Pete & Gill's Travails - sadiiqi

Albums posted for our 2011 summer trip to Italy and Cannes; Bermuda Sailing; Skiing at xmas in Telluride; and the new Sadiiqi race boat.

Long night with the barometer dropping so far it was starting another lap of the dial (no kidding), and very gusty winds in the early hours. As the wind switched from the east to the west, Gill complained that it was getting noisy and conditions were deteriorating. "Not on my (easterly) side of the bed" was my response. Violence ensured.
Up before dawn - no leaks, and all seemed fine. By mid-morning we'd got the generator out and built ia tent to keep the rain off, then "power!". At least we could save the fridge/freezer and use the microwave for Gills all important coffee. After that spent much of the day in the garden gluing the leaves back on trees, playing with the chainsaw, and 2 hours in the pool fishing out all the shrubbery. House pretty back to rights.
Finally got the main power back at 7pm, and apart from no TV 9no loss really), that was the storm.
More pics posted.

Power went out earlier this afternoon, but the steam powered t'internet is still working and got power in my trusty laptop.

Now 5:30 and the trees are whipping around, and it's very noisy as squall lines come through. Everything holding up well - a few small leaks; cats that want to go outside; and no shortage of leaves in the yard, though for now our plants are holding up well.

Eye is now due to pass to the west - got another 4 hours till then, so things should just be windy by morning, and air less full of dogs on chains.

Turned TV on thgis morning - still have power, yeeeeah. Weather Channel has shipped in its crew for carnage and mayhem. Ws watching shots of the road near John Smiths bay, with waves breaking over the road - on film were 2 kids hanging on to the railing with a wave going right over them and a mother in the background laughing. Yes it was Lulu and the kids! TV stars. Mind you the commentators were tut-tutting about all of this - kind of ruiining their shots of intrepid hurricane survival on camera with kids playing in the background.

Yard now filling up with leaves, but so far house is sheltered. Rain and gusty winds for now.

Just back from Portofinos where we met a coupolke of chaps from The Weather Channel TV - were quized and grilled about Bermuda and hurricanes. They were loooking for soundbits foir the tele no doubt. So in case any of this ends up on the airwaves we'll confess some of our quotes.
"What is going through your mind right now?" - "to be honest, limoncello. Nice isn't it?"
"Are you worried about your house?" - "well property prices are falling eveywhere aren't they - you have to be concerned in this market"
"Are you prepared for the storm?" - "we've got the usual, plenty of wine, and downloaded as many BBC programmes as possible"
"Have you considered going to a shelter?" - "now come on. Five glasses of limoncello is perfectly normal on this island, so don't take that tone with me sunny"
Evening degenerated a bit after that.
Wind picking up a bit. Cats locked inside now as they exceeded their limit on stocklng up with lizards - fridge already full of wine.

Hurricane Igor is planning to visit for a quick weekend break - times are hard even for hurricanes.
The mother was packed off on the last but one BA flight, so she'll miss the joys of no a/c, no water, no fridge, and hours of sitting in the dark trying to catch up on appalling book club books.

Garden all sorted, outside furiture secured, fence tied back, and the powerboat hauled. Sadiiqi sittring on her mooring and wants to go for a sail.

South Shore pictures attached - taking a bit of a battering. Bets being taken as to how long Mickeyt's will last at Elbow Beach - we may get a beach bar in Warwick after all. Sky getting dark now, soi cats are inside and we're off to Porto's.

Arrived in France a week ago to stay in the lovely "Taylor Towers" at Chateau-Neuf de Grasse, not far from Cannes. After advising Andrea that we were now used to being greeted on arrival with hot towels and fresh fruit juice, what met us at Nice airport? The Taylors with hot towels and orange juice - it's the only way to arrive!
Andrea had set us up with apartment viewing, and on Monday we started our tour of 8 apartments. By the end of the week we'd made an offer on 114 Rue d'Antibes, and we're now in the process of paperwork etc. to get the keys. Within 15 minutes of closing the deal, Gill was overheard bemoaning as she window shopped "I've not bought anything this trip". Andrea kindly pointed out - "the apartment?".
As usual this part of france is delightful - lots of restaurants, small villages, lunatic driving, fresh bread, cheeses from unusual animals, and the usual range of mid-August weather (deluges, winds, and the need for fleece).
Big thanks to Ian and Andrea for putting up with Gill, being such gracious hosts, helping with the apartment, and not screaming too loudly as Pete drove on the wrong side of the road.

Note quite sure the purpose of speed bumps - when they are the smoothest bit of road for miles you can actually drive faster. Three hour drive to Nairobi wasn't too bad until we were in the city where roundabouts are completely nuts. With cars and trucks desperate to get onto the roundabout at the same time as ones trying to get off, plus people walking through the chaos selling things - the whole shebang enveloped in dust and diesel smoke - it's fine in a weird way.
Bit of shopping in the city market today and ready to fly to France tomorrow night.
So it's kweheri for now and bon chance soon enough.

Left Nakuru and drove up the escarpment out of the Rift valley and along the Abadares to Mt. Kenya. Arrived late in the day, but in time for afternoon tea. Got a really nice room here - fireplace in the living room that gets a wood fire at night, and great views of the garden with Mt. Kenya in the distance.
Next day headed out to Ol Peleta park where we spent a long day driving 100km over bush tracks. Saw antelope, elephant and zebra, but alas no cats (big sigh from Gill). Rescued chimpanzees were in a couple of large enclosures - they were greet to see in good surroundings after their horrific early lives.
A bit of a rough spot on the drive had the car make a bit of a noise as a steel plate underneath was ripped off on the rocks. Car didn't seem to go any slower, so it probably wasn't an important bit.
We managed to have a pleasant lunch in the car without it being stolen by baboons as happened in Nakuru - and yes baboons are partial to custard creams as it is their main diet.
Thursday spent the whole day at Mt. Kenya Safari Club - animal orphanage in the morning seeing the breeding and re-introduction programmes for various species; afterward a round of golf on the par-3 course. Was a bit unnerving hearing a lion roar as I was hitting off the fourth tee - assume it was lion for "in the hole...". Lost plenty of balls and didn't bother looking for them - hence alive at the end of the day. Our caddies were very polite and only laughed quietly as the round progressed and Gill handed me a healthy defeat. After that took the Club's two Labradors for a long walk - great dogs.
Looks like the referendum on the constitution has passed, and most Kenyans we've spoken to are optimistic for the future.
back to Nairobi tomorrow.

Love the whole bureaucracy of Nakuru National Park – you queue and pay for park entry in US$ and car entry in KSH. For that you get a receipt and a smart card loaded with your money. 10 yards later you hand them both over, and get another receipt back – then you are into the park. It must make sense to someone.
Delightful day in the park – we drove for miles and miles – truck now plastered in mud. Toyota RAV4 is a poor man’s 4wd – it had the ground clearance of a short legged dachshund, and an automatic gearbox. Despite that we had loads of fun and got to see rhino, lions, hyena, and the usual crowd of grazers. The lake is a volcanic soda lake and is home to thousands (formally millions) of pink flamingos – who graze along the shoreline and are a backdrop to rhino, antelope, etc. Bit stinky but very pretty.
Long drive tomorrow to Mt. Kenya.

Finally the rent a truck arrived - almost 24 hours late, but hey that saved us the parking charge overnight. Off we set for the journey to Nakuru along the Uhuru highway. First bit took us through the sprawl of Nairobi - dodging mini-buses and big trucks coming at us from all directions, then the traffic thinned out a bit - mini buses to the Rift Valley, trucks on their way to Uganda, and 4wds on their way to the parks. Climbed up through forested areas to the escarpment looking out over the plains, 4,000' below. Bit of a cloudy day so no pictures. Roadside stalls selling sheepskins and oranges, plus mystery sacks of something, then down the escarpment to Nakuru, passing other lakes on the way.
An evening in Nakuru is probably similar to one in Burnley - not a lot to do, and full of aggressive stallholders trying to flog you a giraffe. Actually that last bit rarely happens in Burnley. Somehow have managed to be put in the presidential suite at the hotel, but that's not saying much - the president apparently needed a dining and living room, and a rock hard bed all shabbily decorated, with plenty of street noise all night.
Off to Nakuru National Park next....

Back in Nairobi after saying goodbye to the Mara, Fairmont and staff. Last night had the wait and kitchen staff give us a cake, along with "Hakuna Mata ta" song - all very embarrassing. Our waiter won best service staff for Fairmont worldwide - can see why.
No car deliverdd to hotel, no answerr at phone, and trip out to Budget Rent a Car Kenya determined that we'd hired from Kenya Budget Car Rentals, aka Budget Car Rentals, Kenya, and a few others all to lure one into thinking the hole-in-the-wall operation was truly global. Anyway we've been promised the car for tomorrow morning (sigh).
Gill got the flu - either that or African sleeping sickness. Going out to the Trat tonight (there's one in every city), then hit the road tomorrow, vehicle permitting.

Hippos do make a reliable alarm clock - the farting, belching, and harumphing starts every morning outside the tent at 4am. Then they hit the snooze control until 6 when it all goes off again. Just a pity you can't select any other time than 4am, and also they are a bit big to put on the bedside table. I guess feeding them may be an issue as well, unless thay have access to the breakfast buffet at the Fairmont Mara Club.
This morning a cold start as I had to lend my beanie to Gill who lost hers yesterday - odd being cold on the equator, but as the sun comes up it quickly warms. Spent the first hour or so looking for leopard - in the end saw one briefly as it was off on a hunt through the trees - great looking cat. A battered looking cheetah sitting on a mound was next, just before she set off on a hunt. The cat was injured and had a skin problem (don't we all) - the rangers were planning on bringing a vet in from Nairobi to sort it out. Apparently before it heals it has to hunt and opens up its cuts and sores again.
To finish off the morning stopped by a lazy lion couple having an early nap. Gill thought it was such a good idea it was back home for breakfast and a good snooze.
After a lunch watching the house cat (Pakka) stalk a monitor lizard and then think better of it. headed out for a last afternoon in the Mara. Thousands upon thousands of Wildebeest now - drawn by the rain on the grasslands. Now where there are wildebeest there are... smells, noise, oh and lions. Several mail/female breeding pairs were just collapsed in heaps, not worrying about the passing game, just having a cigarette and sleeping. A female on an ant hill spotted wildebeest in the distance and switched to hunting mode in an instant - we followed her along, but she was spotted by an alert beest and off they went.
Lovely sunset as we drove across the last plain and dropped down to the river and the comfort of the tent. Outside "masai" shower again in the rain - luxury!

A long day planned today - down to the Mara to see if we could see a crossing of Wildebeest - not sure what they were thinking of crossing them with. maybe a village idiot as they are all as daft. After a long drive, bumping across vast open plains, grass eaten short, and small herds scattered here and there, we got to a likely crossing point and joined a fleet of vans and jeeps to wait for the herd to cross. As a blade of grass will frighten a Wildebeest, they were very skittish as they approached the water. carcases floating by probably didn't settle nerves, neither did the gathering of vultures and crocodiles. After a number of false starts with the herd dashing back to the plains, they eventually strated the crossing (basically one of them was having a quiet drink and got shoved, then the rest followed). The nervous energy drove them across and had them cl;amber up the far bank, usually one on top of each other. A crocodile snapped one of them up, and two calves swam back, now separated from the herd. The other thousand or so made it, and lived to tell another day.
Next up, cheetah and a cub sunning themselves, just before we stopped for a picnic lunch on top af a hill. Lions, lionesses, and cubs rounded out a long and dusty day.

There are a few drawbacks to having big ears - being mobbed by women thinking you are the latest James Bond being one of course. On Safari there is the danger of being mistaken for a number of animals, the ability to pick up the drone of a billion flies (your own personal vuvuzela), and finally the sheer quantity of dust you can carry in them.
We had two long games drives with John in the posh land Cruiser, staying relatively near to the camp.
Not long after we started the morning game drive we came across park rangers. Out we got and went for a walk to get up close and personal with white rhinos. It was pretty amazing to be close enough to touch these enormous animals. They seemed pretty uncorned and carried out munching away and we took pictures and gawped. Hard to top that really, but we tried - lioness and two cubs pretty much did it - she was trying to clean them whilst they helpfully jumped all over her and bit her ears, chased her tail, and generally acted as you'd expect two month old cubs to behave. Another lioness slept nearby whilst we enjoyed the scene. Finished the day having to detour round sleeping elephants on the track - looked like a multiple pile up of jumbos - legs and trunks everywhere.

Up early and packed for the flight to the Mara. As the bridge over the Brown River had been washed out in the massive flood in February, it was a 40km journey over the bumps to get to Samburu international airport. Tired and dusty we arrived in plenty of time so sat and chatted with the guides and park rangers about the upcoming vote on the new Kenyan constitution - designed to allow the people to throw out unscrupulous politicians. We were shocked to hear about the flashy cars, big salaries, and all the trappings - thank goodness that doesn't happen at home.
Just the two of us on the plane for the first hop to Nanyuki - the girl co-pilot flew the leg and we landed as if there were 2 minutes to go for the sale at Harrods. The chap pilot flew the next leg to the Mara at a much more subdued pace - now will a full complement of yakking tourists, yelling above the engine noise about house prices in michigan, divorces, and geanelogical procedures.
Met in the Mara (actually just oustide) by the very spiffly kitted out Fairmont staff and theirt quite posh Land Cruisers. met John our driver for the next few days, and we were quickly whisked to the spendours of the Mara Safari Club, and our tent next to the river. When I say tent I mean canvassed hotel room complete with indoor and outdoor shower, four poster bed, fridge, etc. etc. Very very nice place, and the belching hippos in the river add a certian ambiance. Sitting in the library writing this - all dark wood and comfy seats - just grand!
John took us out for a game drive in the afternoon, and we were soon a loooong way from the Lodge. Met up with three lionesses with three cubs just snoozing in the grass - then on to four lionesses finishing off a fresh wildebeest. Took plenty of pictures, and watched for a long time before we started back. By now the sun was going down and it was getting cold. It took an hour to get back - by now wrapped in masai blankets and regretting coming out in shorts and t'shirts. It was dark by the time we pulled into the lodge - a hot shower thawed us out in time for the outside dinner to chill us again. On return to the room Gill was happier than if we won the lottery - hot water bottles in the bed!!! Fast asleep to the lullaby of the farting hippos.

A lie in to 6am this morning as we were off for a full day in the park with Daniel and Sammie.
The plan was to head over to Buffalo Springs Park, which was 25km away, but would drive around Samburu prk a bit first. The morning was clear and bright, and soon we were on the trail tracking cats.
First up was a Cheetah on the prowl - Gill's eyesight paying dividends again. The cat was quite far away, but we took some long distance pictures and then watched it head deeper into the bush. Next up and just round the next acacia tree was a leopard on a rock. Quite a big rock and quite a big leopard. This one had grown out of the cute stage, and when he gave you a look, you knew he meant business. Took lots of pictures and watched him have a good nap, and then head off to murder something, or climb a tree for a siesta, such is the life of leopards.
A loooong, bumpy, but not too dusty drive later we were over in Buffalo Springs - a vast expanse of lava fields, and barren ground, scattered with acacia trees and scrub grass. Animals were hard to find, but we tracked down the remaining Cape Buffalo in the park (most had died in the recent drought), and a large herd of Elephant who were having a good old mud bath. A picnic on a hill was followed by the drive back. As rain started to fall, Pete helped Sammie lower the metal roof of the van by smacking it on his head (Pete's head!). One very sore scalp later and we were back into the park and on the hunt for more cats - but the rain had driven everyone indoors. Dinner tonight we were presented with a "long-stayers" cake, complete with candles and sing song. Tomorrow off to the Mara.

The East African Fire Alarm Bird, so named as it imitates a smoke detector at 100db, made its presence known outside our room at 2am. With lungs like that you'd think it was the size of an Ostrich at least - but likely the size of your thumb. Imagine our surprise when we got up to notice next doors hut a smouldering ruin....
Gill doesn't like early normally, but 5:45 is pushing the boundaries of early anyway, so she staggered to reception like a dalek needing a coffee, and then off we were in the van with Sammie and Daniel. What a fabulous morning - the dust was down after overnight rain and everything smelt fresh and new, elephant dung notwithstanding. Tracks led us to three lion cubs waiting for their mother on a tree limb started the day. They were as interested in the vans as we were in them. I do wish people would be quiet around the animals though - almost everyone is apart from the occaisional yakking van - I won't say of which nationality as that would be presumptious, y'all.
Male lion went by and we watched him swim across the river to the quiet side - you could hear the groan from the antelope over there. Gill spotted a cheetah at full speed in the distance - after a long search we spotted the cat well away from the road and watched for an hour as the kill was eaten and the cat got its breath back.
Finished the day with a leopard up a tree - looked like he was stuck. As usual with leopards he ignored all the fuss around him and got on with a really good nap. Quite skilled at napping up a tree this one - our moggies at home would have quickly fallen out.

Everyone should experience 24 hours in an African city at some stage in their lives. The assault on the senses, the raw energy, the sea of humanity - it could never be described as dull. A full day in nairobi passed and felt as if we'd been there for a week at least. Dinner at Haandi rounded off the day, then back for a restless night ahead of out journey to Samburu.
A five o'clock start is never easy, but we were soon on out to Wilson Airport (the general aviation hub of east africa. Driving by two enormous car/truck crashes in ten minutes was a sobering start - though likely a non-soborous end to the drivers involved. We were the only two on the flight as we headed over Mt. Kenya and quickly descended to the dirt strip in Samburu. Picked up by Sammy, our driver for the next few days, in his trusty van and off we went to the lodge, which due to the recent floods washing away many of the lodges and camps, also washed away the main bridge - a 40km detour was required. On the way we spotted game, took lots of pictures and evenually arrived some 4 hours later at the lodge. Room is in a "traditional style" - they obviously used to sleep in hay lofts before corrugated tin was invented. Great place - Sopa Serena, really friendly staff, and Sammy did a great job in the morning, and joined by Daniel, an equally fine job in the afternoon. Might as well go home now - today we saw 2 cheetahs, 2 leopards, and 5 lions, in amongst large herds of elephants, etc. Gill a very happy camper indeed. Several hundred pictures await sorting through on the laptop - which we'll do as long as the generator is running this evening. The park is fairly quiet compared to previous trips, whrn it never was too busy anyway. Plenty of animals, though the good rains have allowed the herds to stay away from the river, so more driving is involved to find animals.
Loving it back in Kenya, and the people remain the friendliest we've ever met - despite their political troubles and occaisonal internal strife, they remain wonderfully optimistic.
Here's hoping some runs off.....

Gill doesn't like flying - the old joke is that her arms get too tired. So night flight to Gatwick put her in a good mood for Berts Always Reliable Taxi's Ltd. to not show up for the dash to Heathrow.
The new terminal 5 is still a terminal after all - same degree of glamour taking your shoes off for the security check as elsewhere. BA Lounge cheered Gill up no end - the nice chap who checked us in bumped us up on the flight to Nairobi, and they were serving bacon butties for breakfast.
Arrived in Africa late at night - felt good to be back as we bumped across a dimly lit city and arrived at the Hilton.
Spent the day shopping for more carved animals - apparently there's no limit. At one stage Gill handed over to me mid-bargain, and I converted her 3 at 1,600ksh each to 5,000ksh all in. Gill avoided the first entrance to the Nairobi Central Market as that's where the butchers stalls are, and she hates the smell. I had to laugh as one of the stallholders took her to his shop to finish a transaction, and led her straight through butcher central. Oh the sights and smells.
Tomorrow we head out early flying north to the sub-Sahara region of Samburu.
Kwaheri!

We leave on Wednesday, July 21st, and should arrive Thursday night in Nairobi. Then on Saturday fly up to Samburu to begin the safari.
Will try and keep this updated, internet in the bush permitting.

Am getting very comfortable living in Schipol airport now. At first the language barrier was a challnge but over the days have progressed from hotfredommer and alsterblieft to discussions on philosophy and speed skating. Today changed jobs and am no longer a cleaner - air traffic controller 2nd class now. Its not a difficult job - my duties are to advise all flights calling in that they can't do whatever they are asking - can't push back, can't land can't takeoff, can't complain.

Dutch life isn't so bad - your feet get broken into the wooden shoes. - this time of year its wooden wellies. The cheese no longer tastes of congealled rubber bands and of course already au fait with mayonaisse with everything.

One day I may return to gatwick or even bermuda, but my heart and probably my luggage will always be in amsterdam Be dank Piet Pete Ramsdale