Tahquitz - Bricia and Tim - White Maidens JUL 2010
Denny's Morning Ritual at 5:30am. Ask Bricia about the former gang member ... :-)
Bald is beautiful ! Getting ready to huff-n-puff up to the base of the climb
Finally made it, and no, Troy, we did NOT get LOST !
All ready to go ! (But she can't figure out if she's too hot or too cold !)
Taping up ... Tim sings the *Rocky* theme song ! (i have the video to prove it)
Damn, who IS that handsome dude ?
2nd pitch of White Maidens ... Look at the HUGE SMILE !
Bricia is down there somewhere (little white helmet dot, dead center)
Muscling thru the tough section...
Of COURSE, the goofy self portrait!
This section is the "money" pitch, and the namesake of the climb ... white stone, a white walkway
Getting cozy at a tight belay, while Mark (SUPER COOL NICE 57 y/o dude) comes up. He was cheering Bricia on after a tough slip and slide section !
Contrary to popular belief, that is a REAL smile ... awesome day !
Dining on cheese, crackers and cherries... This girl is so photogenic !
Mark took this picture of us having lunch. Who is the old guy with Bricia ?
Mark was THE COOLEST !
Signature foot shot while spitting cherry seeds ...
This shot is looking straight down the White Maiden's Buttress while we ate lunch
I was practicing my "over the head no-look" camera shot
This is the "sad" pitch, cuz it's the LAST pitch ... boo hoo...
Did I mention the weather was awesome ?
Aw, the warmth of the summit, the glow of success !
Great view of Idyllwild below from the summit blocks
Those are the smiles of VICTORY !
"Girl on Rocks", the highest point of Tahquitz.
3 rock beasts ...
2 *Rock* stars posing ... Tahquitz and Bricia
Rock Ritual: Ahhhh, Chips, Margs, and tacos at La Casita
Joshue Tree APR-2010 (S&B)
Tim is goofing around while driving ...Sandra HATES it when I do this ! Hee hee !
Sleeping Beaty, charging up her batteries on the drive to Josh.
Goofball sisters, totally stoked to be at Joshua Tree on the amazingly beautiful day in April ...
Mandatory goofy self-portrait
Sandra and Bricia are TOURISTS !
Super cool rock climbers
Everybody has to carry something (it's a short walk in, though)
After rigging 2 top rope lines, Bricia does her VERY FIRST rappell. Notice the Kleimheist for backup or panic (just in case)
"On Rappell !" and down she goes !
Done like a pro ! (like her sister Sandra)
Super stud-ette, ready to go.
Sandra loves to rappell
That's a real smile, even for this POSE !
Tim is on the "Action Cam", Bricia's first time out, just stepping on this 5.8 face.
Up the dike she goes
Sandra on belay,Tim on camera, Bricia on route
Is that a fake flex, or is it real ?
Tim's signature "over-the-shoulder" shot. I feel like Troy !
Gettin' into the thin area ...
Bricia maintains composer with quiet feet ...
Nice perpective shot from the side. It's steep and thin
Bricia "reaching" for the (relative) security of the crack
Bricia now belays Sandra. Ladies first !
"Twinkle Toes" negotiates the lower bulge ... This is the 5.8 move, and not obvious.
But my climbing partner kicks off the dust and rust, and makes it look easy...
Sandra's signature "guns", victory on display
"The Sarge" takes a break. It had the camera in my pocket so no pics of me. My first climb outside the gym since my accident!
Bricia working the 5.9 face now. YES, it is THIN up there !
Thin, but INTENSELY FUN !
"Ahhh, finally something to put my hand in !"
Bricia completes after pulling the roof
Sandra demonstrates great footwork up high where it's thin.
Kids, THIS is how it's done !
(Bob Marley theme) Jammin', We be jammin', jammin' til' the night is thru...
Mandatory end-of-the-day goofy self-portrait ! YES, we had a BLAST !
Dolomites Italy SEP-2009
The trip begins ... Welcome to Austria !
The high country is just beginning to peak thru.
After a dark night in pouring rain and super small winding roads, we arrive in Corvara, and have a beer at "The Undergro
Quite the crazy little bar in Corvara.
Next morning, at 6am, we do a gear check before breakfast.
Michael decides it is best to climb with clean teeth. I agree !
The awesome lady of the house got up an hour early to make us breakfast so we could get at least a psuedo-alpine start.
Yes, life is GOOD in the Italian Dolomite Alps !
On the road to our launch point, Hotel Boe, we climb the serpentine road up above Corvara, hanging under the morning clo
Michael is loaded with rope, and ready to walk up 3000 ft to get to the base of the climb.
This is at the bottom of the ski area. The lifts are closed. Bummer ! We were planning on riding the lifts to the top fo
1 hr 15 min, halfway up the 2nd lift, prob. 2500' up from the base. We are both sweating like pigs doing all this work.
But we take a small break (cuz it's a DAMN STEEP road, too steep for a car, for sure) and get to see somewhat of a view
Eerily silent, we are the only ones out.
Alas, top of the last lift, red-faced and sweaty.
In the mist, we couldn't see anything, so we pulled out the map probably 10 times to figure out where to go
The old hut, looking quite, uh, er, OLD !
Hey Michael, do YOU see anything to climb around here ? Where's the freakin' rock ?
At last, some of the mist clears, and the classic Italian limestone starts to appear. Large, overhead, ominous, and FUN
Let's do this !
Finally, at the base of the Neuner, next to the Zehner, up the Vallon. We peel off and get ready to rack up, chalk up, a
Thar she blows, first pitch of the Neuner. A dark, sharp jacket-ripping chimney.
Overhead, the rest of the route appears thru the mist. No, that's NOT the sun.
Michael, looking every bit the part, making all German climbers proud.
Let's do this !
With Tim back on the ground after gnarly 55 ft ledgefall and 2 broken ankles later, Michael is going to retrieve some pr
First time off the ground outside of a gym
The German Spiderman racks some gear.
Up this slick little dyhedral, the forces of physics pull at his body
He goes up to spot the piece that held my fall: a 1-inch Trango Flexcam that we must donate to the mountain gods as an
I knew my right ankle was broken right away, so I taped it up tight with climbing tape, the Universal Medical Kit. See S
On the trail of tears (and laughter), we amble down, slowly. We have about 1.5 miles to go out of this canyon, with an u
I made Michael carry ALL the gear, while I hung on him during the "rescue". The route is left of the large notch, and is
We are marvelling at (a) the beauty of the place, and (b) how far we've come on Tim's 2 broken ankles.
Is that the face of pain, or joy, or both ? you decide.
It's sorrow, cuz we can't climb ! Boo hoo hoo hoo ... :-(
We reached the top of the Vallon lift station. Michael is getting ready to go down for help while I sit and wait. I brou
Sitting in my little perch, not wanting to move, I snap a pic looking right up the Vallon.
This is taken towards the south from the lift station.
Ok, Don't forget the car keys, and the radio !
The rain cometh.
The rain goeth.
The norther section of this southern wall starts to appear.
Tape it up, and git'r'done.
Self portrait. I think I look too serious here.
Michael took off straight down the ski trail, mud, scree and everything.
I walked (well, hobbled) to the rail and snapped this, 300meters (900ft) of vertical Limestone. THis place really is awe
A perfect view up the vallon, a mile into the canyon. It's hard to see the perpective in this picture.
There's the back of the canyon, complete with a little lake, waterfall and some snow patches. They're too far away to se
After a bit of time (1.5 hours) the boys in red show up, in style.
I guess I get a chopper ride down ! I thought they were coming up in a 4-wheel drive.
4 Italians SAR guys (2 SARs, and pilot& copilot)
Once out of the clouds, this place is BEE-AUTIFUL from the air !
Awesome Italian Guy #1, posing for Facebook !
Awesome Italian Guy #2 (he's also a climber)
I took this over my shoulder, blind, of the cockpit
They higher you get, the more peaks show up. This place is summer and winter paradise.
Nearing the town of Bruneck, 35km from Corvara.
Preparing to land on the rooftop of the hospital.
The culprits !
Left ankle, Talis, fractured. Bummer. I thought I only had a mild sprain on this one, and walked on it the entire time f
Right Ankle, Talis, fractured. This is the one I knew was broken and taped it up tight. You can still see the tape inden
Self portrait, in the hospital, on the gurney.
Dr. Martin Mauro, Awesome Italian Doctor #1. After delivering the bad news, the set to work on the plaster.
Job done. This is going to be FUN ! .... NOT !
Michael arrives at the hospital, amazed to find that I broke them BOTH, and managed to walk out of the vallon.
Dr. Martin, laughing AT me !
I wanted to get his name, cuz I'm going to send him some great Californian red wines for all his help.
On the road from Bruneck to Corvara.
In the morning, we were treated to what Corvara REALLY looks like. It was raining yesterday, so we didn't get to see any
This is a direct shot up the S242, looking west, with the Sella group on the right. It is spectacular.
Looking up the hill towards a different liftstation, service by gondolas.
More above Corvara.
Michael & I decide to drive around the Dolomites, to Bolzano and back in a big loop. This is the southwest side of the S
The vallon is just on the other side of this peak.
Hotel Boe, where we started yesterday.
Sad reminder of what we are NOT doing on this most excellent day of weather.
Town of Arabba, the ski area is massive !
We are now on the backside of the Sella group. Everywhere you look, there is ski areas. This place rocks in the winter.
We are travelling west, up to the Pordoi pass.
Found this nice WWII gun placement bunker. This area was hot with activity in WWII.
Piz Pordoi, the place we WERE going to climb first. The climb line is up the leftmost pillar, hit the gap, the up the mi
You can see the gondola station, AND, the gondola was running today.
This is the Pordoi pass, full of cyclists, motorcycles, autos, busses and people out enjoying a roadside beer.
Coming down the Pordoi pass, a nice view of the Castinaccio.
The 3 sections of the massive Sassolunga, with an awesome cloud
Down the S242 towards Bolzano
All these towns have this style of architecture
Anytown, Dolomites, Italy. All beautiful !
And a castle or palace or two to keep you dreaming...
Up another pass...
Welcome to the Dolomites !
We hit Bolzano, couldn't find anything other than restaurants open, so back we come.
I'm pretty sure this is the Alpe di Suisi, huge, lots of skiing beneath.
Slightly obscured, Cima San Giacomo
I don't know what this is, but I like it !
We stop, and Tim takes a LONG hike from the car, approx. 2 feet !
View of Marmolada from the west, going east
The glacier is active year round. It is end of summer (late september) and it is a winter scene up top.
Pass Pordoi Tram station tickets.
Back to the Sella group and the Hotel Boe
Dropping down into Corvara
We never got to see this Friday or Saturday.
Small town nestled between the Dolomite groups
A perfect "drive-by" shot of Corvara
Back after a long drive, a nice cold beer !
Here's a view I could get comfortable with ... except for the cast !
Michael is resting his arms (well, the left one) after being Mario Andretti all day on these tiny winding roads
Corvara, looking slightly west.
My new Whisky-drinking friends... the Old Man and Sotara.
Notice how my old friend, Jack Daniels, makes it into the picture... Thanks Diego !
Around the corner, not 10 minutes from Corvara, is the Marmolada group, with 4800ft vertical of skiing, topped off at 34
The higher we go, the more mountains appear in the distance.
Time to modify these casts. I can't stand, or anything, I can only crawl, and I'm DONE with that !
Michael der schuhster-meister (shoemaker-master) hard at work crafting new heels out of climbing tape and cardboard (fro
Done with fabrication, now we go into final installation.
West edge of the Sella group
On the road to Verona, there's this huge castle right in the side of the cliff
Italian Road Travel Kit.
Hey Michael, show us why the ladies think you are so popular ?
Gourmet, Gas Station sandwiches and Coke... Mmmm !
We drove for 6 hours to get to Rome. This is just outside the city limits
Big Rock Clinic 23-SEP-2009
Packed and Ready, 7am. Hey, What ? Where'd those fishing poles come from ? This is a climbing clinic !
Shirley and Scott roll up in Shirley's new ride ... NICE !
There's a lot of BEEF in this picture ! rt to left, Mason, Deric, Troy and your's truly.
Ok. FINALLY Sandra and crew arrive. "Let's get MOVIN'!", sez the Sarge.
Clinic begins. First, we talk about safety and the "Power of Two"
Everyone is completely captivated. Pictured, Shirley, Scott B. and his daughter Emily, and Mason's just waking up.
Clinic continues. Bricia, Joaquin, Patty, Troy, Scott B and Emily.
"This is a Quick Draw, or QD, or Draw. It protects my ass !"
We tie into our harness like this with a Follow Figure 8.
"Oh, did I mention, this saves my ass !" and it will save yours too.
Hey, look at the airplane ! Just kidding.
Eric (19), front row student, and future Search and Rescue dude, pays close attention.
Hey, look at the airplane ! Just kidding again. Pictured, Tim, Joaquin, Sandra, Eric and Bricia.
Alright already. Sheesh, stop talking ! When to we get to CLIMB, Sarge ?
We broke up into 3 teams, and everyone tied their own Follow 8's, under the direction of the team leaders. Here, Troy's
Shirley and Patty and Troy.
Well Brett, did you learn anything in the clinic ? "I want to go fishing now, please"
Lots of gear, lots of TOYS ! Let's get started ! Sandy and Eric are very proud of their knots, and Deric is thinking it
Patty (Sandra's Patty) hasn't quite got the nerve to climb, and this is her 3rd clinic ! She was present 2 years ago whe
Sandra's getting her game face on, ready to lead African Flake (5.6). We run 2 pitches together, 180 feet. for a fun, lo
There goes Spiderman-girl, with EVERYBODY watching. Hmm. this might be a REALLY bad time to fall, Sandra !
GQ Troy, posing at the route map sign. Check out the guns ! Ladies, can you say man-beef ?
Sandra's on the run, staying calm and cool, making it look real easy...
I'm talking to Eric, showing him how to belay, cuz he's going to belay Troy on another rope.
Sandra tops out. She trailed a 2nd rope, will tie a Double Fishermans thru the chains, and rappel.
On rappel, Sandra "cleans" the route (picking up the gear she used to protect herself on the way up)
Safely back on Mother Earth, she receives a round of applause from all the clinic trainees. Scott B's Emily, can't wait
Deric is pumped, and is the first Guinea Pig.
Hey, I'll just run up this thing like Sandra did. Holy Cow, it is WAY HARDER than it looks !!
Deric FINALLY calms down, takes the coaching, and starts to finesse it a bit, stepping "gingerly".
A closeup shows Deric winning the battle over his inner "oh know I'm going to fall" demons.
A different angle.
Sweet Victory, 18 stories up !
And little Em takes to the rock.
Troy has his team up and rolling on Puppy Love (5.5)
The climbing team of Arambula and Arambula tie in, hitch up and ...
... launch ! Bricia seems like a natural, like Sandra was 2 years ago.
Sandy takes the rock. It took her a while to trust her feet.
Persistence (and listening to the coaching" pays, Sanday is moving with confidence.
Up she goes.
Tim is belaying Sandy. Scott and Tim talk about his climb on Troy's rope.
Big Rock is a great place to learn. Picnic tables, shade, potties, and of course ROCK !
Sandy is coming down, and her son Brett is going up.
Great Family Fun !
Ah dad, when is it going to be MY turn ?
Patience Master Luke, sez Obi-wan.
Sandy tried to talk Brett into finishing, but that didn't quite work.
Mason is on the move.
A close up shows him workin' it
Sandra and sis Bricia discuss strategy for Joaquin.
Sandra is showing Bricia how to belay her son.
And up goes the little monkey, belayed by Mom.
Kids are such natural climbers. They figure things out fast.
Troy comes over from his rope.
Dad, that was SOOO FUN !
Deric looks ready to go again.
AND, Patty is giving it a 2nd go, belayed by Tim (the Sarge)
Alright Patty ! Great job ! "Can I come down now Tim?" No way, not til you reach the top !!
You can do it Patty, You can do it !
Patty gave it an awesome effort, and loves to get lowered. Sez it's fun !
Bricia, back for more. Just like her Big Sis, Sandra.
OK. My turn (FINALLY !)
Up, up and away.
Victory. Everyone packs up while I rig for rappel.
Hey Tim, quite farting around and get down !
Yes boss !
Well kids, did we have a freakin' great time or what ?
Group shot, less Eric, Patty, Scott B, Scott H, Shirley and Emily.
And of COURSE, after Newbie Clinics, we go for tacos and beers and margaritas !
Yes, my son Mason, ate BOTH of these huge burritos.
Tahquitz - El Whampo JUN-2009
Looking up at El Whampo (5.7), with an uber-classic 2nd pitch
This is the route we took. The red squares are where we belayed, including a hanging belay !
Sandra's looking to get back her MOJO, but looking up here is intimidating !
Looking up the gully that leads up to the huge dihedral
We put the shoes on and roped up her, to avoid doing this steep section in approach shoes.
Lower half here is the huge roof of El Grandote (5.9). Go halfway up the corner, then climb onto the ridge before you ge
Looks like Sandra found her MOJO, probably it was hidden in the bottom of her pack !
Sandra has first pitch, with me on belay. Don't you just love my new red shirt ?
Sandra's on the move ... just like old times !
Looking up into the huge dihedral in the background
Zoom in, mid first pitch
Once at the first belay, some folks who gave us a route map of El Whampo, are over on Grace Slick (5.10b). It looked thi
This crack is the ABSOLUTE MONEY PITCH ! A nice 150ft 2" splitter all the way ! An "easy swim" all the way up for a crac
This route is worth doing just for this pitch alone. Crack Whores UNITE !
I got a shot off of Sandra at the P1 belay in the corner of the Huge Dihedral (btw, that's what all the books call it, t
Here's a shot from the P1 belay looking up at someone nearing the top of the 2" crack of P2.
Now THAT'S what a Happy Camper looks like. That pitch was AWESOME !
OK, Sandra's turn. Stepping off the P1 belay is a little scary, cuz it's a 5.7 face traverse, with a nice pendulum fall
Sandra's in the crack, swimming her way up.
Nearing the top, getting into a nice hands-in, both-feet-out section, solid 5.7
Sandra's ready for lunch after some heavy grunting.
Ahhh, reach for the chocolate bar !
Me, on the move above the P2 belay ledge.
Unfortunately, going up was right into the sun.
I'm headed for this huge overhang. I'll deal with that when I get there.
Here's the big overhang. Basically a big freakin' wall. The best way is to go around it to the right.
I ran to the end of the rope, so I constructed a hanging belay, somewhere above this awesome 5.7 8-foot roof. Sandra too
Little Red Climbing Hood, slingin' rope....
Team photo at the end. Hey Sandra, Hey Tim, NICE HELMET HAIR !
Driving down the mountain after tacos... (oh, and a margarita to wash it down)
Mt. Baldy JUN-2009
June Gloom is down below us, but we're above it all, so beautiful in the mountains.
Right out of the car, we go up 1500' to the top of Pine Mountain (elev. 9648'). Here is Troy and Sandra, just breaking s
First little rest, screwing around being photo whores, and here's the old man cedar that is accommodating us.
Jason (left) and Tim pretend they're monkeys
Ok, time to get moving, sez Jason.
Ok, ok, ONE more picture !
Sandra on the summit of Pine, at about 8:30. Jason and I got there around 8:20.
It's so beautiful up here on the backside.
No June Gloom Here !
Peak No. 2 of 5. This is the top of Mt. Dawson (elev. 9575'), between Pine and Baldy. Great view of our ascent path, up
The proof is in the picture.
Suck in that gut, Tim !
Daddy, are we there yet ? Damn, I just don't remember it being this hard ! 2 of 5 done, 3 to go !
Someone lit a fire under Troy, and he took off, beating me to the summit by 5 minutes ! I tried to catch him, but honest
I'm at the final summit crest, waiting for Jason and Sandra, dragging their tired butts up the final 100 vertical feet.
Here's Sandra, pretending to be fresh for the picture.
"Walk like an Egyptian !"
Victory photo, with the summit plaque as proof. Baldy elev. 10,064'. Yea !
Sandra likes the clouds in the background.
Tim posing with Little Baldy (elev. 9989') in the background.
I snapped this cool updraft on the way down Dawson on our descent, with only 1 more peak to go (a re-visit of Pine)
Tahquitz Larks MAY-2009
Another perfect day above the clouds, morning light on Tahquitz. The crew, ready to roll. But first, SUNSCREEN !
Gear check, a familiar scene before every climb.
The climbing crew today: Eric & Tim will climb, Troy and Sandra will climb.
North trail, Tahquitz peaks thru.
We're all a little surprised to see snow late in the season. Troy enjoys the view.
Holy Cow, we're going to climb WHAT ?
There are SO MANY options and variations on The Larks.
Sandra sez: Hey Troy, let's go up there, then belay there, then up and over there, blah blah blah !"
It's been since November for Eric (Red Rocks) so he might not be feeling the Mojo for a first lead ...
Alright teams, sez Tim the Sarge, Time to get MOVIN' !
Racked, Roped and Ready, Eric snaps this of the Crew.
Eric and I are hitting the shadowed seam in the middle, and Troy and Eric will be far left.
Tim takes first lead, with Eric on belay.
Sandra had first lead, now belays Troy on Pitch 2.
Troy and Sandra are trying out for Climbing Couple of the Year ! Ah SO CUTE ! Note Troy's Helmet Cam !
Troy on 2nd lead. Note to Troy's real girlfriend, I was just kidding about the previous caption !!
The day was so awesome above the clouds, we all had a hard time wiping the smiles off our faces while climbing.
Sandra took this pic, looking down from the top of the 3rd pitch (?)
Jeez that guy (Tim) climbs fast ! I better get a pic of him or I'll never see him again !
Eric, OFF BELAY ! (we're actually going to hit that notch at the top above and right of my head)
Sandra gets a great shot of Troy, Mr. Happy !
Eric is on the move, as Tim's partner
At this spot, I was a SUPER BONEHEAD and dropped my camera. Troy found it later, but dropped it too. :-(
Sandra takes this picture as Eric and I pull away from them. The next time we meet is at the top, BECAUSE, Eric and I cl
Sandra takes a signature foot shot
We topped out at 3. Where are Sandra and Troy ?
I took a nap, and just woke up. Where are Sandra and Troy ?
I can hear them down there in the final chute. Hey you guys, get your butts MOVING ! I sound like a sargeant
Finally, Sandra pops up.
Eric snapped this right as Troy popped up. Pretty Hilarious.
I don't know about you, but Troy looks pretty darn happy to have topped out !
Sandra and Eric, summit.
Sandra and Tim, summit.
The climbing team of Sandra and Troy. Victory Circle. Tahquitz Summit, Idyllwild, CA, USA.
Alright teams, let's get a move on ! Time for tacos and margaritas ! (ps. Why do I look so gay in this picture ?) Just a rhetorical question...
Tahquitz Long Climb MAY-2009
Friday of Memorial Day weekend, Sandra and I decided to climb hard. Here's her signature nail-biter.
Down by the sign at Humer, we're racked and ready to do The Long Climb (5.8)
A refresher in the snow at the base.
Jeez Tim, do you have enough friggin' gear ?
Sandra poses, wondering why there's still snow here. Can you say, North Facing ?
Alright. Let's quite screwing around.
Ready ? Let's go git'r'done !
Tim takes first lead, the nice 5.8 vertical hand crack. Sweet lead !
Sandra snaps this. Sandra will lead the 2nd pitch, the famous "Mummy Crack". The book sez 5.7+ but it was awkward and st
Sandra after 2 pitches. She took 2 HOURS to lead the "Mummy Crack" pitch, and she is WIPED OUT.
I lead us out the next 5 pitches that we linked in 3, for a great view with awesome weather. It was nice to get into the
Sandra enjoying the fact that the climb is over, and that we're in the sun. Woo hoo !
Ditto for me !
Alright, time to pack our toys and go have a beer, it's just under 1.5 hours back to the car.
Re-racked, roped and in more comfortable shoes.
It REALLY IS beautiful up here.
Hey Sandra, get your tired butt movin' !
Yes, we all carry headlamps (right team ?), but thankfully we beat the darkness, but just barely.
Guess we're not looking so fresh now, are we !?!? All in all, a GREAT day climbing at my favorite crag.
Riv. Rock Quarry 29-MAR-2009
After getting pitched 2 weeks earlier, Sandra tries again back on lead of Fetal Attraction (5.8)
Sandra taking a breather (hasn't sent this one yet !)
A closeup of Sandra working her feet
Trying ALL SORTS OF THINGS to power thru this blank section. Actually, this route favors gorilla arms (like my 36"-ers)
Such determination !
Sandra applies her own UNIQUE style (Something tells me you WON'T find this move in the how-to manuals !)
Well, not this time Sandra ... My turn ! (Tim chalks up with Jason on belay)
Ah, the semi-urban landscape ... GRAFITTI !
Tim continues on the "alternate" start
Looks like this will be a victory for the boys !
RRQ#2. (17).jpg 2009-03-27
Hmmm ... looks pretty blank up there !
Tim high in the corner
Jason's turn. Did he ever tell you he has climbed with Chris Sharma ! If he hasn't, he will !
Jason pulling some nice 5.10b moves ...
Just a matter of time before the chains ...
Nice finish !
Just another day on belay !
Sandra, back on top rope, pulling the moves that stumped her on lead
This is Jason, looking strong on either 10b or 10a (I'll have to check the book)
This was the 5.10a crux, step, reach, and PULL !
Finishing the crux
I think I'm pantamiming the crux sequences for some unknown 5.13d route !
Jason horsing around. Next time we go, we hit that jagged 5.9 crack in the left side of the pick. It's an Offwidth arm-s
Jason cruising above the crux
Riverside Rock Quarry 15-MAR-2009
View from the street ... steep and imposing !
RRQ Mar2009 (1).jpg
Look closely and you can see other climbers (look for the white dots in the middle of the pic)
RRQ Mar2009 (2).jpg
McKenna (foreground) and Camden (background) attack the rock right away
RRQ Mar2009 (4).jpg
Tim gets ready. We got to park right at the base of the climb... tailgait climbing ! (Jason's Volvo behind the Excursion)
RRQ Mar2009 (5).jpg
Nice grafitti ... NOT !
RRQ Mar2009 (6).jpg
Sandra stretches for the main event
RRQ Mar2009 (7).jpg
The first route. The book sez 5.9, but, well, more on that later !
RRQ Mar2009 (8).jpg
Camden warms up bouldering
RRQ Mar2009 (13).jpg
Cam power-crimps down low ...
RRQ Mar2009 (14).jpg
Tim goes first ... SUCKER !
RRQ Mar2009 (15).jpg
Plenty of trouble for everyone to get into. Bring the whole family !
RRQ Mar2009 (16).jpg
Damn. This is hard ! It looked so EASY from down below ...
RRQ Mar2009 (19).jpg
OK. One last try.
RRQ Mar2009 (21).jpg
I guess we better let the "girl" do it ...
RRQ Mar2009 (22).jpg
So far, so good. Sandra has a nice start.
RRQ Mar2009 (23).jpg
OH NOOOO ! She just had her VERY FIRST FALL EVER !! Well, Sandra, it had to happen some time ! Congrats on only hurting your ankle and your ego !
RRQ Mar2009 (26).jpg
McKenna gives it a go. Girl Power #2 hits the rock.
RRQ Mar2009 (28).jpg
Daddy Jason is so proud ! Go McKenna, GO !
RRQ Mar2009 (31).jpg
Not bad, but, no luck, no send.
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OK, Tim tries a different approach cuz he HATES to get skunked by the rock.
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Chalk up in the corner
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Cruise out hanging onto what the book calls the "Scary Flake". I'm here to tell you that YES, it is a SCARY FLAKE.
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Gingerly cruising out to the corner
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Here's Tim doing his patented "Head Jam/Head Wedge/Head ACHE !" move. Kids, don't try this at home !
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Peek-a-boo, I see you, you little cracker jack crack !
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Ah, a bomber hand jam, just in time !
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Help, Mommy, I think I'm STUCK !
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Just a few more grunts !
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I can see the light !
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Woo Hoo !
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Hey Jason, I'm getting ready to pop off here, so PLEASE PLEASE catch me daddy !
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Woooo ! Tim takes the elevator down, the FAST way !
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Oh No ! I think Tim is DEAD ! Did Jason drop him on this fall ?
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Oh no, I think I killed him ! He's not breathing !
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So sad, so tragic. Tim was SUCH a COOL DUDE.
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JUST KIDDING ! I was breathing hard cuz my arms were so pumped and flamed for taking way too long on that corner.
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Jason's turn. He climbs with Chris Sharma and is a 5.11a sport climber. SO, he should be able to RUN up this thing !
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Oops, this is pretty hard ! Tim, Take ! Take !
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Hey, let's go find something easier. We need a victory here !
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OK. Next route. Fetal Attraction (5.8), Thin face moves all the way to the chains.
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Sandra, fresh from her first fall, hits the rock on lead, hesitates, and gets skunked, right off the first bolt ! Better luck next time, Twinkle Toes !
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Camden gives it a go...
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Jason powers up "the move", which is a very insecure side-pull crimpy thing that eats the finger tips.
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Up up and away
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Check this weather... perfect ! partly cloudy, probably 75 degrees.
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Jason nears the top.
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Check out Sandra in the middle, on the move.
San Gorgonio hike in the snow !
Taken in Forest Falls, at the trailhead. Snow everywhere !
I look happy now, but you should see this whipped puppy at the end of the day !
On the way up, just boots here.
Top sign, top of the first steep section, we did it in 25 minutes. Left car at 6:10am
Tim is on the move
Hey Troy, you coming ? or just going to stand there and take gay pictures of me ?
Troy the jokester, picking out his new home after real estate crashes all the way
First stop at Halfway Camp, it's about 7:55am
Going up the "old trail", bypassing all the switchbacks, going straight up the ridge line.
2nd break, in the sun at High Creek Camp at 9:40am
It's pretty nice here in the sun ! It'd be nice to just take a nap. We've been up for 6 hours already
Nice self-portrait with a cheek full of sun flower seeds.
Ansel Adams Troy doing a study in tree shadows
And here's the model ... a nice old man
We're heading up out of high camp, heading up to the upper amphitheatre above the ridge
Troy sez "Hey, this tree is WARM ! Cool !"
Snowshoes on, in the upper amphitheatre, the wind is starting to blow
We're now above just about everything is So. Cal, with about 800' vertical feet to go
Spectacular views for days ! That's Mt. Baldy and the San Gabriels in the distant background
I've got my snowshoes in "climb" mode, with the vertical heal riser engaged.
We're done with the hard part, now to angle up and then to the right of Troy's shoulder in the background
Hey Troy, poke your head out of that hood !
It's HOWLING up here, about 40 mph winds sustained.
Thar she blows ! The final summit blocks about 1/4 mile away
Bingo. Victory. Shazzam ! on the summit with Mt. San Jacinto (elev. 10,804) in the background
Troy almost blew over in this pic !
Time for me to put my jacket on .. Brrrrrr !
By the way, that little gay pink thing around my head keeps my ears warm !
We signed the summit registry
The Chinese in front of us did the little "Hello Kitty" icon.
Troy is getting blown over to the left
Adios summit. We left at 1:30, sumitted at 1:00 sharp
Down the steep part in the upper amphitheatre
This was our FAVORITE section of the whole trip, cuz we practically skied down. Snow was PERFECT
Below High Camp, great panorama
Ansel Troy's exercise in textures and shadows ...
A postcard perfect ending to a 17-mile death march, looking up Mill Creek
Puerto Penasco over New Years
Oh my God ! Marlo driving, Mason riding quads for the first time ever !
And here's the REAL speed demon ! Lindsey
Mason on the big quad on the "Hill"
Hey dad, riding quads is so fun !
Miles of sand, a full tank of gas ... LET'S GO !
Ah, the quadding life ... so good !
My beautiful picture
My beautiful picture
My beautiful picture
My beautiful picture
All my kids on quads, and dad's picture shadow, all on the "Hill"
Self-portrait on high, with the inner bay of Puerto Penasco in the background
This hill is the main hill, the ONLY hill in the area, and therefore is very popular
I walked up to the top of the hill & took a pic on the other side, about 200' down to the water
Nice house on the bay
This is my version of a Dos XX commercial
Out quadding, we found this guy, Mr. Stinky Fishbreath III
He can't be bothered with us during his tanning sessions
Hey dudes ! You're blocking my sun ! sez Mr. Stinky
Kaily doing some mound surfing
And Marlo, getting more style points from the mound surfing judges ... (me !)
Uncle Curtis (my brother) and Lindsey
Can't leave PP shopping district without some crazy metal suns !
and other goo-gaws
Today is my birthday ... Damn, 48 snuck up on my pretty fast !
But I get to hang with my gang, and my rockstar nephew Dillon !
Dillon kicks butt on a juice box !
Here we are starting, Grand Junction Airport, renting a Ford Eclipse
First view of the San Juan range in the Colorado Rockies ... WOOHOO !
The big Hump on the left is Uncompahgre, over 14,000 ft.
View of the "Amphitheatre" and Scott taking a pic of his f-ing monkey
Home Sweet Home for the next 4 days
Yes, it is a Monkey ... and Yes, the stuffed animal is a monkey TOO !
Prelude to Hot Monkey Sex with a Frog !
Scotty is a fireman, so we hooked up a the local Fire Chief and got a tour of the station
Scott just asked if he could see the big fire hose !
Scott on rappel, into the abyss. Our first routes were pretty vertical !
Jason attacks first. DAMN, why did we pick the hardest routes first ? It's been a YEAR since we've ice climbed !
And the view the other direction. We are below the Little Bridge
Jason is finishing up (going pretty slow if you ask me)
Hey Tim, let's see if you remember how to do this stuff !
Pick pick, step step. Easy. Oh, hey, NICE Ice Climbing Boots !
Up I go
This puzzle needs figuring out
This is Libby. She tossed her rope over, comes flying down. Pamon sez, "I suppose you think you're going to outclimb da boyz, here!"
And her climbing partner (in red helmet) sez, "Oh, you can COUNT on THAT !"
Well, seeing is believing. Oh, by the way, her competition ice boots cost more than everything I was wearing !
AND, did I mention that this is a MIXED climb ? (grade M6) In other words, PRETTY HARD !
She's sticking these moves pretty well in fine form ...
Oh, and also, this is WAY above my grade !
Nearing the top, and the little ice patch
I guess I better get a shot of Jason while Libby is climbing
There's Pamon, Scott and Jason. I went up top to catch Libby's finish
Here's some tough mantle moves
Double Claws ! Meeeoooowwww !
Nice crossed arms
Still looking strong at the finish
Few more moves (she's tired)
3 more steps
After lunch, just Jason and I on 2nd shift. Scott was WAY HUNG OVER and Pamon was finding some courage
Hey dude, SMILE ! You're having fun, right ?
Jason & I on the way out, by the sign above the Big Bridge.
Chicks with Picks Auction. I bought a harness for $20 and made tons of new friends
Home sweet home, Comfort Inn style
The crew at breakfast. The camera woman was naked, so Jason's face kinda froze !
This is a shot across the ravine, where we climbed YESTERDAY
Day 2, started out a little easier for Pamon and Hangover Boy to get some courage
Are knees more grippy on ice than those crampons you're wearing ?
Great shot of the route from the bottom, kinda of a mixed start.
Lots of cool energy here
Don't you just LOVE ice climbing ?
This guy hanging down broke off the bottom of a free standing icicle he was climbing, and got stuck hanging. He couldn't get his feet up !
See him with the Thigh Grip ? not much grip there, pal !
Help ! Mr. Wizzard ! Eventually, he muscled up with his arms, then just barely caught a foot and made it out
White sleeves day, Tim attackes a nice long climb
Hmm. Where to go. How about UP !
Nice form !
And SUCCESS !
Jason goes up the other side
Smile for the camera !
Yes, me and the MONKEY are sharing a quiet moment in an ice cave !
My turn to climb the other side
This was FUN !
Just stay focused. Little drops of water were coming off the top
Lots of features here to exploit
THis pic shows the scale a little better
There's Tim, the little tan DOT
And success ... OF COURSE !
Gots to have the smiley group shot !
Yes, after a couple of Vodka Tonics at the room, time for the Hot Springs Spa !
Pool is 96 deg, and the section in the distance is 105 deg.
Now THERE'S a happy relaxed dude. See ?
Went to Hutch's place for some micro beer that he makes. This is our waitress !
Here's the bar. We just ordered pizza. Who'd have thought, pizza and beer ...
Day 3, Pamon surveying the danglies
Yep. It's dead vertical
This area provided us with 3 climbs, all awesome. Jason goes first
He said his arms were tired. Awww.
But manages a smile and a wave for the crowd anyways.
This section was awesome. Like a chandelier, everying was coming off every kick, and every hit with the ice tools
Nice form !
This section is new this year, just below the water pipe bridge
Shake off those cobwebs
Who's Your Daddy ?
Jason on the move
Ooooo. I 'm scared ! Help me Daddy !
This section on the left was AWESOME
If I fall, I'll pendulum to the left !
This is one of my favorites now
Nearing the top
Jason is lowering me. Did I ever mention that you have to pick the right climbing partners ? Jason, make sure you don't lower me into those icicles !
Oh, the pain, the horror !
Count Ice-cula, killed with an icicle thru the heart ! (he was a cold-hearted bastard, anyways)
Resurected, ready to climb again
I'm going to go over to the free-standing waterfall on my right ! (ya, right) YES !
Over to the right
Yes, I made it
Whew, that was hard ! I need a rest !
Nice shot with the water pipe bridge
Yes, it really IS that vertical, boys and girls
Final crawl out of there
But first I have to squeeze thru this ice chimney
Look at all the ice flying off my feet from kicking in.
Ahhhh-Soooo. TOTO-CON-CEN-TWA-TION !
Kicking and Picking !
and, the final butt shot on top-out
Second shift, after lunch. Pamon opted out, and once again, Just me an the Doc
Down at the bottom. Here, we walked way up the canyon for some new stuff
Big walls of ice.... YEA !
No climbing photos, just a couple more routes, then these top shots
Guess who ?
What would my pics be if there weren't any self-portraits ?
Final 5pm shot of the Amphitheatre. Next year, I'm going to take and extra day and do this traverse solo.
You can't see it but I'm drinking a monster huge Vodka Tonic. We had to kill the bottle cuz it was the last night
Hooked up with Mark Allen (our IMG Mr. Rainier Guide) He invited us to dinner. He's Jason drinking the blue girly-man drink
This photo does not even BEGIN to indicate how drunk we are ! (pssst, I got cut off from the bar that night !) That's Brad, Mark's client in the lower right
Flying home, I got this shot of Red Rocks outside of Vegas.
Snow in Corona & Santiago Peak
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Up Bedford Canyon, from Eagle Glen Golf Cours
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You can have an alpine experience in your backyard !
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This is pretty enough to be a puzzle !
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This is the ridge above Bedford Canyon, the comes into Eagle Glen
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Wilson Elementary School in the heart of Eagle Glen.
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Bedford Canyon, taken across from the Stater Brothers.
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A look up to the hills ... this gives me the SHAKES ! I GOTTA GO UP THERE !
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These hills are from the OTHER side of the 15, above Lake Mathews. This is Estelle Mountain, Elev. ~2800 ft.
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On the drive to work, looking up toward Pleasant Peaks, elev. ~3950 ft.
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So, on Saturday (DEC-20) I had to go up and "get some" ! This is sunrise, about 7:15.
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This is a view toward my destination, Santiago Peak (not visible) with Modjeska Peak elev. 5496 visible on skyline, center left.
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Looking back, sunrise on the San Gabriel range.
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People came up here to snowboat down the hills and play in the snow.
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Here's my version ... hit the trail !
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This is the where the Bedford Motorway hist the Main Divide Trail, elev. 3600' about 7.5 miles from where I started.
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Last vehicle tracks about 1/2 mile on the Main Divide.
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First tracks, and only tracks, the way I like it.
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Snow in Corona 034.jpg 2008-12-21
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Just got to keep pounding the trail !
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Whew, it's a lot of work in 1 1/2 to 2 feet of snow !
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There's my target, but I should have turned back by now. It's still about 7 miles from here ! (and I didn't know that)
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This the confluence of the Maple Springs Rd, the Harding Truck Trail and the Main Divide Trail meet, elev. 4550 ft. Oh, and I'm totally beat ! 6 miles to go !
I didn't take this pic, but this is kinda the view from where I was. There was WAY MORE SNOW on the summit (I kinda wish I had taken the pic, now)
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Made it to the summit, right at sunset. Sorry, no pic. But got into the AT&T tower building, and dried my sox in the oven !
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Preparing to bivy for the night, I put the bed by the oven in the kitchen.
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Home sweet home for the night. Plan is to head down into Trilogy area in the morning and have my dad drive me back to my car.
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BUT ... My wife got on the phone and convinced these guys (OC Sheriff Dept) that I was in trouble and needed saving. So when they showed up, I had to leave.
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This is going to be my 2nd helicopter ride ever !
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Back in Orange County, down where's there's no snow
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I'm waiting for my ride in the Sheriff's cafeteria.
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Here's my gear !
Red Rocks NOV-2008
This is our view of First Creek Canyon, ride from the car
The gang is all excited, and clowns around, anxious to climb
da WHOLE crew. Picture was taken my Nikki, Kelly's new bride
The hike in, about 2 miles or so
This place is insanely gorgeous
Eric poses with the Wild Burros in the background. There all just a bunch of asses, if you ask me !
Lounging around, doin' the wild burro thing
Off the wide trail, now we're following the climber's use trail
Our target is dead ahead. We're here for Lotta Balls
Sandra and Eddie stop for a click or 2
These are our routes, with 2 teams already on the wall
Racked and ready, Eddie and I get our ropes together
Sandra took this pic of Troy, coming up to belay her on her P1 5.8 lead
The start of Black Magic (5.8) was made for Jason's power
Tim pauses just after exiting the chimney on P1 of Lotta Balls (5.8)
Jason works the lower sequence of Black Magic
Sandra prepares to start her P1 lead of Tryhardral (5.8)
I took this shot of the team of Sandra and Troy, with Sandra stitching it up like Betsy Ross !
Sandra hugs the wall
Closeup of the wall hugger, making her moves count
Sandra cruising in the vertical world
I didn't tell her that this was her first 5.8 lead (I thought I'd save that for after she was done !)
Hey Sandra, look over here !
Me at the P1 belay of Lotta Balls. I have no idea what kind of face this is !
nor this face ! Troy unlocks the sequences as he cleans gear
Eddie negotiating the crack and working his body movement up to the arete
Now THIS is pure beauty ! Bomber, baby, bomber !
Kelly next door on Black Magic, following Jason
"How the hell did Jason get up this thing?" inquires Kelly
Eddie is in the crux of P2, dancing on the balls
Sandra awaits for Troy's arrival to the P1 belay
Troy works the face with good footwork
Sandra and Troy smile it up at the P1 belay
Troy on lead of P2 of Tryhardral
Great shot by Sandra from the P1 belay
Next door on Lotta Balls, Eric and Ed watch as time navigates the little balls
Troy is grunting his way up the dihedral (corner)
Jason and Kelly are at the top of P1 of Black Magic
Eric finally gets his turn
Firing the top of the chimney, hitting the awkward section
A cool shot to the ground. It's straight down
The business end of this pitch is now over
Finally happy to be hanging on the belay. "Let's get movin'!" sez Sargeant Tim
Eric leaned over and shot this Climbing magazine cover shot (execpt it's a bit blurry)
I'm up past the steep smooth face with the little balls
Now THIS is a proper bendover.
Jason nears the top of P2 of Black Magic
Picking his pro carefully
How about a wave to your fans ? Silly boy.
Jason clipped to the P2 anchor
Yes, we know you're still alive.
Troy dropped his camera in the crack to the left, and fished it out with a sling and a nut tool. Can you say "Ansel is Happy"?
Climbs across the way
This is one of the best pics of the whole trip, and no doubt will be Troys computer wallpaper shot !
Sandra cruising P2 of Tryhardral
Ed is in the crux P2 section, with Eric at the belay below
Listen, you can almost hear him grunting !
Kelly cruising up P2 of Black Magic
Hey ! Smile !
Ed approaches P2 belay
Eric in tow
Ed thinking about the universe, with Kelly and Jason above and behind
Eric finishes P2, huffing and puffing, loving the calf burn !
Sandra is loving the vertical world
Jason and Kelly decided to bail, so Kelly leads the rappel
His slings look sloppy !! Yes, I said that !
Joshua Tree OCT-2008
The gang is all here !
Ansel Adams Troy is ready to capture the moments !
Hey, who's your buddy ?
Team Excursion poses for a pre-climb picture
Team Mustang with a Team Excursion member ... Everyone looks fresh !
OK you lazies, let's get it going ! Round up your gear !
Our destination is the Nuclear Reactor Rock
It's a short 1/2 hike in from the cars
Here at last, still in the shade (but not for long). Ed & Eric survey the challege.\
Mason and Karina, the Boulder Hoppers + Eric
Wow, look at all the pretty gear !
Here, Sandra, can I get that for you ? I'm so strong and you're so delicate !
My Top-Rope helpers, all ready to go.
Wow, that is some colorful gear ! Can I touch it ?
"Are you sure you don't want me to carry your pack Sandra ?" sez Eddie. "No, Tim will get mad. He makes me carry everything !" sez Sandra
Mason the Boulder Hopper and Big Daddy head up
The view is totall insane. Check out the boulder field for miles and miles
Ok Tim, you get the gear ready. Sandra, you fix your hair. Do you need a mirror ?
Class is in session ! (Top-Rope class)
Yes it is true ... I look EXACTLY like John Wayne !
Eddie studies carefully, making sure I don't screw it up !
Can anyone say, Insane View for Miles ?
One crack, MANY cams ! (and so colorful, too !)
Cowboy Tim demonstrates how to construct a 3-piece equalized power point anchor with backup
Detail view of the gear
Sandra, Eddie and Troy look on in earnst. Kinda.
Eric snapped this with his telefoto from below.
We're all glad Karina looks like her mother (and not Eric !)
Sandra warms up by clowning around
Sandra the Shutterbug enjoys the view
We setup 3 top-ropes so we could all climb different routes all day
Eddie's the guinea pig we'll use to test the rigging !
Into the void ! Hey Ed, don't forget that rappelling is FUN !
Troy get ready to rap down from station number 2
Hey Sandra, can we have 2 tickets to the "Gun Show" ?
Sandra raps down from station number 3
Into the void !
Eddie goes first, all anxious to get-it-on, with Sandra on belay
Eddie swims the crack like a true crack whore ...
Eric hits the white dike with Eddie in the background
Ed powers up to the end of the crack
Eric enters the slippery dike zone, Ed is just about in trouble !
This pic was taken after Ed's flamboyant fall, all of about 1 foot in length, but the whole valley could hear him !
Eric approaches steeper terrain
Daddy Long Legs in the House !
Keep going up, guys !
Sandra jumps on, making it looks easy
Great footwork and a cool head propel her up (unlike Ed !)
Right about here, it starts to get scary
Notice the care of the footwork. It's all about the feet
Who's bad NOW, boys ?
Second showing of Sandra's Gun Show !
Dad double-checks his precious baby girl !
This is Karina's last non-climber photo ever !
Sandra counsels Mason that yes, he too, can climb if a GIRL can, he can !
Blast off (with a SLIGHT assist from Dad)
Karina hangs on, with encouragement from Eric, gain more confidence with each step
Near the top, victory seems imminent !
YES !!!! Check out that smile, people !
Mason was watching Karina the whole time
Daddy Tim checks Mason's rigging before he steps on
We double-back the buckle so there's no slip ups
I can FEEL the anxiety, fear and EXCITEMENT @
And up he goes ! His feet are the same size as Eric's !
Mmmmm, this is harder than it looks !
Guess I better chalk up !
Mason is a fast learner, using nice high steps and good feet smearing
After making it to the top, leaning back is the scariest thing to do
Mason had an audience ...
Wow, dad, that was fun ! Is THIS what you guys do when you go climbing ?
Now THERE'S a couple of handsome studs !
Time for Tim to shut up and start climbing !
Now HERE'S the REAL Gun Show ! (well, maybe not like Eddie's !)
This crew looks hungry ! Time for lunch
Yes, a picnic in the shade. Cheese, crackers, turkey sandwiches and beer
The perfect spot
Troy captures Sandra in a supermodel pose
Feast is almost over
Mason strikes and anime video game pose
Ansel Adams Troy becomes the subject of a pic for a change
The "girls" showing some Girl Power
I think Mason has a crush on Karina. Watch out Eric !
Notice the sandwich in the right hand
Lunch is done, time to climb. Come on Ed, sez Sandra, let's GO !
Up she goes, working the crack
Stepping up, working the feet
Great shot of 1/2 of Team B/E Aerospace
I think this shot is self-explanatory !
Sandra's in the pocket, and Ed's on the Elevator
Sandra's showing some composure, up where it is very thin
Getting ready to "pull the roof"
Roof sequence 2
Roof sequence 3
End of the roof
Eric is literally RUNNING up this crack
Yes, he's still running ! 30 feet in 15 seconds
And then he'll run out of crack. Eric is proud to be a crack whore !
Troy runs up to get a wall shot of Eric
We call this "Troy's Variation", a route between routes
Troy the Speed Cliimber
Pulling the sequence
Pulling up, almost there
Who's the bomb, boys ? ME, you DA's !!!!
Troy captures a wall shot of Eric
My turn on the 5.9 face
Troy got this shot from above, approaching the roof
There's the magic undercling
Hey Sandra, did you see my awesome footwork ? "Ya, right", sez Sandra
Eddie hitting the 5.9 smooth face
He's starting to look like a rock climber !
See ? I told you !
Working the roof undercling
Time to get these damn shoes off, it's quitting time
Some of the climbing crew
Sugarloaf Solo 11-OCT-2008
Got a little snow on the Beast overnight !
Snowed 2-3", enough to cover the slopes of Bear Mountain
Midway Hut, just below the Geronimo Chairlift, showing good coverage
Man and Nature ... my boot print and a rabbit, who was up earlier than me !
Love this silouette of sunrise, just behind the gnarled tree
Upslope view of Big Bear Lake
Looking up towards the top of Bear Peak elev. 8805', highest peak serviced by chairlifts in SoCal.
On top of Bear Peak, looking south the top of San Gorgonio, elev. 11,504'
There's my target, Sugarloaf, about 4 1/2 miles away
Closing in on the Loaf, it looks more rounded.
Couldn't resist this shot of San G in the clear morning sun
Summit marker. It really is a quite UN-spectacular summit.
Not a cloud in the sky. BTW, it's about 28 degrees.
Old summit sign, looking a little beaten up.
Poor Tim ... nobody around to take my picture except ME !
My summit post, from the can below the old summit sign.
Back below Bear Peak, at the edge of the ski boundary, Sugarloaf is framed quite nicely
Back at my cabin, we have some avian visitors enjoying some peanuts placed on the rail. What a view !
Gang-of-4 Northwest Buttress 20-SEP-2008
Sandra has her new Camelbak, and can't wait to start
Loaded up with gear, ready to lead first pitch
I'm on the 2nd pitch, with Jason and Melissa on The Error (5.6) right next to us
Sandra coming up P2 after a fun slippery lichen covered face, weaving around the bushes
This is about all the sun we're going to get today, just little pieces
Melissa just grunted up P4 of The Error, quite a strenuous pitch
Jason's trying to figure out P5, up the straight vertical left-leaning body-swallowing crack
He's approaching the "awkward" section that took him 15 minutes to get out of
Listen carefully... you can almost hear the grunts, the groans and the CUSSING ! Don't tell McKenna !
This section is kind of a Rubik's Cube, a real puzzler
Sandra's tied to the tree, watching me twinkle-toe across the 30' steep 5.7 face section
And Jason is ALMOST out, but first, the 3-step roof !
He's out, hugging the arete, and 3 steps away from the corner
Time for Sandra to cross this blank face traverse. A fall here would be a 30-foot pendulum whipper !
She made it, shaking all the way. She HATES steep traverses, but now she's motoring up the security of the crack
A GREAT day climbing, as this Team photo suggests. It was Melissa's VERY FIRST multi-pitch trad route, & she's stoked !
The Northwest Buttress (5.7) route is on the shadow line
S&T&E - The Error - Tahquitz
5:45am at Denny's. Drinking coffee and READY !
Ed looks a little, uh, how you say, SCARED !
First glimpse of the little piece of granite
Pajama Boy and Cycle Dude check out the line
Gear Check... If you don't bring it, you don't have it !
Aw, isn't that cute ? Tim's helping Eddie
Now THERE is a handsome man ! (you get to pick which one)
"Sandra, I don't want to die today !"
"You won't die, Ed, Tim will keep us safe !"
Just beginning to hit the trail, about 600 vertical feet
The "fighters" tape up before the granite crack attack
Final double check (everyone checks each other's rigging)
Sandra has first lead... Ed is in "awe"
There she goes, motoring up the crack
The route, The Error, goes straight up the middle of the screen, around the bulgy roof to the right
Our route is hilited in red above Sandra
Sandra is a "cracK" whore ... the good kind !
Up she goes ... Ed can't believe it ...
Now THAT is the TRUE face of FEAR ... "Tim, is it too late to quit ?"
"I'm still alive !!! I'm still alive !"
Ed's on the move, and no longer in fear's grip
Nothing like a self-portrait. I am SO entertained taking newbies !
Eddie's up high, approaching first belay ledge where Sandra is
Nice footwork Ed !
I motored up, and interviewed Ed. Ed sez, "That was easy !" Ya, cuz it was 5.2
Sandra set up the belay anchor for Ed and I to come up
Hey, act like you're having FUN !
Snapped this shot of the P1 belay going up the 2-crack ramp to the crux
I just crested the 5.6 crux on pitch 2, got out of the corner onto the arete
Sandra huffing and puffing up P2 where the crux was
Part 2 of the sequence
Part 3 of the sequence. Sandra's lead now on Pitch 3
Signature feet + rigging
Sandra's game face
Sandra lead P3 with Eddie moving up the awkward corner
Sandra's at the base of the vertical crack of P4 that I'll lead
Ed managing the awkward dihedral
Hey, hurry up, it's cold down here ! You guys having a tea party ?
Zoom in, Tea Party in progress
I lead P4, which was a grunter. Ed looks wiped !
I'm still ALIVE ! I'm still ALIVE ! Woo Hoo !
"I seriously can not believe I just did that !"
Time for lunch.. Baby Bells and Triscuits ... MMMMmmm !
It's the Used Car Salesman smirk. I think I look gay there !
P5 is a straight verical right-hand dihedral crack, offwidth with a 3-step roof at the top
Time to move, getting late ...
"I have to climb THAT ?"
I need some pointers
Tim approaches the crack on the far right
It's a funny angle cuz it's pretty vertical
Tim sets some gear before he gets into the crack-corner thing
This is the awkward section
Hey Sandra, cool picture ! Almost out
Approaching the 3-step roof system
Final moves. There's an old piton that I clipped just below this crux
Final Pitch 6, on the way out of this deep chimney
Getting dark, but JUST ENOUGH time for a group summit shot... WOO HOO !
Troy & Tim - Sahara Terror AUG-2008
Troy's first glimpse of the ominous Tahquitz
New sign warning of the dangers of the May Fire
Time to lay out the gear and figure out what goes and what stays ... cuz it's HEAVY
Geez, climbing gear is so COLORFUL ! I want to make my shoes match the 'biners !
Ready to hit the trail (sure, he's all smiley NOW, down where it's safe)
Hey Troy, when I count to 3, do something gay with your hands. 1, 2, 3 !
... but wait until I do my TOUGH CLIMBER look (zoolander)
Enough posing, we got work to do
Ansel Adams Troy on the camera
I sound like a junk yard rattling around when I walk with all the gear
Thar she blo's, captain !
Look, there's our route
These guys were sure friendly
Did I mention it's a pretty good hike to the base ?
Boulder hopping to the base
Getting ready to traverse over
There's the little trail
I think I just might start calling him Ansel Adams Troy !
Hey, which way do we go ? Up, dude, up. Always up. We're climbers, remember ?
Just getting a peek at the Northwest Recess section
Winding our way thru
More Ansel pics
Last little way. I can almost see our route
See Troy, up there is Hard Lark, that's what Sandra and I did.
And there, that tree up there, that's the cafeteria
Geez, climbing gear is so colorful !
More of Hard Lark, and West Lark
But we're going up to Sahara Terror (5.7), a 3 star route
Yep, we're here. Let's shoe up
It feels SO GOOD to take these shoes off at the end of the day
Just about ready. Hey Troy, let's GO Dude !
Can't forget the Brain Bucket
Like a prize figher ready for battle ... game face ... ON !
Geez, I almost forgot the rope ! (nah, not really)
Troy is also the master of the Self-Portrait
On the move, Pitch 1 is a nice warm-up
Troy sez, "Tim, where are you ? Don't leave me !"
Just started Pitch 2, with Troy looking up. There's my signature "foot"
Middle of Pitch 3, Troy tackles the famous "Dog Leg Crack", and looks like a monkey humpin' a football !
I got 4 minutes of video of this, and you can hear me laughing the whole time !
Troy takes his first lead ... Pitch 4.
I think this pic will be his new desktop wallpaper
Top of Pitch 5, which was the sweetest pitch ... 3 sections of 5.7 ... total MONEY, BABY !
Scenery from top of P5 ledge
We stopped to have a snack, 600 feet off the deck
I think Troy is trying to steal my "foot signature"
Awesome weather. 75 deg. No wind, partly cloudy. PERFECT
You can see the parking lot below us
Ansel Adams Troy !
We could watch the clouds building in front of us, and hear thunder behind us
Troy's sloping belay after is P6 lead on "Troy's Variation", way off route, FULL of lichens & moss = SLIPPERY. He says he thought he was gonna DIE on this lead !
Final "staircase" to the top (with cool green and red lichens)
Top of the hill. Hey Tim, nice belly !
The weather was slightly different to the south
Here's a couple of old men ... weathered and spent
Awesome tree root growing right on boulders
Closeup of the root.
No trip is complete without tacos and beer at La Casita !!
Final treat on the way down ... loan rain cell sporting a rainbow !
This was awesome in person
ok, one more shot
Temple Crag JUL-2008
View of the Mt. Whitney (14,497') from the Visitor Center. We stopped by for permits and poopy bags !
It's about 99 deg. with a light breeze. Dave is roasting, and I'm just warming up
Don't let this place fool you ... the food is no good. The best place to eat is the Mexican restaurant INSIDE the Chevro
Trailhead at 7500'. We spent the night "bivvying" in the back of my Excursion.
View up the trail, with the horse stables on the lower right.
Middle Palisade (over 14,000) shows on the skyline left of center.
Self-portrait. Yechhh !
Around the corner, we head north, in the shade. Weather is PERRR-FECT
I turned around and took this pic from whence we came
1st break, above the big waterfall. DAMN, these packs are HEAVY ! (about 75+ lbs. each)
Forest Service lodge/cabin.
1st sight of the mighty Temple Crag. It will dominate us over the next 4 days
Getting closer... I can't wait to get this pack OFF
This is Second Lake. When I first saw it thru the trees, I thought it was the roof of a lodge ! It is soooo Blue/Green
We get our first look at the "Temple". Pretty impressive. How the heck are we going to climb THAT ?
Route lines of the big 3: Venusian Blind, Sun Ribbon Arete and the Moon Goddess Arete. The prominent prow in the front i
Thru the Boulder Field from Hell, we are in the shadow of Dark Star, the crown jewel of the High Sierras, 22 pitches, 20
It looks much better with me out of the way !
Here's a pic of the famous Boulder Field, with Dave muscling his way up
This is looking up at our routes
Found the Playboy Bunny in this snowfield
Took this in camp, sitting on my tired butt, looking up at our route for tomorrow, Moon Goddess Arete (5.8)
These next 2 pics go together, looking up at this behemoth of granite.
Fri. morning, Dave & I, up at 4:30, approach @ 5:30. It's about 6:00 here at rope-up. Left arrow is Dave & my camp, righ
Dave'll lead first. He's setting the belay anchor here.
Dave's up & moving (see arrow)
A couple of pieces are in, and he's moving. This is a LONG route
Willie's across the way, cruising up Venusian Blind, simul-climbing with Clay. Willie's got the camera out, enjoying the
Dave's at the 1st lead belay. He LOVES it when I pull out my camera & snap away !
Dave's down there somewhere. I couldn't resist my "signature" foot shot !
There's Willie !
This looks like a GREAT route along the arete !
Dave leading the 5.7 "Wild Traverse" (just a teensy bit shaky!) After he was done, he looked down & said "Holy cow ! It'
This is the First Tower. The arrow points to the traverse ... Yipes !
There's Willie, cruisin' the Venusian ... Clays there somwhere
... and there's Clay Trager.
Looking down at First Tower. You can kind of sense the thousand foot dropoff ...
Clay and Willie on the move ... UP !
You can spot them on the arete
Self-portrait above the First Tower
Took this above my shoulder, looking a thousand ft. down...
Close to the top, after 15 pitches !
Looking southwest. In the middle is Midde Palisade
The TOP ! Looking southwest
Dave's down there somewhere... We stretched 6 pitches into 3 cuz we were running out of light !
The lower dark rock section is the top of Venusian Blind down below the top of Moon Goddess
This is the view towards the north from the summit
Down the decent gulley below Contact Pass. This is the 2nd boulder field from hell
Not much rest, Willie and I hit the Sun Ribbon the next morning
Willie scouts the best line around the snow field below Sun Ribbon
Just a quick pic up the Sun Ribbon
Willie finesses his way up the awesome first pitch, a combo corner crack chimney thing. NICE !
Willie "spidermans" up the crack. BTW, thanks for burying a green Camalot ! We had a nice philosophical discussion on ca
Took this from the first pitch of Sun Ribbon
Tried to capture the first pitch, looking down mid pitch. The red dot is straight down from where I belayed Willie.
The famous Willie Hunt, racked and ready to roll... we simul-climbed the next 300 ft.
Guess who ? Me, loving climbing with Willie (even after our cam-placement chat), on my rest day
Willie leading the simul after pitch 1
Willie hitting the little head-wall pitch on the tower
Mid-pitch up the little tower that Willie led in the prev. pic.\
The route we finally settled on (in red) was NOT OBVIOUS to find ! (it was the correct route, after all...)
Looking over at the Ibrium Tower, on Moon Goddess that Dave & I did Friday. Route finding cost us about 1.5 - 2 hours (a
Willie weaving a nice vertical line...
I seem to be obsessed w/ the route I did yesterday. The arrow points to the middle of 12. We followed the arete along th
Dave German on lead (at top) with Judy following on the Venusian, 2 aretes away
OMG !! Willie "manning up" to the Tyrolean Traverse (that certainly got ME puckering 3 minutes after this pic) This was
This is the tower were Willie & I lassoed the horn to make the Tyrolean (it took us 6 tries)
This is Tim A., Chad's partner. We met them when Dave & I climbed the Venusion on the last day.
Chad, met him on Venusian. They let us use their dwouble 70m ropes for the 2 rope rap into the gulley at the end of the
Sunday, hiking out. Why does this pack seem HEAVIER ?
Me toppin' out ... Yea !
Me toppin' out on Moon Goddess Arete (5.8)
Dave & I fixed a line thru the snowfield so it would be easy in the morning. The red line shows the route up the ramp to
Found this winter pic off the internet
Big Rock JUL 12-2008
Tim leading African Flake to set top rope, while trailing other rope.
Look at Spiderman go ! (except Sandra saw me step on the bolt hanger...)
WOW, sez Ed. That looks HARD !
Sandra on belay, except she feeds out the rope TOO SLOW !
Alright, much MUCH better !
Hey Eddie, on the count of 3, BLINK ! Hey Bricia, try to act like you like Eddie !
"The Sarge" is all done playing with his rope up top, time to come down.
Rappelling is REALLY fun ... you get to control your own speed of descent.
Back on terra firma, Eddie intently checks Tim's rigging to make sure it's all copacetic...
Jeez, who is that stud in the black tank top ?
Alright, Eddie is a bigger stud ... Hey Eddie, try not to make me look TOO much like a pip squeek ! BTW, you're looking
That's right, see if you can tie the knots that Sandra showed you during the "classroom" portion of the clinic ...
There's Sandra double-checking ("Power of Two") Eddie's rig ... er, uh, rigging ....
Eddie's nerves are max'd to the power of 10 as he gets ready to step on for the first time EVER.
Sandra, posing, belaying Eddie as he struggles to go up the first 8 vertical feet...
"Hey Tim", sez Eddie, "You made it look WAY easier than this ! What's that again, do WHAT with my feet ? Can't I just be
WOW, Eddie !! That looks PRETTY DAMN vertical ! You are Super Fly for a White Guy!
Eddie on the move, reaching the "north shore" of the African Flake...
FINALLY, getting the hang of going vertical ... "Hey, these shoes really work!"
Getting more vertical, now ... he's the little dot over the right edge of the tree on the rock face.
Going vertical is hard work !
Almost there !! Ed sez, "Damn sweat is filling my sunglasses !"
(voice of Austin Powers) "Ya, Baby, YA !!, and I BARELY even broke a sweat !"
There's Sandra laughing at the pictures of Eddie on Steve's camera.
Steve takes the TOP SEAT !
"Sweet VICTORY ! and I'm still ALIVE !!!! WOOOO HOOOOO !", shouts Eddie.
Mt. Rainier JUNE 2008
Jen Mickelson's Awesome Art
(4 media) Bird [small].JPG
(4 media) Bird [small].JPG 2004-06-05
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(4 media) Bird.JPG 2004-06-05
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Jenn self portrait.JPG 2004-06-10
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Toucan [small].jpg 2003-11-13
sphinx .jpg 2004-06-06
Tut [small].jpg 2004-08-17
snake river.jpg 2003-11-22
San G Snow Hike MAY-2008
The crapper at the upper parking lot in Forest Falls
Fresh snow, fresh tracks into parking lot. The morning crew gets ready ...
"Brrrr" sez Bob. "I have to put on this same flannel that I hike in ALL the time"
Greg, Natalya and Tim, posing before we start.
Hol-ee-Cow ! THis is late MAY and there's fresh snow covering Mill Creek.
First self-portrait of the day, at the sign across Mill Creek at the trailhread
Is this WINTER or is the MAY ?
Top of the 1st section. Notice the teensy patch of blue sky at the top
Great meadow shot of Tim. Great shot of finger over lense !
2nd self portrait, taken at breakfast at Halfway Camp
Fresh fuel, breakfast is over: Greg, Tim and Bob.
This pick is on the way to High Camp in the long switchbacks
Here comes Bob, pounding up the slope
Self portrait, showing the conditions
A winter scape of Bob and Greg, having an outside Merrill Lynch meeting
The first section in the upper theatre. Notice the fresh footprints
I passed everyone, now I get to make the fresh tracks to the summit !
My solo footprints behind me... I walk alone ....
The sign to the summit. Notice the blowing plume in upper left portion of pic
Bob and Greg on the summit. We left Natalya at 9000 ft.
Hey Tim, nice pose. What are you trying to be, a pencil ?
View from the summit blocks
Nice view of the ridge just north of the summit
It got clear up top. I'll be walking into the clowd cover
self portrait, showing the summit area from whence I came ...
Trail down from the lower theatre area. Notice the cool clouds.
Love this picture, with the trees and the cloud-eveloped moutains.
I was just up there, shooting a pic down here. Notice how clear it JUST got
We are all BEAT DOGS, but we have full bellies of Tacos and Beer so we're happy!
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Pictures from Tim: Ice Climbing in Ouray
First sign of snow, in Flagstaff at the McDonalds. Time to hit the road.
Jason is angry cuz he wants to drive 100 mph but can't because of...
THIS ! Bummer for the owners ...
Of course, Scott the fireman LOVED this FIRE ! Why is everyone doing nothing ?
On the way to the New Mexico border .... very beautiful
5 miles from New Mexico
Durango airport, where our flight was cancelled INTO. Now I see why...
Looking for our rental car ... under all the snow ...
Durango airport is like a ghost town .. 1 person in the terminal other than us
So we drove to Ouray from Phoenix thru Durango .. and hit the bar in Ouray
Billy Goats Gruff, they had good Jack and Cokes.
Stepped out of the room in the morning and saw this view !
THis place is gorgeous !
It snowed all night. We will eat breakfast under the balcony on the corner
Aw, free breakfast. Eric is on the left, and Pamon on the right.
Here's shy Scott, vocalizing his opinion of Hillary Clinton...
Jason and Tim, the OLD guys. I'm the oldest at 47 years YOUNG !
Not the best day for tanning on the deck. Welcome Ouray Ice Climbers !
Morning sun on the peaks. Our room is 2nd floor, far left under the gable
US 550, on the way to Ridgeway where we rented our ice climbing gear.
The Rogue's Gallery, Tim 47, Scott 38, Pamon 36, Eric 24 and Jason 40.
Who is that handsome guy in the green on the left ? Hey, wait, that's me !
Walking over Big Bridge. Dead center, lower half, a little teening man ...
The monument to Sue and Karen, local girls who died in Alaska.
At the top of the Schoolyard, rigging a top rope, looking into the ravine.
Across the ravine. Notice the natural frozen waterfall ice.
Not wasting any time, Tim & Eric attach the first climb, never did this before !
Not quite as easy as it looks ...
Cresting the lip, doing a little hairy mantle move
Now we're on the move. Not bad for the first climb !
Looking down the ravine, this place is really hopping !
There goes the veteran ice climber, Jason the Magnificent
Nice little stemming move.
This looks pretty fun !
It gets vertical right where he is
My turn. Mmm. I'm a little apprehensive starting out.
On the move. Pick pick, step step. Pretty easy
Working out some vertical problems
When you get moving, you can do pick step pick step for some speed.
Nice ass !
Ah, resting on the Tot Spot, the little chair I brought to keep my butt dry
On the way back
Couldn't pass up this shot !
Same spot, 180 degrees, looking the other direction.
On the Big Bridge, looking at the sun on the ridge at the end of the day
These are the covetted climbs next to the Big Bridge.
It's a manly crew, a happy crew, from a day of ice climbing in Ouray ! HOORAY
The only way to top this day is with a big fat STEAK !
Or maybe a steaming pile of TOFU ! NOT !
Hey Tim, act goofy !
Dawn brings us to new routes, below the Little Bridge.
This climb had this little squeeze chimney at the top. It was a fun rappel !
At the top, I'm powering up this sketchy vertical WI4+ chandelier ice. Awesome!
These Czechs next to us were doing some mixed climbing up this difficult run
Look for the Czech on the dark vertical rock. This was a tough lead !
No, I'm not praying. I'm adjusting the ice axe leashes.
Jason took this, screwing around.
Hi mom !
This is a good shot of the texture of the ice on the climbs.
This was a sketchy part.
Just keep going up !
Jason on same route, a little to the right.
End of day 2, had to go back and get this pic that Scott missed !
And this one
On the ravine edge, looking towards the Big Bridge.
This sign basically sez, Don't F-Up this beautiful place !
This shows the ice waterfall making equipment, basically showerhead nozzles
Some random guy rappelling over into the abyss !
Detail of nozzleheads.
Nice view of some big icefalls
Mule deer next to our hotel.
Rocky Mountain High, courtesy of Ouray, Colorado.
Another perfect sunset, taken from the Hot Springs parking lot.
Mule deer, hanging out like sheep in the grass field.
Urban deer. Not REALLY urban here !
You can kinda get a feeling for this place, between the peaks.
Mule deer ASSes ! Up close and personal.
Ouray Hot Springs Pool, nice eery glow thru the steam
It's not really a good day to eat outside of the pizza parlor ! it's about 20deg
Me and Scott setting up the top rope for this climb.
I rappelled down to the bottom, collecting my wits before I start the marathon
That's me way at the bottom. Pictures taken from the Big Bridge.
On your mark, get set GO!
The little ant is on the MOVE !
At the 1st ice cave, taking a small rest.
Above the ice cave.
Another zoom out. I told Scott to take LOTS of pics of me !
Thank you Scott!
I know, nobody cares as much about these pics as I DO!
Almost done, arms are burning.
Power thru it, Tim !
Pick, step, pick step.
Pick pick step step. Gitter DONE!
Victory is near.
and SWEET !
Job done. Thanks for the belay, Jason.
This is what you can do if you get tired... hang out !
Scott. He's pretty wiped out.
Scott. Ooompff !
Notice Scott's crampon came off !
Scott, almost there.
Me sitting in the Tot Spot belaying Scott.
Just before we left, it was snowing like the dickens ... an inch an hour.
This is Middleton, where we had lunch. This is all new snow.
This place has been there forever.
Back in the Durango airport, waiting for our flight. It's 3:30, and our ...
flight is scheduled for 6:15, but it's snowing hard.
about 8:30, we get to go to the plane. Pretty snowy and still snowing.
All snow and no go... we got seated, then removed cuz the deicing equip failed
Back to the rental car to DRIVE HOME ! 14 hours
Wipe off the snow
Jason wants to leave NOW !
After 12 hours, almost home to the rain just ahead.
San G Snow Hike Jan-2008
Just another day in paradise, with perfect weather and alpine views....
My hiking partners ... far enough ahead of me to escape the tuna casserole gas
"Hey guys ... can you finally breathe fresh air up there ?"
Oh Gaawwwwddd .. the not-so-famous self-portrait .... YECH !
"Hey, thanks Bob for the pic ... That's why I didn't do a solo ascent this time"
Here we are at High Camp, about 9300'. Everybody has snowshoes on.
I think I was trying to suck in my gut in this picture !
Our intended path is above Dave's shoulder to the left, straight up, no zig-zags
Far left center, beyond the horizon line is our destination. We're about 9700'
Hey Dave, where have you been ? I've been here for at least 10 minutes
A beautiful view across the valley at the north slope Mt. San Jacinto (10,805')
Hey Bob, nice you could join us. Dave, you're not looking so good.
Nice view of Mt. Baldy over my right shoulder, looking to the north.
Hey Bob, SMILE dammit ! (oh, you are, sorry !)
Hey Bob, on the count of 3, make a really manly face. 1...2...3 !
Here we are at the famous sign the shows the way to the summit ... buried in snow
I walked around to the side to show the snow/ice build-up. This pic is so COOL!
It looks like a ice cross hugging the signpost. Hey, it's lonley up here !
And here comes Bob (Dave had to opt out). It was NOT EASY to get, btw.
Nice pic of Bob, with Baldy in the background, looking north west.
Alright, all these pics about the damn SIGN, I had to have Bob get my pic.Thanks
By the way, it's pretty COLD up here.. prob. about 20 deg. wind chill...
Proof positive we made it ... Awww, the Summit Marker ... read it and WEEP !
I love this view !! I'm sitting on the summit blocks looking at Big Bear & Bob
The watch does not lie ... 5:36 start, 1:33 summit
On the summit. You can see the summit post box almost dead center. It's cold.
Summit blocks, with Mt. San Jacinto (10,804') in the background
Guess who, looking towards Big Bear, across the valley.
Looking on the north slope of Mt. San Gorgonio, toward Big Bear Lake, dead cntr
I took this on the way down, cuz the ice balls looked so cool reflecting the sun
Nice pic of the north slope, with the tree shading the sun as I took this pic.
End of the hike, down by the creek at the bottom (in the dark, btw)
The watch does not lie ... (as much as I would like it to)
The Birkmann Yacht:
Off the coast of the Coronado Islands in Mexico.
San Gorgonio DEC-2007
Bear, or BIG F-ING Dog ? This think was the size of a glove, by the way ...
Hey Bob, I think you should take a picture of me fumbling with your camera !
Hey Bob, pretend that I'm not here, & that you don't see me taking your pic, ok?
8:00, sun's up, & I'm starving, so time for a disgusting breakfast of trail mix
Great contrast between sun and shade about 500 yds. from High Camp.
Now THAT'S what I'm talking about. SNOW is required for a SNOW HIKE. Duh.
Tim breaking trail, fresh tracks in snow shoes. Evo Denali's by MSR, btw.
Tim at Summit Junction.jpg
If it looks cold here, that cuz it IS !! Junction about 3/4 mi. from summit.
Tim Blowing Hands.jpg
I'm either blowing on my fingers to warm them, or blowing Bob a kiss. You decide
Tim on Summit.jpg
Wind is blowing ~40-50 mph, temp is about 15 deg. F. Hey Bob, what u think ?
Bob at Summit Blocks.jpg
San Gorgonio: 11,504 ft. Hey Bob, how cold you think it is here ? 20 below ?...
... 30 below ? Good shot of N. face of San Jacinto 10,804 across the valley.
Notice how wind-swept & desolate the place is, including that dude in the pic!
Bob the dot (dead center).jpg
View from summit, looking at Bob on the way down. False summit is to the left.
View looking south. You can see Saddleback Peak on the horizon line dead center.
Notice the wind shelters, all covered in snow. Frozen, wind-swept, F-ing COLD !!
Bob & I usually get our std. pic of taking a pic of each other. I was too slow.
Sunset on the upper slopes just below Halfway House, on descent.
North-facing slope. This pristine view looks like it could be in the Alps.
This sunset was even MORE beautiful in person. Postcard perfect to end the day
Last pic before tacos and beers at El Mexicano in Forest Falls.
Mt. Whitney / Mt. Russell Hike&Climb
Lone Pine Ranger Station parking lot, looking towards the Eastern Sierra.
Perfect weather, partly cloudy and about 98 deg.
Mt. Whitney (14,497') is in center left, just rt. of the 2 little points.
We spent the night in Horseshoe Meadow (10,000 ft.). Pic of Sierra Rabbit.
Beautiful Horseshoe Meadow. We slept there to acclimatize to higher altitude.
Standard pack (camping and climbing gear) weigh-in. Guess how much ?
72 pounds !!!! (a real back-breaker)
Home sweet home. We felt like Fred Flintstone with rock furniture.
You just can't beat the view from camp. The red line is the East Buttress route
Same location, across Iceberg Lake. The sun & shadows were perfect.
There's one of our targets: Mt. Russell (14,086 ft)
Climb day for the Whitney East Buttress, morning sun crests as we ascend.
Standard 5:30am self-portrait (I did already have my coffee, so not too grumpy)
The sun feels soooo good when it hits old cold bones like mine ...
Morning alpenglow as we head up to the route starting area. Arrow shows Pee Wee
I lead P1, and here's a pic of Dave coming up with another party at the base.
Dave lead P2, I lead P3, and here's Dave cresting the blocks below the P3 belay
Dave leading P4
While on the P4 belay, I took this scenic shot looking south across the E. Face
Looking up towards the famous "Pee Wee".
Dave led the pitch up to the Pee Wee where we belayed.
Coolest self-portrait ever ! Me and the Pee Wee himself ! (P6 belay)
Hey Dave, smile for the ladies ! (Pee Wee belay, Iceberg Lake at the bottom)
Me leading the pitch right next to the Pee Wee. I'm stemming the Pee Wee Cave.
Hey Dave, I think I see clouds, how about you ?
Since the previous pic, it has been sleeting, making it very cold.
Yes, Virginia, this is JULY in the High Sierra. You had better be prepared.
Here's the final summit blocks to ascend to reach the Whitney summit.
Awe, the sweet smell of VICTORY (or is that cold wet feet ?)
2 of the finest studs around ...
Here's a little plug for Mona-Vie, the berry juice that propelled me
Standard summit registry (my 15th summit of the great Mt. Whitney).
Proof that Mona-Vie has made it to the highest summit in the lower 48 states.
Class 3-4 scramble down the Upper Chute of the Mountaineer's Route.
It's pretty steep, and thankfully (this time) not filled with ice and snow)
Ahh, back down from the sleet on the summit.
On our "rest day", Jeffrey wants to go climb "somethin'". He has spotted a line
Feels great to be down and warming in the sun, huh Dave ?
The crags are across the lake, upslope, opposite Whitney
And here's the view. Notice the prominent E. Buttress and Mountaineer's Route.
Here's Jeffrey's line ... this sweet 150ft crack !
And here comes Jeffrey.
Jeffrey on lead, powering up this sweet line. He rates this a 5.9/5.10a
Jeffrey looking fresh and ready to lead his "Windmill" (ask him about this)
Here's me mantling the "Anvil", a new line next to "Jeffrey's Crack"
Me, powering up the thin finger crack of "the Anvil".
Is this somehow "erotic" ? (I'm thinking NO !)
Jeffrey going camera crazy
Keep pushing the button, Jeffrey !
Me doing a resting stance.
Me, up in the heart of this 5.9/5.10a crack.
Ah, the sweet rappel of victory !
Jeffrey, the Happy Belayer (but where's the smile ?)
Me powering up this arm-eater crack left of our 2-crack lines.
I freed the arm, and am stemming up.
I'm getting close to the overhanging part with the huge loose flake.
Resting stance before the real gruntwork.
Hey, are you guys watching me ?
No, they're taking scenery shots !
Stepping on the big loose flake...
Up and over (I remember I was cussing like a truck driver right about here)
Who's going to win, Tim or the Rock ?
That roof is SOOOO close (but SOOOO far ....) Just one little 5.10c move away
Here goes Willie. He's been salivating over this thing & is running up this part
Getting busy real quick, not even breaking a sweat.
Good hands, good feet, stepping very gingerly (not like my brutish ways)
Willie doing the move that Jeffrey & I could not, a little chimney-stem switch
Willie under the roof that he rates at a 5.12+ problem.
Shot right over Jeffrey's head at Willie under the roof.
Jeffrey getting ready to take a turn.
Jeffrey took 4 falls before giving up. Good try Buddy(but Willie gets the cigar)
OK, here's a little beefcake shot.
Another beefcake shot, with a finger over the lense.
3 pitches, we're done for the day, here's a shot looking up at our rest day crag
Here's the 3 lines we worked. We did middle 1st, then rt line, then left line.
Same crag from our campsite. You never know how good it will be til you go there
Zoom shot. We worked the left side of the crag. Look for the sharp triangle.
Here's Dave, actually resting on our "rest" day.
Jeffrey jumps in the lake. At this point, he's thankful these aren't hi-res pics
Awesome weather day. There's our little blue tent.
This is Jeffrey and Willie's camp, about 50 yds away from ours.
Willie giving us the mighty sales pitch of the benefits of a a haul bag.
Mt. Russell.jpg 2007-08-02
Great view of the Fishhook Arete, the prominent line bending up from lower left
Russell Fishhook Routeline.jpg
I added the red routeline
Final climb day, doing the Mt. Russell (14,086 ft). Moon over Whitney N. Face.
Psyched up for the famous Fishhook Arete (5.9)
Dave and I surveying the first killer pitch of the Fishhook. Looks menacing.
Suns up, and the moon too (dead center).
I lead P1 of the Fishhook, and got worked over. Note Dave below (yellow helmet)
And here's my other hand. This is why I tape up for cracks !
Do I look worn out ? I am, but I'm way too stoked about this route !
Here's Dave leading P2, the left-leaning arete that wants to throw you off.
Another climbing team (woman leading) on the Mithral Dihedral).
Nice view west, from the P3 belay.
P4 belay notch, looking east
Here I stepped out, feeling the exposure, baby !!!
The next P5 looks soooo fun ! Maybe the funnest on the whole climbl
And above, you'll see the famous Chimney pitch, above the previous pic.
Famous 5.8 downclimb leading to P4 belay. You must leave gear for cleaner to use
Looking west again from P4 belay.
Perfect look up the P5 line.
Me at P5 belay
P5 belay, below the Chimney pitch.
This climb is awesome !
P6 belay, above the famous 5.8 offwidth Chimney pitch.
Looking south towards Iceberg Lake
Same view from the Class 4 ledges. P7, We opted out of the finishing 5.9 pitch.
A short 5.8 section gets us to the amphitheater, Dave leading.
Same shot, with the summit in sight.
My P8 belay view, it's a doosey !
Dave belaying me from our final P8 spot in the amphitheater.
Awesome view north from Mt. Russell summit to Mt. Williamson summit, a 14-er.
A little farther west ...
View east along the Russell summit ridge. Note how narrow and shear !
On our way along ridge west to the rap off near the Diamond Arete finish.
South towards Whitney under afternoon sun.
The West summit of Mt. Russell, the true summit, with the Fishhook on the left.
I guess I love this view (Whitney N. Face), cuz I've taken so many pics of it !
Looking south at Iceberg, and Mt. Langley (a 14-er)
The arrow points to our campsite at Iceberg.
Looking southwest, Lone Pine Peak in rain shadow.
Last pic of trip (battery died after) Dave & I approaching rap-off area.
Nick&Tim on Whodunnit
FINALLY made it to the chains for the hanging belay (look towards skyline
Nick on the first pitch, below the hard stuff.
I led next 2 5.8 pitches. Nick is down by the trees dead center
Closeup of Nick by the little bush mid-pitch.
Sequence of Nick going up the 5.9 straight vertical famous chimney pitch.
This pitch is famous for a reason.
Setting pro, getting ready to really get into it. I did this hanging my ...
..little pack between my legs so I could have my back on the wall. Nick sets pro
Too much thinking, not enough climbing ! (this pitch messes with your head)
"Get me outta here !" says Nick. This chimney is all physical grunting on exit.
Nick sets a #4 Camelot, getting ready to exit, then clip a rusty pin ring in 10'
Chimney belay: I'm smiling cuz I always catch hell for not smiling.
OK, my turn to muscle and grunt my way up the chimney. This outta be good ...
Last belay before the top ... Hey Nick, did you feel those rain drops ?
It's a gusher !!! Soaked to the bone, we reach the parking lot.
Big Rock Training 8/26
Our route is African Flake, just to the rt. of the streak down the middle
Patty stands by the sign that shows the route information for Big Rock
That little dot of a person is Linda, Eric's gf. This is her very first time up
A zoom-in captures some powerful moves ...
She's not quite up to the top chains yet.
Getting closer ... she's not out of gas yet !
Eric is demonstrating proper form as Linda's belayer.
On the way down showing the SWEET taste of victory. How about a flex?
Does that look like the Tiger Woods famous Fist Pump ?
New climber, Sandra, takes to the stone (totally freaked out)
Calming down a bit, Sandra focuses and gets busy.
Nice palm manuever, and nice foot placements.
Hang on, Sandra's on the move and going VERTICAL !
Linda's looking all bad-ass (cuz she made it !)
Sandra doesn't even need me to yell, er, uh, encourage her anymore.
Getting close to the top, in this bottom-up view
Sandra is the little white dot at the top of the Trough streaks.
Hey, NICE ! Victory, 160 vertical feet in one push.
Hey Sandra "Lean back, lean back !"
Listen and you can almost hear her say "Hey Sarge, you can kiss my a@$&^#!"
Take the quiz: "Who is this ?"
Mt. Baldy 06-JUL-2007
Sun rise at the top of Mt. Pine (9675')
Our final destination ... should be there by 8 am.
Looking towards Baden-Powell from the top of Pine Mtn.
Here comes Jason, at about 6am sharp. 1 hr from the car.
Final 100 ft.
Jason cresting the final summit plateau
The Promised Land
Jason & Tim on the summit of Mt. Baldy (10,064') at 8am.
Jason has the Harry Potter hiking stick (he forgot his hiking poles)
"We BAD !!"
Who are the baddest Mo-fo's you know ? 2 guesses !
The way down ...
Final look from where we came from ...
Hey Tim, nice hat !
We made it back to the car by 11:10, with a 5am start.
Mark&Tim JUL-2007 do Baldy
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Summer 2006 Whitney East Buttress
Brand new Visitor's Center in Lone Pine. We pick up our Iceberg Lake permits here.
Mmmm. It looks like it's POURING up there (that's where we're going tomorrow). Whitney is far right.
WP - Night Before
WP - Night Before 2
At the Whitney Portal, time to unpack our equipment and go over our rock climbing gear rack.
There's the new trailhead, with the posts and scales and information plaques. Let's go have a look !
Well, nothing like a little encouragement before we start ! (Here ye, all you weak pukes stay off the trail !)
Basic mileage and elevations for the standard Whitney Trail. We'll be on the North Fork Lone Pine Creek trail instead.
More encouragement. Yes, 14,500 ft is pretty high up !
Pretty cool view of the trailhead "portal" (makes you feel like you'll be doing something special)
Hey Dave, smile !
Notice how nice and tidy I keep my Excursion before climb day.
WP - Tim Reading up
Reading up on mountaineering and knot tieing.
Portal Water Fall
Tons of water in Lone Pine Creek
5:30 am, time to hike, last minute equipment check
WP - Dave Ready to Go
Climb day, geared up and ready. Hey Dave, how much do you think that pack weighs ?
Now THERE'S an organized pack. I wonder how heavy that baby is ...
The "official" wiegh in, at the portal ... drumroll please ...
No more mystery ... Holy cow ! 55 pounds ! I gotta carry that thing WHERE ?
Hey Tim, quit messing with your pack and camera, let's hit the trail !
Alright, let's roll ... (sunrise !)
TH2LBL - Sunrise
Awe, sunrise on the trail, nothing better (except laying around in bed watching cartoons !)
This place is sooooo beautiful at sunrise.
After a brief argument on where the turnoff to North Fork is, we're on the way up (btw, Dave was right)
I never get tired of meadow photos ...
The sun comes up FAST.
TH2LBL - Meadow
This is why I drive 250 miles and throw 55lbs on my back, for THIS view
TH2LBL - Time to Cross
What, I gotta cross HERE ? I'll get my boots wet for sure !
TH2LBL - Time to Get Wet
Mmm. Nice TRAIL (if you're a FISH)
TH2LBL - 8 ft Waterfall
And at the end of this, there's an 8 foot waterfall spitting at you.
Glad I took my boots off, I HATE walking with water sloshin' in the boots.
After getting my shoes back on, we find the entry to go up the Ebersbacher Ledges. This looks fun with a 55lb pack ...
This is the crux move of the ELs. One false move and it's ADIOS !
TH2LBL - EL
More navigating on the ELs.
Here's Dave weaving his way up the ELs. This section would totally suck in the dark ...
TH2LBL - Ebersbacher Ledges 1
Here's our reward after the waterfall, the famous Ebersbacher Ledges. Below me is about 100ft of nasty fall.
TH2LBL - Ebersbacher Ledges 2
This wasn't too fun with a 55-pound pack !
TH2LBL - Looking Back
TH2LBL - Cordillera First View
On the way to Lower Boyscout Lake, this is the first view we get of the "Sierra Cordillera". Totally awesome.
TH2LBL - Up Up Up
This trail was remarkably steep, all the way to Boyscout Lake, just ask Dave !
Just another ho-hum totally beautiful waterful on the way to Lower Boyscout Lake in the Whitney Zone ...
TH2LBL - Up we go
"Hey Tim, which way is it ?", asks Dave. "Up. Always UP !"
Finally made it. Time for a break. And, check out this VIEW !!!!
LBL 2 - View to UBSL
Upper Boyscout Lake is above the greenery in the center, winding to the upper right of the photo.
LBSL 3 - View to UBSL2
These waterfalls are really going off. And they are loud, which is totally cool.
LBL2UBL - Slabs
We are now on the slabs on the way to UBL. This part was easier walking
LBL2UBL - Slabs2
Looking back towards Lone Pine in the Owen's Valley from the slabs.
A nice view down the slabs looking down at Lower Boyscout Lake
LBL2UBL - Slabs3
The trail goes up the ridge. In the photo, it's above my head slightly and to the left
LBL2UBL - Waterfall snack
Time for a quick snack : a tube of GOO.
Dave admiring High Sierra beauty ...
LBL2UBL - Waterfall
Here's a great photo without me in it !
LBL2UBL - Waterfall2
Being there is way cooler than this photo, which is way cool.
LBL2UBL - View to Lone Pine
Yet another looking down to Lone Pine. We are now above the timberline; what a difference visually.
Upper Boyscout Lake, above the timberline (like a lake on the Moon)
Destination in sight ... it must be time for a ....
... Self Portrait !
UBL2IL - Whitney First View
Ah, the first view after coming up the ridge that skirts above Upper Boyscout Lake
UBL2IL - Snowfield
Hey Dave, what do you say we play in the snow ?
UBL2IL - Big Stone
Big Stone. Big Pack. Big Hike. Big FUN !
UBL2IL - Tim Loaded for Bear
IL - Sierra Cordillera
The view from Iceberg Lake, 2000 vertical feet of granite. Right to left is Whitney, Keeler & Day Needles and Mt. Muir.
UBL2IL - snow feet
These snow fields are huge at the base of Muir, Day, Keeler and the big guy (Whitney)
Whitney's big East Face, with the Weeping Wall on the right. We go past the WW to get to Iceberg Lake
Looking back from the same spot, here comes "Locomotive Dave"
Here's a better shot of the Weeping Wall. Water is pouring down the face.
We're past the Weeping Wall now, time to turn right and go up the final stretch to Iceberg.
IL - Whitney and MR
We have arrived. The snow chute is the Mountaineer's Route, and the prominent line up Whitney is the East Buttress
IL - Muir-Day-Keeler-Whitney
Uh Oh ... Hey Dave, do you see those clouds building up over the summit ?
IL - Little Thief
Look closesly dead center and you'll see a very wily marmot. Very clever. Very capable little thief !
IL - Anti-Marmot protection
But, we are MORE clever than the marmot, so we hang our food.
IL - Mt. Russell and Fading Sun
Insane view of Mt. Russel towering above Iceberg Lake
IL - Mt. Russell
Starting to get a little cloudy up there ...
IL - Returning Climbers
IL - Tent Sweet Tent
It's not the biggest tent in the world (right Dave ?) but it'll keep you dry if (when) it rains !
Home sweet home ... on the Moon !
Dave's not feeling so good, so we can't climb the East Buttress tomorrow morning. But, we're scouting for the future
Hey Dave, nice finger ! Not exactly a Lazy-Boy chair I'm in ...
IL - Upper MR
Nice shot of the East Buttress and the notch high on the Mountaineer's Route.
IL - Whitney East Buttress
Looking straight up the EB at the Second Tower.
The last of the sun on the peaks ...
Looking east ... High Sierra sunset ...
Man it's COLD ! (now I know why this place is called ICEBERG Lake ...)
Time to get some water for morning coffee. Hey, is that lake FROZEN SOLID ?
I guess it got pretty cold last night. This is my coffee cup upside down on about 1/2-inch thick ice.
IL2MR - Morning Start
Dave couldn't make the EB climb, so I decided to do the MR solo in the morning (white shirt and white helmet, lwr right)
IL2MR - Morning Start2
I'm going straight up to check out where we would have started the East Buttress climb ...
The East Face and the East Buttress share the same start. These guys are doing the EF.
... and they took my pic right at the start of the East Buttress. It's a pretty easy start.
Nice view of the Russell-Carrillon pass (the high plateau) and Iceberg below
Looking up the left-facing dihedral EB start and the Second Tower ... oh well, next year ... (boo hoo !)
These guys just started. I hope they're fast enough to get off the rock before it rains, but I secretly don't think so!
Route finding on the Mountaineer's Route. I bailed to the rocks cuz the snow was too much work w/o crampons.
Up the shoot. It looks easier on the left side, so I'm going over there ...
Above the snow. Amazingly beautiful purple flowers at 14000 ft !
Perfect time for a self-portrait, looking straight up the MR. Time to pass these slowpokes in front of me...
At the top of the MR, "the Notch", looking at the very sweet Fishhook Arete (5.10a) of Mt. Russell
Lots of room up here at the Notch. I think I might be able to see my tent from here.
Yep, there it is ... center, slightly lower right, the little blue dot by the big rock. Dave, can you hear me ?
14,200 ft, looking up "the Chute", 300 vertical feet. This lower section was icy and TRICKY ! and shady
From the start of the Chute, looking out to the north on the horizon line
Not a cloud in the sky .... yet ....
Here you go, a nice 70-degree icy slope. I stayed right the whole way, serious class 4 climbing. You DON'T want to slip!
Topping out, you can see the pyramid shape of the Whitney Warming Hut center right on the horizon line
This is the left side of the last 300 feet. Nice stone textures and shapes.
Whew ! That was a little spooky. This is NOT for casual hikers. Maybe that's why they call it the Mountaineer's Route...
Might as well sign the summit registry (first guy on new page) "Bring your ice axe", I wrote.
This guy and these 3 hot chicks came up from Cottonwood Lakes, with a 5:30am start ... (lucky bastard)
She took my picture, looking towards the hut (hey Tim, try to look tough)
My boot, and the US Geological Survey marker on the summit
... and of course the famous plaque to REALLY prove you were there ...
From the summit blocks, this is where I started. Dave's 2-way radios worked great. 1.5 hrs total for 1800 vert. feet
View looking east from summit down to Lone Pine.
From summit looking south
There's the shark-fin shape of Lone Pine Peak, once thought to be taller than Whitney
Back down to almost the bottom. It must be time for a self-portrait !
MR2IL - Back1
Back so soon ? Yep, lake to lake in 3 1/2 hours (7:30am to 11:00am)
MR2IL - Back2
Aren't ice axes cool ? (and useful !)
After packing up and a brief rest, down we go. This is a snowfield below the Weeping Wall
The red and orange colors in the snowfield is mountain algae. Life finds a way to survive anywhere ...
IL2UBL - 55lb slip
Too bad Dave missed the timing of this photo -- I slipped & fell over on my back laughing cuz the pack was so heavy !
IL2UBL - Flowers1
Beauty above the timberline.
IL2UBL - Flowers2
How DO these things survive/grow/thrive here anyways ?
IL2UBL - View of LBL
Back down to Lower Boyscout Lake. Notice the shade from the clouds. This is a factor later !
UBL2LBL - Bouldering
Not as fun with a pack ...
UBL2LBL - Waterfall
Missed this pic on the way up (so we got it on the way down)
LBL - around 2:00
Hey Dave, did you see how FAST those clouds moved in ? Hey, was that a raindrop I felt ?
Couldn't take many pics, cuz ... We got POURED on and SOAKED. I think Dave actually RAN down the hill
zLast Pic - Tim Wet
My ass (and my rope) are DRAGGIN'
Tim's January solo of San G in winter
Ah, man's best friend in the snow ... his pack and his winter gear.
Time for an early start. It's about 36 deg. here at the bottom above Forest Falls.
Lots of snow on the north-facing slopes. These are right above Forest falls and border the river.
What a gorgeous view, looking down towards San Bernadino.
I never get tired of this view
Nice view of San Jacinto (10,802') with snow down the north-facing gullies leading down to Palm Springs.
The real summit, as viewed from the false summit.
The final summit blocks. I can't wait to get out of this wind !
It's about 20 deg. here on the summit, and the wind is blowing about 30-40 mph. Hands are FREEZING. I ate my lunch in a
The sun is behind this tree at High Camp, making this an awesome V-Tree silhouette
Self-portrait using camera timer. I never saw anyone the whole day, and my truck was the only vehicle in the parking lot
Nice hat hair, huh ?
December solo of San Gorgonia
I really didn't expect there to be snow at Forest Falls, 6000 vertical feet below the summit ...
My standard snow pack ... ice axe, snow shoes, crampons, extra stuff ...
"Here comes the sun, little darling ..."
Nothing melts up here
Does this look cold enough ?
Summit blocks ... it's HOWLING up there on the top, about 50 mph gusts and about 10 degrees.
Summit blocks, out of the wind, thank God
Beautiful view of Mt. San Jacinto, snowy north side.
From the summit looking to the north, you can see Big Bear Lake in the distant background
Nice view of the trail line I came up
Here's the standard self-portrait. Hey Tim, SMILE, you just walked 8 miles, 6000 vertical feet through ice and snow ! AN
I just LOVE these new MSR Evo Denali snow shoes !
Jason, Kelly and Tim to Whitney EB
Ebersbacher Ledges all clear below Iceberg Lake. North side was snowy & icy, Southside clear and sunny !
A look down to Lone Pine. Looks like summer, not last weekend of October.
This waterfall is totally frozen solid, blue ice. Jason wanted to ice-climb it with his twin "Ouray" ice axes.
My 1st time EVER with crampons. It makes crusing over the ice at the Slabs totally easy (impossible with crampons)
Jason (and Kelly in background) lumbering up above Upper Boy Scout Lake, above timberline
"Hey Tim, I thought you said this was an easy hike ?" "Daddy, are we there yet ?"
Awe, the mighty Sierra Cordillera. Look closely to see Jason and Kelly, Lower Right on trail.
Hike Day. It's getting late, and we're not quite there yet. Hurry up !
Aw, winter is finally here at Iceberg Lake, with the prominent East Buttress prow in background.
Rest Day, doing Pitch 1, looking down at Iceberg Lake 700ft below. Shouldn't we be resting ? NAH !
Rest Day. Me, leading Pitch 2. Prev. picture was of Kelly below from this position here.
Pitch 2 belay, looking down at Jason coming up. P2 had this nasty offwidth.
Rest Day, looking at a cold Kelly, and the crux 5.7 slabby start of Pitch 3 (my pitch tomorrow)
Rest Day. We got back late, and it's cold, and I'm hungry. (photo: Jason and Tim)
What a mess ... Need to get ready for climb day tomorrow. It was an AWESOME sunset.
Rest Day. We got back about 5, racked our gear for the morning, ate in the dark, then piled into this huge 2-man tent
Rest Day. When I said the tent was huge, I was smoking crack ! (it's a micro-tent !)
Climb day, before sunrise. BF Cold !!! Getting water for the gatorade was a real challenge.
Awe, the early morning alpenglow of the mighty Sierra Cordillera ... nothing more beautiful !
Climb Day. Perfect weather, clear, cold about 28 deg. F. Look to see Kelly (he's the red dot) at P1 belay
Climb day. Kelly took this from the P1 belay cuz he was there first. That's me in black and white helmet.
Behind me is Jason, coming up the Class 4 hand scramble to the P1 belay point
A brief look at the neighbors ... Keeler Needle, and Day Needle, 2500ft of granite spires.
Jason says, "Hey Kelly, why don't you take a picture of your finger ?"
P1, I came up 3rd on a Grigri, Rockstar Dr. "Feelgood" Jason is belaying Kelly on lead above.
A little better shot. I'm not quite at the belay ledge.
Looking down at the little tower on P1. Aw, the sun the sun ! (too cold to climb without socks)
Kelly taking a picture of me doing P1 again ! (cuz the rope was stuck all the way at the bottom)
Kelly, top of P2, looking down at Jason on P2 belay, and me, slugging up P1 for the 2nd time.
A look up and to the right, towering over the Mountaineer's Route
Top of P3, looking down at Jason and Kelly. We're getting ready to bail off the horn that Jason's at.
P3 top belay, anchor shot. There's 3 ft of snow here, it's shady, and the wind is howling. I'm totally frozen.
Looking straight down the East Buttress. I love this pic !
Kelly is happy, cuz he's the only one in the sun !
Yes, it's the obligatory "Self-Portrait" of the "Man with the Frozen Feet"
Jason staying warm in down, before we rap down into the MR, over the edge into the void.
Off the ledge into the great unknown, with 2 60meter ropes and a rack full of gear
That was the most INSANE rap EVER ! All 195 ft. Frozen, time to get back into some REAL shoes.
One last shot looking south east, from our vantage point at 13,800 feet.
Same view, Kelly's camera.
Ah, the sweetness of victory ! (I think Jason's looking a little bit like Gary Busey in Big Wednesday)
Time for the celebratory red wine that I brought up (need to bring more next time !) Cheers, mate !
We're a band of beat dogs, 5 days, no shower, and my tire is flat on my Excursion ! Oh No !!! I want beer !
Training day at Big Rock, Lake Perris
Me leading, and setting the top-rope for training day
Awe, my first victim !
Eric's first DAY in the sport of rock climbing ... we're reviewing our rigging
Me demonstrating the "cross-over" belay
On your mark ...
... Get set ...
Hey, I said GET SET !
Nice technique. Remember, climb with your FEET
"Hey Tim, where are the handholds again ?"
"Hey Tim, I can't believe I'm really climbing this thing !"
Telephoto shot ... of Eric's ass !
... almost there ...
Coming down now
Hey, that was pretty fun !
"Piece of cake. Does that mean that I'm a rock climber now ?"
(voice of Austin Powers) "Ya, baby, ya !"
Alright, who's next ?
Ed S. wants to run up this thing to show Eric a thing or 2...
and away he goes ...
There's Ed, climbing with his feet (like you're supposed to do)
Another victory for team B/E !
He's about 130 feet up
Here's a little perspective of the accomplishment
He's actually sitting at the top of the "Trough"
And now back to Mother Earth ... whew !
Time for Ann to trump us all
Ah yes, a tender moment between husband and wife ...
Hey you guys, is the life insurance all paid up ?
"Now remember, don't untie THIS knot, ok ?!?"
One last check
Robert sez, "Hey mom, go for it !"
Poised like a cat ...
Check this undercling ... just like a pro
Ann is just FLYING up this thing
She's the little yellow dot a little off center
Woo Hoo !!!! Team Estrogen weighs in with a victory
Eric's 3rd day in the sport
This is what we came to do. I can only imagine what Eric was thinking about since this is his VERY FIRST multi-pitch cli
Eric, ready to roll (he doesn't YET know how steep the hike to the base is !)
Tahquitz, from Humber park. We arrived before the sun.
Sun hitting the top of Lily Rock (while Eric takes a breather)
We had great weather, as noted by the summit of Mt. San Jacinto
"Let's get ready to rumblllllle !" Taped and ready.
At the base of the climb (this is the TRUE face of fear, and EXCITEMENT). "Hey Eric, relax ... this is FUN, remember ?"
Start of climb, below the first bely spot. We'll be climbing up about 20 ft.
Ah, vertical real-estate at Tahquitz ... nothing better ...
Eric completes P1, after battlling the rattlesnake 1 move off the ground
Eric at the P2 belay after completing his very first pitch on the big stone !
Me getting ready to start P2.
This is Eric's nemesis (the Rattler's Den). Thankfully, it was still pretty cold, so the little devil was not yet intere
We were above the clouds all day. This is the marine layer right about 5,000 ft.
Me, on the move
Looking straight down the Maiden Buttress, 4 pitches (about 500 feet). It's way steeper when you're there !
This is the TRUE face of FUN !
P4 top belay, 3-piece equalized bomber anchor with Eric tied in.
Eric topping out, tired as the day is long. We still have a hefty walk down to beat nightfall (which we DIDN'T make)
Eric topping out. This is the TRUE face of FUN ! (sure beats mowing the lawn or cleaning the garage !)
I think I saw God today. He was riding the wave of cloud tops in from below.
Topped out. We'll be rushing to make it down before dark.
Climbing doesn't get any better than this ...
More from Big Rock
Another Family Day. This is my daughter's boyfriend Scott.
Scott is a natural ... AND, he does not have a right thumb and forefinger
What a bee-uuu-tiful day
A bouldering playground
(from L to R) Scott, my daughter Lindsey, and my son Mason
Lindsey looks like a rock climber, doesn't she ?
And there she goes ...
Hey dad, where's the handholds ?
JUL-2010: I took Bricia on her VERY FIRST multi-pitch trad (traditional, ground up) climb to Tahquitz (of course, my favorite place) to do White Maiden's Walkway (5.4) a long ez fun fun fun climb with good rock and great exposure. We had to get this in before Bricia's next round of chemotherapy, to begin 2 days later.
She climbed strong, and loved every second of it (she officially has the bug) and we dined with Mark and Dave (the NICEST guys -- Mark cheered Bricia on during a particularly tough section, as they were climbing behind us) on the top of Pitch 4 with our feet hanging over into the abyss, 500 feet off the deck, enjoying a gourmet of Triscuits, Baby-Bels, fresh cherries (Mmmm) and Mandarin cups. We finished off at La Casita (of COURSE) with Margs and Tacos, before, sadly, driving back to end the day. It was 4th of July Weekend, and Idyllwild was HOPPIN' !
MAY-2010: I've been getting the "jitters" lately, cuz I need to climb SOMETHING, but I didn't want to overdue it since I have only climbed twice in the gym since my accident.
Also, Bricia, Sandra's sister, has never really climbed outside of Big Rock and the Rock City Climbing Gym. So, we took advantage of a hole in our schedules over Easter weekend, and a spectacular weather window to go back to the Nuclear Reactor rock at Joshua Tree. This way, we could top rope climbs I've already done, and get our feet wet again for this "first of the season" climb.
I took a 55 ft fall, probably 30 ft of that was to a ledge where I landed feet first, broke both ankles (the same bone in each ankle, actually), then went on another 25 feet upside down. My climbing partner caught my fall, so it "ended" a little unspectacularly. The reason the fall was so long was that I was climbing about 6 feet above a piton that I clipped. Pitons are driven into the rock with hammers and are SUPPOSED to be fairly permanent. The "freak" part of othis accident is that I fell 6 feet above the pin in a technical crux of the route variation, and it PULLED OUT, which rarely if ever happens. SO, I fell all the way down to my previous piece (a 1" cam) and it held, but by then, you know, you keep going twice as far past your last piece. So, all and all, a 55 footer. I ended up with the piton still clipped to my rope. I'm going to frame that damn thing with a photo of my broken ankles underneath, with some funny caption featuring some choice 4-letter words.
We have had such a hilarious time making jokes and videos and pictures. It REALLY is quite comical, really. Big Bad Rock Climber who gives clinic on climbing and safety, falls on first pitch of first climb of first day in the Dolomites, breaks both ankles, walks out down small canyon for a mile, then gets airlifted by the Italian SAR 35km away, whereby a I get there and the little Italian doctor, litterally, I swear, tells me I'm fucked, puts me in 2 casts that are impossible to walk or stand in due to the angle of set, so I crawl to my hotel room, everybody laughing hysterically cuz it is quite a spectacle, including myself, then we play Gipetto the Shoemaker and make mods to the casts so I can at least stand, while old ladies watch us and laugh ..... you get the picture. Michael Bauer, my climbing partner, has a sore stomach from laughing so hard. Oh, and so do I.
Oh, and some of the video is priceless. Hope you like !