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Some glimpses and memoirs of travels along the slopes, vales, ridges and Peaks of the Greatest Mountain Range on earth...


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Twin Passes Trek- Lamkhaga Pass

Brunsh- Rohdedendrons
Brunsh- Rohdedendrons
Rohdedendron blossoms on the way down to Sangla
Pretty Chitkul
Pretty Chitkul
Seen from my guesthouse- here are the ranges flanking the valley we were to follow.. the tallest building in Chitkul bea
Ranikanda Camp
Ranikanda Camp
The rain clouds of the previous evening have deposited fresh snow on hill sides...view from Camp at Ranikanda as we wak
Camp Ready at Dumti
Camp Ready at Dumti
The camp was setup at 1600 hrs ...well before the bulk of the team arrived
Dumti Camp
Dumti Camp
Riverside camp at Dumti. 16 Kms away from Ranikanda..we were on the true left of the Baspa. There is a ITBP Camp on the
Dumti View- Evening
Dumti View- Evening
The peaks to the East and the head of the valley...aglow with the rays of the setting sun!!
Dumti View 1A
Dumti View 1A
Looking East to the head of the Baspa Valley from Dumti Camp
Dumti View 1B
Dumti View 1B
Looking East to the head of the Baspa Valley from Dumti Camp- another view
Rain-Clouds
Rain-Clouds
Rain clouds rolling in from the West...as the evening sets in
Rain-clouds 2B
Rain-clouds 2B
and darker
Rain-Clouds 2C
Rain-Clouds 2C
and darker still
ITBP
ITBP
The lone ITBP post housing almost 12 people. They were a pretty friendly and helpful lot
Camp Fire
Camp Fire
Thats a fire made of the Juniper branches and Horse Dung!! Really needed that fire that evening
Early Morning @ Dumti
Early Morning @ Dumti
Morning glory at the Dumti Camp
Dumti_Nithal
Dumti_Nithal
View of the White peak opposite the Nullah after leaving Dumti....on the True Right of Baspa
Dumti_Nithal
Dumti_Nithal
View ahead to the head of the valley..Nithal Thatch invisible over the bend to the right
Dumti_Nithal
Dumti_Nithal
Closer view of the head of the valley...looking towards Nithal Thatch
Dumti_Nithal
Dumti_Nithal
Closer view of the head of the valley...looking towards Nithal Thatch
Dumti_Nithal
Dumti_Nithal
The mountainsides on the True Right ...en-route Nithal Thatch from Dumti
Dumti_Nithal
Dumti_Nithal
Seeing Nithal Thatch over the bend...its on to the left of the bottom of the glove...little white hutments at a distance
Dumti_Nithal
Dumti_Nithal
Rachit gesticulating...the mountain overlooking Nithal Thatch in the backdrop
Dumti_Nithal
Dumti_Nithal
Now looking south to the head of the valley...where Baspa Glacier and the Gateway to Lamkhaga is located
Looking Back to Dumti
Looking Back to Dumti
Looking back towards the area from where we came. A lone human figure somewhere in the bottom middle frame
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Baspa Glacier Area seen from Nithal Thatch
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Getting to see the vague outline of the glacier
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Campsite in view of the Baspa Glacier..route to lamkhaga at the feet of the White mountain in right
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
View of Baspa Glacier area from afar
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
View of Baspa Glacier from Lamkhaga Route
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
View of Baspa Glacier from route to Lamkhaga
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Close up 1 of Baspa Glacier
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Close up 2 of Baspa Glacier
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Close up 3 of Baspa Glacier
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Getting Close 2 Baspa Glacier
Close up 4 of Baspa Glacier
Baspa Glacier Camp
Baspa Glacier Camp
The interesting looking slabs in the rockface...just opposite camp site at Baspa Glacier
First View
First View
First view of the Lamkhaga Pass ridge as we enter the Santum Sanctorum
Lamkhaga
Lamkhaga
Close up from Gateway to Lamkhaga. The pass lies on the ridge seen as a depression in the middle of the frame
Highest Camp
Highest Camp
Camp has still not stirred. its about 0630 Hrs..afraid to shake off the -12 Degrees Cold...Highest camp..at 5200 Mtrs
Path of Descent
Path of Descent
Thats where we descended from, the previous evening
Lamkhaga Pass
Lamkhaga Pass
The Sun about to rise over the Pass ridge..
Sherry on Snow
Sherry on Snow
Sherry foraging for any food...on the icy expanse of the snowfield at the feet of the pass
Lamkhaga Snowfield
Lamkhaga Snowfield
Early morning at the snowfield at the base of Lamkhaga Pass
Lamkhaga Snowfield
Lamkhaga Snowfield
Sheryy checking out the kitchen at the Lamkhaga Base snowfield camp
Lamkhaga Snowfield
Lamkhaga Snowfield
Camp at snowfield at the base of Lamkhaga Pass
Lamkhaga Snowfield
Lamkhaga Snowfield
Camp about to break
Lamkhaga Base
Lamkhaga Base
Breaking camp for the final descent down
Team Photo
Team Photo
Team photo before leaving the snowfield...Sherry stands couple of feet away
Team Photo
Team Photo
Entire team posing under the descent route of the previous evening
Team Photo
Team Photo
Team posing ...before breaking camp..at the feet of the pass
Sherry and the Snows
Sherry and the Snows
Sherry in Deep reflection on the snow field
Descent
Descent
Team posing...on the way down. Me on left
Me and Sherry
Me and Sherry
Sherry and Me posing at the Lamkhaga Pass snowfield
Team Photo on Descent
Team Photo on Descent
The members posing on the way down from the snowfield....braving sun burns
Glissadng the Snowfield
Glissadng the Snowfield
Team fun begins as we glissade down the 250 mtrs...halfway down to the Lamkhaga Glacier
Glissadng the Snowfield
Glissadng the Snowfield
Glissading fun by the entire team ...reaching the first snowfield beneath the pass
Lamkhaga Glacier
Lamkhaga Glacier
Just another descent to go...to reach the Lamkhaga Glacier area
Lamkhaga Glacier
Lamkhaga Glacier
Almost there at the end of the snow kingdom
Descending on Rocks
Descending on Rocks
Traversing the path from Lamkhaga Glacier to Kyarkoti area
Lunchsite Enroute Kyarkoti
Lunchsite Enroute Kyarkoti
Team lunch on the way to Kyarkoti...Support team has already pitched camp down below
Campsite-19th June
Campsite-19th June
Campsite...just short of kyarkoti...Bear infesttation suspected in the area
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Approaching the vast camping grounds of lovely Kyarkoti
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Wild horses...gurgling rivers and wild blossoms at Kyarkoti
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Meeting the Indian Army contingent at Kyarkoti....thats their Mess Tent
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Photo opportunity with the Officers and Jawans from Rajputana Rifles, Garhwal Rifles and AMC
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Discussing International Affairs with the Army guys :-)
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Wild blossoms at Kyarkoti grounds
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Another view of the lovely grounds
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Wild blossoms at Kyarkoti grounds
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Me posing at Kyarkoti...the ridges and spurs leading to Chhotkhaga Pass behind me
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Kyarkoti Camping grounds
Wild blossoms again...this time purple colors!!!
Heading south to Harsil
Heading south to Harsil
Flower bedecked pastures as one heads south in the Jalandhari Gaad Valley
Dhumdharkandi Ridge
Dhumdharkandi Ridge
Pretty views of the East side face of the Dhumdharkandi Valley
Looking Back
Looking Back
Looking back into the Kyarkoti region from the Jalandhari Gaad Valley
Looking Back
Looking Back
Looking back into the Kyarkoti region North East

Nalgan Pass

Team Photo - Start of Day 2
Team Photo - Start of Day 2
All members (except me) happy at the breakfast table
Team Photo- Start of the trek
Team Photo- Start of the trek
I join in the Gang here..Ravin remains hidden
Maa Prabhjot ki Bidai
Maa Prabhjot ki Bidai
Team jesting here to hide the dispoointment of Prabhjot leaving
Teen Deviyan
Teen Deviyan
The three Lady muskateers on a parting photoshoot. Rachit is the obliging shutterbag
Wooden Temple- Sewa Dogri
Wooden Temple- Sewa Dogri
We all wondered why the trophies were hung on the temple walls
Wooden Temple- Artwork
Wooden Temple- Artwork
INtricat wood carving and fine craftsmanship at the temple doors
Art on Wood
Art on Wood
Somebody spent quite some time building this temple..tucked away in this non-descript village
Wooden Temple
Wooden Temple
Me posing with this ancient piece of art
Campsite at last
Campsite at last
Finally the campsite is visible 2 Kms down from Sewa Dogri near a confluence from the true right bank on Rupin
Day 2 -Camp
Day 2 -Camp
The camp being set up by the support team
Lounging on the River Bank
Lounging on the River Bank
Team soaking away the "first day-knock" in the ice-cold waters of the Rupin
Midnight Magic
Midnight Magic
We could not resist the magical aura of the full moon at midnight..
Day 3 @ Jiskon Bridge
Day 3 @ Jiskon Bridge
Me Posing with this alternate bridge to cross over to the True left of Rupin, just below the village Jiskon. We had cros
Rupin Valley @ Jiskon Bridge
Rupin Valley @ Jiskon Bridge
As one looks back downstream from Jiskon bridge...the lovely vista of the Rupin Valley
Seemaji @ Jiskon Bridge
Seemaji @ Jiskon Bridge
Seema chats up the Local Garhwaali Ladies..Krushi seems to be dropping in the next minute
Heroes at the Bridge
Heroes at the Bridge
Bhailog sporting their glares at the bridge (There was no harsh sun to write home about though) :-)
Looking Up-River from Jiskon bridge
Looking Up-River from Jiskon bridge
Either which way the valley looked pretty ..but we were headed up there and to the right
Rachit and I @ Jiskon Bridge
Rachit and I @ Jiskon Bridge
Rachit and I posing at the Jiskon Bridge.. we do seem pretty happy together as usual ..like good old DDK days
Torquoise Blue Rupin
Torquoise Blue Rupin
No hint of the rain waters...as the Rupin flows clear in its torquoise glory
Team Conference
Team Conference
The team seems to be confering deep aware of me pointing the telephoto at them :-) Seema, Hardik, Raji and Baba Ritesh
Water Power
Water Power
The Vast quantities of the river water undergo such minute atomisation as they flow turbulantly over the rocks
Water Mill near the Bridge
Water Mill near the Bridge
For the uninitiated...here is the age old green energy solution used by several Himalayan villages for the milling of gr
Jiskon
Jiskon
First of the houses of Jiskon village...seen just above the bridge. This village rules over the confluence of the Rupin
Surveyor of Yama
Surveyor of Yama
Here Ravin discusses with a man employed with the Jaypee Industries which is contemplating a Hydel project in the Nargan
Day 3 Campsite
Day 3 Campsite
Tucked away a little inside of the True left of the Nargani is the Day 3 campsite. Bang Opposite ..across the river and
Pandhar Village
Pandhar Village
Cant see the houses...but sure can see a track. A bright light somewhere there during the night indicated Human habitati
Day 3 Camp
Day 3 Camp
The team slowly gathering up at the camp site. It was a long days walk of 16 Kilometers from the river side camp at Sewa
Critical Way Point- Bridge to the Right
Critical Way Point- Bridge to the Right
Our decision to not to go to Pandhar and continue on the True left of the Nargani would have proved disastrous unless we
Atop the Nargani Bridge
Atop the Nargani Bridge
Ritesh and Rachit here atop the Nargani Bridge
Team at Nargani Bridge
Team at Nargani Bridge
Jaisingh clicked this pic for all of us from the other end of the bridge
Nargani Bridge
Nargani Bridge
Me posing with the Nargani Bridge
Rachit Pappaji
Rachit Pappaji
There was a bit of a confusion about the route after crossing the bridge. Rachit takes advantage and gets himself clicke
Route Confusion
Route Confusion
The team huddled together trying to locate Rajendra over the walkie talkie for the route ahead
Our own Bollywood pair
Our own Bollywood pair
Krushi and Raji were quite a team.. Krushi surpassed all his past surface speed records to keep up company with the mara
Found the Route and Rajender
Found the Route and Rajender
Rajender found at last (seen with Baba Ritesh). We had stopped by for a route enquiry with the local shepherd. He predic
The Silent Warriors
The Silent Warriors
They forever amaze me...the porters!! Carrying in excess of 30Kgs load on their backs they never missed a chance to part
Lunch Time En Route
Lunch Time En Route
After some serious Roller Coaster trek we desparately were looking for a shaded area with water to have lunch. We found
Babas
Babas
Baba Ritesh and Baba Jaisingh (The Grand Oldman of 53 who is never afraid to break routes in the harshest of mountains)
Up there in the sky
Up there in the sky
One of those steep climbs that materialised innumerably...suddenly taking one several hundred meters up from the valley
Leaving em greens behind
Leaving em greens behind
The team seems to be breaking clear from the deeply verdant and flat valley. From this point on there was a net gain of
Begining of the Paradise
Begining of the Paradise
After a night of nagging fear of bear attack in the small campsite we were suddenly awarded this treat to the eyes the n
Suriwas Thatch 1
Suriwas Thatch 1
The Kilometer long campsite of Suriwas Thatch laying lazily as seen from the waterfall area
Suriwas Thatch 2
Suriwas Thatch 2
Virgin waters of the Suriwas Thatch
Suriwas Thatch 3
Suriwas Thatch 3
Upon this view we regretted not having extended our trek for an hour the previous evening. We could actually have camped
Suriwas Thatch 4
Suriwas Thatch 4
A Lone shepherds tent stands guard as the beautiful view of Suriwas Thatch presents in all its grandeur
Suriwas Thatch 5
Suriwas Thatch 5
Another view of the Suriwas Campsite (Highly Recommended as Day 4 Camp)
The Shepherds and a Sheep
The Shepherds and a Sheep
The guides Jaisingh and Rajendra wait for the team to regroup before they would again vanish out ...herding us ahead. Ra
Campsite Galore
Campsite Galore
Another pretty campsite - a Kilometer away. Teams which can throw one more camp in between Pandhar and Suriwas can comfo
The Pass Cometh
The Pass Cometh
The brown and rocky spur just beyond the treelines has to be gained to approach the Pass from a comparatively easier rou
Wild flower
Wild flower
Though they look interesting, they are only used as fodder for goats..have no medicinal value
Circling up the Approach
Circling up the Approach
The team proceeds up stream to the East of the Approach spur looking for a trail. This spur is to the East of the Pass a
Pass Base Camp Day 5
Pass Base Camp Day 5
After gaining the approach spur one can see the area where the Pass might be..still not visible. But the GPS steadfastly
Campsite -Day5
Campsite -Day5
The Slopes are exposed though grassy. Dropping steadily down a 1000 mtrs to the valley floor below
Bed of Flowers
Bed of Flowers
A lovely bed of yellow blossoms just below the campsite.
Summit Day- March to the top
Summit Day- March to the top
Th team has already gained the morraine platform visible above the base camp. The Pass is still not visible but the dipp
Bye Bye Nargani
Bye Bye Nargani
Those peaks rule the true left bank of the Nargani Vlley and beyond... saying bye bye to all that as we ready ourselves
Nalgan Pass @4485 Mtrs
Nalgan Pass @4485 Mtrs
Me posing aside the Cairn indicating the Nalgan Pass
@ Nalgan Pass 1
@ Nalgan Pass 1
Arriving members enjoy the deep snow on the otherside as Jaisingh poses with the Cairn here. Up in the slope thats proba
@ Nalgan Pass 2
@ Nalgan Pass 2
More members arrive and enjoy the snow slopes. Still not content they move up the ridge!!!
Heading down to Sangla
Heading down to Sangla
Thats the route heading to the Rukti Gaad Confluence and then East to Sangla
@ Nalgan Pass 3
@ Nalgan Pass 3
The team gathering up slowly at the pass one by one. Rajendra arrived first at 0930 Hrs and the last man to join in at 1
@ Nalgan Pass 4
@ Nalgan Pass 4
Me atop the pass...the Sangla valley behind me
@ Nalgan Pass - Rachit
@ Nalgan Pass - Rachit
Rachit and I at the Pass
@ Nalgan Pass- Hardik
@ Nalgan Pass- Hardik
Hardik arrives at last with Vinod... He had Done it!!! inspite of his injured ankle and sagging spirits!
Kiski???
Kiski???
That thought popped in my mind (in Hindi) when I saw those letters emblazoned on that Balaclava
Hardik and the Pass
Hardik and the Pass
Hardik goes contemplative looking at the snowslopes....fruits of his labor and determination of the previous 7 days!!!!
Looking back
Looking back
Looking back at the Pass area (The depression in the middle) after crossing the snows...we were now headed for Sangla an

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Videos


Suriwas Thatch- En route Nalgan Pass
One of the prettiest campsites in the Nalgan Pass route almost before reaching the Pass base camp area.

Shakuli Camping Ground
About 3 Kms from Ranikanda ..this beautiful camping ground can be the first day campsite for a team starting off from Chitkul with all adequate permissions.

Final Push to Nalgan Pass
Team starting off from the Nalgan base camp for the final climb onto the Nalgan Pass

Lamkhaga Pass
Reaching the top of an alternate route over the Lamkhaga Pass ridge under heavy snow conditions. The crossover point was recorded at 5350 mtrs while the traditional Lamkhaga route remained 70 mtrs below at 5280 mtrs.

All members at Nalgan Pass Summit
All members of our team reaching the top of the Nalgan Pass one after another. It was an achievement of sorts traversing the dense jungles and less travelled routes of the Nalgan Valley

High Camp at Foot of Lamkhaga Pass
In the huge bowl of a snowfield the high camp was set at about 5200 mtrs

Gateway to Lamkhaga
To the true left of the Baspa Glacier snout, the Gateway to Lamkhaga Pass opens up. Just a wee bit into the gateway..this is the grand view of the Lamkhaga and Chhotkhaga Pass

Approaching the Higher Snowfields of Lamkhaga Pass (Himachal Side)
The higher snowfields...in the realm of 5000 mtrs while approaching the Lamkhaga Cwm...the terminal bounding ridge crossing which one passes over to the Lamkhaga Glacier and then on to Bhagirathi Valley

Glissading down the Lamkhaga Snowfields
Here are the snowfields at the foot of Lamkhaga Pass (on the Lamkhaga Glacier side). In a good weather condition, we glissaded as much as about 300 mtrs. Needless to say it saved crucial time to reach the Lamkhaga Glacier area during the descent.

Approaching The Nalgan Pass Base Camp
The route leads thru the Eastern Shoulder of the ridge where the Nalgan Pass is located. A steep climb of about 1000 mtrs from the valley floor brings one to the Base camp. Afterwards another 500 mtrs of climb takes one to the pass

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1/29/2012 8:49:19 PM