Wanner Family Events - Grand Galivant 2010

In the weeks leading up to our gallivant, I worked furiously upgrading and replacing some things on the bike and collecting gear for our adventure.

• The most important 'farkle' came a few months before our departure, when the IMC Camos bluetooth intercom headsets were replaced with a 'wired system' Starcom1 Digital with remote. We had outgrown the bluetooth units with an ever-increasing array of devices, and grown weary of inharent bluetooth issues. The Starcom1 answers every limitation of the bluetooth systems, and I highly recommend it if you need to do more than just connect with a device or two.
• Another farkle installed well in advance was the Garmin GXM30 XM radio antenna for Garmin Zumo 550 GPS, which provided 100+ channels of commercial-free music. Fab'd a quick-release custom mount that allows easy shuttling between bike and truck.
• After reading an article about speeding tickets and particularly the $300 fines resulting from photo-radar and trafic cameras in AZ, CA, and CO, I purchased an Escort 9500ix GPS-equipped radar detector - which I must admit has likely saved me now more than a few times. Fab'd a quick-release custom mount that allows easy shuttling between bike and truck.
• The bike received a new set of Michellin PilotRoad2's (after much online research) because the old rear was worn-out and the front was severely 'cupped'. I chose the PR2's for their dual-compound grip and preported longevity. Nature Dave (a friend in the Bavorak Motorrad Riders BMWMOA#290) helped me mount the tires, and a couple ounces of DynaBeads front and rear took care of balancing.
• Purchased a used Corbin seat set and both Monique and I absolutely hated them - so we stuck with the stock seats - which worked very well. Although I don't have one, I highly recommend the Kontour seat treatment, and will have that done on my next bike.
• Added some forward lighting for conspicuity with BikeVis bullets and PodMod modulator attached with custom brackets I fab'd-up out of aluminum and bolted to the otherwise unused R1150RT fork tabs. These do not provide any additional visibility for the rider, only improve safety by helping other drivers see you - day and night by creating a triangle of light.
• Realizing we needed more storage space, I did a little reasearch on tankbags. There are a few manufacturers that make quick-lock systems and I ordered a Marsee 20L Carona Mr. Pockets. After mounting to the bike, I found that it was too wide for the application, and steering could not reach full-lock left or right. A little more reasearch revealed the Bags-Connection "GS" model with SW-MOTECH mounting system, which was more expensive than the Marsee, but there is no other way to get 25L of interference-free storage. I highly recommend this tankbag system even-though it will activate the horn at full left steering and cancel the turn signals at full right.
• Taking cue's from an article I'd read in the May 2010 BMW ON magazine by Kevin Greenwald about safe and secure parking, I purchased a disc lock and coiled tether for keeping the bike extra-secure, which I did use on several occasions for a good night's sleep in suspect areas.
• Due to the long riding days we were planning, a Kaoko throttle lock was necessary.
• Another necessity for the long riding days were the "Sparky" highway pegs from ccMotorcycles. Honestly not sure if I could have done the 14+ hour days without them.
• Gear purchases included an extra pair of Summer gloves, 3 sets of LDComfort tights (for each of us), two BMW EasyTube2 universal 'buffs', 5 pairs of Sidi Tech Road socks (for each of us), and Mo needed a pair of ligitimate riding boots, which we found in the Sidi Jasmine Rain. 
• Finally, and maybe most importantly was upgrading myself - with an MSF (Motorcycle Safety Foundation) ABATE (American Bikers Aimed Toward Education) of Indiana Experienced Rider Course just a couple months prior to our ride - I'll thank Chris Hancock for that!

Other than the above, there were several little things like a small travel tire guage, ROK straps, updating the GPS and GPS software, and updating the radar detector.

This trip will be the longest either Monique or I have done before. Previous motorcycle rides lasted four days, and no farther than North and South Carolina. We had prepared for this trip with printed maps in addition to the GPS, pre-packed our clothes, and all the other pre-ride prep already mentioned. More importantly, we discussed schedule flexibility and being able to stop whenever necessary so that the trip would be enjoyable. We both agreed to travel with a light heart, few expectations, and a willingness to adapt as necessary. Monique had a wedding scheduled that Saturday morning, so we didn't depart until around 4pm. Our son Josh took our picture just before we said a prayer and ventured out.

We headed South through Kentucky and Tennessee, and eventually Memphis and on into Mississippi to stay the night. The roads were nice high-speed types down the Pennyrile and Purchase Parkways, then US-51 to Memphis, where I played a great remixed version of Elvis' A Little Less Conversation as we passed the Graceland exit.

On the itinerary, this was to be our longest riding day, 676 miles and 12 hrs. As we would find by the end of the day, 12 hrs. on Google Maps means 14 hrs. on the bike. We left Mississippi and rode back passed Graceland (playing the Elvis song again) through Memphis and on to Little Rock AK. Leaving Little Rock on I-30, we found US-70, and followed it into Oklahoma to Broken Bow and Idabel, then headed south into Texas, reconnecting with I-30 which took us through Dallas, Ft. Worth and eventually on to Abilene. 

It was extremely hot, as Dallas and surrounding areas (which is where we were riding) reported record-breaking highs. The city of Dallas was surprisingly pretty with a giant lake there I'd never seen before. We arrived in Abilene later than expected that night. And we thought this was the longest riding day of the trip, but... 

We awoke in Abilene under warm, humid overcast skies that later changed to clear blue with occasional puffy cloud, and continued West on I-20 to Big Springs, where we left the interstate, and followed TX-176 into New Mexico. As the day wore on the 98deg heat began to get to us, and we took shelter in the shade of a huge tree at the Andrews County Chamber of Commerce building in Andrews TX - after stopping for gas and drinks.

Riding westward through New Mexico on NM-176 and US-180 to Carlsbad Caverns brought us to our first attraction. Carlsbad Caverns features amazing natural cave features made by acidic water washing down through the limestone. We went through it in about 3 hours, but much more time could be spent enjoying this National Park. While the caves are expansive, 117 discovered so far, and much of it is yet unexplored. If you go during the Summer, be sure to plan to be there at dusk, when the 400,000 Brazillian bats exit the caverns to feed at night.

 We did not stay for the bats because there was a thunderstorm moving in from the East with a huge lightning show. We would get out of there just in time, and spend an hour or two trying to outrun the approaching front - which caught up with us and delivered rain for about a half hour. Continuing past the storm, we witnessed a sunset so vivid it looked like a giant fire off in the distance, creating a purple and pink sky around us and so beautiful that Monique said it made the day because she had never seen a more amazing sunset.

We arrived in Roswell after 9pm, and got some dinner before settling down for the night. Roswell is a busy place with lots of night life, even on Monday's apparently.

Before this day and night would end, we will have been on the bike 15 hours, making our way from Roswell NM through Flagstaff to Sedona AZ, arriving at 2am the following morning. But the adventure begins with our morning in Roswell, spent at the UFO museum and surrounding souvenir shops.

We then travelled US-380 across the open desert along the Northern border of the White Sands Missile Range to US-60 to US-180 Westward, and caught I-40 at Holbrook to Flagstaff. We passed a few points of interest we had not expected; Trinity Nuclear Test Site (Stallion Gate), Smokey Bear Birthplace in Capitan NM, Petrified Forest (South Entrance), and the 'Painted Desert'.

We finally made it to Flagstaff just after midnight, having endured the extremely hot day and long nervous riding done amongst the endless Elk crossing signs. We stopped there in Flagstaff where it was now cold due to the high elevation and nightfall for gas and hot chocolate. We then made our way to the Oak Creek Terrace motel in Sedona. Arriving at the hotel at 2am, we had logged 15+ hrs on the bike. This would be our longest day, because a change in plans was necessary. For both Monique and I, two 14 hr days and a 15 hr day in record-breaking hot temps had taken their toll. We were hot and sweaty, cold and shivering, thirsty, with dry eyes,  fatigued ears, sore shoulders and necks, numb butts and (for me) hands, and vibrating all over. The last three days had shown us our age, and laying down that night I felt as though I was still moving along the road, as if I had outrun myself and he was still on the bike trying to catch up.

Having arrived at 2am earlier the same morning, we slept-in a bit and around 9am, had a discussion about changing the itinerary. We had said that all plans were subject to change as necessary for our enjoyment. We had been riding long, hard and late for the past 4 days, and this morning was a major turning point. First, we needed time to see Sedona and enjoy the vacation. Beyond that, we needed to reduce riding hours for the remainder of the trip. We formed a new plan which included staying in Sedona another night, seeing Grand Canyon tomorrow on the way to Chloride and cutting-out Heart Attck Grill in Chandler, Bryce & Zion Canyons, Royal Gorge, and Pike's Peak was only a maybe before anyhow. Also, instead of riding the bike to California, we would ride with my mom in a rental car. Across the street, there was a kiosk where they were luring people to timeshare presentations with free helicopter tours. Since we couldn't afford a few hours listening to a presentation and hard-sell session, we just payed for the tickets and scheduled the flight for later that day. This gave us some time to walk down to Oak Creek from the hotel, where we found a beautiful desert oasis.

At 2pm, we had ridden to the Sedona airport, where Monique burned her leg getting off the bike in her shorts. After checking-in and applying first aid, we boarded the helicopter flown by a retired New York City police copter pilot. He was a great guide during the flight, and we captured some amazing views that would otherwise have never been seen. If you have a limited time to see something as expansive and beautiful as the canyons and rock fromations around Sedona, helocopter is the way to go.

After the copter tour, we went hiking in Boynton Canyon, and Chapel of the Holy Cross, finishing the day in an upscale part of Sedona called Tlaquepaque, which is loaded with beautiful architecture, fine dining and amazing art works of all sorts. We had dinner outside on the patio of one of the nice eateries on the main drag through Sedona, Hwy 89a. We were fortunate to be in the desert while the cacti were blooming.

This day in Sedona would be one of the best days of the trip, with beautiful scenery, helicopter ride, hiking the canyons, and exploring God's wonderful creation.

Before leaving Sedona, we toured the Chapel which was closed the evening before. Then we headed up 89a toward Flagstaff, which is a beautiful twisty 2-lane road that follows Oak Creek canyon. On the way we stopped at a few points of interest, on the north edge of town there is an old trading post with a pile of bleached bones, and a little further North is the Sedona sign, then Madgely Bridge. Then at the top of the canyon just before Flagstaff is Oak Creek Canyon Vista Point where local Indians are selling handmade jewelry.

We rode on to Grand Canyon via I-40 and AZ-64 at Williams. Expect to pay $12 at the park entrance per bike (riding 2-up). We walked the South Rim enjoying views and taking pic's. It is an amazing sight to see, and you cannot appreciate the feeling of just how big it is without seeing it yourself. Also, four hours is just enough time to barely appreciate this attraction, and I would like to have hiked around down inside for a more complete experience.

Day #7 finds us in Chloride visiting my mom, seeing her for the first time in nearly four years - way too long. We rented a Jeep Patriot at Bullhead City airport, and headed toward San Marcos Resort to celebrate my aunt Harris' birthday with CandyMachine folks and Guy, Jerry and Irving - this is also where we stayed. It was so good to see everyone.

We had a great time visiting that evening, I wished that our boys were there.

Staying at the San Marcos Resort was nice, and breakfast at Mama Cat's will spoil you. I, Monique, Jeannie, Harris and Guy spent the day driving around together visiting historical places of interest to our family story. We walked to the end of Oceanside Pier, where I proposed to Monique at what was the Fisherman's restaurant some 17 years ago. We splashed in the surf at Oceanside Beach. We visited my grandparent's house on Ditmar, and the houses Mo and I lived while in CA. We also spent some time shopping, Guy and I at Fry's Electronics and the ladies at various clothing stores. And we visited the place where Mo and I were married next to Vista Palomar Equestrian Club. We finished a wonderful day of reminiscing with dinner at the Elephant Bar.

Mom, Monique and I had breakfast at Mama Cat's with Harris and said good bye, and then met Guy at his church just before service to say goodbye to him before leaving the place I called home for so many years - San Diego. We met my good friend Jerry for lunch in Fontana for a short visit, then continued on to Yermo, a small town in the Mojave Desert where I lived from the age of 12 to 15. Continuing our reminiscing of old places we lived, brought us down our old street where I spotted Mrs. Moquin sitting in front of their home. So we dropped in and had a lot of catching-up to do with Donald especially. It was great to see them and their kids, just as we were so many years ago. Then we continued back to Chloride.

After returning the rental car to Bullhead City, and went into Laughlin for breakfast. Gambled and lost a quarter (that's enough gambling for me). Then we spent the day in and around Chloride. We visited Rand's resting place and the headstone we had yet to see. Then toured around visiting the Mine Shaft (general store), gunfighter's town and museum, and where Mom has her office. Later John took us up to see his gold/silver/copper mine. We also checked on our properties at Mojave Knowles Estates.

Mom made dinner that night, and we had a great visit, but it was not long enough.

Before embarking on the return part of our gallivant, we visited Nell for coffee in the morning, and mailed a few packagess that we couldn't carry on the bike. We headed for Salina UT, stopping at Hoover Dam for over an hour, walking over the dam, then riding over for what would be the last time since the final piece of the new bridge had been placed, and when this bridge is done, the dam will be used for pedestrian traffic only. We ate lunch there at the bridge and took pictures.

We then followed the road through Lake Mead National Recreation Area and further along the Valley of Fire Highway. The Valley of Fire is aptly named being an extremely hot and desolate place. But this particular day would test my motorcycling skills more than any other. They were re-paving the road through a 5-mile section. So in the 110 deg heat, we come upon a huge work crew and after waiting 30 minutes, began following a road grader leveling freshly dumped gravel piles. So I am trying to keep the bike balanced in 8" of loose gravel riding 5 mph 2-up and fully loaded with the grader stopping occasionally to wait for trucks to continue dumping gravel, or talk to their buddies, get drinks and whatever. Meanwhile the bike is an absolute handfull at this slow speed through deep loose gravel and is running at the border of overheating (burning plastic smell) - with no place to pull off. Each time we stopped, the gravel would come over the top of the rims, and my boots would sink into it. This went on for over an hour, and at the end of it I was completely worn out. In hindsight, I don't think there is any other bike, except maybe a GS that I could have pulled that off without dumping it. I've been wanting a GT for a while now, but I don't think it would have made that section without a fall. That hour of riding was by far the most difficult test of riding skill and endurance I have yet encountered.

We continued, catching I-15 just before Mesquite. The interstate crosses over the Northwest corner of Arizona before continuing up into Utah. Our destination for the night was Salina Utah. On the way there, we passed through the Castle Valley.

The bike hadn't sounded right since nearly overheating through the Valley of Fire re-paving episode yesterday, and checking the oil confirmed the need for a little top-off. Quick trip to NAPA solved that. Leaving Salina, the day started very hot in Utah and ended in cold conditions through Vail where the maintains are so steep on both sides of the canyon, they don't get much sun.

We made our way through one of the most amazing land transformations from the mostly flat plains of Utah where there are occasional colored plateaus off in the distance, to the steep canyon slopes and winding roads of Colorado that are so close sometimes you can reach out and touch them as they go by.

Stayed at Super8 converted lodge in Georgetown, was 60deg when we stopped. This part of Colorado and Sedona are two of the most beautiful places to visit.

Georgetown CO was cold and sunny as we left the lodge for the short trip down I-70 to the Mt. Evans Scenic Byway which starts at Idaho Springs. On the way there, you're driving a beautiful scenic road, but get the impression that speeding will likely not be tolerated, and there are several agencies responsible for caretaking these parts. Just past Echo Lake are the Echo Lake Lodge and then the ranger station/park entrance.

We rode past Summit Lake to the top of Mt. Evans which is the highest paved road in the US. This road is narrow with twisty switchbacks along steep un-guarded drop-offs with snow and ice to each side. Mo was scared to the point of crying as we were riding up, but we pressed on higher and higher in windy conditions to the 14,260 ft crest.

On the way up and down, and in and around the Crest House we saw wild mountain goats. At the parking area, there were a couple of park rangers, taking weather reading and answering questions and taking surveys who reported that it was 36 deg with 80 mph wind gusts.

The lack of oxygen in the air becomes evident for those unconditioned, and I noticed it a few times, reminding myself to pace every step. The mountain goat was friendly enough that he was making me uncomfortable, especially when I suddenly realized he was staring me down through a window beside me. To reach the summit marker requires a 1/4 mile hike, which I did. Going back down the mountain is actually more difficult and scary, but since you know what to expect... and there is only one safe way back down.

Having made our decent, we stopped at the Echo Lake Lodge for souvenirs and lunch, then headed back down the Mt. Evans Scenic Byway and on I-70 East for a few miles, then headed North on Central City Parkway, CO-119, Peak to Peak Hwy (CO-72), and CO-7 to Estes Park. This ride on twisty mountainous Colorado roads with amazing views around every bend, and Alpine towns makes for a terrific cycle ride (under pleasant skies).

We found ourselves in Estes Park in time for dinner, and ate there at a Russian place on the main strip. After dinner, we stopped by the Stanley Hotel for a quick pic of this notoriously haunted place where "The Shining" was filmed. Then we took US-34 down the Big Thompson Canyon Rd. to Loveland CO - winner of "most radar and traffic camera laden city in America". They must have spent a billion dollars outfitting their city with 4 cameras and 4 radar guns at every intersection (one set pointed in each direction). If you're running a detector, just turn it off, go the speed limit and enjoy views of the lake as you ride by. Our destination was just a short jaunt up I-25 to Cheyenne WY, where we stayed the night.

If I could go back to any day of riding in my life, it would be this day. It had all the best ingredients: my wife, riding motorcycles, pleasant conditions, twisty roads, adventurous new sights, record-breaking extremes and tests of skill. I don't think I have ever smiled so much in one day.

We left Cheyenne in sunny but chilly conditions. With jacket liners in, we headed down I-80 to I-76 through Nebraska, then down South into Kansas and Eastward on US-36 past rolling high plains. This is a nice road with little towns and lots of cattle ranches giving-way to farm land. Stayed the night in Smith Center KS. After 14 days on the road without a shave, I was beginning to look like burly-man.

Awoke in Smith Center to the sound of hail, lightning, high winds and rain. We slept-in waiting out the storms then continuing through Kansas and tip of Colorado on I-36 to Hanibal MO, where we stayed at a Super8 and swam in their outdoor pool. Not much excitement or pictures.

We awoke, ate the continental breakfast and headed South toward St. Louis, then East on I-64, stopping in Mt. Vernon for lunch and gas. This is the last day of our gallivant, and a bit of sadness continued to grow over these final two days as we rode homeward. As we came within 5 miles of home ('bout seven hours riding), Monique asked if I would take the long way home - she wasn't ready for our trip to be over, and in many ways, neither was I.

In the end, we made it safely, visited family and friends, had a terrific adventure, and spent quality time together in a variety of conditions - all of which were away from the home and reinforcing our relationship in a new and occasionally extreme way.