06/07/2009
HINDU CREMATION CEREMONY - NGABEN
A Balinese cremation is an amazing, spectacular, colorful, noisy and exciting event. It is also a costly event, and therefore usually held for many deceased at once. The months of July and August are especially good for cremations according to Balinese Hindu belief.
However, since three members of the royal family of Ubud have passed away in one month, an elaborate cremation is planned on May 2nd.
We go with Derk, Carley & Guy to see this ceremony. Lotte bikes back to her hotel, but ends up in the middle of the chaotic parade.
THE SPECTATORS
In a crowd of hundreds of spectators, we find ourselves a strategic spot on the corner, just before the entrance to the temple grounds.
PROCESSION - STATUES OF ANCESTORS
The procession is preceded by symbolic statues of the ancestors and proceeds to the local pura dalem (dedicated to Siwa and the dead) at Jl. Raya Ubud.
PROCESSION - BULLS
After the ancesters, come the carved bulls. Those will later carry the spirits of the dead to heaven. Today there are three bulls, one for each deceased person.
PROCESSION - TOWERS
The procession ends with the towers in which the bodies are placed between heaven and earth. A Bhoma (fierce-looking mask) is placed behind the towers, to scare away evil spirits
The towers are turned around and around (three times) in all directions, to disorient the spirit of the dead so that it can not find its way back home and haunt the family.
The mass of men carrying the bulls and towers, the musicians in between, and the many women and children carrying offerings, moves in waves left, right and slowly forward through the street. It looks and feels as a celebration of full great grandour and importance, full of excitement.
TEMPLE - PREPARATION OF THE BULLS
Once the procession enters the temple, the three bulls are placed on a 'stage' and prepared for the cremation. Each bull's back is cut to form an opening through which the bodies will be laid down.
During this preparation, people sell sarongs, drinks, snacks, and even foldable reading glasses?! (Guy bought a pair for my mom)
Music is played, and people wait...
DESCENDING OF BODIES FROM THE TOWERS
Once the bulls are 'ready', the coffins with the bodies are carried down from he towers. Family of the deceased chant and follow the coffins with offerings. The eldest son or a priest holds a 'paradise bird' which will guide the spirit to heaven.
PLACEMENT OF BODIES INTO THE BULLS
At the cremation ground the bodies are placed in the bulls, which symbolically carries the spirit of the dead person to heaven, from which the deceased can be reincarnated. The priests ascend the stage to place offerings and pour holy water on top of the deceased.
THE CREMATION
The crowd moves away from the stage with the three bulls. Large gas 'ligthers' are placed in strategic positions to ignite the fire for the cremation. Soon the stage with the bulls are on fire. The sparks are blown around and even scorch Quinten's hair... Time to go home.
AFTER THE CREMATION
Later on, the ashes, impurities of the body, will be drawn to the sea. The final series of ceremonies or Nyekah will be held to return the soul to heaven, a few days after the cremation day, and pacify the soul at the family temples.
New offerings will be given to thank God and the family visits all the participants to thank them as well. As a note, it is also believed that the now released soul, after a time in heaven where it might reach oneness with God (moksa), will return and reincarnate (samsara) in a different life.