent knock, I will clean up the area and use body filler to reshape. 2

Rear window surround is very ordinary. Jase has purchased a new seal so the window comes out and the rustouts can be pat
Rear window surround is very ordinary. Jase has purchased a new seal so the window comes out and the rustouts can be pat

LHS door gutter has a few problems....
LHS door gutter has a few problems.... 2003-04-22

...as you can see.
...as you can see. 2003-04-22

LHS cabin vent has a little problem but will not require a patch.
LHS cabin vent has a little problem but will not require a patch. 2003-04-22

LHS guard after lots of wire brushing to remove deep surface rust. A couple of hard to get to dents have been treated wi
LHS guard after lots of wire brushing to remove deep surface rust. A couple of hard to get to dents have been treated wi

Check out the hole at the leading edge of the RHS door opening!
Check out the hole at the leading edge of the RHS door opening! 2003-04-23

Front valence has been wire brushed, prep treated and now ready for etch primer.
Front valence has been wire brushed, prep treated and now ready for etch primer. 2003-04-23

As per normal no treatment or paint was put under the door hinges in the factory. I will clean, treat and prime this are
As per normal no treatment or paint was put under the door hinges in the factory. I will clean, treat and prime this are

Fill, sand, fill, sand, I'll get the hang of this one day!
Fill, sand, fill, sand, I'll get the hang of this one day! 2003-04-24

Door hinge mounts and extra hole in "A" pillar have been cleaned and rust treated.....
Door hinge mounts and extra hole in "A" pillar have been cleaned and rust treated..... 2003-04-24

.....as has LHS.
.....as has LHS. 2003-04-24

LHS cabin vent cleaned and rust treated.
LHS cabin vent cleaned and rust treated. 2003-04-24

The "recalcitrant fastener extraction tool" grows by the day!
The "recalcitrant fastener extraction tool" grows by the day! 2007-09-08

After many happy hours of cutting, chiselling and cussing, the LHS sill has been removed.
After many happy hours of cutting, chiselling and cussing, the LHS sill has been removed. 2003-04-24

A bit hard to see, but I have filled all floor pan holes and patched a rustout immediately above the rear of the floor p
A bit hard to see, but I have filled all floor pan holes and patched a rustout immediately above the rear of the floor p

RHS with all holes filled. Gave the cabin a good hosing out to wash away the grit, fluff and fur etc. so perhaps I'
RHS with all holes filled. Gave the cabin a good hosing out to wash away the grit, fluff and fur etc. so perhaps I'

Removed the rear window glass.LHS shows severe rustout at bottom corner of window opening.
Removed the rear window glass.LHS shows severe rustout at bottom corner of window opening. 2003-04-27

Another problem at the centre of the rear window.
Another problem at the centre of the rear window. 2003-04-27

RHS corner is also rotted through.
RHS corner is also rotted through. 2003-04-27

Inside of RHS bottom corner. In my opinion, this is all due to design fault. If the panels were assembled in a reverse f
Inside of RHS bottom corner. In my opinion, this is all due to design fault. If the panels were assembled in a reverse f

I knew it was white but until I scrubbed up the tray, I did not know how white.
I knew it was white but until I scrubbed up the tray, I did not know how white. 2003-04-27

Battery tray has a simple surface rust problem, not bad for a 23 year old car!
Battery tray has a simple surface rust problem, not bad for a 23 year old car! 2003-04-27

ANZAC DAY 2003, Missy Duck hatched 12 lovely healthy bright and beautiful ducklings!!
ANZAC DAY 2003, Missy Duck hatched 12 lovely healthy bright and beautiful ducklings!! 2003-04-27

I know this is a digression, but have you ever seen a duck, or any animal for that matter, hatch 12 babies ON THE SAME D
I know this is a digression, but have you ever seen a duck, or any animal for that matter, hatch 12 babies ON THE SAME D

They are only 2 days old and are almost self sufficient!Ain't life grand!!!
They are only 2 days old and are almost self sufficient!Ain't life grand!!! 2003-04-27

Now come on, don't you just love a little duck or twelve?
Now come on, don't you just love a little duck or twelve? 2003-04-26

Surgery performed to remove the rotten parts of the rear window flange, and, once patched.....
Surgery performed to remove the rotten parts of the rear window flange, and, once patched..... 2003-04-28

.....will prevent any possibility of moisture entering the cabin area in future.....
.....will prevent any possibility of moisture entering the cabin area in future..... 2003-04-28

.....which collects at this "factory drain" and causes much grief. This shelf is the coming together of a) the
.....which collects at this "factory drain" and causes much grief. This shelf is the coming together of a) the

New rear window seal fitted temporarily.All superflouous holes have been welded up and panel has been expertly dent knoc
New rear window seal fitted temporarily.All superflouous holes have been welded up and panel has been expertly dent knoc

Black line shows perimeter of new seal, so my patching should be hidden from view.
Black line shows perimeter of new seal, so my patching should be hidden from view. 2003-04-28

Under side of bonnet has been cleaned and surface rust removed with a wire brush. A few little rustouts need to be patch
Under side of bonnet has been cleaned and surface rust removed with a wire brush. A few little rustouts need to be patch

Windshield is out, aperture has been cleaned of old rubber and sealant. Looks good rust wise.
Windshield is out, aperture has been cleaned of old rubber and sealant. Looks good rust wise. 2003-04-29

The only hole was right in the bottom middle adjacent LHS windshield wiper pivot. Note that any moisture from this hole
The only hole was right in the bottom middle adjacent LHS windshield wiper pivot. Note that any moisture from this hole

Front suspension has been removed pending a disc brake upgrade. Entire wheel arch area has been scrubbed up ready for pr
Front suspension has been removed pending a disc brake upgrade. Entire wheel arch area has been scrubbed up ready for pr

LHS also scrubbed up well. Same story, the seams way up the top require some attention.All dents have been carefully kno
LHS also scrubbed up well. Same story, the seams way up the top require some attention.All dents have been carefully kno

Rust has been treated and a patch welded into the front edge of the LHS strut tower. All bare areas have been touched up
Rust has been treated and a patch welded into the front edge of the LHS strut tower. All bare areas have been touched up

RHS did not require any patches but some rust was evident. It has been treated and etch primed. The engine bay will rece
RHS did not require any patches but some rust was evident. It has been treated and etch primed. The engine bay will rece

RHS wheel arch all set for a coating of Stone Chip, a flexible, chip resistant underbody coating.
RHS wheel arch all set for a coating of Stone Chip, a flexible, chip resistant underbody coating. 2003-05-06

Completed RHS wheel arch. Compare this pic. with image 1. At last things are getting a finishing coat!
Completed RHS wheel arch. Compare this pic. with image 1. At last things are getting a finishing coat! 2003-05-06

Holes at windshield flange have been repaired. I will need to fill a few small depressions with body filler, but there i
Holes at windshield flange have been repaired. I will need to fill a few small depressions with body filler, but there i

I knew there was some filler above the LHS door, but I didn't expect to find this! It may have been accident damage
I knew there was some filler above the LHS door, but I didn't expect to find this! It may have been accident damage

Well, there we are, a fully re-conditioned front suspension and steering linkage. All balljoints have been lubed and hav
Well, there we are, a fully re-conditioned front suspension and steering linkage. All balljoints have been lubed and hav

RHS hardware all mounted. The disc brake donor was a Datsun 1200 Coupe. It all fits but there is a definate sequence inv
RHS hardware all mounted. The disc brake donor was a Datsun 1200 Coupe. It all fits but there is a definate sequence inv

Caliper clears everything and even the alloy wheels fit...only just! The LHS caliper may need a little massaging to cle
Caliper clears everything and even the alloy wheels fit...only just! The LHS caliper may need a little massaging to cle

Taken from the RHS wheel well, the leading edge of the under floor chassis rail was rotted out and has been surgically r
Taken from the RHS wheel well, the leading edge of the under floor chassis rail was rotted out and has been surgically r

After welding in a patch, I will dose up the rails with fish oil to protect the bare metal inside the rail.
After welding in a patch, I will dose up the rails with fish oil to protect the bare metal inside the rail. 2007-09-08

Radiator panel has been top coated in Satin Black. Hey Jason, it's back on wheels!
Radiator panel has been top coated in Satin Black. Hey Jason, it's back on wheels! 2007-09-08

Rustout at front RH corner of bonnet has been cut out.
Rustout at front RH corner of bonnet has been cut out. 2007-09-08

Patch made up to replace rustout.
Patch made up to replace rustout. 2007-09-08

Patch slips into panel where the previous piece was spot welded.
Patch slips into panel where the previous piece was spot welded. 2007-09-08

6mm holes drilled in top sheet so the patch can be plug welded to the skin.
6mm holes drilled in top sheet so the patch can be plug welded to the skin. 2007-09-08

Finished patch, plug welds ground lightly to smooth off. Just as strong as spot welding.
Finished patch, plug welds ground lightly to smooth off. Just as strong as spot welding. 2007-09-08

Fuel filler well has been treated, primed and seams sealed.
Fuel filler well has been treated, primed and seams sealed. 2007-09-08

Repairs at windshield flange now primed.
Repairs at windshield flange now primed. 2007-09-08

LHS cabin vent treated, primed and sealed.
LHS cabin vent treated, primed and sealed. 2007-09-08

Bare areas on bonnet now primed.
Bare areas on bonnet now primed. 2007-09-08

Uh oh, a little rustout in the chassis rail abve the RHS rear wheel. Poor drainage and a long horizontal section allowed
Uh oh, a little rustout in the chassis rail abve the RHS rear wheel. Poor drainage and a long horizontal section allowed

Door hinges and repair areas primed.
Door hinges and repair areas primed. 2007-09-08

LHS door has been stripped, de-greased, scrubbed inside and out. Rust has been treated and bare metal spot primed. Insid
LHS door has been stripped, de-greased, scrubbed inside and out. Rust has been treated and bare metal spot primed. Insid

RHS door received the same treatment but was a little worse for wear, hence a lot more primer applied from the spray gun
RHS door received the same treatment but was a little worse for wear, hence a lot more primer applied from the spray gun

Rusted metal completely removed from LHS floor pan/sill area.
sill area. 2007-09-08

Tabs replaced at the end of the front and rear seat rails. These tabs will be plug welded to the patch panel yet to be f
Tabs replaced at the end of the front and rear seat rails. These tabs will be plug welded to the patch panel yet to be f

Patch cut and tack welded to floor pan. Excess metal will be trimmed off when welding is completed. I have to re-build t
Patch cut and tack welded to floor pan. Excess metal will be trimmed off when welding is completed. I have to re-build t

Patch has been welded to the seat rail tabs and the floor pan. I then used an angle grinder to trim it back to approx. t
Patch has been welded to the seat rail tabs and the floor pan. I then used an angle grinder to trim it back to approx. t

Second patch for the LHS floor repair. This one has been drilled for 4 plug welds to the seat rail tabs added before.
Second patch for the LHS floor repair. This one has been drilled for 4 plug welds to the seat rail tabs added before. 20

Patch 2 tack welded in position.
Patch 2 tack welded in position. 2007-09-08

Patch 2 welding completed.
Patch 2 welding completed. 2007-09-08

Inner panel for sill has now been completely reconstructed including the curve at the rear wheel arch base.
Inner panel for sill has now been completely reconstructed including the curve at the rear wheel arch base. 2007-09-08

Extra metal will be added to the wheel arch patch to follow the curvature of the panel.
Extra metal will be added to the wheel arch patch to follow the curvature of the panel. 2007-09-08

I haven't cut out this same area on the RHS of the body, so I can make a template to shape the curved panel. No pat
I haven't cut out this same area on the RHS of the body, so I can make a template to shape the curved panel. No pat

Trial fit of replacement sill panel. A lot of work yet before this fella can be welded in.
Trial fit of replacement sill panel. A lot of work yet before this fella can be welded in. 2007-09-08

Patching the second thickness sill panel from sound metal to the bottom flange. When the outer sill panel is welded in,
Patching the second thickness sill panel from sound metal to the bottom flange. When the outer sill panel is welded in,

Plug welds have been ground smooth and the next panel will be welded at the same points. The plug welds are at 50mm inte
Plug welds have been ground smooth and the next panel will be welded at the same points. The plug welds are at 50mm inte

Well, as near as I can estimate, this is what the inner sill looked like before we played on the beach.
Well, as near as I can estimate, this is what the inner sill looked like before we played on the beach. 2007-09-08

I think its time to refit the sill panel and.....
I think its time to refit the sill panel and..... 2007-09-08

.....see if the front guard fits OK. Well, the holes line up and the panel gap is acceptable. Won't be long now!
.....see if the front guard fits OK. Well, the holes line up and the panel gap is acceptable. Won't be long now! 20

Plug weld holes drilled, sill clamped in place, we are all set to go!
Plug weld holes drilled, sill clamped in place, we are all set to go! 2007-09-08

So far, so good. My new "plug welding pliers" are clever. They have a copper backing plate to prevent the plie
So far, so good. My new "plug welding pliers" are clever. They have a copper backing plate to prevent the plie

The door flange welding is finished, apart from pressing the "A" and "B" pillar metal back from wher
The door flange welding is finished, apart from pressing the "A" and "B" pillar metal back from wher

Lower edge of sill has been lifted into position with a hydraulic jack and clamped to line up with the lower flange edge
Lower edge of sill has been lifted into position with a hydraulic jack and clamped to line up with the lower flange edge

Plug welding all done, "A" and "B pillar metal has been folded back and welded to new sill panel.
Plug welding all done, "A" and "B pillar metal has been folded back and welded to new sill panel. 2007-09

Welds are still to be smoothed off but I wasn't game to use the electric grinder, the rain has beaten me!
Welds are still to be smoothed off but I wasn't game to use the electric grinder, the rain has beaten me! 2007-09-0

Patch made up for the leading corner of the LHS door opening.
Patch made up for the leading corner of the LHS door opening. 2007-09-08

Patch welded in.Now for a bit of tidying up.
Patch welded in.Now for a bit of tidying up. 2007-09-08

Patch smoothed out and after a little body filler, should be AOK.
Patch smoothed out and after a little body filler, should be AOK. 2007-09-08

Well, all the welds have been tidied up and the sill is now ready for primer preparation.
Well, all the welds have been tidied up and the sill is now ready for primer preparation. 2007-09-08

RHS sill,"A" and "B" pillars all prepped ready for etch primer.
RHS sill,"A" and "B" pillars all prepped ready for etch primer. 2007-09-08

All done. I'll apply some seam sealer at the junction of the panels after the primer is well dried.
All done. I'll apply some seam sealer at the junction of the panels after the primer is well dried. 2007-09-08

View after opening up the RHS sill panel. Check the deposits, sand and soil. It will find its' way in but will not
View after opening up the RHS sill panel. Check the deposits, sand and soil. It will find its' way in but will not

Looking rearward you can see the bottom of the sill has ~30mm of sand trapped in it.
Looking rearward you can see the bottom of the sill has ~30mm of sand trapped in it. 2007-09-08

Front half has been cleaned of spot weld dags and a hole 50x60mm cut at the leading edge to fix a rustout.
Front half has been cleaned of spot weld dags and a hole 50x60mm cut at the leading edge to fix a rustout. 2007-09-08

Rear half cut free. Although the inner sill panel looks a little sad, it is largely intact. It may have lost a little we
Rear half cut free. Although the inner sill panel looks a little sad, it is largely intact. It may have lost a little we

Rear half after spotweld dags cleaned off.
Rear half after spotweld dags cleaned off. 2007-09-08

You can see that the inner sill panel curves very close to the outer sill panel, creating a wonderful debris trap. A few
You can see that the inner sill panel curves very close to the outer sill panel, creating a wonderful debris trap. A few

A closer examination of the exposed inner sill shows a few suspect areas. I will examine the integrity of the metal and
A closer examination of the exposed inner sill shows a few suspect areas. I will examine the integrity of the metal and

Surgery has been performed on any suspect sections of the RHS sill panel.
Surgery has been performed on any suspect sections of the RHS sill panel. 2007-09-08

Patches welded in and welds ground smooth. After replacing the missing inner sill section, it will be all go for the new
Patches welded in and welds ground smooth. After replacing the missing inner sill section, it will be all go for the new

Inner sill panel repaired and additional plate welded in for jacking point.
Inner sill panel repaired and additional plate welded in for jacking point. 2007-09-08

Closeup of jacking point area.
Closeup of jacking point area. 2007-09-08

Trial fit of RHS sill panel. Guard mount hole lines up with the centre of the oval hole at the base of guard. Gaps look
Trial fit of RHS sill panel. Guard mount hole lines up with the centre of the oval hole at the base of guard. Gaps look

New sections added to the base of the RHS "A" pillar.
New sections added to the base of the RHS "A" pillar. 2007-09-08

Dots mark the location of a pair of plug welds to be done.
Dots mark the location of a pair of plug welds to be done. 2007-09-08

RHS sill clamped in final position ready for welding.
RHS sill clamped in final position ready for welding. 2007-09-08

Sill welding is complete, just a little patch in the trailing corner of the "A" pillar to go.
Sill welding is complete, just a little patch in the trailing corner of the "A" pillar to go. 2007-09-08

Shaped patch has been butt welded to the sound metal of the "A" pillar skin.
Shaped patch has been butt welded to the sound metal of the "A" pillar skin. 2007-09-08

Completed patch with welds ground smooth. Sill is completed now, but shipping primer needs stripping off and then the ba
Completed patch with welds ground smooth. Sill is completed now, but shipping primer needs stripping off and then the ba

LHS "A" pillar gutter patch clamped and plug welded.
LHS "A" pillar gutter patch clamped and plug welded. 2003-06-07

Very awkward to hold in position but it went OK.
Very awkward to hold in position but it went OK. 2007-09-08

Finished welding and it doesn't look half bad.
Finished welding and it doesn't look half bad. 2007-09-08

Patch from door opening. The external bend will be cut back to match the original gutter dimension.
Patch from door opening. The external bend will be cut back to match the original gutter dimension. 2007-09-08

LHS gutter flange has been cut to size and shaped into the original lines.
LHS gutter flange has been cut to size and shaped into the original lines. 2003-07-09

Surgery performed on the roof/gutter rustout at the rear of the LHS door.
gutter rustout at the rear of the LHS door. 2003-06-07

Inner roof panel is quite sad, but only close to the gutter area.
Inner roof panel is quite sad, but only close to the gutter area. 2003-06-07

Inner roof panel has been cut back to sound metal.
Inner roof panel has been cut back to sound metal. 2003-06-07

This area has to be rebuilt from the inside out to replace inner skin, gutter and outer skin.
This area has to be rebuilt from the inside out to replace inner skin, gutter and outer skin. 2003-06-07

Patch nearly ready for the inner panel. The "B" pillar is where the strength must be restored.
Patch nearly ready for the inner panel. The "B" pillar is where the strength must be restored. 2003-06-07

Inner roof patch tacked in position.
Inner roof patch tacked in position. 2003-06-08

Inner roof patch completed and welds tidied up. Next patch is a new gutter section.
Inner roof patch completed and welds tidied up. Next patch is a new gutter section. 2003-06-08

Rear section of LHS roof gutter has been patched.
Rear section of LHS roof gutter has been patched. 2003-06-25

Patch has been welded the full length to gain maximum strength for the next patch, the external roof skin.
Patch has been welded the full length to gain maximum strength for the next patch, the external roof skin. 2007-09-08

Roof skin patch is getting close.It will be trimmed to length and then welded.
Roof skin patch is getting close.It will be trimmed to length and then welded. 2003-06-25

A little more massaging on the curves and it should fit nicely. The compound curve at the rear corner will be a challang
A little more massaging on the curves and it should fit nicely. The compound curve at the rear corner will be a challang

Shape is now good, plug welds have been done inside the gutter.
Shape is now good, plug welds have been done inside the gutter. 2003-06-25

Now to carefully weld the two panels together. Any buckling will have to be treated with body filler.
Now to carefully weld the two panels together. Any buckling will have to be treated with body filler. 2003-06-25

Well, the patch worked out fine.The top of the "B" pillar was so thin and the seams polluted with brazing, I c
Well, the patch worked out fine.The top of the "B" pillar was so thin and the seams polluted with brazing, I c

Patch made for the LHS "B" pillar. Lets see how we go this time.
Patch made for the LHS "B" pillar. Lets see how we go this time. 2003-06-26

Although the shape is almost exact, I expect the parent metal to sag due to the welding heat.
Although the shape is almost exact, I expect the parent metal to sag due to the welding heat. 2003-06-26

All set to go. There are 3 plug welds in the vertical flange and the butt weld around the perimeter to do.
All set to go. There are 3 plug welds in the vertical flange and the butt weld around the perimeter to do. 2003-06-26

All done. The welds will be ground smooth and a little filler will repair the dips.
All done. The welds will be ground smooth and a little filler will repair the dips. 2003-06-26

Roof gutter flange shaped and finished.
Roof gutter flange shaped and finished. 2003-07-09

Surgery lines marked on RHS "A" pillar.
Surgery lines marked on RHS "A" pillar. 2007-09-08

Rusted section of gutter cut out.
Rusted section of gutter cut out. 2007-09-08

"A" pillar is in reasonable condition, a wire brush cleaned it up fine.
"A" pillar is in reasonable condition, a wire brush cleaned it up fine. 2007-09-08

New gutter patch clamped in position ready for plug welding. Note the tiny hole below the patch, he will be filled in al
New gutter patch clamped in position ready for plug welding. Note the tiny hole below the patch, he will be filled in al

Clamps are just right to hold the patch against the "A" pillar.
Clamps are just right to hold the patch against the "A" pillar. 2007-09-08

Completed patch with seams and plug welds ground smooth.
Completed patch with seams and plug welds ground smooth. 2007-09-08

As with the LHS, I will trim the patch edge back to match the original gutter dimension. Now I have to treat the metal a
As with the LHS, I will trim the patch edge back to match the original gutter dimension. Now I have to treat the metal a

RHS gutter flange has been finished also.
RHS gutter flange has been finished also. 2007-09-08

Hey Jason, look what I've found!!! If I can just get this 3 litre V6 to fit into the ute, just think how it will go
Hey Jason, look what I've found!!! If I can just get this 3 litre V6 to fit into the ute, just think how it will go

My supervisor in action!!
My supervisor in action!! 2003-06-25

Rear window flange under repair.
Rear window flange under repair. 2003-07-05

Not happy with the rusty area, it is very thin. I think I'll cut this section out and renew it with a patch.
Not happy with the rusty area, it is very thin. I think I'll cut this section out and renew it with a patch. 2003-0

Well, I was right, the area with the surface rust was VERY thin, but now removed.
Well, I was right, the area with the surface rust was VERY thin, but now removed. 2003-07-06

Patch welded in and marked for trimming to size.
Patch welded in and marked for trimming to size. 2003-07-06

I used the metal that was cut out as a pattern for the curve.
I used the metal that was cut out as a pattern for the curve. 2003-07-06

LHS flange patch in the process of being shaped into the rear panel.
LHS flange patch in the process of being shaped into the rear panel. 2003-07-06

Nearly completed, just requiring the vertical flange to be filled and welded.
Nearly completed, just requiring the vertical flange to be filled and welded. 2003-07-06

RHS flange patch in the process of being shaped into the rear panel.
RHS flange patch in the process of being shaped into the rear panel. 2003-07-06

Completed RHS flange patch. All welds will now be ground smooth to restore the correct profile of the window flange. Apa
Completed RHS flange patch. All welds will now be ground smooth to restore the correct profile of the window flange. Apa

Rear window flange and patches are now ground smooth and shaped to accept new seal.
Rear window flange and patches are now ground smooth and shaped to accept new seal. 2003-07-09

Focus is not too good but this is the surgery performed on the chassis adjacent the RH rear wheel. The trickey bit was t
Focus is not too good but this is the surgery performed on the chassis adjacent the RH rear wheel. The trickey bit was t

Inner patch completed. After patching the outer panel, the crevice between the two panels will be blown clean and then d
Inner patch completed. After patching the outer panel, the crevice between the two panels will be blown clean and then d

Cardboard template of patch for the leading edge of the RHS chassis rail.
Cardboard template of patch for the leading edge of the RHS chassis rail. 2003-07-26

Front bumper brackets and rear tailgate catches have been grit blasted back to bare metal. They should finish up nicely
Front bumper brackets and rear tailgate catches have been grit blasted back to bare metal. They should finish up nicely

RHS rear sill area. The profile of the inner rear wheel arch panel is under construction. The surface rust on the inner
RHS rear sill area. The profile of the inner rear wheel arch panel is under construction. The surface rust on the inner

Dummy fit up of a sectioned front sill panel to patch the rear sill area.
Dummy fit up of a sectioned front sill panel to patch the rear sill area. 2003-10-26

Holes for plug welds have been drilled along the bottom flange and tack welding in progress on the top butt join.
Holes for plug welds have been drilled along the bottom flange and tack welding in progress on the top butt join. 2003-1

Fit of the patch panel is good, it follows the contour of the front sill OK.
Fit of the patch panel is good, it follows the contour of the front sill OK. 2003-10-26

The tricky bit is to avoid the panel sinking too much while doing the butt weld.
The tricky bit is to avoid the panel sinking too much while doing the butt weld. 2003-10-26

Plug welds all finished on the bottom flange. I used a string line to ensure the two sills were in alignment.
Plug welds all finished on the bottom flange. I used a string line to ensure the two sills were in alignment. 2003-10-26

Completed butt weld. An little patch is required at the wheel arch end to finish off.
Completed butt weld. An little patch is required at the wheel arch end to finish off. 2003-10-26

Panel shape turned out good, a little filler will be needed to tidy up the shape after I grind the welds smooth.
Panel shape turned out good, a little filler will be needed to tidy up the shape after I grind the welds smooth. 2003-10

Patch welded in to the wheel arch area. I will shape it up better with the grinder.
Patch welded in to the wheel arch area. I will shape it up better with the grinder. 2003-10-26

Trailing edge of RHS sill has been trimmed and the final patch clamped ready for welding.
Trailing edge of RHS sill has been trimmed and the final patch clamped ready for welding. 2003-11-03

Sill patch completed, ground smooth and profile looks good.
Sill patch completed, ground smooth and profile looks good. 2003-11-03

A little surgery on the RHR wheel arch.
A little surgery on the RHR wheel arch. 2003-10-28

The crevice between the inner and outer panels was filled with sand, thus causing the rust out at the apex of the arch.
The crevice between the inner and outer panels was filled with sand, thus causing the rust out at the apex of the arch.

I tried to save the curvature but it was trashed. Another patch panel coming up!
I tried to save the curvature but it was trashed. Another patch panel coming up! 2003-10-28

New wheel arch profile lines up with template.
New wheel arch profile lines up with template. 2003-10-29

Part way through welding in tabs from sound metal to new wheel arch strip.
Part way through welding in tabs from sound metal to new wheel arch strip. 2003-10-29

Nearly there, the wheel arch strip has barely moved from position.
Nearly there, the wheel arch strip has barely moved from position. 2003-10-29

Inner panel is now completed. Some minor re-shaping, and bit of a surface grind to tidy up and job done.
Inner panel is now completed. Some minor re-shaping, and bit of a surface grind to tidy up and job done. 2003-10-29

Cardboard template for the new outer skin patch.
Cardboard template for the new outer skin patch. 2003-10-31

Shaped metal patch. Required some gentle compound curves to blend in with the panel line.
Shaped metal patch. Required some gentle compound curves to blend in with the panel line. 2003-10-31

Patch panel tacked into position.
Patch panel tacked into position. 2003-11-01

More welds, as slowly and carefully as possible to avoid the panels from buckling.
More welds, as slowly and carefully as possible to avoid the panels from buckling. 2003-11-01

Completed patch. There has been some buckling but it may be straightened with the right body spoon.
Completed patch. There has been some buckling but it may be straightened with the right body spoon. 2003-11-01

Profile of wheel arch has been double checked and trimmed to size. A new strip will be welded to this patch to give the
Profile of wheel arch has been double checked and trimmed to size. A new strip will be welded to this patch to give the

The outer skin was clamped in the right position before the tabs were welded from the inner to the outer.
The outer skin was clamped in the right position before the tabs were welded from the inner to the outer. 2003-11-03

Seen from the top, the patch curvature blends in nicely with the existing panel.
Seen from the top, the patch curvature blends in nicely with the existing panel. 2003-11-03

More tabs and a fusion weld right on the wheel arch lip to give the edge plenty of strength.
More tabs and a fusion weld right on the wheel arch lip to give the edge plenty of strength. 2003-11-03

Just a few more tabs to go and the overall shape is looking pretty good,
Just a few more tabs to go and the overall shape is looking pretty good, 2003-11-03

Wheel arch return has been cut back to match original panel and edge has been lightly ground to shape and smooth.
Wheel arch return has been cut back to match original panel and edge has been lightly ground to shape and smooth. 2003-1

A thin skim of body filler and the patch will blend in nicely.
A thin skim of body filler and the patch will blend in nicely. 2003-11-03

Arch line is pretty good with just a few little dips in the metal.
Arch line is pretty good with just a few little dips in the metal. 2003-11-03

The more you look.... Inside of the LHS rear wheel arch showing several rust outs. I feel another patch coming on!
The more you look.... Inside of the LHS rear wheel arch showing several rust outs. I feel another patch coming on! 2003-

Tray side of rear RHS wheel well showing more surgery.
Tray side of rear RHS wheel well showing more surgery. 2003-11-04

Some holes were filled with filler rod but there were a couple of big patches required.
Some holes were filled with filler rod but there were a couple of big patches required. 2003-11-04

Base of rear LHS wheel arch is peppered with holes so......
Base of rear LHS wheel arch is peppered with holes so...... 2003-11-04

......the whole area was cut out .
......the whole area was cut out . 2003-11-04

New floor patch ready to be butt and plug welded to sound metal.
New floor patch ready to be butt and plug welded to sound metal. 2003-11-04

Floor patch seen from inside the rear LHS wheel arch.
Floor patch seen from inside the rear LHS wheel arch. 2003-11-04

Flange now welded, ready for a new wheel tub section.
Flange now welded, ready for a new wheel tub section. 2003-11-04

Top view of floor patch.
Top view of floor patch. 2003-11-04

Welds cleaned up to provide a nice smooth panel for the wheel arch tub patch to join to.
Welds cleaned up to provide a nice smooth panel for the wheel arch tub patch to join to. 2003-11-04

Completed wheel tub patch.
Completed wheel tub patch. 2003-11-05

All tided up. Strength is critical in this area so I seam and stich welded the patches together.
All tided up. Strength is critical in this area so I seam and stich welded the patches together. 2003-11-05

Inside wheel arch after grinding smooth.
Inside wheel arch after grinding smooth. 2003-11-05

Surgery done on rear LHS wheel arch metal.
Surgery done on rear LHS wheel arch metal. 2003-11-05

Profile of wheel arch established with new flange section.
Profile of wheel arch established with new flange section. 2003-11-09

Completed inner wheel tub panel.
Completed inner wheel tub panel. 2003-11-09

Completed LHR wheel arch repair.
Completed LHR wheel arch repair. 2003-12-06

Flange trimmed to correct size.
Flange trimmed to correct size. 2003-12-06

View of flange after trimming to size.
View of flange after trimming to size. 2003-12-06

Wheel arch shape after grinding the welds smooth.
Wheel arch shape after grinding the welds smooth. 2003-12-06

LHS rear sill panel trial fit.
LHS rear sill panel trial fit. 2003-12-13

All set to be welded in. First I need to complete the inner sill panel to the wheel arch shape.
All set to be welded in. First I need to complete the inner sill panel to the wheel arch shape. 2003-12-13

Just when you thought it safe to go back into the water.....more rustouts.....
Just when you thought it safe to go back into the water.....more rustouts..... 2003-12-18

......and another!
......and another! 2003-12-18

Reconstructing the LHR wheel arch and inner sill panel.
Reconstructing the LHR wheel arch and inner sill panel. 2003-12-18

Needs trimming to size but shape is AOK. Ready now to attach the rear sill outer skin.
Needs trimming to size but shape is AOK. Ready now to attach the rear sill outer skin. 2003-12-18

Completed LHS rear sill patch panel. Butt weld has been ground smooth as has the plug welds at the bottom flange.
Completed LHS rear sill patch panel. Butt weld has been ground smooth as has the plug welds at the bottom flange. 2003-1

Centre section of tray cabin seam has had the worst of the corrosion cut out and the seam fusion welded.
Centre section of tray cabin seam has had the worst of the corrosion cut out and the seam fusion welded. 2003-12-22

A new section is being welded to the repaired seam. The 90 degree return will provide some measure of strength to the se
A new section is being welded to the repaired seam. The 90 degree return will provide some measure of strength to the se

Completed repair showing new patch panel to add strength to the repair.I think I will drill a few drain holes in this fl
Completed repair showing new patch panel to add strength to the repair.I think I will drill a few drain holes in this fl

Post Script.The Ute was written off in an accident in June 2004.I never saw the finished product. Apparently it looked r
Post Script.The Ute was written off in an accident in June 2004.I never saw the finished product. Apparently it looked r

Retainer weatherstrip body
Retainer weatherstrip body.jpg 2002-09-29

Roadster_swaybar.jpg
Roadster_swaybar.jpg 2003-03-01

2675
2675.jpg 2004-11-10

2676
2676.jpg 2004-11-10

2678
2678.jpg 2004-11-10

2679
2679.jpg 2004-11-10

2680
2680.jpg 2004-11-10

fairlady 066
Crank scraper installed. White marker shows where some grinding was required to allow the crank to clear the scraper.

fairlady 067 a.jpg
There was some interference but easily remedied.


Temperature gauge sensor and retaining collar.


Here is my original Regulator decal. It is barely legible now, having shrunk and wrinkled down to a postage stamp size!


Here is my original Alternator Warning decal. Also, barely legible. The decal was re-created in a digital editor.


Closeup of the Alternator Warning decal on white vinyl backing.


Closeup of the Alternator Warning decal on reflective silver backing. Decal retains the spacing, colour and grammar.


Closeup of Regulator decal on white vinyl backing.


Regulator reproduction decal sheet. These are on a heavy duty white vinyl backing sheet.


Alternator Warning reproduction decal sheet. This batch are on a reflective silver foil backing sheet, as per OEM decal.


Alternator Warning reproduction decal sheet. This batch is on a white vinyl backing sheet.


Front end service set.

Front end service kit.jpg
Front end service kit.jpg 2007-10-31


Front end service set contents.

Pitman arm removers
Pitman arm removers.jpg 2007-10-31

Ball joint remover.jpg
Ball joint remover.jpg 2007-10-31


Starter wiring connections.

LHS sill 070
LHS sill 070.jpg 2008-05-26

Sales Brochure, page 2.


SR(L)311
Service Manual

SP(L)310 1965


Sales Brochure, page 3.


Sales Brochure, page 4.


SP(L)310
Service Manual

Sales Brochure, page 1.


SP(L)311.
Service Manual

Sales Brochure, page 2.


SP310 Datsun Roadster.
Sales Brochure for the 1964, Datsun Fairlady Sports/Roadster.


Steering column assembly detail.


310 rear brake detail.


311 rear brake detail.


SP310 Wiring Diagram.


Steering wheel details.


Parts Manual for SP310 shows hardware required for heater pipes.


Tube Fitting Chart.


Location of SRL311 [U20] temperature sender.


Vacuum port on twin carbs. The distributor MUST have a PORTED vacuum signal for the advance mechanism.


Drill and Tap Chart comes in handy for restoring threads on SAE and ISO cars.


200B Headlamp wiring diagram.


U20 timing marks.


Brake drum #1700 is suitable for Roadster REAR brakes. The centre hole needs to be enlarged if fitted to the front hubs.


Drum details showing legend for Table.


LHD brake switch location.


Mikuni/Solex carburettors and manifold.


SP311/1600 carburettors.


SU carburettors and manifold.


L series emissions detail


L series emissions plumbing.


SP311 carburettor and coolant lines for heater.


U20 engine showing heater and manifold coolant hose routing.


Oil pump and distributor drive.


U20 crank pulley extraction threads.

Heater option.
Late 310 and early 311 heater option.

windshield base trim
windshield base trim.jpg 2008-05-02


12V relay pin outs.

SP310 windshield parts
SP310 windshield parts.jpg 2008-05-02

rotor dims
rotor dims.jpg 2008-05-03

Power feed revised
Power feed revised.jpg 2008-05-03

Vacuum connections
Vacuum connections.jpg 2008-05-04

Cartridge filter parts
Cartridge filter parts.jpg 2008-05-10

horn wiring
horn wiring.jpg 2008-05-11


SU parts and Distributor Vacuum Advance port.

Vacuum advance
Vacuum advance.jpg 2008-05-15

Shock detail
Shock detail.jpg 2008-05-20

Front end
Front end.jpg 2008-05-20

door stop.jpg
door stop.jpg 2008-05-26

610 alternator connections.jpg
610 alternator connections.jpg 2008-06-02

610 Alternator test.jpg
610 Alternator test.jpg 2008-06-03

610 Voltage regulator
610 Voltage regulator.jpg 2008-06-03

610 Alternator specs.jpg
610 Alternator specs.jpg 2008-06-03

Stupid thread
Stupid thread.jpg 2008-06-04

BJS-1.JPG
BJS-1.JPG 2008-06-04

CA18ET oil pump test
CA18ET oil pump test.jpg 2008-06-09

ca18ET oil pressure data
ca18ET oil pressure data.jpg 2008-06-09

CA18DET engine
CA18DET engine.jpg 2008-06-14

datsun_paintcodes
datsun_paintcodes.jpg 2008-06-15

L 4 cylinder Lubrication circuit
L 4 cylinder Lubrication circuit.jpg 2008-06-20

L4 lubrication path engine
L4 lubrication path engine.jpg 2008-06-20

L 4 cylinder lubrication path001
L 4 cylinder lubrication path001.jpg 2008-06-20

Fairlady 1500001
Fairlady 1500001.jpg 2008-07-07

Fairlady 1500002
Fairlady 1500002.jpg 2008-07-07

Fairlady 1500003
Fairlady 1500003.jpg 2008-07-07

Fairlady 1500004
Fairlady 1500004.jpg 2008-07-07

Fairlady 1500005
Fairlady 1500005.jpg 2008-07-07

Fairlady 1500006
Fairlady 1500006.jpg 2008-07-07

Fairlady 1500007
Fairlady 1500007.jpg 2008-07-07

Fairlady 1500008
Fairlady 1500008.jpg 2008-07-07

1970-av.jpg
1970-av.jpg 2009-01-18

1970flank.jpg
1970flank.jpg 2009-01-18

Citroen 001.jpg
I am restoring some engine shrouds for Michael. The Citroen GS has a 4 cylinder air cooled 1200cc engine. The air shrouds are to be de-rusted and finished in gloss black. Here is the large shroud before media blasting.

Citroen 008.jpg
The main shroud has been stripped of old paint and media blasted. It will get another blast because the grit I'm using is nearly worn out and is almost ineffective.

Citroen 003.jpg
The engine side of the main shroud will be more difficult to strip but by using a combination of Paint Stripper and media blasting it should come up sweet.

Citroen 009.jpg
First attempt on the engine side. With some fresh media, I'll re-do this piece and try to remove all of the oxidation.

Citroen 002.jpg
These two ducts enclose the inlet manifolds and need to be stripped back to bare metal.

Citroen 004.jpg
The engine side of the ducts is mainly surface rust, easily removed.

Citroen 007.jpg
The duct covers have been media blasted and are now ready for a good scrub with a 3M scourer and Metal Prep. to passivate any remaining oxidation.

Citroen 005.jpg
This is a mounting ring for the blower fan and will need to be paint stripped and blasted.

Citroen 006.jpg
The flip side of the mount.

Citroen 010.jpg
I have applied Wattyl killrust Rust-Eeeter to the inside of the shroud...

Citroen 011.jpg
...and to the seams of all the pressings and ducts. This stuff turns black as it converts the rust, iron oxide, to iron phosphate.

Citroen 012.jpg
Entire shroud has been treated with Rust Eeter

Citroen 013.jpg
It was fun treating the inside, much difficulty in reaching into all the corners, nooks and crannies.

Citroen 014.jpg
The inside has now been coated with Primer. It dries very quickly but settles out reasonably smooth.

Citroen 015.jpg
I will probably spray the outside surface. Never sprayed this Primer before so it could be interesting.

Citroen 016.jpg
Well, that wasn't so hard! The Primer is thinned with Methylated Spirits and at 40psi went on really easily. Sometimes I surprise even myself.

Citroen 018.jpg
The rear came up great. I was expecting it be difficult with all those flaps and ducts, but it went fine.

Citroen 017.jpg
At this rate I might have the topcoat on by the weekend.

Citroen 019.jpg
Only item left to prime is the fan mounting ring, everything else is done.

Citroen 021.jpg
Well, there's the finished item. 3 coats of Gloss Black and a mist coat to the inside. Actually the inside got covered quite well considering I couldn't get the gun right in there.

Citroen 022.jpg
Reverse side. All the flaps and ducts have come up really well.

Citroen 020.jpg
The bottom two ducts will get another coat but the fan mounting ring is done.

IMG_1917.JPG
A cute little 2CV at the Autumn Festival Grand Parade at Arrowtown, N.Z.

IMG_1866.JPG
We didn't eat at the Bonjour Restaurant but I'm sure it would have been delightful food.

Citroen 023.jpg
Here is the next bit to be renovated. The inlet manifold and runners are to get the media blaster and a paint job where applicable

Citroen 025.jpg
The alloy plenum has studs to suit the OEM Weber downdraft. The Weber is worn so temporarily we are going to fit a Hitachi carb. from an Nissan 1200.

Citroen 028.jpg
Here is the alloy adaptor to convert the Weber stud pattern to the Hitachi

Citroen 029.jpg
The adaptor plate will be fastened to the plenum with 4 x countersunk stainless steel screws. Conveniently, there are alloy bosses present on the plenum to use.

Citroen 027.jpg
Here you can see the boss that I will thread for the screw. Unfortunately, the OEM stud holes and those required by the Hitachi overlapped so I have gone this route.

Citroen 026.jpg
Top view shows the plenum ready to have the adaptor mounting holes drilled and tapped.

Citroen.jpg
Here is the underside view of the adaptor and the Hitachi carb. Until/unless we get the Weber to work, this will have to do.

Citroen 031.jpg
Here is the plenum showing the 4 original threaded holes. These will be unused and hidden under the adaptor. The 4 new threaded holes to clamp the adaptor in place have been done.

Citroen 030.jpg
The completed adaptor mounted to the plenum. With a custom gasket and some sealant, job done!

Citroen 032.jpg
Inlet runners and plenum have been given the massage with garnet sand.

Citroen 033.jpg
The plenum will be left as is. I will prep. and paint the runners with Gloss Black Engine paint.

Citroen 035.jpg
Here's the finished article. Adapter is fastened to the plenum with 4 counter sunk screws with a gasket in between.

Citroen 037.jpg
There are also new gaskets for the joins of the runners to the plenum.

Citroen 036.jpg
Time to mount the carb. and see if it will run!

Citroen 039.jpg
Next little job is refurbishing the four cam covers. Inlets are on the LHS, exhaust on the RHS. The factory finish is zinc coating but as you can see there is a measure of corrosion to deal with first.

Citroen 042.jpg
Cam covers have been de-rusted, de-greased and given a coat of Zinc Primer.

Citroen.jpg
Cam covers finished. They have had a generous coating of bright silver to restore that as plated look.

Surge tank and fuel pump setup. A stainless steel camping mug was just the right capacity for the job.
Surge tank and fuel pump setup. A stainless steel camping mug was just the right capacity for the job. 2007-09-08

Closeup of bracket used to adapt Mazda RX7 callipers to 200B strut.
Closeup of bracket used to adapt Mazda RX7 callipers to 200B strut. 2007-05-16

The adaptor is machined from a solid block of 20mm stock.The two pads that the calliper mounts to and the mounting surfa
The adaptor is machined from a solid block of 20mm stock.The two pads that the calliper mounts to and the mounting surfa

The calliper mounting ears on the strut are cleaned up slightly to remove the excess factory casting.
The calliper mounting ears on the strut are cleaned up slightly to remove the excess factory casting. 2007-05-16

The base of the adaptor is profiled to clear the curved casting on the bottom of the strut.
The base of the adaptor is profiled to clear the curved casting on the bottom of the strut. 2007-05-16

Torana tension control rod shows factory threaded adjustment with locknut.
Torana tension control rod shows factory threaded adjustment with locknut. 2003-04-24

Typical brake Master Cylinder showing the Residual Pressure Valve (RPV) for rear drums. This valve should be removed whe
Typical brake Master Cylinder showing the Residual Pressure Valve (RPV) for rear drums. This valve should be removed whe

The little sucker in all its' glory.If left in the rear circuit it will cause the rear pads to drag, overheat and w
The little sucker in all its' glory.If left in the rear circuit it will cause the rear pads to drag, overheat and w

Throttles are 32mm diam. runners are ~150mm long.
Throttles are 32mm diam. runners are ~150mm long. 2007-09-08

Manifold is port matched to the FJ20 head.
Manifold is port matched to the FJ20 head. 2007-09-08


My new ram tubes. Spun aluminium trumpet which is actually a Monumental Vase, you know, a flower vase for a grave!!!!


Wheels are 15 x 6JJ 30P R31 Skyline.Tyres are 205/50 R15 Yokohama A539.

To avoid the tyre contacting and rubbing on full lock some subtle clearancing was done.Chassis rail flange bent UP at re
To avoid the tyre contacting and rubbing on full lock some subtle clearancing was done.Chassis rail flange bent UP at re

Rim offset and tyre dimensions are just right to avoid tyre rubbing on the radius rod at full lock.While all this is rea
Rim offset and tyre dimensions are just right to avoid tyre rubbing on the radius rod at full lock.While all this is rea

Sway bar link made from a 145mm L series head bolt.Unbreakable!
Sway bar link made from a 145mm L series head bolt.Unbreakable! 2007-04-18

RHS view of 200B column switches.
RHS view of 200B column switches. 2007-09-08

LHS view of 200B column switches.
LHS view of 200B column switches. 2007-09-08

Ignition switch is located in the correct position by a custom steel strap clamped to the switch and column.
Ignition switch is located in the correct position by a custom steel strap clamped to the switch and column. 2007-09-08

Goodyear data sheet showing approved rim fitments for tyres.
Goodyear data sheet showing approved rim fitments for tyres. 2007-09-08

View of Datsun Sunny centre consol and Stanza centre handbrake.
View of Datsun Sunny centre consol and Stanza centre handbrake. 2007-09-08

My car in the paddock at Mallala Motorsport Park north of Adelaide.Our 1600 Club spent the day doing 5 lap sprints to be
My car in the paddock at Mallala Motorsport Park north of Adelaide.Our 1600 Club spent the day doing 5 lap sprints to be

Engine bay showing snug fit.Engine is a normally aspirated Nissan FJ20 from a 1983 DR30 Skyline.Engine management is by
Engine bay showing snug fit.Engine is a normally aspirated Nissan FJ20 from a 1983 DR30 Skyline.Engine management is by

On the LHS is the remote brake fluid reservoir.Battery has been re-located to the boot.
On the LHS is the remote brake fluid reservoir.Battery has been re-located to the boot. 2007-10-11

Standard radiator tanks fitted with a 3 row core, expansion tank and thermo-electric fan. Commodore air filter box with
Standard radiator tanks fitted with a 3 row core, expansion tank and thermo-electric fan. Commodore air filter box with

Datsun 810/200B brake booster.
200B brake booster. 2003-01-03

Fluid lines from the brake master cylinder.Aluminium strap mounted on Master cylinder retains fluid connectors in the re
Fluid lines from the brake master cylinder.Aluminium strap mounted on Master cylinder retains fluid connectors in the re

Booster spacer was trimmed down to allow vacuum tank to slide in behind strut tower.
Booster spacer was trimmed down to allow vacuum tank to slide in behind strut tower. 2003-01-03

Another view of the snug brake booster fitting. This was the largest direct action booster I could fit, anything bigger
Another view of the snug brake booster fitting. This was the largest direct action booster I could fit, anything bigger

The pieces trimmed off the spacer were used inside the cabin on the booster mounting studs.
The pieces trimmed off the spacer were used inside the cabin on the booster mounting studs. 2003-01-03

Head on view of the vented front rotors and Mazda Series 4 RX7 4 piston calipers.
Head on view of the vented front rotors and Mazda Series 4 RX7 4 piston calipers. 2007-10-11

Inside the wheel arch showing wood mockup of caliper mounting bracket.
Inside the wheel arch showing wood mockup of caliper mounting bracket. 2007-10-11

Final prototype after all clearances and dimensions were double checked.[Rotors are from a 94 - 97 VW Golf 2.8 VR6 Mk3,
Final prototype after all clearances and dimensions were double checked.[Rotors are from a 94 - 97 VW Golf 2.8 VR6 Mk3,

Final instalation of LHS conversion.
Final instalation of LHS conversion. 2007-10-11

View showing minimum "hat" dimension of the rotor. This allowed caliper mounting bracket to be custom machined
View showing minimum "hat" dimension of the rotor. This allowed caliper mounting bracket to be custom machined

Rear disc conversion. All hardware was donated from the Australian R31 Skyline.
Rear disc conversion. All hardware was donated from the Australian R31 Skyline. 2007-10-11

Disc rotors were exactly the same thickness as the original drums. Note also the hand brake cable attachment.
Disc rotors were exactly the same thickness as the original drums. Note also the hand brake cable attachment. 2007-10-11

View showing the caliper mount and fluid hose arrangement.
View showing the caliper mount and fluid hose arrangement. 2007-10-11

View with disc rotor removed.I removed the stub axles to fit the caliper mounting bracket and replaced the rear wheel be
View with disc rotor removed.I removed the stub axles to fit the caliper mounting bracket and replaced the rear wheel be

Inside view of the rear disc conversion.Minimal re-routing of the rigid fluid line was required to mate up with the flex
Inside view of the rear disc conversion.Minimal re-routing of the rigid fluid line was required to mate up with the flex

View of the engine prior to reassembly. Note extended oil pick up tube(the section between the white marks).
View of the engine prior to reassembly. Note extended oil pick up tube(the section between the white marks). 2007-10-11

Top side of engine prior to head replacement.
Top side of engine prior to head replacement. 2007-10-11

Cylinder head after reconditioning. Head gasket had blown and #4 cylinder was taking in coolant.Minor coolant passage we
Cylinder head after reconditioning. Head gasket had blown and #4 cylinder was taking in coolant.Minor coolant passage we

Top view of reconditioned cylinder head.
Top view of reconditioned cylinder head. 2007-10-11

Modified FJ20 sump to move bowl to the rear. That then allows the sump to clear the unmodified engine crossmember.
Modified FJ20 sump to move bowl to the rear. That then allows the sump to clear the unmodified engine crossmember. 2007-

Weld lines are shown in white.
Weld lines are shown in white. 2007-10-11

More surgery, achieved with an angle grinder then oxy welded back together.
More surgery, achieved with an angle grinder then oxy welded back together. 2007-10-11

New dip tube required to sample the relocated sump bowl and to clear exhaust manifold.
New dip tube required to sample the relocated sump bowl and to clear exhaust manifold. 2007-10-11


cam timing 001


cam timing 002

FJ20 plug leads.jpg
FJ20 plug leads.jpg 2008-03-07

510 body 11.jpg
510 body 11.jpg 2008-03-09

cam timing b.jpg
cam timing b.jpg 2008-03-31

cam timing c.jpg
cam timing c.jpg 2008-03-31

cam timing a.jpg
cam timing a.jpg 2008-03-31

cam timing d.jpg
cam timing d.jpg 2008-03-31

measure-offset.jpg
measure-offset.jpg 2008-04-01

tech-wheelterms.jpg
tech-wheelterms.jpg 2008-04-01

Bbird tap
Bbird tap.JPG 2005-02-21

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Well, here it is, my new daily transport.This Ute was up for auction on eBay. Build date is 12/84.

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Essentially, the damage is restricted to the front LH corner, which has been folded back almost to the tyre.

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The LHS door has also got a large dent in it from the accident impact.

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Interior is fairly ordinary, but it is all there and it is factory stock, no 6" tacho or boost gauge!

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Tray is fair, a few little rust outs and dents, nothing major.

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Front view shows the damage to be mainly replaceable panels, i.e. the front apron and the LHS guard.

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Wheels are from a Pulsar ET FWD, therefore they have a LOT of positive offset.

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Engine is the stocker, Nissan A12.1200cc of raw power!

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The engine bay looks reasonable, however stay tuned!Up till now the pics. were those provided by the seller and were attached to the ebay sale posting.

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Well I've got him home now so I'll get started on the repairs.Closeup of the damage shows that the impact missed any major structural panels.

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The bumper is twisted like a pretzel.At this stage I reckon I can re-use the guard with a little help from the Panel Beating Gods. The front valance is not worth trying to repair.

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Fortunately, the panels are nowhere near the tyre so it was still drive-able. Borrowed some Trade Plates from some friends, hot wired the damaged ignition wiring and drove it home!

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Behind the LHS headlight you can just see a wrinkle in the junction of the radiator panel and the wheel arch panel. Easy fix.

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From this angle you can see that it was a good accident, no structural damage at all.

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OK, so we are now minus the bumper and plastic grille. The grille was fractured at the very top of the passenger side headlamp. Easily glued back together with some fibreglass filler.

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Broke off a few fasteners along the top of the guard but all others were able to be unscrewed OK.A little dried up Australian soil on top of the wheel arch pressing, but NO RUST!

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Radiator panel needs to be massaged to straighten it up.

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Here you can see the radiator panel has been swept back from the impact. No drama here, a gentle pull in the right direction and all will be well again.

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Other side was similar, very little crud, virtually ZERO rust!

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Comparison of the two bumper brackets, LHS bracket (on the right in the pic.) is bent like a banana! Note the Nissan part number sticker. Methinks that these may have been replaced before.

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However, I've got a good one to copy so I'll be straightening out the banana to re-use.

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After a wee bit of massaging, the LHS bumper mount now faithfully resembles the undamaged RHS.

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Now for a cleanup and a fresh coat of paint and you wouldn't know.


Typical rustout at the extreme corner of the passenger side windshield plenum.

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Passenger side did not appear to be very bad, but, you can see how the layers of metal are quite sad.I'll cut some more rotten bits out and re-build the area from the inside out.

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All the flanges have been cut off, time for some fresh metal.

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First layer done.

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Second layer cut to shape.

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Second layer done.

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Third layer tried out for size and shape.

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Third layer done. The area is now back to full strength.

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Managed to curve the gutter around the corner just like the original panel.There are three plug welds along the third layer to fix it to the other repair.

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A little filler required here although there isn't the same raised area for the ADR plate that the drivers side area has for the I.D. plate.

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That looks like it will come up OK.

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ADR plate mounting holes done, waiting for primer to dry.

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Turned out AOK after all that cutting, shutting and massaging.

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Drivers side is slightly worse. A little surgery will be done to remove the damaged metal and patch the air box.

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Rust out has been removed from drivers side of the plenum area.Three sheets of body steel come together at this point, two were OK but the plenum panel was trashed.

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That is about all I need to remove.

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First layer was OK, second layer has been patched. Cut the hole a bit bigger to make sure the parent metal is nice and clean and thick.

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Third layer patch checked for size and shape. A little tweaking with some pliers gave the shape necessary for the raised area where the I.D. plate is mounted.

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Drivers side plenum repair has had all welds tidied up and a wipe of body filler to repair the sunken weld seam.

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Repair has been etch primed and had one coat of primer/surfacer.There are a few scratches to fill but, overall, the repair turned out fine.

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Getting close to top coat. I.D. plate mounting holes are drilled and all lumps and bumps have been sanded out. A little seam sealer will be applied around the lower edge to seal the plenum from the engine bay.

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There we are, as good as new!

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Decided to do a complete brake job while it was laid up. New shoes and machined drums all round. Wheel cylinders looked OK on the rear but the front cylinders were leaking badly. Replaced by brand new units.

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Interior has been gutted, de-greased and washed with detergent. It was full of gray fluff, dried grass and a few unmentionable female type items. Ewwwwwww!

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I fitted a genuine Tachometer in place of the non-functioning clock.

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Here are my new seats fitted. They are from a Skyline and have exactly the same footprint as the original seats. However due to the thick padding, they have reduced the driver area to being a bit squeezy! Door has been removed to show the t

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Needed some new brackets to mount the rails at the 40cm spacing that the old seats were at. Although the drivers seat has rake adjustment, and fore aft adjustment, the seat can only be left on the aft setting or I wouldn't fit in!

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After cleaning off the remains of the front apron, the drivers side has a few little holes to be welded up. The location of the apron mounting tabs needed patching.

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The drivers side headlamp area has been repaired previously.

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Passenger side is a little worse. It has a few tears and rust outs, probably caused by the stress of the bingle. Bottom apron mount needed patching as well.

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There is evidence of a previous repair behind the headlamp hole. Plus, the grille I removed is a Made In Taiwan item. Methinks the ute had a front ender in a previous life!

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A little surgery to remove the torn up area. Fresh metal here will make it a lot easier to fit the new front apron.

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Patch for the passenger side tacked in position.

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Drivers side "A" pillar and wheel arch have had a wee bit of seam sealer added in some critical areas, etch primed and ready for top coat.

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Both doors had a rusty area underneath the door hinges. I buffed the area with the 3M wheel to remove all rust.

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Same story for the passenger door. The factory paints this area with the hinges in place so there was quite a large area without protection.

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Wheel arch on the passenger side, all prepped up ready for the topcoat.

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The door hinges have been media blasted, prepped, etch primed, top coated, lubed up and re-bushed.The two door check springs fell apart so I guess I'll have to do without.

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Drivers side headlamp area was repaired with filler rod, new patches for the bottom apron tags are done.

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Lower half of the radiator panel has been stripped with Automotive Paint Stripper and is now ready for a good buffing with the 3m Clean'n'Strip wheel to remove any surface rust.

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Now that looks a bit better. Radiator panel has been etch primed, then given a couple of coats of semi-gloss black. Should be worth a couple of extra Horse Power!

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At last! a trial fit of all the front end panels. I decided to mount the apron with 5 x 6mm fasteners in lieu of self tapping screws. I certainly didn't want to weld it in place.

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Reproduction apron needed a little modification at the bottom guard mounting tabs.The two bottom holes were nowhere near where they were needed.

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Received my new, re-production front indicators. Well, trying to fit re-pro parts to re-pro parts gives problems! Mounting holes in the wrong places etc.

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After much adjustment and a little cussing, lamps finally in what I think is the right position.

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With the apron back on, front indicators look AOK.

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Now to massage the damaged LHS guard back into shape. I have stripped the paint off the "A" side and chipped of the anti-drum coating from the "B" side.

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Guard has been gently massaged with hammer and dolly to correct the creases formed by the accident impact. Steel has been roughed up in preparation for a skim coat of body filler.

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As it turned out, I didn't need very much to smooth out the wrinkles. My panel beating must be improving!

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This is what I started with, remember?

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I think I've massaged this guard enough. I can't afford to spend any more time on it.

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Well, it's nice and white and the gloss is reasonable. It will need a bit of buffing to bring up a nice finish.

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This guard had mainly battle scars, no accident damage. I believe this is a repro guard, it has no anti-drum coating on the "B" side whereas the LH guard did.

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Just as white and looking good.

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Can't say that was much fun. All the shipping primer has been stripped from the front apron, both front and rear. Now for some REAL etch primer!

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Might be fitting these wheels, the offset is suitable to a RWD. The front wheels no longer require spacers.

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Won't be long now and I won't have to drive the Shopping Trolley around (Hehehehehe!).

Caliper mounting bracket-1
Caliper mounting and spacer bracket drawing.

brkt-3
Calliper bracket and spacer separated.

brkt-1
Calliper bracket with spacer attached.

brkt-2
Calliper bracket, reverse side.

cal&brkt-1
Calliper mounted onto bracket and spacer.

cal&brkt-2
View of calliper from suspension side.

cal&brkt-3
View of calliper from wheel side.

clpd_calliper
Closeup of calliper, wheel side view.

Rear strut-2
View of calliper and spacer bracket mounted on suspension strut, from suspension side.

Rear strut-1
View of calliper and spacer bracket mounted on suspension strut, from wheel side.

Rear strut-3
Closeup of wheel side view.

Rear strut-4
Rear view of RHS suspension strut and wheel. Calliper has a few mm clearance to the strut tube.

h-brake cable and bracket
Custom right angled handbrake cable bracket. Mounts to two threaded holes which were for the factory brake hose anchor.

Another rotisserie in the making for a fellow Zed enthusiast.WARNINGThis rotor is suitable for a BARE SHELL ONLY!!NO doo
Another rotisserie in the making for a fellow Zed enthusiast.WARNINGThis rotor is suitable for a BARE SHELL ONLY!!NO doo

End frame design drawing.The two end frames are tied to a fixed length by a pair of rigid tubes.These can be adjusted to
End frame design drawing.The two end frames are tied to a fixed length by a pair of rigid tubes.These can be adjusted to

The two end frames partially completed.
The two end frames partially completed. 2004-01-07

I have only tacked welded the frames pending a MIG job courtesy of a neighbour.
I have only tacked welded the frames pending a MIG job courtesy of a neighbour. 2004-01-07

One end frame complete with diagonal bracing.
One end frame complete with diagonal bracing. 2004-01-07

3mm plate welded in to mount the caster wheels.
3mm plate welded in to mount the caster wheels. 2004-01-18

Basic framework for the hub mount. The rear of the 3mm top platform has been re-inforced with a section of 3mm angle iro
Basic framework for the hub mount. The rear of the 3mm top platform has been re-inforced with a section of 3mm angle iro

The hub slips into the cradle on the top platform, using the brake backing plate 10mm threaded holes for mounting.Make s
The hub slips into the cradle on the top platform, using the brake backing plate 10mm threaded holes for mounting.Make s

Locking plate design drawing.NOTE 1. Locking pin holes are to suit a 9mm Nissan headbolt.NOTE 2. Mounting holes are to s
Locking plate design drawing.NOTE 1. Locking pin holes are to suit a 9mm Nissan headbolt.NOTE 2. Mounting holes are to s

This is the lock plate in construction. It is 210mm in diameter and cut from 3mm plate. The centre hole needs to be cut
This is the lock plate in construction. It is 210mm in diameter and cut from 3mm plate. The centre hole needs to be cut

The centre hole was achieved by using a 20mm hole saw on every other radial line. The remaining metal was removed with a
The centre hole was achieved by using a 20mm hole saw on every other radial line. The remaining metal was removed with a

Close up of hub mounted with locking plate clamped in position.A drum brake hub is used and the backing plate threaded h
Close up of hub mounted with locking plate clamped in position.A drum brake hub is used and the backing plate threaded h

The washers will not be required when the body frame is attached. Locking plate is clamped to the hub using genuine Niss
The washers will not be required when the body frame is attached. Locking plate is clamped to the hub using genuine Niss

Lock plate mounted on the hub.
Lock plate mounted on the hub. 2004-01-18

This is to be the locking pin for the plate. Datsun enthusiasts will recognise the locking pin as an "L" serie
This is to be the locking pin for the plate. Datsun enthusiasts will recognise the locking pin as an "L" serie

The plate has been marked with radial lines and a circle for the locking pin hole locations.
The plate has been marked with radial lines and a circle for the locking pin hole locations. 2004-01-18

Revised locking pin arrangement. I have added a 20mm square tube close to the locking disc to relieve the pin of excessi
Revised locking pin arrangement. I have added a 20mm square tube close to the locking disc to relieve the pin of excessi

Locking pin (Nissan 9mm head bolt) engages the disc by approx. 10mm.The 3mm thick locking plate provides for positive en
Locking pin (Nissan 9mm head bolt) engages the disc by approx. 10mm.The 3mm thick locking plate provides for positive en

The holes in the locking disc needed to be enlarged slightly to allow correct engagement of the pin.It all depends on hi
The holes in the locking disc needed to be enlarged slightly to allow correct engagement of the pin.It all depends on hi

Pin is spring loaded, so it will automatically engage the next locking hole when the jig is rotated.With the car body ba
Pin is spring loaded, so it will automatically engage the next locking hole when the jig is rotated.With the car body ba

The two end frames are now fastened together for easy transport.
The two end frames are now fastened together for easy transport. 2004-01-25

The four 100mm caster wheels are temporarily bolted to the base plates allowing easy transporting to a MIG welder.
The four 100mm caster wheels are temporarily bolted to the base plates allowing easy transporting to a MIG welder. 2004-

Rear body to jig adapters.These are made out of Uni-Strut and have captive threaded blocks inside the channel.You slide
Rear body to jig adapters.These are made out of Uni-Strut and have captive threaded blocks inside the channel.You slide

Front body to jig adapters.The 240Z has some holes in the shell to mate up with the Uni-Strut brackets.Once the shell is
Front body to jig adapters.The 240Z has some holes in the shell to mate up with the Uni-Strut brackets.Once the shell is

Shell all mounted.The "sweet spot" for the front pivot is ~100mm below the top of the radiator support panel.Y
Shell all mounted.The "sweet spot" for the front pivot is ~100mm below the top of the radiator support panel.Y

Closeup of the shell at 90deg.With a ~1.2M radius, the shell can be fully rotated in a garage with a ceiling height of 6
Closeup of the shell at 90deg.With a ~1.2M radius, the shell can be fully rotated in a garage with a ceiling height of 6

You can clearly see the front mounting arrangement and locking plate from this pic.
You can clearly see the front mounting arrangement and locking plate from this pic. 2007-09-08

The "sweet spot" for the rear pivot is ~100mm below the hatch lip.
The "sweet spot" for the rear pivot is ~100mm below the hatch lip. 2007-09-08

End frames. The platforms and short legs are removeable from the uprights .


Height adjusting nut.


Full size marking and drilling template for the Locking Plate.


Locking plate clamped in position. The spring loaded lock pin engages the plate by 10mm.


The hub is bolted to two uprights which are welded to angle iron feet. The feet are then bolted to the top platform.


Lock pin is spring loaded. It will engage the lockplate every 22.5deg of rotation. The hub is from a drum brake strut.


Rear view of the "control" hub.


Detail of the lock pin engagement in the locking plate. Lock pin is a Nissan "L" Series engine head bolt.


Parts have been given a coat of etch primer for protection.


Here is the control hub. Front pivot centre is 190mm from bottom of apron.


Front frame has allowance to slide down extra 200mm. This will allow front guards to be fitted with load still balanced.


Front legs have a removeable diagonal brace. It can be on the underside to clear the apron when the guards are fitted.


Underside of the front frame. Existing chassis mount holes are used with 3" x 1/2" fasteners.


Rear hub mounted on the top platform. No locking plate required, just the angle adaptors for the rear frame.


Rear frame has vertical adjustment for centre of gravity. Rear pivot centre is 100mm from bottom of apron.


Rear legs have removeable diagonal brace. Spacers used give 15mm clearance to lower edge of rear apron.


Underside of rear frame. Existing chassis mount holes are used. 40mm spacer welded to the leg, 20mm spacer at the bolt.


Detail of rear leg spacers. 40mm spacer prevents the leg from contacting rear apron.


That is a lot better! I can now spin her around with one hand to get to all the repairs that need doing!


Access is very good. Rotor is quite stable, no problems evident. Very little load on the locking pin so balance is good.


You can see the rear wheel arch will contact the leg. I need to swap the legs over, the front one is shorter.


This is the short leg, now re-located at the rear. Plenty of clearance to the body now and a full 360deg. possible.


The pivots are 900mm from the floor. That allows 120mm clearance body to floor when the body is on its side.


Great access to the floor repairs now!

Skyline Nationals Show and Shine 110910 001.jpg
Skyline Nationals Show and Shine 110910 001.jpg 2010-09-11

Skyline Nationals Show and Shine 110910 002.jpg
Skyline Nationals Show and Shine 110910 002.jpg 2010-09-11

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This is a NISSAN CUBE import.
License plate was "RUBIK"

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Engine Room of my first car. I bought new and still have, a 1971 Datsun 1600 [P510] 4 door sedan. The original engine was removed and an FJ20E was fitted. WHAT a DIFFERENCE! love the torque of the engine and the 5 speed transmission was also a quantum leap. Did all the conversion work myself. This album describes how to cut and shut the stock FJ20 sump to allow the engine to fit into the P510 engine bay. I figured it was far easier to play with a tin sump than root around reversing the front crossmember etc. I have done the same surgery to the sump on an RB25DE engine to fit it to my 1973 240Z.

Sump jig.jpg
Sump jig made from 50mm x 5mm angle.

Sump jig 003.jpg
Sump jig underside.

Sump conversion001.jpg
FJ20 sump lined up with L16 sump, front to the RHS. L16 has "bowl at rear" to accommodate the P510 engine crossmember.

Sump conversion002.jpg
Bowl of FJ20 sump removed.

Sump conversion004.jpg
Removed portions re-positioned and tack welded in place.

Sump conversion005.jpg
Filler strip inserted to make up for material removed with the angle grinder cutting blade.

Sump conversion006.jpg
Welding finished and external welds ground smooth.

Sump conversion007.jpg
Finished sump alongside the original L16 sump.

Sump conversion008.jpg
Stock FJ20 oil pickup and pipe.

Sump conversion009.jpg
Extended FJ20 oil pickup showing new mount used on centre main bearing.

Oil pickup extension.jpg
Another view of the extended oil pickup tube, marked in white paint pen.

Side view instructions.jpg
Side view instructions.jpg 2009-11-25

Side view 2.JPG
The new dipstick tube is designed to appear at a convenient location, forward of the exhaust manifold.

Plan view 2.jpg
Plan view 2.jpg 2009-11-25

Side view.JPG
Side view.JPG 2009-11-25

Top view.JPG
Top view.JPG 2009-11-25

Side view 1.JPG
Side view 1.JPG 2009-11-25

Plan view 1.jpg
Plan view 1.jpg 2009-11-25

FJ20 sump rear section.jpg
FJ20 sump rear section.jpg 2009-11-25

FJ20 sump centre section.jpg
FJ20 sump centre section.jpg 2009-11-25

FJ20 sump front section.jpg
FJ20 sump front section.jpg 2009-11-25

See next image for caption.





See next image for caption.





Rear view.


Inside/top view.


Inside/rear view.


See next image for caption.





View of the handbrake/emergency brake shoes.


The entry for the handbrake cable is the tube forward of the axle.


See next image for caption.





See next image for caption.

caption 10.jpg
caption 10.jpg 2007-11-05


This view shows the separate handbrake entry tube which is clamped under two of the circular backing plate fasteners.


See next image for caption.

Here is the Wisconsin at home. While largely complete, it has a few "farm" modifications that will need to be undone. You can see the electric starter conversion and safety shield which will be removed.


A larger fuel tank has been fitted using custom brackets. Fortunately, pop rivets were used which are easily drilled out. The little trolley will be handy to move it about during dismantling. Note that there is no fuel strainer, something else I will have to source.


At some stage the air intake was broken and the original aluminium tube has been cobbled to a tapered tube fitted to the carb. intake. Missing is the air cleaner and the top tin section on the air shroud.


Started to remove the modifications. The flex plate for the electric start will be a challenge to remove. The engine has plenty of compression and the Magneto puts out a hefty spark.


The output shaft hub has a set screw which clamps into the shaft channel.After loosening it off the hub was relatively easy to pull with a 3 leg gear puller.


The original Wisconsin engine data plate is all but illegible, however the Model [AEH], Bore X Stroke [3 X 3 1/4], Engine Number [1522292] and Specification [50295] are stamped and are still readable. As near as I can figure, the engine was manufactured in 1942, so it is 8 years older than I.


Now that I have the flywheel, base plate and air shroud off I can have a good look at the internals. Nice and clean at least!


Valve inspection hole shows everything in its' place.


I made up a simple puller from a short length of U iron to ease the flywheel off. Being on a taper, once you get it moving it simply falls off.


Bottom end looks nice and clean. No obvious damage to any of the gears.


This is where all the sludge and junk is at. Not unexpected but at least there was no evidence of metal in the oil.


I have started treating the rusty bits in preparation for etch priming. I use a preparation from Wattyl called "Killrust Rust-Eeter". It converts any rust to a black Iron Phosphate coating which is inert. Then I apply a special Killrust primer before spraying the top coat. The flywheel and drive pulley will be treated the same way. All other parts will be media blasted then etch primed.


The engine shroud has been stripped of the Gold & Orange top coats as well as the factory primer. There is some surface rust evident but it will be easily treated.


The lower mounting tabs fractured at some point and there is evidence of repairs there. Similarly, there is a fracture in the tin at the curved section at the cylinder head end which will have to be welded up.


Secondary engine data plate placed there by the Australian Distributor, Tutt-Bryant. Badge engineering in 1942?


I have started to strip the paint from the crankcase in preparation for a nice fresh coat. I use a chemical stripper to clean as much off as I can. Then I media blast the metal before painting. The less paint left on the metal before media blasting, the better, otherwise the media gets contaminated with ineffective debris. The inspection plates have been replaced on the engine to give some measure of protection when I wash the engine down with water. The inside has been dosed up with WD-40 to protect the bright metal.


Here's is the flywheel side coated with the paint stripper. I use a product called CITRISTRIP, a citrus based biodegradable stripper. It stays wet for 24 hours allowing you to agitate the coating many times to remove baked on paint. I usually use a stainless wire brush to scrub off the residue, then a hose off with a garden hose. I managed to remove the rusted out exhaust pipe and you can see the new replacement in the manifold. I was surprised to find I could remove every fastener without any breakages, simply by spraying with WD-40 and leaving it to soak for a while, even the old exhaust pipe.


These are the parts that I am missing to make the engine original. The top shroud, P/N is easily replicated but the remaining parts will have to be genuine.


The aluminium air intake has suffered damage at the carb. intake end. Hopefully, I will able to source a replacement!


Here is a genuine issue Wisconsin Instruction book and parts list for the ADH, AE, AHH & AEHS series engines. It is a full publication of 89 pages so it will a valuable reference as well as a nice accessory to the engine.


I have managed to source a few genuine replacement parts:brand new replacement points for the WICO magneto ignition!


A NOS Champion D16 spark plug to suit the AEH. It was cheaper for me to buy one from an overseas vendor that buy any locally. I had to pay for four if I wanted one so it just wasn't economical.


A brand new WICO magneto cover gasket. I usually make my own gaskets but as you can see, the shape of this one is very intricate.


A United Specialties Oil Bath Air Cleaner which is the same Part Number for the Wisconsin as the Gravely Model # L Tractor! Even the remains of the decal are identical to that shown in the Wisconsin Parts Manual.


The throat diameter is a perfect fit onto the original alloy air tube. Once cleaned and repainted it will complete the air intake nicely!


Here is a 1" BSP muffler I have sourced. Since receiving this muffler, I have been able to remove the original muffler from the exhaust stack. Now I have a choice, a brand new replacement or the original for correctness.


This is cute, a replacement Wisconsin fuel strainer and tap. A tiny little item but essential for cleanliness and originality.


A well used Wisconsin Starter Crank which I was also missing from the engine. Surprisingly three of these bobbed up on e bay within a day or so of each other. One was a 1 1/16" shaft the other two were 1" shaft. I required the 1" shaft.


Some reproduction decals for the Wisconsin AEH. The Oil Bath Air Cleaner decal is identical to the one present on the used air cleaner I sourced.


Made some progress with the painting. Here are the flywheel, fan and output pulley all primed. The output pulley will probably be top coated with Gloss Black whilst the other two will be engine colour. I have some nice bright orange on order for the engine.


Another win on ebay, a fuel tank cap to match the replacement tank.


....and an AEH Zenith carb kit to recondition the carb.

3/12/2009 6:14:32 PM - 002060952697
Baking Soda Blasting is perfect for removing paint on your car. If the blasting company knows what they are doing the will blow most of the residue out of the car when they are done, the coating left on the sheet metal will stop any flash rusting for 6 to 8 weeks. Before you put any primers or body fillers on the car the surface needs to be washed with a product called "Holdtight 102"
This will neutralize the baking soda, give you 70 percent better adhesion on your primer and will not flash rust for 2 days. You will now have removed the balance of soda from your car.
For more info contact "theblastmasters.com